New Toyota oil recommendation
#41
Is 4k miles early
I'm torn. Maybe they did this just to raise the MPG numbers slightly?
I grew up in the "thicker is better" era, so this one is a hard change to make without more info.
Scott
I'm torn. Maybe they did this just to raise the MPG numbers slightly?
I grew up in the "thicker is better" era, so this one is a hard change to make without more info.
Scott
#42
Originally Posted by SciontCya
Is 4k miles early
I'm torn. Maybe they did this just to raise the MPG numbers slightly?
I grew up in the "thicker is better" era, so this one is a hard change to make without more info.
Scott
I'm torn. Maybe they did this just to raise the MPG numbers slightly?
I grew up in the "thicker is better" era, so this one is a hard change to make without more info.
Scott
Oh hell no! I could see the possibility of concern from switching from thick to thinner once you are above…oh I don’t know, 100 - 150K, when clearances are not as tight as they once where, therby increasing the possibility of oil getting to places it shouldn’t. At 4k, I am sure you engine would blow up if you made the switch.
I don’t think they made the switch for MPG reasons….how much of an improvement would you really get vs. the 30?
Could it make starting easier? Doubt it since they both act as a 5W in the cold.
Better lubrication? Its possible. But I would like to read more studies before assuming these motors do not lubricate properly before making the switch myself.
Less cost? Im thinking no, although on a quart per quart basis, the difference is probably so small that it is not worth charging more for thicker oil. Maybe it makes financial sense because of the volume of oil Toyota goes through.
I understand the thicker = better mentality. Im working hard to break out of the old habits, but technology has come a long way in 40 years (last ride was a 64 GMC pickup) and I am now (although not 100%) on the page that says "5w30 is king!"
#43
yeah, i'm interested in the theory of the change. i too grew up with thicker is better. but 5/30 to 5/20?....the difference would seem too insignificant to warrant a TSB. sounds like a new oil vendor to me....jk
research time! (k, not really, i don't care that much).
research time! (k, not really, i don't care that much).
#44
A 5W20 has a LOT fewer 'viscosity exttenders' than a 5W30 oil.
Viscosity extenders keep the viscosity of the oil so it seemss thicker at high temps, but they DO NOT lubricate, and they are also the first thing to break down when the going gets tough. Reducing the percentage of viscosity extenders could easily be one of the major reasons - it allows the oil to lubricate precision parts better, and reduces the energy required to pump a thiker soup past very finely mated surfaces.
Possibly one of the oil company sites oferes up some better insights as to reasons for a change to a lighter, better lubricating oil...
Viscosity extenders keep the viscosity of the oil so it seemss thicker at high temps, but they DO NOT lubricate, and they are also the first thing to break down when the going gets tough. Reducing the percentage of viscosity extenders could easily be one of the major reasons - it allows the oil to lubricate precision parts better, and reduces the energy required to pump a thiker soup past very finely mated surfaces.
Possibly one of the oil company sites oferes up some better insights as to reasons for a change to a lighter, better lubricating oil...
#45
If you do some research on the specs Ford requires of the 5W20's they recommend for their cars, you will learn they are pretty strict.
The new 5W20's are a great way to get the quality of a synthetic oil without the price.
Advanced Auto is selling Pennzoil for $1.68/quart, including the 5W20 oils.
You do have to be careful, because some of the stock on store shelves is not ILSAC GF-4. But it's a pretty darn great oil.
If you check out the Used Oil Analysis threads over at Bobistheoilguy.com, you will see that the 5W20's turn in really good analysis.
Fords and Hondas are not grenading engines on the stuff. I think they've been recommending 5W20 for 4+ years now. I know I changed the oil for my former in-laws Honda CRV and that was probably 4+ years ago. It called for 5W20.
Slightly better fuel economy, better cold weather protection, and possibly even better year round protection due to fewer Viscosity Index improvers needed, plus the tough requirements Ford has spec'ed make me a believer in 5W20 for my tC.
I just picked up 4 cases tonight, so I'm set for the next 10-12 oil changes, LOL
The new 5W20's are a great way to get the quality of a synthetic oil without the price.
Advanced Auto is selling Pennzoil for $1.68/quart, including the 5W20 oils.
You do have to be careful, because some of the stock on store shelves is not ILSAC GF-4. But it's a pretty darn great oil.
If you check out the Used Oil Analysis threads over at Bobistheoilguy.com, you will see that the 5W20's turn in really good analysis.
Fords and Hondas are not grenading engines on the stuff. I think they've been recommending 5W20 for 4+ years now. I know I changed the oil for my former in-laws Honda CRV and that was probably 4+ years ago. It called for 5W20.
Slightly better fuel economy, better cold weather protection, and possibly even better year round protection due to fewer Viscosity Index improvers needed, plus the tough requirements Ford has spec'ed make me a believer in 5W20 for my tC.
I just picked up 4 cases tonight, so I'm set for the next 10-12 oil changes, LOL
#47
Nope.
I run Mobil 1 5W30 in one ride for 6mo or 10K miles, and my girlfriends '02 Camry gets Mobil 1 EP 5W30 at 6 mo or 15K intervals without drama.
