Official Turbo FAQ with Electrical Guide
06-21-2006, 05:47 AM
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Official Turbo FAQ with Electrical Guide
Mods... if you like, please sticky. This will save a LOT of time for people that consistently ask questions pertaining to this info on the boards.
This thread is the compilation of many of my responses, whether it be PM, the boards, or on AIM. The rest is stuff that I've spent about 4-5 hours typing up to help cover most of the bases. I am doing this as a guide for those who seek more information out there, but don't know where to look or who to ask. Paul and I love doing this stuff, so if you have a question I missed, ask and we'll take care of you.
For the AFR:
All of the engine management systems out there can only tune the fuel curves when you floor it. But when you don't floor it, your ECU is constantly re-learning air/fuel ratios. So regardless of what changes you make on the emanage or any other piggy back system out there, the stock ECU compensates for it and changes it back to right around an air -fuel ratio of 14.7. Air fuel ratios are one of the most important tuning aspects of any engine, followed by ignition timing. Air/Fuel ratio is for every x amount of fuel, there's x amount of air. 12 parts of air, for 1 part of fuel basically
There's a fine line of tuning with air fuel ratios to get the most reliable power out of your car. Tune too rich and you foul your plugs, and loose some unnecessary power. Tune too lean and you're running too hot and risking severe damage to the motor.
When we tune for example... We like sitting around the 11.5 range, going as high as about 12.2. 12.7 is about optimal for a boosted car but for a daily driven tC with 10+ psi it may not be the best option. The 11.5 can help cope with a boost spike, or some really hot days. This will lower the chance of detonation which is usually the result from poor fuel or ignition maps.
Ignition maps adversely affect fuel. If you advance ignition timing, you effectively leaning out your fuel curve to a certain extent because the spark is starting an "x" amount of degrees sooner. Retarding the ignition timing will effectively enrichen the fuel curve because you're starting the spark sequence later.
Ok, so that means you need a new ecu?
We have our WOT tunes fully adjustable...as of this second, you need a stand-alone right now to adjust partial throttle fuel curves. There is no piggy back that allows you to tune your fuel maps unless you floor it. This is fine for lower boost, but with 10+ PSI it’s not recommended. We are in the finishing stages of the first and only application that will work on the Scion tC, both auto and manual, turbo and s/c that will allow you to change your partial throttle fuel curves and still attain your stock ECU! Please PM us with regards to this part, because I’m not turning this thread into a massive plug for us, as much as I’d like to. We will be releasing this EMS soon, both with our turbo kits, and people looking to buy it separately for themselves for their own setup.
What is a stand alone EMS (engine management system)?
A stand-alone is where you replace the ECU with a new one, and input the exact values you want, to tune every part of the car
What is a piggy-back EMS?
A piggy back keeps your stock ECU, and modifies the signals going to the ecu to allow you to adjust the tune...
What is WOT?
Wide Open Throttle
What is BAR?
BAR stands for Barometric pressure. 1 bar is equal to 14.7psi.
What is Knock?
Knock is pinging or detonation. It’s usually a result of too much compression with too high of temperatures. Common failure points are piston rings and/or head gaskets. Both cost a lot of labor to fix. Knock can be avoiding by using high-grade fuel, and tuning accordingly.
PARTS:
Turbo:
A turbo comes in all shapes and sizes. There are major differences between turbos out there. Here are some of them:
AR: The AR is what primarily determines how much lag you can expect with a turbo charger. A larger AR means a larger lag, but with more top-end power. A smaller AR gives you better spool-up but may not produce enough pwer on the top end. A larger AR is the exact opposite. The number that you need depends on your application and the turbo professionals out there know what’s best for you. (This does include myself and Paul!
Trim:
Trim is the size of the wheels on the turbo. There are two wheels. A compressor wheel (intake side), and an exhaust wheel (exhaust side).
Turbo housing:
There are so many different turbo options out there it’s hard to say which is best. There are different flange types out there as well. So when you buy a manifold with a T3 or a T25 flange for example, you need to buy turbos that are flanged the same way, so that things bolt up. Exhaust and compressor housing also affects spool and top-end power, and is very similar to the AR values. A T3/T04B is smaller than a T3/T04E. A 16G is smaller than a 20G. All have different flow characteristics and are efficient in different areas. Once again, a turbo professional can help you decide which is best for you.
Wastegate (WG):
The wastegate is what controls your boost levels that your turbo is running. There are two types of wastegates. Internal wastegates are attached to your turbo and turbo housing itself. Externals are attached to your manifold. Both types of wastegates follow the same princible. They control your boost levels by bypassing exhaust gases past the turbo. This limit’s the energy coming from your motor to a certain amount to what the turbo actually sees. Because your turbo isn’t seeing an increase in energy (exhaust gas) after a certain point, the boost stops going up and is regulated to the desired level. Internal wastegates have an internal flapper that diverts gas within the exhaust housing out to your down pipe. This is a very simple and inexpensive way to control boost. The more expensive and reliable option is an external wastegate. External wastegates take the exhaust gases from your manifold itself and dumps the excess gases outward. You have an option to dump it into the air (open dump) or run a pipe connecting the wastegate to your exhaust. Open dump is loud, not smog legal, and dirty. It does however yield a little bit more power and gives a different sound to the car. For a daily driven tC where ultimate power isn’t a concern, plumbing the wastegate back into the exhaust is still the best way to go. It’s quiet and keeps you out of trouble. Bot wastegates are fed by a vacuum source, whether it be the turbo compressor housing, or the hose that connects your intake manifold to your TB.
Blow-off valve (BOV):
Once again, two types of BOVs. Atmospheric and recirculating. Some BOV’s have the ability to be both, depending on the fitting(s) attached to them. Atmospheric BOVs are much more common. The biggest reason is because everyone loves the loud sound of the whoosh when you shift gears and try to impress people. This may be the best alternative in some applications but not all. A BOV’s purpose is to let out or divert air when boost is made then the throttle body plate closes. All that compressed air is just itching to get into your intake manifold. When the throttle plate slams the door shut, where does all that air go? It heads right back where it came; towards the turbo. You don’t want that! It causes what is called compressor surge and is very bad for your turbo. The turbo gets hotter, it wears out faster,, and it lags when you get back onto boost because now it needs to speed up again. A BOV senses the boost to vacuum transition (by being hooked up into a vacuum line) and opens up. This frees all that extra air, and basically lets it out. Atmospheric BOVs will just let it out into the air, while recirculating BOVs will divert the air back into the intake pipe. Two reasons to divert back into the intake pipe are to limit the sound output, and to allow the MAF sensor to meter the air more accurately. The MAF thinks the air made it to the motor so it tells the ECU to add more fuel. When you vent the air out, the air is “gone” and there’s too much fuel now sitting in the motor. This causes your car to run rich and under higher boost applications will accelerate wear on spark plugs, fouling them out. It also wastes gas.
MAP vs. MAF:
A MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor reads how much pressure is actually inside the intake manifold. It does not take into account the CFM or the air coming in, only the pressure it comes in at. Colder air is denser, so most MAP based systems use an IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor. This helps the ECU better figure the amount of fuel needed. MAPs can use atmospheric BOVs with no side effects. MAF (Mass Air Flow) systems meter how much air is actually flowing through the intake pipe. This has been known to be more accurate way to tune, but for turbo cars it makes things more tricky. A MAF sensor actually sits in the way of the air being sucked into the motor. In higher HP cars this could actually cut back on some of the performance. On most cars out there, the difference is negligible and most companies prefer this option. It’s more accurate, and allows for better tuned OEM cars. A MAF sensor simply reads how much air flow is coming into the engine and tells the ECU how much fuel to send accordingly. Atmospheric BOVs make this system somewhat unstable, and can/will result in richer than normal conditions under the boost to vacuum transition.
Manifolds:
There are many types of manifolds out there, with different materials. I won’t get into too much detail but here’s something to work with. Materials and weld quality are what determine how reliable your turbo would be. Cast iron manifolds aren’t the prettiest but they are damn reliable. With no welds and a high heat tolerance, reliability is the last concern. They do cost a lot more to originally fabricate, because you need a mold to do it. Most shops weld log manifolds. They actually do look like a log, and are finished with a flange of your/their choice. They are simple and cost effective. Some companies weld better than others and can be more reliable. Crappy welds leads to cracking and you spending more money down the road so spend wisely now. Equal runner manifolds usually perform the best, but can be the most problematic. They cost a LOT to develop (properly at least) and need extra TLC in the welding process to make sure they hold up to expectations. The end result can be the best, but at over double the cost in most situations, is it really worth it for you?
