< < < HID Plug and Play Kits $100 SHIPPED OVERNIGHT
#3521
Anything on the retrofitting level deserves to have lots of questions answered, so don't worry about that part
Q1) which of these items will require me to bake my headlight housing & take it apart in order for me to make them fit?
A1) All of them will require you to bake apart your headlights in order to install the projectors themselves.
Q2) i know you said it should work nicely, but then you mentioned something about using my own shroud?
A2) The changing of the shrouds on the G1 and G3 projectors has been a common question. It sounds like you're looking for the simplest installation, so I wouldn't worry about that.
Q3) i'm really not trying to bake & take apart anything; i just want to take out my halogens & put something else in with little to no extra work.
A3) Welp, hate to say this, but that completely eliminates any projector kit out of the equation. You're best solution then is a plug-and-play HID kit.
Q4) Does the morimoto have the halo?
A4) No sir. Although you could attach one to a shroud, and subsequently attach the shroud to the projector itself. So it's completely doable.
Q5) the morimoto uses a H1 bulb size. the xD uses H4, does this matter?
A5) Technically no, because when you switch to a Morimoto projector you physically change what bulb is required. We could get together a relay harness so that it matches up with the vehicle.
Q1) which of these items will require me to bake my headlight housing & take it apart in order for me to make them fit?
A1) All of them will require you to bake apart your headlights in order to install the projectors themselves.
Q2) i know you said it should work nicely, but then you mentioned something about using my own shroud?
A2) The changing of the shrouds on the G1 and G3 projectors has been a common question. It sounds like you're looking for the simplest installation, so I wouldn't worry about that.
Q3) i'm really not trying to bake & take apart anything; i just want to take out my halogens & put something else in with little to no extra work.
A3) Welp, hate to say this, but that completely eliminates any projector kit out of the equation. You're best solution then is a plug-and-play HID kit.
Q4) Does the morimoto have the halo?
A4) No sir. Although you could attach one to a shroud, and subsequently attach the shroud to the projector itself. So it's completely doable.
Q5) the morimoto uses a H1 bulb size. the xD uses H4, does this matter?
A5) Technically no, because when you switch to a Morimoto projector you physically change what bulb is required. We could get together a relay harness so that it matches up with the vehicle.
#3522
thanks for answering all of my questions! hmmm...i've got some things to think about. i don't want the plug & play kits, so, i'll just have to wait until i save up enough money and get the G3 kit. do you know any good links on how to accomplish the retrofitting myself? do you have any specifically for a scion xD? how hard is it for a beginner to do? it would be best to buy second set of headlight housings wouldn't it? worse case scenario, i'll just take them to someone to do.
http://www.3bspecialties.com/Project...all_Cobalt.htm
The Scion xD should not be any more complicated. In fact you'll get to skip the entire drilling process because the way the G3/G1 projectors are setup, they actually leave room to run the wires straight through the bolt up.
Honestly if you start on a Sunday morning, with only the most basic clue of what you're doing, you should be done in 4-6 hours (that's the headlights baked open, projectors bolted in, wiring run and hooked up, projectors aligned, and lenses back on the headlights... possibly a case of beer in by noon). And that's the first time around with being nervous the entire time.
If you're really worried, pick up a spare set of headlights. The first set I did was on a spare set of Kawasaki motorcycle headlights and those were dead simple. Had to remove the little spring that holds the regular bulb in and the rest bolted together.
#3529
Any advice on how to keep the relay from getting that stupid corrosion? I heard someone put theirs in a plastic baggie and ziptied it... would you recommend that?
Relays are not expensive, but they are a pain in the rear to swap out when they go out... especially when you least expect it (like on a hot dry summer evening)...
This is not an indication of the kit's poor quality... the kit is AWESOME... but any electric product with a relay even slightly exposed to the elements will have this issue... just looking for a good solution...
Relays are not expensive, but they are a pain in the rear to swap out when they go out... especially when you least expect it (like on a hot dry summer evening)...
This is not an indication of the kit's poor quality... the kit is AWESOME... but any electric product with a relay even slightly exposed to the elements will have this issue... just looking for a good solution...
