changing your own oil...
#21
Originally Posted by hayalex6
Originally Posted by dittoprinter
As long as you own the car???? How'd you manage that?
Don't worry, they'll find plenty of other service work to do to make up for loss of revenue on the oil.
My dealer only gives the standard three free changes, but every time I took it in I got the pitch for the $100 "recommended service & inspection". Upon further questioning I was reluctantly told that this was a _dealer_ recommendation, not a Toyota recommendation, and the service consisted of such exotica as looking at the brake pads (just looking, not measuring) and checking to see if the CV boots are torn. I can do that myself and keep the $100, thankyouverymuch!
I had a heck of a time convincing them to forgo the "Free Car Wash" that they toss in with the free oil changes. Wouldn't mind the wash, but the guy at the wash rack used the same rag on the top of the car as he did under the rockers. Road tar doesn't come off very easily.
#22
Originally Posted by kzhorse
I just go to Walmart for $12 every 5k miles.
I'm getting to old to craw under the car,Its bad enough what I have to do at work.
Scott
I'm getting to old to craw under the car,Its bad enough what I have to do at work.
Scott
#23
Originally Posted by Max
The only added step I did was to fill the filter up with oil and lube the gasket. Since it sits vertically (hole at the top) I was able to fill it up and screw it in without spilling anything. This will help that engine's first gulp to be lubricated.
So no, there's nothing to remove aside from the filter and plug, and they're right next to each other.
So no, there's nothing to remove aside from the filter and plug, and they're right next to each other.
I too fill the filter before installing.
#24
okay, so I changed the oil last weekend. the Toyota filter was $5 at the dealership and it came w/ a new fabric washer for the drain plug. I got 5W/30 synthetic oil. I also -finally- hooked up my oil pressure gauge adapter.
everything went smoothly. here's my question: I drive it the same as I always did, but I could swear the car runs/idles smoother. she's always gotten regular oil changes, so that's not it. synthetic wouldn't make a noticable difference. would it?
everything went smoothly. here's my question: I drive it the same as I always did, but I could swear the car runs/idles smoother. she's always gotten regular oil changes, so that's not it. synthetic wouldn't make a noticable difference. would it?
#25
Originally Posted by peterbilt
okay, so I changed the oil last weekend. the Toyota filter was $5 at the dealership and it came w/ a new fabric washer for the drain plug. I got 5W/30 synthetic oil. I also -finally- hooked up my oil pressure gauge adapter.
everything went smoothly. here's my question: I drive it the same as I always did, but I could swear the car runs/idles smoother. she's always gotten regular oil changes, so that's not it. synthetic wouldn't make a noticable difference. would it?
everything went smoothly. here's my question: I drive it the same as I always did, but I could swear the car runs/idles smoother. she's always gotten regular oil changes, so that's not it. synthetic wouldn't make a noticable difference. would it?
#26
Originally Posted by peterbilt
okay, so I changed the oil last weekend. the Toyota filter was $5 at the dealership and it came w/ a new fabric washer for the drain plug. I got 5W/30 synthetic oil. I also -finally- hooked up my oil pressure gauge adapter.
everything went smoothly. here's my question: I drive it the same as I always did, but I could swear the car runs/idles smoother. she's always gotten regular oil changes, so that's not it. synthetic wouldn't make a noticable difference. would it?
everything went smoothly. here's my question: I drive it the same as I always did, but I could swear the car runs/idles smoother. she's always gotten regular oil changes, so that's not it. synthetic wouldn't make a noticable difference. would it?
However, if you think it runs smoother, relax and enjoy it! Maybe your car just responds nicely to personal attention!
George
#27
I haven't done the DIY oil change on the xA yet, but I highly recomend getting two copper drain plug gaskets and installing one when you do the first oil chenge and then put the other one with your oil change stuff. Replace the drain plug gasket when the old one starts getting beat up. then buy another one when you buy the stuff for the next oil change. I always use copper drain plug gaskets, they last longer, and it is less likely that you will break it when (not if) you over tighten the drain plug. I also feel that copper seals better, but that is only my oppinion, but for an ten cent part, what's the harm?
As far as Mobil1 goes, I have never goten over 100,000 miles out of an engine I have put it into. And I have never gotten less than 100,000 miles out of an engine that I have run regular old dead dinosaur in(even ones I rebuilt after the mobil1 motor blew). The only exceptions being my 66 Baracuda (fell appart before 60,000 miles) and my 63 chevy II (I only put about 600 miles on it before I sold it).
As far as Mobil1 goes, I have never goten over 100,000 miles out of an engine I have put it into. And I have never gotten less than 100,000 miles out of an engine that I have run regular old dead dinosaur in(even ones I rebuilt after the mobil1 motor blew). The only exceptions being my 66 Baracuda (fell appart before 60,000 miles) and my 63 chevy II (I only put about 600 miles on it before I sold it).
#28
I buy my Mobil 1 at Costco and get my filters from the dealer. I'd rather do it myself because on my first and only oil change and the dealer, they managed to leave greasy black finger prints all over the car as well as chip the paint on the door.
I get more piece of mind by simply doing it myself. It is easy and only takes 10-15 minutes. I usually go 4,000 miles per change due to how small the filter is. The oil looks decent still at 4,000, so I could probably go a bit longer but what the heck.
I get more piece of mind by simply doing it myself. It is easy and only takes 10-15 minutes. I usually go 4,000 miles per change due to how small the filter is. The oil looks decent still at 4,000, so I could probably go a bit longer but what the heck.
#29
Originally Posted by bblhed
I haven't done the DIY oil change on the xA yet, but I highly recomend getting two copper drain plug gaskets and installing one when you do the first oil chenge and then put the other one with your oil change stuff. Replace the drain plug gasket when the old one starts getting beat up. then buy another one when you buy the stuff for the next oil change. I always use copper drain plug gaskets, they last longer, and it is less likely that you will break it when (not if) you over tighten the drain plug. I also feel that copper seals better, but that is only my oppinion, but for an ten cent part, what's the harm?