Flywheel:
Flywheels can help and hurt you at the same time. Sure it’s more responsive, but do you road race daily? Most of you tC guys out there drive your car to and from work/school/friends in a pretty consistent basis. Flywheels have inertia. Inertia simply means that once it’s in motion, it wants to stay in motion. When it’s at rest, it wants to stay at rest. More inertia (heavier flywheels) are great in traffic. The first gear starts have more initial torque and will help get you going off the line, whether it be in traffic, at a light, or at the drag way. Once you’re in gear, you want less inertia. This is because now your engine is fighting to rev higher. The less weight it has to move, the better the acceleration, hence the quicker response. If you spend most of your time in traffic or daily driving, a stock flywheel is fine, maybe a slightly lighter one. If you road race a lot, and spend most of your time in gear and need the extra response, a lighter one is better. It’s your choice, and don’t buy one just to say you have one. You can spend 300 somewhere else that will greatly increase performance in a different way.
Clutch:
Get something that grabs and holds long-time!!! I wish it were that easy. Pedal pressure, engagement points, engagement harshness, and TQ capacity all play a major role in deciding which is the right clutch for you. We use the ACT street clutch on our Dezod tC. It holds 341WTQ and has a very smooth engagement. Pedal stiffness is increases so expect to have a stronger leg. This could lead to leg strain in traffic, but if you need the clamping force then get it. If you’re not making a lot more power than stock, the TRD clutch is a great upgrade. For most of those turbo owners out there, an ACT street clutch is one of the best options out there. The ACT race clutch is puck instead of a disc. Discs tend to be smoother on engagement but pucks have the ability to hold much more power. Do not buy a puck-based clutch unless you KNOW you’ll soon be making upwards of 400+ HP.
Intercooler (IC):
Larger the better? Wrong to a certain extent. Some intercoolers are more efficient than others, and the design plays a huge role in this. If you’re only using 8psi, you don’t need a massive 24row IC sitting on the front of your car. Yeah it looks cool, but it weighs more, and you just lost your metal bumper that’s there to save your car and life in case of a frontal accident. Core and fin, and bar and plate are two different IC designs. Bar and plate is more efficient at cooling so a smaller IC can be used without sacrificing power. The one we use keeps the OEM metal bumper and supports up to 550whp.
Pipes:
Hot Side: Pipe connecting the turbo to the intercooler.
Cold Side: Pipe connecting the intercooler to the throttle body (TB).
Fuel injectors:
Not getting into too much detail here. We know the RC injectors fit, and that 550CC injectors are more than enough to support about 400whp. Go too big and you could have an idling issue, go too small and you may not have enough fuel support for the power you’re looking to make. 550s are a great injector for 230-400whp.
Exhaust:
I want a 3”! NO my son. 3” exhausts are only beneficial at a certain point. On most cases for what most people on these boards do or have, a 2.5” exhaust is perfect. If done correctly with mandrel bends and a good muffler, a 2.5” will be the best performing exhaust for a mildly boosted tC. It keeps exhaust temps hot enough to help them scavenge, which allows for faster turbo spoolup, and more horsepower. Too big of a pipe will cool the exhaust gases down. This creates turbulence and back pressure. The result is actually a loss of power. When you make enough boost, power, and heat, then you can consider a 3”, but until then, stay smart. Save your money and go with a 2.5”. Keep in mind a 2.5” weighs less and the 2HP loss from a 3” could actually perform better because now there’s less weight to push. This will allow for better handling and braking as well. It’s a small amount but every bit helps.
TUNING:
I touched on this a little bit before. Tuning is key. It affects your performance and reliability. This part is where the magic happens so I’m going to keep this from being to generalized or specific because different systems respond differently. The first and most common thing to tune is your air to fuel ratio. This helps get the most and safest power out of your car (if done correctly). Tune too rich and you will bog, foul plugs, and lose power. Tune too lean and your car may lot last too long, as you are taking the temps up higher and risking the chance of knock/detonation. Ignition timing is the next step in tuning and can be the final bit needed to give you the extra safety you need for the longevity of the motor. Professional tuners should be doing tuning, so I’m cutting this part short. Paul and I can answer more specific questions if you must.
RELIABILITY:
Run too much boost on a daily driver and you’re engine will fail prematurely. Regardless of how perfect your tune is, higher boost always means less life in the motor. Boost is hotter, and boost makes for more pressure in your combustion chambers. If you expect to get 200k out of an aftermarket boosted car, you’re in the wrong scene. Mild boost (6psi or so) can actually last quite a long time. If you tune conservatively, adjust both WOT and partial throttle tunes, and stay on top of your oil changes, I wouldn’t be concerned with the motor at all. At slightly higher boost levels, proper tuning and maintenance is key. I’ve been driving my tC in all different temperatures for 8 months now with a turbo. The lowest boost the car has seen is 8.7psi and I’ve raced this car a lot. My motor’s running great and I know it will keep going at the rate it’s at. I change my Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic oil every 2500-3000 miles, along with the oil filter. I’m running Denso IK22s for my spark plugs which run a little bit colder than the stock ones. Keep checking your oil levels, and don’t beat on your car unless it’s necessary. This combination can yield a long lasting, high powered Scion.
Now that you're eyes are killing you, I hoped you learned something. Boost is a fun thing to get into but you need to know what you're getting into. This is what Paul and I thrive on. If you have questions, comments, concerns, then post up. We'll take care of it.
*Appended* Electronics Guide:
The gizmo guide! I’d like to explain why you get what you get, which kind to get, and how necessary it is. I can answer any more questions about the product I’ve spoke about, or even ones I happened to have “left out”.
TOPIC 1 – GAUGES:
Why do I want gauges? If you’re a guy, you always want to know what a girl is thinking (if you’re a girl, vice versa). Wouldn’t it be cool if you could have a gauge that told you if a girl was ticked off or totally in love with you? Think of that same theory on your motor. When you start modifying your car, or push it to it’s limits, you need to know what’s going on. There are MANY various gauges out there that will inform you of what’s going on with your motor, depending on what kind of mods you’ve done. Before I go into specifics, let’s talk about a differentiator in price, ease of installation, and accuracy. There are two major types of gauges out there, electrical and mechanical. It should be obvious which one is better. In case you don’t know, yes it’s electrical! They are far more accurate, easier to install, and can offer more features such as data logging or linking (connecting 2 or more gauges together to work with each other). The only downside is the cost. Typical electronic boost gauges will go for around $200 where most mechanical gauges cost about $50-60. It’s better to have a cheap gauge than to not have one at all. So if you’re putting a turbo or S/C on your car, you want to have a gauge, regardless of the type.
Boost gauges:
I started talking about this earlier but I will not go into much more detail. Boost gauges have some differences. Some read boost only. Some will read boost and vacuum. They will then be metered in either PSI or BAR. PSI stands for pounds per square inch. This is the more common way in the states to measure boost, because most people know what the limits are. BAR however is more common everywhere else, and on many high HP cars in the US. BAR stands for barometric pressure. 1 BAR equals about 14.7psi. On low boost cars, it’s not as common to use a boost gauge. Most BAR gauges read up to 2.5 BAR which is about 36.75PSI. If you’re only running 8PSI, you won’t ever hit one and this may be somewhat hard to distinguish while you are driving. My preference for low boost tCs is a PSI Boost/VAC gauge that reads up to 15PSI. You will use the bulk of the gauge and it may help you see the actual number you’re running more easily. I personally use a Stewart Warner gauge, but it’s not 100% accurate and I quickly found that out after I installed my Apexi RSM. Either way, a boost gauge should be the first on your list if you running any type of forced induction on your car. It’s a great reference to have, and it may keep you from blowing your motor one day.
A/F Gauges:
It’s hard to say which is the second most important gauge, but I still feel that the Air/Fuel gauge is a must. There are two main types of A/F gauges out there. One is narrow band, one is a wide band. What’s the “band” you ask? The band is actually in reference to voltage. A narrow band operates with a sensor in your exhaust, and it sends out a signal varying from 0-1 Volt. Narrowbands do not come with an o2 sensor because the rely on your stock narrow band (your primary o2 sensor) to give the signal. Some cars aren’t fortune enough to have a narrow band, so we use a wide band. A wide band is actually MUCH better to have than a narrow. Widebands, though more expensive, are MUCH more accurate in A/F readings. What makes them wide is the 0-5 volt reading the sensor samples with. Our OEM wideband is a single channel wideband, instead of the normal dual channel. This means that aftermarket wideband gauges can not use the OEM sensor. The end result is all of us needing to buy a full stand-alone wideband kit such as an AEM or Innovate. Both are great gauges. NGK makes a nice unit as well. I have the AEM gauge and love it. It comes with interchangeable rings and plates to match most of anyone’s gauge theme. You want this gauge to know what your air fuel ratio is reading. Run too lean and you may blow your motor. Run too rich, and you may be loosing unnecessary amounts of power, and waste unnecessary amounts of gas. The stock fuel trim for our tC is 14.7. This is entirely too lean for any FI setup, and results in super high EGTS (being discussed next). Optimal power for a turbo setup is a 12.7 AFR. Our cars weren’t meant for that kind of stress however, so a more safe tune of 11.5-12 is better. 10 is rich, 15 is lean. Now you know your numbers.
