changing your own oil...
#41
Originally Posted by ScionSpouse
I have no fears that the OEM filter isn't adequate. Once the three changes that the dealer provides are finished, however, I won't always have easy access to a Toyota filter.
I just figure that more area is better, and since most filters cost the same (per brand) why not get more surface area.
With the 3.5L engine in the Max, the M-105 is a lot more reassuring than the stock size! :-)
I just figure that more area is better, and since most filters cost the same (per brand) why not get more surface area.
With the 3.5L engine in the Max, the M-105 is a lot more reassuring than the stock size! :-)
#42
I haven't done any research yet into alternate filters for our engines, but I've seen extensive research over on maxima.org. There's a sticky there in their maintenance section about oil, filters, etc. People have purchased various filters, cut them apart and checked them out. Generally, the generic filters aren't well constructed, with cheaper filter material and cheaper bypass valves, etc. Some of the bigger name brands aren't very good, either. The Mobil 1 M-105, while not the designated filter for my Max, is well constructed, and much larger than the stock filter, so I just grab that one.
One week and counting to SWMBO's xB. She had to borrow our son's car to drive to work. 49 yr old lady in a black Civic coupe, 5spd, 17s, cat back and spoiler :-)
I think I'm going to get heated seats for her as a Chanukkah present.
One week and counting to SWMBO's xB. She had to borrow our son's car to drive to work. 49 yr old lady in a black Civic coupe, 5spd, 17s, cat back and spoiler :-)
I think I'm going to get heated seats for her as a Chanukkah present.
#47
ive changed oil quite a few times on my parents cars and my friends cars, but i never do changes in the winter cuz its too cold. Now that i have a car, it definitly needs a change and i cant stand how the oil change shops try to rip you off so i choose to do it myself, but i am wondering if there is any difference that i should note when changing oil in 80 degree weather or 40 degree weather? should i do anything different? thanks
#48
Originally Posted by QK5ILVR
ive changed oil quite a few times on my parents cars and my friends cars, but i never do changes in the winter cuz its too cold. Now that i have a car, it definitly needs a change and i cant stand how the oil change shops try to rip you off so i choose to do it myself, but i am wondering if there is any difference that i should note when changing oil in 80 degree weather or 40 degree weather? should i do anything different? thanks
#49
Senior Member
Scikotics
SL Member
Scinergy
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Wilson Scion (IA)
Posts: 2,235
Hmmm, our dealership charges less than $30 for an oil change including tax and all. It's garunteed in less than 29 minutes too.
Check to see if your local dealer offers "Express Lube" service. Hell, it's way worth my time.
Also, addressing that oil filter discussion. There IS a difference and Toyota oil filters WILL be better for your car. In addition, they should be around $5 from the dealership parts department. Remember, you have anywhere from $15-20,000 invested in this car. Don't cheap out on the vehicle's lifeblood. Also, I wouldn't use a longer filter than recommended. Although you get more surface area, you're altering the pressure slightly by raising the volume of the system. Over time that could actually be harmful to the oil pump. Trust me, the factory filter is the best thing on the market for your car no matter what oil you run. Toyota has designed these filters to exceed the requirements of the engine's lubrication system and the longevity of these vehicles is a testiment to that.
-Alex
Check to see if your local dealer offers "Express Lube" service. Hell, it's way worth my time.
Also, addressing that oil filter discussion. There IS a difference and Toyota oil filters WILL be better for your car. In addition, they should be around $5 from the dealership parts department. Remember, you have anywhere from $15-20,000 invested in this car. Don't cheap out on the vehicle's lifeblood. Also, I wouldn't use a longer filter than recommended. Although you get more surface area, you're altering the pressure slightly by raising the volume of the system. Over time that could actually be harmful to the oil pump. Trust me, the factory filter is the best thing on the market for your car no matter what oil you run. Toyota has designed these filters to exceed the requirements of the engine's lubrication system and the longevity of these vehicles is a testiment to that.
-Alex
#50
I havent changed my own oil, yet but am confused about what I will use. I still have 2 free oil changes left and will make sure I use them first.
The guy at Advancedauto parts said that for the first 50,000 I should just use good traditional oil and a reg oil filter. Then switch to Mobile 1. Changing the oil at every 5000.
Then I read on here about the importance of using syn oil. I am thinking I will buy the toyota oil filters and use a good reg oil, changing the oil every 3000. then at 50000 I will switch to syn.
What are the thoughts on this?
The guy at Advancedauto parts said that for the first 50,000 I should just use good traditional oil and a reg oil filter. Then switch to Mobile 1. Changing the oil at every 5000.
Then I read on here about the importance of using syn oil. I am thinking I will buy the toyota oil filters and use a good reg oil, changing the oil every 3000. then at 50000 I will switch to syn.
What are the thoughts on this?
#51
I have been told by an independent oil expert that the oil is a very high quality synthetic that comes in the xB from the factory. The dealer on the other hand may not use such a high quality oil since they don't warrenty the engine the factory does. But anyway you should have been told what the breaking in first oil change should be from the dealer - I was told 3600 miles and have heard more and less depending upon the dealer. The oil will look pretty clean on the dipstick but when you drain it out woooow it will be pretty dark. Don't change it too soon or you will not be breaking in the engine enough. Hot weather is not as bad as winter weather. The engines today in quality cars like these have very good piston seals on the rings so the oil does last a lot longer than in the older cars years ago. Going 5000 on regular is probably ok if you are not racing it all the time but you are better off in the long run to use a good synthetic for a little better gas mileage. When in doubt read the manual that came with your car from the manufacturer.
