DIY-Installing Longer Wheel Studs..
#1
DIY-Installing Longer Wheel Studs..
I installed the longer wheel studs that came with my 5mm H&R wheel spacers (in the front wheels). It was actually much essayer then I thought. Below is a DIY with some pictures from the install.
Here is a picture of the longer H&R stud next to the stock stud
Start by jacking up only one side of the front of the car and remove the
wheel. Here is a picture with stock studs on.
From behind the hub, take out the two 17mm bolts that hold the brake caliper and remove the caliper. You will need to have something to support the caliper so that it wont hang by the brake line and possible brake it. I used a few bricks piled up. This picture depicts the two bolts to undo. When reinstalling these bolts they are torqued to 88 N-m / 65 ft-lbs.
Once the brake caliper is off the rotor (disk) can slide off by pulling on it. You might need to jiggle it a few times to get it to pop off. The picture below shows the rotor that has been taken off exposing the hub. The red circle around one of the studs shows the stud that is in the position to be banged out with a hammer. Notice that there is no obstruction behind this stud and it can be taken out from behind.
After banging out the first stud, you will need to rotate the hub in the direction of the red arrow so that the other studs can be positioned to be removed. To do this you will need to slightly jack up the other side of the front of the car so that the wheel is just barley off the ground.
After each stud is banged out, replace it with a new one by sliding it through the hub from the back side. Don't worry about securing it at this point. Bang all four stock studs out and replace with new studs by rotating the the rub. Once you are done doing this let the other side of the car down so that only the side you are working on is jacked up. This will stop the hub from turning while you are working on it. This picture shows a new stud being inserted from the back of the hub
You will next need to secure the new studs so that they are flush with the back of the hub. It is very difficult to try and bang them in with a hammer. A very easy way to get them in is to take a nut, preferably the stock lug nut that you know will fit on the stud, and tighten it on the new stud until the force pulls the stud all the way in.
You will probably want to use a torque wrench to get the leverage you need to wedge the new stud all the way in so that it is flush like the stock stud used to fit.
After replacing all four studs the hub should look like this.
Once you have them on replace the rotor and brake caliper. Torque the two 17mm brake caliper bolts to 88 N-m / 65 ft-lbs. Now you can put your new spacer on. This is a H&R 5mm spacer with the longer studs that came with the kit.
Hope this helps. It was not hard at all and is definitely a DIY project. Happy to answer any questions.
*Administrator's Note: Images no longer available
____________
Here is a picture of the longer H&R stud next to the stock stud
Start by jacking up only one side of the front of the car and remove the
wheel. Here is a picture with stock studs on.
From behind the hub, take out the two 17mm bolts that hold the brake caliper and remove the caliper. You will need to have something to support the caliper so that it wont hang by the brake line and possible brake it. I used a few bricks piled up. This picture depicts the two bolts to undo. When reinstalling these bolts they are torqued to 88 N-m / 65 ft-lbs.
Once the brake caliper is off the rotor (disk) can slide off by pulling on it. You might need to jiggle it a few times to get it to pop off. The picture below shows the rotor that has been taken off exposing the hub. The red circle around one of the studs shows the stud that is in the position to be banged out with a hammer. Notice that there is no obstruction behind this stud and it can be taken out from behind.
After banging out the first stud, you will need to rotate the hub in the direction of the red arrow so that the other studs can be positioned to be removed. To do this you will need to slightly jack up the other side of the front of the car so that the wheel is just barley off the ground.
After each stud is banged out, replace it with a new one by sliding it through the hub from the back side. Don't worry about securing it at this point. Bang all four stock studs out and replace with new studs by rotating the the rub. Once you are done doing this let the other side of the car down so that only the side you are working on is jacked up. This will stop the hub from turning while you are working on it. This picture shows a new stud being inserted from the back of the hub
You will next need to secure the new studs so that they are flush with the back of the hub. It is very difficult to try and bang them in with a hammer. A very easy way to get them in is to take a nut, preferably the stock lug nut that you know will fit on the stud, and tighten it on the new stud until the force pulls the stud all the way in.
You will probably want to use a torque wrench to get the leverage you need to wedge the new stud all the way in so that it is flush like the stock stud used to fit.
After replacing all four studs the hub should look like this.