EGT – Exhaust Gas Temperature
EGT gauges are another great gauge to help with safe tuning and driving. Your engine runs HOT! It’s reported that we hit over 1600 degrees F on the highway. Consider that if you buy a gauge that maxes out at 1600. You may not get the entire read you need to know exactly what your motor is doing. 1600 isn’t great, but it’s been seen on more cars lately. STi’s run fairly high EGTs as well. Theoretically, you want low EGTs. Go too low, it’s a sign that you may not be generating enough power. Too high of EGTs could show signs of possible engine failure, or unnecessary wear on the motor. Typically when you pull ignition timing, you end up creating higher EGTs.
Oil Pressure
Though not the top 3 in my choice, it’s still one to consider. I STRONGLY suggest that you only run an electric oil pressure gauge. Do you really want a hot oil line running inside your seating compartment? The idea of an oil pressure gauge is monitor oil activity in your motor. If you break, damage, or drop an oil line or filter, you will lose significant amounts of oil pressure. Keeping your eye on this gauge on a race track may save you a motor in case an event like this was to happen. It will give you time to shut down the engine before it seizes, saving you a lot of money and downtime.
Oil Temperature
Running some serious amounts of boost? Have an oil cooler? What grade oil are you using? If you push your stock oil cooled system too hard on a turbo’d car, you may break down the viscosity of your oil to a point where it’s just not doing it’s job anymore. Having a gauge like this will again tell you to let off and diagnose the problem before it leads to something worse (turbo or engine failure). Many turbos only use oil as their source of cooling. Run over 15psi daily, and our stock cooler may not be enough. The oil will not lubricate things properly, causing an even greater hike in temperature, and your turbo seals will fail. Lets also not forget the piston rings failing as well!
Fuel Pressure – FP
Running a fuel pressure regulator? How about an inline pump? Fuel is combustible (obviously!). If you have a severed fuel line you may be leaking right into your hot engine bay! Safety is a big concern on the race track so if you’ve heavily modified your fuel system you may want to consider keeping your eye on fuel pressure so you know everything’s going where it’s supposed to.
There are many other gauges out there such as water temp, tranny temp, voltage, nitrous, etc. With proper research, you will easily find which gauges are necessary for your application. Gauges are a must and will help protect your investment.
TOPIC 2 – Electronic Meters:
There are so many to choose from out there it’s hard to begin. Electronic meters can serve many uses. The main benefit from most electronic meters is the ability to monitor and display more than one bit of information about the car at one time. It also takes up less space. The units do cost more, but they are very accurate, may be more cost effective, and they look cool!
Many of the following are copied from the information provided to us at Dezod in an effort to save time for this right up. This information is property of Dezod and is not to be disclosed without our authorization.
APEXI RSM-GP: Like the original, the new Rev/Speed Meter GP is a complete multi function measuring device designed to measure and monitor data such as vehicle speed, engine RPM, and elapsed times. However, the strength of the new unit lies in its differences. Probably the most obvious being its completely redesigned look. This new aesthetically pleasing model was crafted to match the likes of other highly popular A'PEX electronics such as the VAFC (VTEC Controller) and the AVCR (Boost Controller). The new screen utilizes the easy to read VFD (Vacuum Fluorescent Display) with built in light sensor used in many of A'PEX's line up. The new unit also delivers a host of new functions. Standard features include: Engine RPM, Vehicle Speed, Travel Distance, and Battery Voltage (All which can be displayed in real time graph mode, numerical mode, or analogue mode; 1-4 channels at a time.), Peak Hold, Replay (With 60 second playback.), Speed Limiter Cut, 0-100m/200m/400m times with trap speed, 0-100km/h/200km/h/300km/h times, Mid Range Acceleration (The user can preset any range of speed to measure.), Stop Watch functions, Best Time Memory, RPM Warning, Speed Warning, RPM and Speed Outputs (For external devices requiring an RPM or speed signal.), Tire Size Correction (For acceleration and timing accuracy.), and Vehicle weight input. One of the most exiting of the new features is the option to utilize the revolutionary A'PEX G-Sensor (Sold separately.). The G Sensor allows the unit to measure G forces in 4-way front/rear/left/right directions. This data can be plotted in a graph display to map acceleration characteristics and lateral G's on the race track, or used in an array of new features including: Highly accurate 100m/200m/400m times with trap speed and wheel-spin correction, Horse Power Calculation, and Loss Power Calculation. By taking advantage of the optional G Sensor, the user can produce extremely accurate power measurements Usually, when measuring 0-400m times through the speed sensor signal alone, the meter will end measurement too early (shorter distance) due to wheel-spin. Using the G Sensor modifies the speed sensor signal, compensating for wheel-spin and producing impeccably accurate acceleration times.
Greddy E-01 and Emanage controller:
GReddy's new super Multi-Display Controller is the E-01. Designed as data display / logger and e-manage programmer, the e-01 can provide 3channel data-logging and access to all the programming features provided with the latest e-manage support tool. The large LCD screen, with green elecro-illuminesant backlighting is easy to see. The data display can view 3 different data channels simultaneously inputted by the e-manage. The data can be logged up for 3hours on a SD card while also giving warning set points, and peak & hold values. (Some features require optional harness to be access)
Greddy Profec E-01 (Emanage controller with boost sensor)
GReddy's new super multi-tasker is the PRofec e-01. Designed as a combination: boost-controller, data display / logger and e-manage programmer, the e-01 can provide superior boost response, increased boost, warning meter functions, 3channel data-logging, and access to all the programming features provided with the latest e-manage support tool. Even when used as just a boost controller the e-01 has features to smooth out the boost curve. With both an Auto and Manual setting for both external and actuator style wastegates, the new PRofec can alter its new compact, high capacity solenoid valve via various RPM ranges if need be. The large LCD screen, with green elecro-illuminesant backlighting is easy to see. Other standard features includes two preset boost levels, a timed over-take boost and compatibility with our Remote Switching System. The data display can view 3 different data channels simultaneously; like Boost, RPM, or any other channel inputted by the emanage. The data can be logged up for 3hours on a SD card while also giving warning set points, and peak & hold values. (Some features require optional harness to be access)
Greddy Intelligent Informeter: Read Up to 25 pieces of information:
Communicate with the factory ECU to red up to Channels. Like: Speedometer, RPM, Water Temp, Ignition Timing, Injector Rate, Intake Air Temperature., Fuel Temp., Air Flow Voltage, Intake Manifold Press., O2 Sensor Voltage, A/F, Battery Voltage, Throttle Position. WGV, ATF Temp., EGR Temp., Gear Position, 4WD ratio, Exhaust Temp.. Simple Plug & Play Installation: Just Plug-Iin the appropriate cable into your vehicle's Diagnostic port, under the dash (ISO 14230 or old Nissan fault diagnosis connector) And for vehicles which use OBD2 ports, a cigarette lighter plug powers up the unit. Easy to see Color LCD screen: By adopting a color screen, monitoring numerous values is easy. Key warning point values, are highlighted to call attention to them. Monitor, Record adn Playback: Not only does it monitor, but it Records and Playbacks Info. Data log up to 6 pieces of information simultanelusly. Recording resolution can be selected from fine to smoothing. 180 Degree Flexibility: With a quick selection, you can flip screen 180 degrees. allowing more mounting flexibility. You can slso choose between Japanese and English languages.
Blitz R-Vit Racing Vehicle Information Technology Type-1 Universal:
The R-VIT (Racing Vehicle Information Technology) is a state of the art monitoring system that can read and display up to 20 different types of Real Time information provided by the factory ECU. The R-VIT is a fully digital monitoring device with 5 different types of digital displaying capabilities (Needle Meter, Ellipse Meter, Bar Graph, Triple Monitor, and Six-fold Monitor). R-VIT features peak-hold recording, playback features, that can record and replay up to 99 seconds. Limits can be set in flash and audible warnings to notify the driver of different engine variables, thus reducing the chances of damaging the motor. (R-VIT is featured in a 1/2 Din size). R-VIT and SBC i-D INFARED communication: The R-VIT can communicate with the SBC i-D boost controller via INFARED to operate the Speed Map function, providing an accurate speed based boost. **The R-VIT can be used on most Japanese Imports 1996 and newer with the on-board diagnosis port. For Nissans 1989-1999, use R-VIT type II. For Toyotas manufactured before 1996, BLITZ will be releasing an R-VIT type III in the future
Autometer D-PIC: Clean Installation. No more devices hanging from your windshield, or cords dangling to your auxiliary power port. Built in standard 2 1/16” gauge size – D-PIC’s compact size allows it to be easily mounted in a Pod, Pillar, Cup or custom Dash location. Available in two styles to match either your Auto Meter Ultra-Lite or Cobalt gauges for a clean appearance and perfect complement to your existing instrumentation. Real–Time G's: Choose either forward (front and back) or lateral (left and right) axis instantaneous acceleration G Forces on the LED array and digital display. LED array graph will show magnitude of the G force, while the instantaneous value will be display in the numeric digital display
Peak memory feature allows you to recall the highest G Forces achieved in both axes (all four directions) during Real-Time operation. 0 to 60mph Acceleration Time: Measure your vehicle’s 0-60mph acceleration time with precision. Capture Peak Acceleration G Forces: Compare your latest efforts to a saved best, see the difference between the two, and improve your driving skills while monitoring how performance upgrades affect your vehicle’s performance. 60 to 0mph Braking Distance: Precisely calculate the distance your vehicle needs to come to a stop from 60mph. Capture Peak Deceleration G Forces
Compare your latest efforts to a saved best, see the difference between the two, and improve your driving skills while monitoring how performance upgrades affect your vehicle’s performance. ¼ Mile ET and Speed: Test your vehicle’s capabilities and times for quarter mile acceleration, and see both your ¼ mile speed in MPH and elapsed time in seconds. Capture Peak Acceleration G Forces: Compare your latest efforts to a saved best, see the difference between the two, and improve your driving skills while monitoring how performance upgrades affect your vehicle’s performance.