#3530
Any advice on how to keep the relay from getting that stupid corrosion? I heard someone put theirs in a plastic baggie and ziptied it... would you recommend that?
Relays are not expensive, but they are a pain in the rear to swap out when they go out... especially when you least expect it (like on a hot dry summer evening)...
This is not an indication of the kit's poor quality... the kit is AWESOME... but any electric product with a relay even slightly exposed to the elements will have this issue... just looking for a good solution...
Relays are not expensive, but they are a pain in the rear to swap out when they go out... especially when you least expect it (like on a hot dry summer evening)...
This is not an indication of the kit's poor quality... the kit is AWESOME... but any electric product with a relay even slightly exposed to the elements will have this issue... just looking for a good solution...
What we recommend doing for improving the survival rate of a relay harness is:
1) Dielectric grease on the fuse and relay pins. This helps tremendously. While you're at it, I would use it on all of the connections. If it's good enough for spark plugs and ATV abuse, it's good enough for HIDs.
2) The bottom of the relay sockets are open. Get a small tube of clear silicone and fill the bottom of the sockets till it's solid. Do the same with the fuse. If you're bored, do it with the ballast plugs. Ironically the ballast plugs have rubber fittings on them (inside and out) and are the least prone to water seeping through, but I've seen stranger.
3) Pray that where ever you set the relay, that it's not an area prone to getting wet. If you're replacing relays on a regular basis, you should really relocate it. A friend's Cobalt used to constantly blow out relays. We finally got him to move the relay and after that, he never had a problem. Until he sold the car and the poor guy who bought it drove it into a ditch...
4) For the truly insane: Move the relay to the inside of the car.
#3531
Clearing out some overstock from a shop that backed out on an order.
The whole batch is listed on the webstore.
Below are some of the more common bulbs.
----
Bulb Size: BA9S
LEDs: 10-SMD
LED Type: 1210 SMD
Lumens: 70
Color: White
Note: Radial design, no taller than a regular BA9S bulb.
------
Bulb Size: T10 / 194
LEDs: 1-Watt
LED Type: High-Power SMD
Lumens: 40
Color: White
------
Bulb Size: T10 / 194
LEDs: 4 SMD
LED Type: 1210 SMD
Lumens: 21
Color: White
------
Bulb Size: T10 / 194
LEDs: 6-SMD
LED Type: 1210
Lumens: 42
Color: White
Non-Polar Design (can be plugged in backwards)
------
Bulb Size: T11 / Festoon 31mm
LEDs: 6 SMD
LED Type: 5050 SMD, 3 Chip
Lumens: 120
Color: White
------
Bulb Size: T11 / Festoon 31mm
LEDs: 6 SMD
LED Type: 1210 SMD
Lumens: 42
Color: White
------
Bulb Size: T6.5 / Festoon 31mm
LEDs: 2 SMD
LED Type: 1210 SMD
Lumens: 14
Color: White
Note: This is a common sunvisor light, but I would still pop the covers off to be sure that it's the same size. They're either these or T5's (extremely small peanut/wedge bulbs)
The whole batch is listed on the webstore.
Below are some of the more common bulbs.
----
Bulb Size: BA9S
LEDs: 10-SMD
LED Type: 1210 SMD
Lumens: 70
Color: White
Note: Radial design, no taller than a regular BA9S bulb.
------
Bulb Size: T10 / 194
LEDs: 1-Watt
LED Type: High-Power SMD
Lumens: 40
Color: White
------
Bulb Size: T10 / 194
LEDs: 4 SMD
LED Type: 1210 SMD
Lumens: 21
Color: White
------
Bulb Size: T10 / 194
LEDs: 6-SMD
LED Type: 1210
Lumens: 42
Color: White
Non-Polar Design (can be plugged in backwards)
------
Bulb Size: T11 / Festoon 31mm
LEDs: 6 SMD
LED Type: 5050 SMD, 3 Chip
Lumens: 120
Color: White
------
Bulb Size: T11 / Festoon 31mm
LEDs: 6 SMD
LED Type: 1210 SMD
Lumens: 42
Color: White
------
Bulb Size: T6.5 / Festoon 31mm
LEDs: 2 SMD
LED Type: 1210 SMD
Lumens: 14
Color: White
Note: This is a common sunvisor light, but I would still pop the covers off to be sure that it's the same size. They're either these or T5's (extremely small peanut/wedge bulbs)
#3532
Got a phone call last night asking about projector headlights and the guy said, we don't carry any... o'really?