Once you have them on replace the rotor and brake caliper. Torque the two 17mm brake caliper bolts to 88 N-m / 65 ft-lbs. Now you can put your new spacer on. This is a H&R 5mm spacer with the longer studs that came with the kit.
Hope this helps. It was not hard at all and is definitely a DIY project. Happy to answer any questions.
*Administrator's Note: Images no longer available
____________
Last edited by MR_LUV; 04-04-2019 at 04:04 PM. Reason: Awarded 10 Yr Badge
#3
I'm glad you showed the correct way to pull a stud through. I've seen people booger the hub by using the conical end of the lugnut
You should always use the flat side of the lugnut, and a washer is always a nice bit of insurance too.
You should always use the flat side of the lugnut, and a washer is always a nice bit of insurance too.
#6
The longer studs are needed to run a 10mm spacer. Without them, there aren't enough threads to get a lugnut on there safely. The spacer is to push the wheels out further.
For the rears, I run and would recommend the rear shim spacers from www.onetongarage.com. If you need more than that 10mm, then look at spacers. They make a nice spacer at OTG, as well.
Great write-up Minsk99, we'll get this added to the tech section.
For the rears, I run and would recommend the rear shim spacers from www.onetongarage.com. If you need more than that 10mm, then look at spacers. They make a nice spacer at OTG, as well.
Great write-up Minsk99, we'll get this added to the tech section.
#12
Originally Posted by silly_rabbit
Are the rear studs just as easy to remove?
#14
I can't confirm this, but I'm pretty sure the Land Cruiser studs are only for the rear of the xB and only for an extra 10mm. The front studs on the xB are longer than the rear ones, so it won't work. If you need to go longer in the front I believe you can order longer studs directly from H&R.
#15
Originally Posted by pdrizzle
I can't confirm this, but I'm pretty sure the Land Cruiser studs are only for the rear of the xB and only for an extra 10mm. The front studs on the xB are longer than the rear ones, so it won't work.
This proves the xB rear studs are definitely shorter than the fronts. I measured approx 5mm difference between the LC studs and xB fronts. Since pdrizzle said the LC's are 10mm longer than xB rears,this means xB rears are 5mm shorter than xB fronts.
#16
Originally Posted by Ed
Originally Posted by pdrizzle
I can't confirm this, but I'm pretty sure the Land Cruiser studs are only for the rear of the xB and only for an extra 10mm. The front studs on the xB are longer than the rear ones, so it won't work.
This proves the xB rear studs are definitely shorter than the fronts. I measured approx 5mm difference between the LC studs and xB fronts. Since pdrizzle said the LC's are 10mm shorter than xB rears,this means xB rears are 5mm shorter than xB fronts.
#17
Originally Posted by pdrizzle
I can confirm that the xB studs are longer in the front than in the rear. I think you meant to say that the front LC studs are 10mm longer than the rear xB studs, but yeah, your logic seems correct. So the conclusion is that LC front studs can be used with 5mm spacers up front and 10mm spacers in the rear.
#18
whatchu know about that, VW put poked rims on the map!
old pic (before a majority of mods)
but im not running spacers, thas 18x9.5 and 18x8.5 boy
(baddddd pic)
old pic (before a majority of mods)
but im not running spacers, thas 18x9.5 and 18x8.5 boy
(baddddd pic)
Last edited by MR_LUV; 02-02-2018 at 08:31 AM.
#19
Nice thread!
I was rolling down the highway a few days back and I heard a pop....
Then I exited and went to where I was needing to be and heard another pop!
I pulled over and 3 out of my 4 studs had snapped....
This information is a life saver and a money saver.....
Thanks.....
I was rolling down the highway a few days back and I heard a pop....
Then I exited and went to where I was needing to be and heard another pop!
I pulled over and 3 out of my 4 studs had snapped....
This information is a life saver and a money saver.....
Thanks.....
#20
Originally Posted by popalock85
Nice thread!
I was rolling down the highway a few days back and I heard a pop....
Then I exited and went to where I was needing to be and heard another pop!
I pulled over and 3 out of my 4 studs had snapped....
This information is a life saver and a money saver.....
Thanks.....
I was rolling down the highway a few days back and I heard a pop....
Then I exited and went to where I was needing to be and heard another pop!
I pulled over and 3 out of my 4 studs had snapped....
This information is a life saver and a money saver.....
Thanks.....