Reaction Time: Practice and record your reaction time in ¼ mile acceleration mode
Horsepower Mode: Calculate peak horsepower to the wheels (whp) of your vehicle in horsepower mode. Compare your latest peak to a saved best, see the difference between the two, and monitor how performance upgrades affect your vehicle’s performance.
*Note – info on Automer D-PIP sourced from www.autometer.com.
G-Tech Pro SS and RR displays – Info taken from www.gtechpro.com
SS and RRs are both plug and play systems. The SS will display HP, TQ, 60’ time, 1/8th and ¼ mile time, 0-60, 0-100-0, RPM and shift lights, handling Gs, and will record up to 30 runs. The RR has the same features but adds Road Race and Auto-X data logging, Performance Analysis software, multi-car support, 2 hr data acquisition, PC download cable, AC adapter, and permanent mount.
Ok so you’ve read all that? Most of these monitors do the same thing. It’s slight differences in cosmetics and a few features here and there that set them apart. I run primarily Apexi electronics and I love them. They’re rock solid, small, and get the job done.
TOPIC 3 – MISC
There are LOTS of little tid-bit goodies out there than offer some unique upgrades. My favorite to date is the Spearco water injection system. It cools your car, it’s compact, it’s reliable, and makes your car last longer! What more could you want? The unit comes with everything you need except the water tank but it can be purchased separately. For really hot weather or prolonged abuse, this is a cool little mod to have.
Nitrous Express N-tercooler system:
Nitrous for turbos! No not the nitrous that slams you in your seat from the push of a button. No not the nitrous that can be catastrophic for your motor if you put too high of a shot in at once. It’s the same exact type of nitrous, but in a “topical version”. Not one ounce of nitrous will enter the engine. It is simply used as an ultimate cooling device for intercoolers. The best cars to use this are the STis/WRXs with top mounted intercoolers. Push a button and you can have nitrous blasted right onto your intercooler! This not only looks and sounds cool, it’s actually functional. Eliminate heat soak and get that extra edge at the track that could give you the win!
O2 Simulators:
Though I’ve NEVER seen one work on a tC, there are others out there that work wonders on other cars. EVOs and STis with cat-delete pipes can use this little gadget to eliminate a CEL that is only generated by lack of catalyst efficiency. It’s a cool little gadget that keeps the pesky CEL light available for more important matters. The o2 sim works by “fooling” your ECU. It modifies your secondary o2 readings to show your ECU that it still has a Catalytic converter, even though it doesn’t.
Greddy Multi-Switch system.
This little device uses connected sensors to control other devices by using pre-selecting switch points. It can use info from speed, RPM, boost, or any other analog signal. Use this to control fans, nitrous switches, fuel pumps, etc. It’s basically a clean way of using automated control, instead of having switches all over the place.
Fuel Pumps:
Need more fuel? How about just better atomized fuel? Cars running higher pressured fuel systems benefit from more even firing throughout all the cylinders, and better atomization of the fuel particles that mix with the intake charge. The end result is maximum performance with a lesser chance of detonation. Your two main options are in-tank and in-line. In-take pumps are full replacement and are harder to install. In-line pumps utilize your stock fuel pump and are easier to install. In-lines are only good to a certain extent of power. An in-tank is a better option if you plan on driving a track car, or something with high levels of boost. Walbro, Vortec, MSD, BBK, Blitz, HKS, etc all make fuel pumps for various car applications, including universal.
Magnetic Fuel Conditioner:
Although it’s not electronic, it’s still a gadget. This system spreads fuel particles apart using magnetism. The end result is better burn efficiency. Better efficiency means more power and more throttle response. Inazma HG is one of the products that does this.
TOPIC 4 – COMPUTER MANAGEMENT
Our favorite and most complex part! Let’s talk about how intelligent computers can alter every aspect of your car’s performance. The only limit is your budget here.
Sub-topic – Fuel and EMS systems (stand-alone and piggy back)
There are two types of EMS systems out there. The Stand-alone replaces your stock ECU with an aftermarket one, while a piggy-back utilizes your original. Piggy backs are less expensive, easier to setup, cost less, but are more limited. Full stand-alones require a professional tuner, much more money and patience, and the know-how of which to get. The stand-alone has much greater potential if you know what you’re doing.
Piggy-backs:
GReddy Emanage Blue:One of the most common piggy back computers on the market today. It can control fuel and ignition, provided you buy all the harnesses for it. It works by modifying the MAF or MAP signal that the ECU sees. This is a nice simple way to tune things. For ignition, it simply intercepts the original ignition signal and delays or advances it where it’s told to do so. Even on MAF based cars, you can still tune by MAP if you purchase the Greddy Pressure sensor. This sensor is rated for about 45psi so I don’t think you’d ever need to worry about upgrading that unit. Use the pressure sensor if you’re running any type of forced induction. This makes boost transition much smoother, and allows you to modify the boost level without having to re-tune it every time. To tune the system, you can use an E-01, Profec E-01, or a Laptop PC if you purchase the support tool software. I’d use the support tool/laptop option because you can adjust every parameter of the unit with ease. The only downside to the Greddy EMS is the way it controls your engine. This may seem as a major flaw, but for mild boost this is still a great unit for the money. The system ONLY modifies MAF or MAP signals. The new cars are smart out there. Our tC is one of them. Our ECU always reads off of the primary o2 sensor to determine the AF values, in which it adjusts as necessary. That being said, the Emanage has no control over partial throttle tuning! The ECU simply overrides the signal and brings it back to the stock tune. You do have full control over WOT, which is where you make your peak boost/stress anyway. This is a good unit for the money, but still not the best option for our cars. This is why we’re developing our own EMS.
This thread is the compilation of many of my responses, whether it be PM, the boards, or on AIM. The rest is stuff that I've spent about 4-5 hours typing up to help cover most of the bases. I am doing this as a guide for those who seek more information out there, but don't know where to look or who to ask. Paul and I love doing this stuff, so if you have a question I missed, ask and we'll take care of you.
For the AFR:
All of the engine management systems out there can only tune the fuel curves when you floor it. But when you don't floor it, your ECU is constantly re-learning air/fuel ratios. So regardless of what changes you make on the emanage or any other piggy back system out there, the stock ECU compensates for it and changes it back to right around an air -fuel ratio of 14.7. Air fuel ratios are one of the most important tuning aspects of any engine, followed by ignition timing. Air/Fuel ratio is for every x amount of fuel, there's x amount of air. 12 parts of air, for 1 part of fuel basically
There's a fine line of tuning with air fuel ratios to get the most reliable power out of your car. Tune too rich and you foul your plugs, and loose some unnecessary power. Tune too lean and you're running too hot and risking severe damage to the motor.
When we tune for example... We like sitting around the 11.5 range, going as high as about 12.2. 12.7 is about optimal for a boosted car but for a daily driven tC with 10+ psi it may not be the best option. The 11.5 can help cope with a boost spike, or some really hot days. This will lower the chance of detonation which is usually the result from poor fuel or ignition maps.
Ignition maps adversely affect fuel. If you advance ignition timing, you effectively leaning out your fuel curve to a certain extent because the spark is starting an "x" amount of degrees sooner. Retarding the ignition timing will effectively enrichen the fuel curve because you're starting the spark sequence later.
Ok, so that means you need a new ecu?
We have our WOT tunes fully adjustable...as of this second, you need a stand-alone right now to adjust partial throttle fuel curves. There is no piggy back that allows you to tune your fuel maps unless you floor it. This is fine for lower boost, but with 10+ PSI it’s not recommended. We are in the finishing stages of the first and only application that will work on the Scion tC, both auto and manual, turbo and s/c that will allow you to change your partial throttle fuel curves and still attain your stock ECU! Please PM us with regards to this part, because I’m not turning this thread into a massive plug for us, as much as I’d like to. We will be releasing this EMS soon, both with our turbo kits, and people looking to buy it separately for themselves for their own setup.
What is a stand alone EMS (engine management system)?