I got tired of figuring out what to do with the waste oil that I collected from my last car - this time I changed to Synlube for the first oil change and now I don't have to change it again for 150k or 15 years. Only a couple of filter changes at 36k and 75k -crazy huh! They use Sylube on the Moon and Mars rovers and guess why . . . No one is going to the Moon or Mars to do an oil change.
I got tired of figuring out what to do with the waste oil that I collected from my last car - this time I changed to Synlube for the first oil change and now I don't have to change it again for 150k or 15 years. Only a couple of filter changes at 36k and 75k -crazy huh! They use Sylube on the Moon and Mars rovers and guess why . . . No one is going to the Moon or Mars to do an oil change.
#53
@ Tobo: I really wouldn't trust any of those guys at the auto parts stores
@Jan06xB: hmm... see what confuses me is that my dealer is says 5k for my FIRST oil change. That's the normal interval for a dealer change, and sort of what confuses me. I mean, after break-in you should need an "early" oil change, right?
Here's what I'm starting to think: not only are engines manufactured much better so as to reduce the metal shavings and such after break-in, but they're also run at the factory - in effect, Toyota has done most of our "break-in" for us.
What do you think? Regardless, I'm still going to the dealership in about two weeks after finals and buying a filter, and doing my own change. I'm at about 1960 miles now.
I just hope that "special seal" that everyone says is on the oil filter for the first oil change doesn't get in the way of my first oil change.
@Jan06xB: hmm... see what confuses me is that my dealer is says 5k for my FIRST oil change. That's the normal interval for a dealer change, and sort of what confuses me. I mean, after break-in you should need an "early" oil change, right?
Here's what I'm starting to think: not only are engines manufactured much better so as to reduce the metal shavings and such after break-in, but they're also run at the factory - in effect, Toyota has done most of our "break-in" for us.
What do you think? Regardless, I'm still going to the dealership in about two weeks after finals and buying a filter, and doing my own change. I'm at about 1960 miles now.
I just hope that "special seal" that everyone says is on the oil filter for the first oil change doesn't get in the way of my first oil change.
#54
You have a tC which has a more powerful motor than the xB which ends up working pretty hard compared to the tC. I have heard numbers all over the place for the first change - best way to tell is to feel the oil - if it is still slippery then it is still good - if it soaks into your skin and disapears then it is beat. LOL
I did my first and last oil change at 3600 only because I had to wait for an overnight drain to get as much of the Dino oil out before I put the Synlube in - even jacked up the left side to drain the pan better. Now I have 10100 miles and it just keeps running better every time I drive it.
Filters is another story and the Toyota ones are great but I have a more expensive and bigger one that filters 5-8 micron particles and still has high volume oil flow.
Watch out for the Mobile1 oils as they now have several different grades and some require changing sooner.
I did my first and last oil change at 3600 only because I had to wait for an overnight drain to get as much of the Dino oil out before I put the Synlube in - even jacked up the left side to drain the pan better. Now I have 10100 miles and it just keeps running better every time I drive it.
Filters is another story and the Toyota ones are great but I have a more expensive and bigger one that filters 5-8 micron particles and still has high volume oil flow.
Watch out for the Mobile1 oils as they now have several different grades and some require changing sooner.
#56
Engine Lube $32 qt x4 Initial fill
AddOil $20 for topping off when it needs more
Filter was $24
PowerSteering $40
M Tranny $30 I think
Then there were some Neo Magnets for the filter outside. Total was about $265 with a discount for getting all the lubes at once. They have a lot of info at the website including how much you will save over the life of the vehicle compared to regular oil changes plus you get a little better gas mileage which saves a lot more.
www.synlube.com
AddOil $20 for topping off when it needs more
Filter was $24
PowerSteering $40
M Tranny $30 I think
Then there were some Neo Magnets for the filter outside. Total was about $265 with a discount for getting all the lubes at once. They have a lot of info at the website including how much you will save over the life of the vehicle compared to regular oil changes plus you get a little better gas mileage which saves a lot more.
www.synlube.com
#57
So... when you guys talk about filling the oil filter so that car has oil when first started...
what do you mean exactly? How does one do that?
(please feel free to laugh at my lack of car knowledge now... ;))
what do you mean exactly? How does one do that?
(please feel free to laugh at my lack of car knowledge now... ;))
#58
Originally Posted by Gamecat
So... when you guys talk about filling the oil filter so that car has oil when first started...
what do you mean exactly? How does one do that?
(please feel free to laugh at my lack of car knowledge now... ;))
what do you mean exactly? How does one do that?
(please feel free to laugh at my lack of car knowledge now... ;))
#59
noooooo you slowly pour oil into the center hole of the filter where the threads are and keep pouring slowly as the oil passes through the filter element filling the outside of the filter element space until no more oil can go into the filter - should be about 1/3 of a quart then wet the gasket with a light coating of FRESH oil. Clean the bottom of of the oil filter mount where the gasket hits on the engine filter flange with a clean cloth or paper towel without ripping the towel and then without spilling the oil out of the filter carefully screw it onto the engine and tighten according to the instructions - one says half a turn the other says 2/3 of a turn . . . I usually go 2/3 turn.
#60
Originally Posted by Jan06xB
... changed to Synlube for the first oil change and now I don't have to change it again for 150k or 15 years. Only a couple of filter changes at 36k and 75k -crazy huh! They use Sylube on the Moon and Mars rovers and guess why . . . No one is going to the Moon or Mars to do an oil change.