05-09 Scion TC, projector headlights
http://shop.3bspecialties.com/Headlights_c151.htm
04-06 Scion XB, projector headlights
http://shop.3bspecialties.com/Headlights_c911.htm
The entire Scion section (new parts get added based on request and time)
http://shop.3bspecialties.com/Scion_c572.htm
What's posted up are the short list. There's a few more we can get, just haven't had a chance to get the entire catalog up there.
05-09 Scion TC, projector headlights
http://shop.3bspecialties.com/Headlights_c151.htm
04-06 Scion XB, projector headlights
http://shop.3bspecialties.com/Headlights_c911.htm
The entire Scion section (new parts get added based on request and time)
http://shop.3bspecialties.com/Scion_c572.htm
What's posted up are the short list. There's a few more we can get, just haven't had a chance to get the entire catalog up there.
#3535
*bump*
Direct email (sales-at-3bspec.com) are still the best way to get a hold of us.
Slowly organizing the Scion specific section on the site as well. New parts added based on requests for pricing, random site searches, and time.
3BSpec: Scion section
Direct email (sales-at-3bspec.com) are still the best way to get a hold of us.
Slowly organizing the Scion specific section on the site as well. New parts added based on requests for pricing, random site searches, and time.
3BSpec: Scion section
#3536
operatic can we still just pay you directly or do we need to go through the website?? i bought a set originally through you now i need a set for h11 bulbs... its showing me options for drl module and such... btw its for a silverado 2008 please let me know..
#3537
Weirdest thing. I reported a little while back when I got my HID kit that the driver side would faulter on occasion and not fire up when I turned them on, and would fire up on maybe the second or third click of the headlights. To single out the problem of it being a ballast or bulb, I switch the ballast around. The Weird part.....both sides have been firing up every time since the switch.
So, with that said, I don't feel I need to go through the hassle of shipping stuff back to be replaced since I haven't had a problem since swapping the ballast around.
So, with that said, I don't feel I need to go through the hassle of shipping stuff back to be replaced since I haven't had a problem since swapping the ballast around.
#3538
For the '08 Silverado's the following options work:
Ballast = 35w Digital Ballast
Harness = Plug-and-Play
DRL Module = No
----
Weirdest thing. I reported a little while back when I got my HID kit that the driver side would faulter on occasion and not fire up when I turned them on, and would fire up on maybe the second or third click of the headlights. To single out the problem of it being a ballast or bulb, I switch the ballast around. The Weird part.....both sides have been firing up every time since the switch.
So, with that said, I don't feel I need to go through the hassle of shipping stuff back to be replaced since I haven't had a problem since swapping the ballast around.
So, with that said, I don't feel I need to go through the hassle of shipping stuff back to be replaced since I haven't had a problem since swapping the ballast around.
I've seen stranger :D
#3540
[quote=operatic;3687919]
It appears as though I've spoken to soon. My fiance just came back in from grabbing Subway and said she couldn't get the passenger light to come on. Therefore after the switch of the ballast, the issue has also switched. So, I received a bad ballast.
Weirdest thing. I reported a little while back when I got my HID kit that the driver side would faulter on occasion and not fire up when I turned them on, and would fire up on maybe the second or third click of the headlights. To single out the problem of it being a ballast or bulb, I switch the ballast around. The Weird part.....both sides have been firing up every time since the switch.
So, with that said, I don't feel I need to go through the hassle of shipping stuff back to be replaced since I haven't had a problem since swapping the ballast around.
So, with that said, I don't feel I need to go through the hassle of shipping stuff back to be replaced since I haven't had a problem since swapping the ballast around.
It appears as though I've spoken to soon. My fiance just came back in from grabbing Subway and said she couldn't get the passenger light to come on. Therefore after the switch of the ballast, the issue has also switched. So, I received a bad ballast.