A stand-alone is where you replace the ECU with a new one, and input the exact values you want, to tune every part of the car
What is a piggy-back EMS?
A piggy back keeps your stock ECU, and modifies the signals going to the ecu to allow you to adjust the tune...
What is WOT?
Wide Open Throttle
What is BAR?
BAR stands for Barometric pressure. 1 bar is equal to 14.7psi.
What is Knock?
Knock is pinging or detonation. It’s usually a result of too much compression with too high of temperatures. Common failure points are piston rings and/or head gaskets. Both cost a lot of labor to fix. Knock can be avoiding by using high-grade fuel, and tuning accordingly.
PARTS:
Turbo:
A turbo comes in all shapes and sizes. There are major differences between turbos out there. Here are some of them:
AR: The AR is what primarily determines how much lag you can expect with a turbo charger. A larger AR means a larger lag, but with more top-end power. A smaller AR gives you better spool-up but may not produce enough pwer on the top end. A larger AR is the exact opposite. The number that you need depends on your application and the turbo professionals out there know what’s best for you. (This does include myself and Paul!
Trim:
Trim is the size of the wheels on the turbo. There are two wheels. A compressor wheel (intake side), and an exhaust wheel (exhaust side).
Turbo housing:
There are so many different turbo options out there it’s hard to say which is best. There are different flange types out there as well. So when you buy a manifold with a T3 or a T25 flange for example, you need to buy turbos that are flanged the same way, so that things bolt up. Exhaust and compressor housing also affects spool and top-end power, and is very similar to the AR values. A T3/T04B is smaller than a T3/T04E. A 16G is smaller than a 20G. All have different flow characteristics and are efficient in different areas. Once again, a turbo professional can help you decide which is best for you.
Wastegate (WG):
The wastegate is what controls your boost levels that your turbo is running. There are two types of wastegates. Internal wastegates are attached to your turbo and turbo housing itself. Externals are attached to your manifold. Both types of wastegates follow the same princible. They control your boost levels by bypassing exhaust gases past the turbo. This limit’s the energy coming from your motor to a certain amount to what the turbo actually sees. Because your turbo isn’t seeing an increase in energy (exhaust gas) after a certain point, the boost stops going up and is regulated to the desired level. Internal wastegates have an internal flapper that diverts gas within the exhaust housing out to your down pipe. This is a very simple and inexpensive way to control boost. The more expensive and reliable option is an external wastegate. External wastegates take the exhaust gases from your manifold itself and dumps the excess gases outward. You have an option to dump it into the air (open dump) or run a pipe connecting the wastegate to your exhaust. Open dump is loud, not smog legal, and dirty. It does however yield a little bit more power and gives a different sound to the car. For a daily driven tC where ultimate power isn’t a concern, plumbing the wastegate back into the exhaust is still the best way to go. It’s quiet and keeps you out of trouble. Bot wastegates are fed by a vacuum source, whether it be the turbo compressor housing, or the hose that connects your intake manifold to your TB.
Blow-off valve (BOV):
Once again, two types of BOVs. Atmospheric and recirculating. Some BOV’s have the ability to be both, depending on the fitting(s) attached to them. Atmospheric BOVs are much more common. The biggest reason is because everyone loves the loud sound of the whoosh when you shift gears and try to impress people. This may be the best alternative in some applications but not all. A BOV’s purpose is to let out or divert air when boost is made then the throttle body plate closes. All that compressed air is just itching to get into your intake manifold. When the throttle plate slams the door shut, where does all that air go? It heads right back where it came; towards the turbo. You don’t want that! It causes what is called compressor surge and is very bad for your turbo. The turbo gets hotter, it wears out faster,, and it lags when you get back onto boost because now it needs to speed up again. A BOV senses the boost to vacuum transition (by being hooked up into a vacuum line) and opens up. This frees all that extra air, and basically lets it out. Atmospheric BOVs will just let it out into the air, while recirculating BOVs will divert the air back into the intake pipe. Two reasons to divert back into the intake pipe are to limit the sound output, and to allow the MAF sensor to meter the air more accurately. The MAF thinks the air made it to the motor so it tells the ECU to add more fuel. When you vent the air out, the air is “gone” and there’s too much fuel now sitting in the motor. This causes your car to run rich and under higher boost applications will accelerate wear on spark plugs, fouling them out. It also wastes gas.
MAP vs. MAF:
A MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor reads how much pressure is actually inside the intake manifold. It does not take into account the CFM or the air coming in, only the pressure it comes in at. Colder air is denser, so most MAP based systems use an IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor. This helps the ECU better figure the amount of fuel needed. MAPs can use atmospheric BOVs with no side effects. MAF (Mass Air Flow) systems meter how much air is actually flowing through the intake pipe. This has been known to be more accurate way to tune, but for turbo cars it makes things more tricky. A MAF sensor actually sits in the way of the air being sucked into the motor. In higher HP cars this could actually cut back on some of the performance. On most cars out there, the difference is negligible and most companies prefer this option. It’s more accurate, and allows for better tuned OEM cars. A MAF sensor simply reads how much air flow is coming into the engine and tells the ECU how much fuel to send accordingly. Atmospheric BOVs make this system somewhat unstable, and can/will result in richer than normal conditions under the boost to vacuum transition.
Manifolds:
There are many types of manifolds out there, with different materials. I won’t get into too much detail but here’s something to work with. Materials and weld quality are what determine how reliable your turbo would be. Cast iron manifolds aren’t the prettiest but they are damn reliable. With no welds and a high heat tolerance, reliability is the last concern. They do cost a lot more to originally fabricate, because you need a mold to do it. Most shops weld log manifolds. They actually do look like a log, and are finished with a flange of your/their choice. They are simple and cost effective. Some companies weld better than others and can be more reliable. Crappy welds leads to cracking and you spending more money down the road so spend wisely now. Equal runner manifolds usually perform the best, but can be the most problematic. They cost a LOT to develop (properly at least) and need extra TLC in the welding process to make sure they hold up to expectations. The end result can be the best, but at over double the cost in most situations, is it really worth it for you?
Flywheel:
Flywheels can help and hurt you at the same time. Sure it’s more responsive, but do you road race daily? Most of you tC guys out there drive your car to and from work/school/friends in a pretty consistent basis. Flywheels have inertia. Inertia simply means that once it’s in motion, it wants to stay in motion. When it’s at rest, it wants to stay at rest. More inertia (heavier flywheels) are great in traffic. The first gear starts have more initial torque and will help get you going off the line, whether it be in traffic, at a light, or at the drag way. Once you’re in gear, you want less inertia. This is because now your engine is fighting to rev higher. The less weight it has to move, the better the acceleration, hence the quicker response. If you spend most of your time in traffic or daily driving, a stock flywheel is fine, maybe a slightly lighter one. If you road race a lot, and spend most of your time in gear and need the extra response, a lighter one is better. It’s your choice, and don’t buy one just to say you have one. You can spend 300 somewhere else that will greatly increase performance in a different way.
Clutch:
Get something that grabs and holds long-time!!! I wish it were that easy. Pedal pressure, engagement points, engagement harshness, and TQ capacity all play a major role in deciding which is the right clutch for you. We use the ACT street clutch on our Dezod tC. It holds 341WTQ and has a very smooth engagement. Pedal stiffness is increases so expect to have a stronger leg. This could lead to leg strain in traffic, but if you need the clamping force then get it. If you’re not making a lot more power than stock, the TRD clutch is a great upgrade. For most of those turbo owners out there, an ACT street clutch is one of the best options out there. The ACT race clutch is puck instead of a disc. Discs tend to be smoother on engagement but pucks have the ability to hold much more power. Do not buy a puck-based clutch unless you KNOW you’ll soon be making upwards of 400+ HP.
Intercooler (IC):
Larger the better? Wrong to a certain extent. Some intercoolers are more efficient than others, and the design plays a huge role in this. If you’re only using 8psi, you don’t need a massive 24row IC sitting on the front of your car. Yeah it looks cool, but it weighs more, and you just lost your metal bumper that’s there to save your car and life in case of a frontal accident. Core and fin, and bar and plate are two different IC designs. Bar and plate is more efficient at cooling so a smaller IC can be used without sacrificing power. The one we use keeps the OEM metal bumper and supports up to 550whp.
Pipes:
Hot Side: Pipe connecting the turbo to the intercooler.
Cold Side: Pipe connecting the intercooler to the throttle body (TB).
Fuel injectors:
Not getting into too much detail here. We know the RC injectors fit, and that 550CC injectors are more than enough to support about 400whp. Go too big and you could have an idling issue, go too small and you may not have enough fuel support for the power you’re looking to make. 550s are a great injector for 230-400whp.