Overtighten the drain plug? Not on my own car! That's what happens if you go to Jiffy Lube, but there isn't much to be done about that except to avoid oil change hacks.
If the stock washer doesn't leak, then how can a copper washer seal better? Half of nothing is still nothing!
If we really wanted to get exotic with oil plug gaskets we could machine the drain plug for an o-ring. We could even knurl the outside and make it out of titanium! That would be kewl!
#30
Originally Posted by George
Originally Posted by bblhed
I haven't done the DIY oil change on the xA yet, but I highly recomend getting two copper drain plug gaskets and installing one when you do the first oil chenge and then put the other one with your oil change stuff. Replace the drain plug gasket when the old one starts getting beat up. then buy another one when you buy the stuff for the next oil change. I always use copper drain plug gaskets, they last longer, and it is less likely that you will break it when (not if) you over tighten the drain plug. I also feel that copper seals better, but that is only my oppinion, but for an ten cent part, what's the harm?
Overtighten the drain plug? Not on my own car! That's what happens if you go to Jiffy Lube, but there isn't much to be done about that except to avoid oil change hacks.
If the stock washer doesn't leak, then how can a copper washer seal better? Half of nothing is still nothing!
If we really wanted to get exotic with oil plug gaskets we could machine the drain plug for an o-ring. We could even knurl the outside and make it out of titanium! That would be kewl!
#33
Originally Posted by peterbilt
.... synthetic wouldn't make a noticable difference. would it?
#34
Senior Member
Fail, INC
Club One
SL Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: What's in your Box...
Posts: 14,929
#35
Way back in 1988, I had an '69 MGB Convertible. One of the best time saving investments I got was a drain plug replacement that had a ball valve on it. All copper construction and I just had to turn a crank on it to drain the oil, kinda like those old timey beer barrel valves.
#36
More DIY questions
(We're hoping my wife's xB comes in next Monday. We'll use the dealer for the first three changes, but then ....)
Are the filter and drain plug easily accessible, or does the car have to be on ramps (which I do have)
Any specific recommendations on filters? Anyone cut open a Toyota OEM, and compared it to a Mobil 1 (or others)?
On my 02 Maxima, there is a filter that has the same threads and gasket placement, but is about three times the volume (more filter surface area, therefore) so I use that instead of the specified model. Any one found something like that?
Can you get the drain plug washers at the auto parts retailers, or is it a Toyota item?
We just got rid of a 1991 Toyota Previa minivan, with 208,000 miles. Dino oil every 5000 miles, and no babying. We expect no less from the xB. This will be our 5th Toyota. 80 Tercel, 81 Tercel sedan, 85 Tercel SR5 4wd, 91 Previa, 06 xB. There's a 99 Honda in there (bought used, still have .. it's our son's) a 95 Dodge Grand Caravan (bleech. got rid of it when we got the Honda) and an 2002 Maxima (my car .. certainly not as roomy in the passenger cabin, but it's got 255 hp, and a 6spd manual!)
Are the filter and drain plug easily accessible, or does the car have to be on ramps (which I do have)
Any specific recommendations on filters? Anyone cut open a Toyota OEM, and compared it to a Mobil 1 (or others)?
On my 02 Maxima, there is a filter that has the same threads and gasket placement, but is about three times the volume (more filter surface area, therefore) so I use that instead of the specified model. Any one found something like that?
Can you get the drain plug washers at the auto parts retailers, or is it a Toyota item?
We just got rid of a 1991 Toyota Previa minivan, with 208,000 miles. Dino oil every 5000 miles, and no babying. We expect no less from the xB. This will be our 5th Toyota. 80 Tercel, 81 Tercel sedan, 85 Tercel SR5 4wd, 91 Previa, 06 xB. There's a 99 Honda in there (bought used, still have .. it's our son's) a 95 Dodge Grand Caravan (bleech. got rid of it when we got the Honda) and an 2002 Maxima (my car .. certainly not as roomy in the passenger cabin, but it's got 255 hp, and a 6spd manual!)
#37
Re: More DIY questions
Originally Posted by ScionSpouse
On my 02 Maxima, there is a filter that has the same threads and gasket placement, but is about three times the volume (more filter surface area, therefore) so I use that instead of the specified model. Any one found something like that?
)
#38
Originally Posted by kzhorse
I just go to Walmart for $12 every 5k miles.
I'm getting to old to craw under the car,Its bad enough what I have to do at work.
Scott
I'm getting to old to craw under the car,Its bad enough what I have to do at work.
Scott
You also get the chance to inspect your car when you do it yourself... Takes 20 minutes, its cheaper and done right....
#39
Re: More DIY questions
Originally Posted by HeathenBrewing
Originally Posted by ScionSpouse
On my 02 Maxima, there is a filter that has the same threads and gasket placement, but is about three times the volume (more filter surface area, therefore) so I use that instead of the specified model. Any one found something like that?
)
Toyotas have a great reliability record... I'm sure the filter is up to the task.. Its only a 1.5L and doesn't need as much surface area to do the job..
#40
I have no fears that the OEM filter isn't adequate. Once the three changes that the dealer provides are finished, however, I won't always have easy access to a Toyota filter.
I just figure that more area is better, and since most filters cost the same (per brand) why not get more surface area.
With the 3.5L engine in the Max, the M-105 is a lot more reassuring than the stock size! :-)
I just figure that more area is better, and since most filters cost the same (per brand) why not get more surface area.
With the 3.5L engine in the Max, the M-105 is a lot more reassuring than the stock size! :-)