I've seen the studies where more wear metals show up in the oil when it is first changed, so I believe you can do oil changes TOO frequently, causing more wear.
I'm changing every 4-5K in the tC to protect the warranty. Once the warranty is up, I'll probably go longer between changes, but not more than 6 months.
I think any modern oil can go 6 months or 5K miles without drama, given the better machined modern engines and computer controlled fuel injection. Seldom do you have engines that wash fuel down the cylinders. The emissions controls just won't let that happen.
Filters filter better as they age. I think that is part of the problem with frequent oil changes and perhaps why some car makes suggested filter changes every other oil change.
I run Mobil 1 5W30 in one ride for 6mo or 10K miles, and my girlfriends '02 Camry gets Mobil 1 EP 5W30 at 6 mo or 15K intervals without drama.
I've seen the studies where more wear metals show up in the oil when it is first changed, so I believe you can do oil changes TOO frequently, causing more wear.
I'm changing every 4-5K in the tC to protect the warranty. Once the warranty is up, I'll probably go longer between changes, but not more than 6 months.
I think any modern oil can go 6 months or 5K miles without drama, given the better machined modern engines and computer controlled fuel injection. Seldom do you have engines that wash fuel down the cylinders. The emissions controls just won't let that happen.
Filters filter better as they age. I think that is part of the problem with frequent oil changes and perhaps why some car makes suggested filter changes every other oil change.
#50
Originally Posted by camys_daddy
I've seen the studies where more wear metals show up in the oil when it is first changed, so I believe you can do oil changes TOO frequently, causing more wear.
Originally Posted by camys_daddy
Filters filter better as they age. I think that is part of the problem with frequent oil changes and perhaps why some car makes suggested filter changes every other oil change.
Flow better, no.
Scott
#51
Reading my factory repair manual for the '94 Geo Prizm I own, it indicates that at higher speeds, your oil pump itself ends up bypassing most of the oil since it pumps far more oil than is needed.
So I suspect that you would have to go a LONG way to completely plug up an oil filter.
That's the purpose of the bypass. To ensure oil still flows. If the filter is completely plugged, it's not going to get filtered, but you will not starve the engine for oil.
Frankly, I doubt most filters changed every 5K to 10K miles are completely plugged.
Engines are much cleaner. If you have chunks of metal floating around, you have problems that a new oil filter will not fix.
And what's with those magnetic drain plugs. Most engines have as much if not more non-ferrous metal. Bearings are brass and lead, pistons are aluminum, the crank is iron and the rings are some allow.
I just gotta laugh at some of the stuff I see people spend their money on, LOL
So I suspect that you would have to go a LONG way to completely plug up an oil filter.
That's the purpose of the bypass. To ensure oil still flows. If the filter is completely plugged, it's not going to get filtered, but you will not starve the engine for oil.
Frankly, I doubt most filters changed every 5K to 10K miles are completely plugged.
Engines are much cleaner. If you have chunks of metal floating around, you have problems that a new oil filter will not fix.
And what's with those magnetic drain plugs. Most engines have as much if not more non-ferrous metal. Bearings are brass and lead, pistons are aluminum, the crank is iron and the rings are some allow.
I just gotta laugh at some of the stuff I see people spend their money on, LOL
#52
Someone run it by me again how frequent oil changes are worse for your car? I was just convinced by another thread that changing oil frequently is better. I also read that the oil should be changed first 500, 1500 and 3000 miles and the whole thread agreed without debate... Seems there is always someone that looks at different "studies" or knows "mechanics" that "know" what their talking about but yet everyone contradicts one another... Can we get some consistency here?
#53
Originally Posted by Menace
...Can we get some consistency here?
Use common sense - there will never be a 100% consensus on oil/filter changes.
Breaking in in something more people agree upon, that's why that thread of 500, 1000, 3000 likely had less arguing.
As for magnetic drain plugs - that one's funny, I agree. There's hardly any ferrous metals in our new engines - maybe there's more in a 'Vette or Viper, but surely not most modern cars.
Scott
#54
Originally Posted by SciontCya
Originally Posted by Menace
...Can we get some consistency here?
I totally agree.
MAybe we can make a compromise by mixing 2 qts 5w30 with 2 qts 5w20. 5w25.....Best of both worlds??
#57
Well, first of all, do you have a 2005 or 2006?
5w20 are supposed to be more "high tech" but 3k for synthetic is way overkill - I know, I do it
There's no real answer - but since Toyota says use 5w20 in the 2006 and up, I think that's your answer.
Scott
***EDIT: I missed your FM crack - use 20w50 you ******!
5w20 are supposed to be more "high tech" but 3k for synthetic is way overkill - I know, I do it
There's no real answer - but since Toyota says use 5w20 in the 2006 and up, I think that's your answer.
Scott
***EDIT: I missed your FM crack - use 20w50 you ******!
#60
For all of you that are asking about oil questions, go to the experts....
www.bobistheoilguy.com
they know more about oil than anyone else I have found here.
www.bobistheoilguy.com
they know more about oil than anyone else I have found here.