Exhaust:
I want a 3”! NO my son. 3” exhausts are only beneficial at a certain point. On most cases for what most people on these boards do or have, a 2.5” exhaust is perfect. If done correctly with mandrel bends and a good muffler, a 2.5” will be the best performing exhaust for a mildly boosted tC. It keeps exhaust temps hot enough to help them scavenge, which allows for faster turbo spoolup, and more horsepower. Too big of a pipe will cool the exhaust gases down. This creates turbulence and back pressure. The result is actually a loss of power. When you make enough boost, power, and heat, then you can consider a 3”, but until then, stay smart. Save your money and go with a 2.5”. Keep in mind a 2.5” weighs less and the 2HP loss from a 3” could actually perform better because now there’s less weight to push. This will allow for better handling and braking as well. It’s a small amount but every bit helps.
TUNING:
I touched on this a little bit before. Tuning is key. It affects your performance and reliability. This part is where the magic happens so I’m going to keep this from being to generalized or specific because different systems respond differently. The first and most common thing to tune is your air to fuel ratio. This helps get the most and safest power out of your car (if done correctly). Tune too rich and you will bog, foul plugs, and lose power. Tune too lean and your car may lot last too long, as you are taking the temps up higher and risking the chance of knock/detonation. Ignition timing is the next step in tuning and can be the final bit needed to give you the extra safety you need for the longevity of the motor. Professional tuners should be doing tuning, so I’m cutting this part short. Paul and I can answer more specific questions if you must.
RELIABILITY:
Run too much boost on a daily driver and you’re engine will fail prematurely. Regardless of how perfect your tune is, higher boost always means less life in the motor. Boost is hotter, and boost makes for more pressure in your combustion chambers. If you expect to get 200k out of an aftermarket boosted car, you’re in the wrong scene. Mild boost (6psi or so) can actually last quite a long time. If you tune conservatively, adjust both WOT and partial throttle tunes, and stay on top of your oil changes, I wouldn’t be concerned with the motor at all. At slightly higher boost levels, proper tuning and maintenance is key. I’ve been driving my tC in all different temperatures for 8 months now with a turbo. The lowest boost the car has seen is 8.7psi and I’ve raced this car a lot. My motor’s running great and I know it will keep going at the rate it’s at. I change my Mobil 1 10W-30 synthetic oil every 2500-3000 miles, along with the oil filter. I’m running Denso IK22s for my spark plugs which run a little bit colder than the stock ones. Keep checking your oil levels, and don’t beat on your car unless it’s necessary. This combination can yield a long lasting, high powered Scion.
Now that you're eyes are killing you, I hoped you learned something. Boost is a fun thing to get into but you need to know what you're getting into. This is what Paul and I thrive on. If you have questions, comments, concerns, then post up. We'll take care of it.
*Appended* Electronics Guide:
The gizmo guide! I’d like to explain why you get what you get, which kind to get, and how necessary it is. I can answer any more questions about the product I’ve spoke about, or even ones I happened to have “left out”.
TOPIC 1 – GAUGES:
Why do I want gauges? If you’re a guy, you always want to know what a girl is thinking (if you’re a girl, vice versa). Wouldn’t it be cool if you could have a gauge that told you if a girl was ticked off or totally in love with you? Think of that same theory on your motor. When you start modifying your car, or push it to it’s limits, you need to know what’s going on. There are MANY various gauges out there that will inform you of what’s going on with your motor, depending on what kind of mods you’ve done. Before I go into specifics, let’s talk about a differentiator in price, ease of installation, and accuracy. There are two major types of gauges out there, electrical and mechanical. It should be obvious which one is better. In case you don’t know, yes it’s electrical! They are far more accurate, easier to install, and can offer more features such as data logging or linking (connecting 2 or more gauges together to work with each other). The only downside is the cost. Typical electronic boost gauges will go for around $200 where most mechanical gauges cost about $50-60. It’s better to have a cheap gauge than to not have one at all. So if you’re putting a turbo or S/C on your car, you want to have a gauge, regardless of the type.
Boost gauges:
I started talking about this earlier but I will not go into much more detail. Boost gauges have some differences. Some read boost only. Some will read boost and vacuum. They will then be metered in either PSI or BAR. PSI stands for pounds per square inch. This is the more common way in the states to measure boost, because most people know what the limits are. BAR however is more common everywhere else, and on many high HP cars in the US. BAR stands for barometric pressure. 1 BAR equals about 14.7psi. On low boost cars, it’s not as common to use a boost gauge. Most BAR gauges read up to 2.5 BAR which is about 36.75PSI. If you’re only running 8PSI, you won’t ever hit one and this may be somewhat hard to distinguish while you are driving. My preference for low boost tCs is a PSI Boost/VAC gauge that reads up to 15PSI. You will use the bulk of the gauge and it may help you see the actual number you’re running more easily. I personally use a Stewart Warner gauge, but it’s not 100% accurate and I quickly found that out after I installed my Apexi RSM. Either way, a boost gauge should be the first on your list if you running any type of forced induction on your car. It’s a great reference to have, and it may keep you from blowing your motor one day.
A/F Gauges:
It’s hard to say which is the second most important gauge, but I still feel that the Air/Fuel gauge is a must. There are two main types of A/F gauges out there. One is narrow band, one is a wide band. What’s the “band” you ask? The band is actually in reference to voltage. A narrow band operates with a sensor in your exhaust, and it sends out a signal varying from 0-1 Volt. Narrowbands do not come with an o2 sensor because the rely on your stock narrow band (your primary o2 sensor) to give the signal. Some cars aren’t fortune enough to have a narrow band, so we use a wide band. A wide band is actually MUCH better to have than a narrow. Widebands, though more expensive, are MUCH more accurate in A/F readings. What makes them wide is the 0-5 volt reading the sensor samples with. Our OEM wideband is a single channel wideband, instead of the normal dual channel. This means that aftermarket wideband gauges can not use the OEM sensor. The end result is all of us needing to buy a full stand-alone wideband kit such as an AEM or Innovate. Both are great gauges. NGK makes a nice unit as well. I have the AEM gauge and love it. It comes with interchangeable rings and plates to match most of anyone’s gauge theme. You want this gauge to know what your air fuel ratio is reading. Run too lean and you may blow your motor. Run too rich, and you may be loosing unnecessary amounts of power, and waste unnecessary amounts of gas. The stock fuel trim for our tC is 14.7. This is entirely too lean for any FI setup, and results in super high EGTS (being discussed next). Optimal power for a turbo setup is a 12.7 AFR. Our cars weren’t meant for that kind of stress however, so a more safe tune of 11.5-12 is better. 10 is rich, 15 is lean. Now you know your numbers.
EGT – Exhaust Gas Temperature
EGT gauges are another great gauge to help with safe tuning and driving. Your engine runs HOT! It’s reported that we hit over 1600 degrees F on the highway. Consider that if you buy a gauge that maxes out at 1600. You may not get the entire read you need to know exactly what your motor is doing. 1600 isn’t great, but it’s been seen on more cars lately. STi’s run fairly high EGTs as well. Theoretically, you want low EGTs. Go too low, it’s a sign that you may not be generating enough power. Too high of EGTs could show signs of possible engine failure, or unnecessary wear on the motor. Typically when you pull ignition timing, you end up creating higher EGTs.
Oil Pressure
Though not the top 3 in my choice, it’s still one to consider. I STRONGLY suggest that you only run an electric oil pressure gauge. Do you really want a hot oil line running inside your seating compartment? The idea of an oil pressure gauge is monitor oil activity in your motor. If you break, damage, or drop an oil line or filter, you will lose significant amounts of oil pressure. Keeping your eye on this gauge on a race track may save you a motor in case an event like this was to happen. It will give you time to shut down the engine before it seizes, saving you a lot of money and downtime.
Oil Temperature
Running some serious amounts of boost? Have an oil cooler? What grade oil are you using? If you push your stock oil cooled system too hard on a turbo’d car, you may break down the viscosity of your oil to a point where it’s just not doing it’s job anymore. Having a gauge like this will again tell you to let off and diagnose the problem before it leads to something worse (turbo or engine failure). Many turbos only use oil as their source of cooling. Run over 15psi daily, and our stock cooler may not be enough. The oil will not lubricate things properly, causing an even greater hike in temperature, and your turbo seals will fail. Lets also not forget the piston rings failing as well!
Fuel Pressure – FP
Running a fuel pressure regulator? How about an inline pump? Fuel is combustible (obviously!). If you have a severed fuel line you may be leaking right into your hot engine bay! Safety is a big concern on the race track so if you’ve heavily modified your fuel system you may want to consider keeping your eye on fuel pressure so you know everything’s going where it’s supposed to.
There are many other gauges out there such as water temp, tranny temp, voltage, nitrous, etc. With proper research, you will easily find which gauges are necessary for your application. Gauges are a must and will help protect your investment.
TOPIC 2 – Electronic Meters:
There are so many to choose from out there it’s hard to begin. Electronic meters can serve many uses. The main benefit from most electronic meters is the ability to monitor and display more than one bit of information about the car at one time. It also takes up less space. The units do cost more, but they are very accurate, may be more cost effective, and they look cool!
