How to "race" an auto turbo?
#1
How to "race" an auto turbo?
arite so im just curious whats the best way to race an turbo auto from a dig or from some rolls?
how bad is it to downshift to lets say 1st for a 20 roll so the rpms are near like 3K when u go?
whats the best tactics for racing the auto?
how bad is it to downshift to lets say 1st for a 20 roll so the rpms are near like 3K when u go?
whats the best tactics for racing the auto?
#3
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Join Date: Nov 2005
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From a dig.... Hold the brake and hit the gas and rev as high as the car will go without moving forward. Let go of the brake and put the pedal to the floor. Do that in 3 or 2. No need to do it in L as its not any faster
By doing the brake torque thing I just desrcibed, the car starts to build boost so when you let go of the brake, you have instant boost
By doing the brake torque thing I just desrcibed, the car starts to build boost so when you let go of the brake, you have instant boost
#6
If its a stock tranny.......YOU DONT
not unless you want a good reason to replace it
Upgrade the tranny and you can do whatever you want.
An auto built right has way more potential than a 5 speed when it comes to drag racing.
Regards-
TOdd
not unless you want a good reason to replace it
Upgrade the tranny and you can do whatever you want.
An auto built right has way more potential than a 5 speed when it comes to drag racing.
Regards-
TOdd
#11
Originally Posted by andino
^^ Just step on the petal if you have a stock auto tranny
If you're serious about it, get a shift kit, a high-stall torque converter, a transmission cooler or all of the above. Otherwise, just drive it normally.
#12
Try this. Notice we're at the track.
Stage shallow, only pulling forward enough to break the first laser. Come to a complete stop.
Car in N.
Rev the motor while depressing the brake. You'll feel the brake pedal sink in, farther than it would without rev'ing. This is because you're increasing the pressure in the brake lines with the engine reving.
Stop reving when your brake pedal sinks as far as it's going to go. HOLD the brake pedal down.
While NOT REVING... put the car in drive. Now, press on the gas slightly, which will make the car want to move forward against the braking power. Give it just enough juice to reach about 1800-2000 rpm.
(If you're in a turbo, you might be building a little boost already with this. Unsure.)
Leave it in DRIVE for the race. Do not shift yourself. An automatic is generally slower than a manual in low-power cars due to more driveline losses (more friction), NOT because "you can shift faster." By trying to manually control the shifting, all you're doing is introducing more driver error.
When you see the 3rd yellow, release the brake and mash the gas. Hopefully you'll launch at a point where you won't bog down, nor spin. Adjust launch point until you find the sweet spot for your car, your suspension, and your tires.
.
Never Neutral-drop. BTW. That's asking for it.
Stage shallow, only pulling forward enough to break the first laser. Come to a complete stop.
Car in N.
Rev the motor while depressing the brake. You'll feel the brake pedal sink in, farther than it would without rev'ing. This is because you're increasing the pressure in the brake lines with the engine reving.
Stop reving when your brake pedal sinks as far as it's going to go. HOLD the brake pedal down.
While NOT REVING... put the car in drive. Now, press on the gas slightly, which will make the car want to move forward against the braking power. Give it just enough juice to reach about 1800-2000 rpm.
(If you're in a turbo, you might be building a little boost already with this. Unsure.)
Leave it in DRIVE for the race. Do not shift yourself. An automatic is generally slower than a manual in low-power cars due to more driveline losses (more friction), NOT because "you can shift faster." By trying to manually control the shifting, all you're doing is introducing more driver error.
When you see the 3rd yellow, release the brake and mash the gas. Hopefully you'll launch at a point where you won't bog down, nor spin. Adjust launch point until you find the sweet spot for your car, your suspension, and your tires.
.
Never Neutral-drop. BTW. That's asking for it.
#14
Originally Posted by fishbone
Originally Posted by andino
^^ Just step on the petal if you have a stock auto tranny
...If you're serious about it,
get a shift kit, a high-stall torque converter, a transmission cooler or all of the above. Otherwise, just drive it normally.
#15
Unfortunately I am not the most qualified person here to answer that question. Anybody else?
Later edit: I forgot about Level 10
Be warned that you're looking at a lot of dough ;)
http://www.levelten.com/products.htm
They have a lot of stuff: shift kits, reinforced/racing/high-stall torque converters, clutch kits, etc.
Just take note that to locate Scion-specific products, on the selector on the top, go to Imports and it is actually under the Toyota brand, keep scrolling in the sub-menu and you'll find the tC, xA and xB
Later edit: I forgot about Level 10
Be warned that you're looking at a lot of dough ;)
http://www.levelten.com/products.htm
They have a lot of stuff: shift kits, reinforced/racing/high-stall torque converters, clutch kits, etc.
Just take note that to locate Scion-specific products, on the selector on the top, go to Imports and it is actually under the Toyota brand, keep scrolling in the sub-menu and you'll find the tC, xA and xB
#16
fishbone and browndogg are correct about how to race your auto from a dig, as from a roll you should already be in boost while the car is in drive since it stays in boost the whole time. "downshifting" as most people call it is just adding more stress on your motor and tranny without making you even go faster. you do feel that you go faster but really when it comes down to the shift point it's way to slow that you end up loosing time.
#17
Originally Posted by fishbone
Unfortunately I am not the most qualified person here to answer that question. Anybody else?
Later edit: I forgot about Level 10
Be warned that you're looking at a lot of dough ;)
http://www.levelten.com/products.htm
They have a lot of stuff: shift kits, reinforced/racing/high-stall torque converters, clutch kits, etc.
Just take note that to locate Scion-specific products, on the selector on the top, go to Imports and it is actually under the Toyota brand, keep scrolling in the sub-menu and you'll find the tC, xA and xB
Later edit: I forgot about Level 10
Be warned that you're looking at a lot of dough ;)
http://www.levelten.com/products.htm
They have a lot of stuff: shift kits, reinforced/racing/high-stall torque converters, clutch kits, etc.
Just take note that to locate Scion-specific products, on the selector on the top, go to Imports and it is actually under the Toyota brand, keep scrolling in the sub-menu and you'll find the tC, xA and xB
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