Breaking in the car. Has anyone done this?
#1
Breaking in the car. Has anyone done this?
Hey i saw this breaking in method shown on a different scion forum and i'm wondering if anyone has actually tryed this. It seems to work good in theory but i do not know with real life. Thanks for comments/posts
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
#2
Re: Breaking in the car. Has anyone done this?
Originally Posted by yawaben
Hey i saw this breaking in method shown on a different scion forum and i'm wondering if anyone has actually tryed this. It seems to work good in theory but i do not know with real life. Thanks for comments/posts
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
you seem to asking the appropriateness of "aggressive" breaking in of an engine.
#3
I've said it before, he has the right method, and I was agressive when I "broke-in" my engine, but it was within the first 50 miles, and I changed the oil directly after, and changed it again at 1000 miles, then 3000 then every 5000 after that
by "agressive" break-in, I mean putting the car through ALL of it's RPM ranges "progressively" within the first 100 miles. I DO NOT MEAN pedal to the floor at every stop!!! - I mean gradual increase of the RPM's and letting the engine "coast" it's way through the RPM's - I used 2nd gear and progressively winded it out over the course of a week, say every day increasing the maximum allowable revs by 500 starting at 3000. So day 1, shift at 3000 rpms every once in a while, next day do 3500, next day 4000 and DON'T floor it, and DON'T break the RPM's for that set day, or say shift at 5krpms EVERY shift.
My background and experience comes from racing remote control cars with nitromethane powered, single-piston engines that rev upwards of 15,000+RPM's resembling a single-piston motorcycle engine. If I re-sleeved an engine and started it up and gunned it to 15,000 RPM's it would lock up without question, and I'd have to do another rebuild. BUT if I work my way up the range, it will give MORE power and MORE reliability throughout the ENTIRE RPM range than just "baby-ing" it for a while at the start. I can say that from experience because I did "baby" my first nitro engine because I didn't know how to do a proper break-in and it had almost no power in the upper RPM ranges compared to my later engines, and compared to the same engine re-sleeved with a rod and piston and properly broken-in.
My theory on major companies NOT telling you to be agressive on the engine to break it in is because of the LIABILITY OF THE CONSEQUENCES. It is much easier to say "we told you to go easy and you most likely didn't" than say "GO ***** TO THE WALL" and then "I didn't mean sit in 2nd gear on the highway!!"
But it's your engine, and you do what you want with it. The warranty is there to cover defects, and the factory has a rev-limiter there for a reason (to prevent damage) so in actual reality, if you do not purposely abuse your car, if anything goes wrong it is covered under warranty, and a "different break-in method" won't have substantial consequences if there are paramaters SET to PREVENT damage.
by "agressive" break-in, I mean putting the car through ALL of it's RPM ranges "progressively" within the first 100 miles. I DO NOT MEAN pedal to the floor at every stop!!! - I mean gradual increase of the RPM's and letting the engine "coast" it's way through the RPM's - I used 2nd gear and progressively winded it out over the course of a week, say every day increasing the maximum allowable revs by 500 starting at 3000. So day 1, shift at 3000 rpms every once in a while, next day do 3500, next day 4000 and DON'T floor it, and DON'T break the RPM's for that set day, or say shift at 5krpms EVERY shift.
My background and experience comes from racing remote control cars with nitromethane powered, single-piston engines that rev upwards of 15,000+RPM's resembling a single-piston motorcycle engine. If I re-sleeved an engine and started it up and gunned it to 15,000 RPM's it would lock up without question, and I'd have to do another rebuild. BUT if I work my way up the range, it will give MORE power and MORE reliability throughout the ENTIRE RPM range than just "baby-ing" it for a while at the start. I can say that from experience because I did "baby" my first nitro engine because I didn't know how to do a proper break-in and it had almost no power in the upper RPM ranges compared to my later engines, and compared to the same engine re-sleeved with a rod and piston and properly broken-in.
My theory on major companies NOT telling you to be agressive on the engine to break it in is because of the LIABILITY OF THE CONSEQUENCES. It is much easier to say "we told you to go easy and you most likely didn't" than say "GO ***** TO THE WALL" and then "I didn't mean sit in 2nd gear on the highway!!"
But it's your engine, and you do what you want with it. The warranty is there to cover defects, and the factory has a rev-limiter there for a reason (to prevent damage) so in actual reality, if you do not purposely abuse your car, if anything goes wrong it is covered under warranty, and a "different break-in method" won't have substantial consequences if there are paramaters SET to PREVENT damage.
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