Many of the following are copied from the information provided to us at Dezod in an effort to save time for this right up. This information is property of Dezod and is not to be disclosed without our authorization.
APEXI RSM-GP: Like the original, the new Rev/Speed Meter GP is a complete multi function measuring device designed to measure and monitor data such as vehicle speed, engine RPM, and elapsed times. However, the strength of the new unit lies in its differences. Probably the most obvious being its completely redesigned look. This new aesthetically pleasing model was crafted to match the likes of other highly popular A'PEX electronics such as the VAFC (VTEC Controller) and the AVCR (Boost Controller). The new screen utilizes the easy to read VFD (Vacuum Fluorescent Display) with built in light sensor used in many of A'PEX's line up. The new unit also delivers a host of new functions. Standard features include: Engine RPM, Vehicle Speed, Travel Distance, and Battery Voltage (All which can be displayed in real time graph mode, numerical mode, or analogue mode; 1-4 channels at a time.), Peak Hold, Replay (With 60 second playback.), Speed Limiter Cut, 0-100m/200m/400m times with trap speed, 0-100km/h/200km/h/300km/h times, Mid Range Acceleration (The user can preset any range of speed to measure.), Stop Watch functions, Best Time Memory, RPM Warning, Speed Warning, RPM and Speed Outputs (For external devices requiring an RPM or speed signal.), Tire Size Correction (For acceleration and timing accuracy.), and Vehicle weight input. One of the most exiting of the new features is the option to utilize the revolutionary A'PEX G-Sensor (Sold separately.). The G Sensor allows the unit to measure G forces in 4-way front/rear/left/right directions. This data can be plotted in a graph display to map acceleration characteristics and lateral G's on the race track, or used in an array of new features including: Highly accurate 100m/200m/400m times with trap speed and wheel-spin correction, Horse Power Calculation, and Loss Power Calculation. By taking advantage of the optional G Sensor, the user can produce extremely accurate power measurements Usually, when measuring 0-400m times through the speed sensor signal alone, the meter will end measurement too early (shorter distance) due to wheel-spin. Using the G Sensor modifies the speed sensor signal, compensating for wheel-spin and producing impeccably accurate acceleration times.
Greddy E-01 and Emanage controller:
GReddy's new super Multi-Display Controller is the E-01. Designed as data display / logger and e-manage programmer, the e-01 can provide 3channel data-logging and access to all the programming features provided with the latest e-manage support tool. The large LCD screen, with green elecro-illuminesant backlighting is easy to see. The data display can view 3 different data channels simultaneously inputted by the e-manage. The data can be logged up for 3hours on a SD card while also giving warning set points, and peak & hold values. (Some features require optional harness to be access)
Greddy Profec E-01 (Emanage controller with boost sensor)
GReddy's new super multi-tasker is the PRofec e-01. Designed as a combination: boost-controller, data display / logger and e-manage programmer, the e-01 can provide superior boost response, increased boost, warning meter functions, 3channel data-logging, and access to all the programming features provided with the latest e-manage support tool. Even when used as just a boost controller the e-01 has features to smooth out the boost curve. With both an Auto and Manual setting for both external and actuator style wastegates, the new PRofec can alter its new compact, high capacity solenoid valve via various RPM ranges if need be. The large LCD screen, with green elecro-illuminesant backlighting is easy to see. Other standard features includes two preset boost levels, a timed over-take boost and compatibility with our Remote Switching System. The data display can view 3 different data channels simultaneously; like Boost, RPM, or any other channel inputted by the emanage. The data can be logged up for 3hours on a SD card while also giving warning set points, and peak & hold values. (Some features require optional harness to be access)
Greddy Intelligent Informeter: Read Up to 25 pieces of information:
Communicate with the factory ECU to red up to Channels. Like: Speedometer, RPM, Water Temp, Ignition Timing, Injector Rate, Intake Air Temperature., Fuel Temp., Air Flow Voltage, Intake Manifold Press., O2 Sensor Voltage, A/F, Battery Voltage, Throttle Position. WGV, ATF Temp., EGR Temp., Gear Position, 4WD ratio, Exhaust Temp.. Simple Plug & Play Installation: Just Plug-Iin the appropriate cable into your vehicle's Diagnostic port, under the dash (ISO 14230 or old Nissan fault diagnosis connector) And for vehicles which use OBD2 ports, a cigarette lighter plug powers up the unit. Easy to see Color LCD screen: By adopting a color screen, monitoring numerous values is easy. Key warning point values, are highlighted to call attention to them. Monitor, Record adn Playback: Not only does it monitor, but it Records and Playbacks Info. Data log up to 6 pieces of information simultanelusly. Recording resolution can be selected from fine to smoothing. 180 Degree Flexibility: With a quick selection, you can flip screen 180 degrees. allowing more mounting flexibility. You can slso choose between Japanese and English languages.
Blitz R-Vit Racing Vehicle Information Technology Type-1 Universal:
The R-VIT (Racing Vehicle Information Technology) is a state of the art monitoring system that can read and display up to 20 different types of Real Time information provided by the factory ECU. The R-VIT is a fully digital monitoring device with 5 different types of digital displaying capabilities (Needle Meter, Ellipse Meter, Bar Graph, Triple Monitor, and Six-fold Monitor). R-VIT features peak-hold recording, playback features, that can record and replay up to 99 seconds. Limits can be set in flash and audible warnings to notify the driver of different engine variables, thus reducing the chances of damaging the motor. (R-VIT is featured in a 1/2 Din size). R-VIT and SBC i-D INFARED communication: The R-VIT can communicate with the SBC i-D boost controller via INFARED to operate the Speed Map function, providing an accurate speed based boost. **The R-VIT can be used on most Japanese Imports 1996 and newer with the on-board diagnosis port. For Nissans 1989-1999, use R-VIT type II. For Toyotas manufactured before 1996, BLITZ will be releasing an R-VIT type III in the future
Autometer D-PIC: Clean Installation. No more devices hanging from your windshield, or cords dangling to your auxiliary power port. Built in standard 2 1/16” gauge size – D-PIC’s compact size allows it to be easily mounted in a Pod, Pillar, Cup or custom Dash location. Available in two styles to match either your Auto Meter Ultra-Lite or Cobalt gauges for a clean appearance and perfect complement to your existing instrumentation. Real–Time G's: Choose either forward (front and back) or lateral (left and right) axis instantaneous acceleration G Forces on the LED array and digital display. LED array graph will show magnitude of the G force, while the instantaneous value will be display in the numeric digital display
Peak memory feature allows you to recall the highest G Forces achieved in both axes (all four directions) during Real-Time operation. 0 to 60mph Acceleration Time: Measure your vehicle’s 0-60mph acceleration time with precision. Capture Peak Acceleration G Forces: Compare your latest efforts to a saved best, see the difference between the two, and improve your driving skills while monitoring how performance upgrades affect your vehicle’s performance. 60 to 0mph Braking Distance: Precisely calculate the distance your vehicle needs to come to a stop from 60mph. Capture Peak Deceleration G Forces
Compare your latest efforts to a saved best, see the difference between the two, and improve your driving skills while monitoring how performance upgrades affect your vehicle’s performance. ¼ Mile ET and Speed: Test your vehicle’s capabilities and times for quarter mile acceleration, and see both your ¼ mile speed in MPH and elapsed time in seconds. Capture Peak Acceleration G Forces: Compare your latest efforts to a saved best, see the difference between the two, and improve your driving skills while monitoring how performance upgrades affect your vehicle’s performance.
Reaction Time: Practice and record your reaction time in ¼ mile acceleration mode
Horsepower Mode: Calculate peak horsepower to the wheels (whp) of your vehicle in horsepower mode. Compare your latest peak to a saved best, see the difference between the two, and monitor how performance upgrades affect your vehicle’s performance.
*Note – info on Automer D-PIP sourced from www.autometer.com.
G-Tech Pro SS and RR displays – Info taken from www.gtechpro.com
SS and RRs are both plug and play systems. The SS will display HP, TQ, 60’ time, 1/8th and ¼ mile time, 0-60, 0-100-0, RPM and shift lights, handling Gs, and will record up to 30 runs. The RR has the same features but adds Road Race and Auto-X data logging, Performance Analysis software, multi-car support, 2 hr data acquisition, PC download cable, AC adapter, and permanent mount.
Ok so you’ve read all that? Most of these monitors do the same thing. It’s slight differences in cosmetics and a few features here and there that set them apart. I run primarily Apexi electronics and I love them. They’re rock solid, small, and get the job done.
TOPIC 3 – MISC
There are LOTS of little tid-bit goodies out there than offer some unique upgrades. My favorite to date is the Spearco water injection system. It cools your car, it’s compact, it’s reliable, and makes your car last longer! What more could you want? The unit comes with everything you need except the water tank but it can be purchased separately. For really hot weather or prolonged abuse, this is a cool little mod to have.
Nitrous Express N-tercooler system:
Nitrous for turbos! No not the nitrous that slams you in your seat from the push of a button. No not the nitrous that can be catastrophic for your motor if you put too high of a shot in at once. It’s the same exact type of nitrous, but in a “topical version”. Not one ounce of nitrous will enter the engine. It is simply used as an ultimate cooling device for intercoolers. The best cars to use this are the STis/WRXs with top mounted intercoolers. Push a button and you can have nitrous blasted right onto your intercooler! This not only looks and sounds cool, it’s actually functional. Eliminate heat soak and get that extra edge at the track that could give you the win!
O2 Simulators:
Though I’ve NEVER seen one work on a tC, there are others out there that work wonders on other cars. EVOs and STis with cat-delete pipes can use this little gadget to eliminate a CEL that is only generated by lack of catalyst efficiency. It’s a cool little gadget that keeps the pesky CEL light available for more important matters. The o2 sim works by “fooling” your ECU. It modifies your secondary o2 readings to show your ECU that it still has a Catalytic converter, even though it doesn’t.
Greddy Multi-Switch system.
This little device uses connected sensors to control other devices by using pre-selecting switch points. It can use info from speed, RPM, boost, or any other analog signal. Use this to control fans, nitrous switches, fuel pumps, etc. It’s basically a clean way of using automated control, instead of having switches all over the place.
Fuel Pumps:
Need more fuel? How about just better atomized fuel? Cars running higher pressured fuel systems benefit from more even firing throughout all the cylinders, and better atomization of the fuel particles that mix with the intake charge. The end result is maximum performance with a lesser chance of detonation. Your two main options are in-tank and in-line. In-take pumps are full replacement and are harder to install. In-line pumps utilize your stock fuel pump and are easier to install. In-lines are only good to a certain extent of power. An in-tank is a better option if you plan on driving a track car, or something with high levels of boost. Walbro, Vortec, MSD, BBK, Blitz, HKS, etc all make fuel pumps for various car applications, including universal.
Magnetic Fuel Conditioner:
Although it’s not electronic, it’s still a gadget. This system spreads fuel particles apart using magnetism. The end result is better burn efficiency. Better efficiency means more power and more throttle response. Inazma HG is one of the products that does this.
TOPIC 4 – COMPUTER MANAGEMENT
Our favorite and most complex part! Let’s talk about how intelligent computers can alter every aspect of your car’s performance. The only limit is your budget here.
Sub-topic – Fuel and EMS systems (stand-alone and piggy back)
There are two types of EMS systems out there. The Stand-alone replaces your stock ECU with an aftermarket one, while a piggy-back utilizes your original. Piggy backs are less expensive, easier to setup, cost less, but are more limited. Full stand-alones require a professional tuner, much more money and patience, and the know-how of which to get. The stand-alone has much greater potential if you know what you’re doing.
Piggy-backs:
GReddy Emanage Blue:One of the most common piggy back computers on the market today. It can control fuel and ignition, provided you buy all the harnesses for it. It works by modifying the MAF or MAP signal that the ECU sees. This is a nice simple way to tune things. For ignition, it simply intercepts the original ignition signal and delays or advances it where it’s told to do so. Even on MAF based cars, you can still tune by MAP if you purchase the Greddy Pressure sensor. This sensor is rated for about 45psi so I don’t think you’d ever need to worry about upgrading that unit. Use the pressure sensor if you’re running any type of forced induction. This makes boost transition much smoother, and allows you to modify the boost level without having to re-tune it every time. To tune the system, you can use an E-01, Profec E-01, or a Laptop PC if you purchase the support tool software. I’d use the support tool/laptop option because you can adjust every parameter of the unit with ease. The only downside to the Greddy EMS is the way it controls your engine. This may seem as a major flaw, but for mild boost this is still a great unit for the money. The system ONLY modifies MAF or MAP signals. The new cars are smart out there. Our tC is one of them. Our ECU always reads off of the primary o2 sensor to determine the AF values, in which it adjusts as necessary. That being said, the Emanage has no control over partial throttle tuning! The ECU simply overrides the signal and brings it back to the stock tune. You do have full control over WOT, which is where you make your peak boost/stress anyway. This is a good unit for the money, but still not the best option for our cars. This is why we’re developing our own EMS.
this should really be stickied
06-21-2006, 05:53 AM
#3
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thanks...
I didn't do any cut and paste work here so please know that I just typed up about 5pages on ms works with a size 10 font for all you guys haha! This is all off of what I know from experience.
The other stuff to come will be detailed as well
i'd like to eventually cover most of every component out there.
I didn't do any cut and paste work here so please know that I just typed up about 5pages on ms works with a size 10 font for all you guys haha! This is all off of what I know from experience.
The other stuff to come will be detailed as well
i'd like to eventually cover most of every component out there.
06-21-2006, 06:01 AM
#5
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chu da man! Hopefully people actually see this bad boy up there and read this. I'm sure this will be up for quite some time.
I'll either update this one or make another HUGE post for all the boost controllers, fuel computers, gauge types etc, out there to help people understand that as well. Maybe Paul will do it who knows, my hands are killin me right now lol
I'll either update this one or make another HUGE post for all the boost controllers, fuel computers, gauge types etc, out there to help people understand that as well. Maybe Paul will do it who knows, my hands are killin me right now lol
They are crazy.
06-22-2006, 07:49 PM
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Re: The Official Turbo FAQ sheet! School yourself here :)
Originally Posted by Joe_Dezod
Blow-off valve (BOV):
Once again, two types of BOVs. Atmospheric and recirculating. Some BOV’s have the ability to be both, depending on the fitting(s) attached to them. Atmospheric BOVs are much more common. The biggest reason is because everyone loves the loud sound of the whoosh when you shift gears and try to impress people. This may be the best alternative in some applications but not all. A BOV’s purpose is to let out or divert air when boost is made then the throttle body plate closes. All that compressed air is just itching to get into your intake manifold. When the throttle plate slams the door shut, where does all that air go? It heads right back where it came; towards the turbo. You don’t want that! It causes what is called compressor surge and is very bad for your turbo. The turbo gets hotter, it wears out faster,, and it lags when you get back onto boost because now it needs to speed up again. A BOV senses the boost to vacuum transition (by being hooked up into a vacuum line) and opens up. This frees all that extra air, and basically lets it out. Atmospheric BOVs will just let it out into the air, while recirculating BOVs will divert the air back into the intake pipe. Two reasons to divert back into the intake pipe are to limit the sound output, and to allow the MAF sensor to meter the air more accurately. The MAF thinks the air made it to the motor so it tells the ECU to add more fuel. When you vent the air out, the air is “gone” and there’s too much fuel now sitting in the motor. This causes your car to run lean and under higher boost applications will accelerate wear on spark plugs, fouling them out. It also wastes gas.
Once again, two types of BOVs. Atmospheric and recirculating. Some BOV’s have the ability to be both, depending on the fitting(s) attached to them. Atmospheric BOVs are much more common. The biggest reason is because everyone loves the loud sound of the whoosh when you shift gears and try to impress people. This may be the best alternative in some applications but not all. A BOV’s purpose is to let out or divert air when boost is made then the throttle body plate closes. All that compressed air is just itching to get into your intake manifold. When the throttle plate slams the door shut, where does all that air go? It heads right back where it came; towards the turbo. You don’t want that! It causes what is called compressor surge and is very bad for your turbo. The turbo gets hotter, it wears out faster,, and it lags when you get back onto boost because now it needs to speed up again. A BOV senses the boost to vacuum transition (by being hooked up into a vacuum line) and opens up. This frees all that extra air, and basically lets it out. Atmospheric BOVs will just let it out into the air, while recirculating BOVs will divert the air back into the intake pipe. Two reasons to divert back into the intake pipe are to limit the sound output, and to allow the MAF sensor to meter the air more accurately. The MAF thinks the air made it to the motor so it tells the ECU to add more fuel. When you vent the air out, the air is “gone” and there’s too much fuel now sitting in the motor. This causes your car to run lean and under higher boost applications will accelerate wear on spark plugs, fouling them out. It also wastes gas.
One thing I would like to point out is on the last sentence of this paragragh, shouldn't it be Rich instead of Lean?
06-23-2006, 05:55 AM
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bump. We lost the sticky after one day? I though this would help people with a reference to also check into for general questions.
Mods let me know if there's things I need to edit in order to keep this a sticky.
Mods let me know if there's things I need to edit in order to keep this a sticky.
07-02-2006, 03:32 PM
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Open and closed refers to how the wastegate is setup. Most kits out there ship with an external wastegate. The wastegate works by bypassing exhaust gases. The quiet option (IE. CLOSED) sends the by-passed exhaust gases back into the exhaust, but after the turbo. This works pretty well and is the more quiet option. The much louder option (usually makes a little bit more power) is open-dump, which is the open downpipe option. This means the bypassed exhaust gases actually go straight out the wastegate. An attached pipe will divert those gases down below the engine, which is strongly suggested to keep the temps down.
Hope that helps. If you're still confused, let me know.
Hope that helps. If you're still confused, let me know.