Oil Filters..
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Bakersfield, California
Posts: 989
Oil Filters..
Anyone know where to buy oil filters online?
Not only for the tC but for other vehicles as well.
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Not only for the tC but for other vehicles as well.
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Last edited by MR_LUV; 09-07-2021 at 08:14 AM. Reason: Awarded 15 Yr Badge
#4
Originally Posted by hejustlaughs
Invest in the $50 high performance ones. I think they're worth it.
since there have been a lot of posts in teh last two days about oil, does anyone recommend going to synthetic, and have the experience in their tC to prove it? i've heard from one guy already that it pulls harder in teh lower rpm range.
#6
I'm not sure who makes the TRD oil filters, or if they are even
Japanese made (Honda filters are typically Canadian or US made
and not nearly as nice as Japanese made).
I would personally stick with Mobile 1 oil filter, or K&N.
You are paying a bit extra for the name, but the quality is
there too.
I'm looking into buying a 10 pack of Mobile 1 filters if I can find a
good online source with inexpensive shipping costs. I'll post
here if I find something, but I was hoping someone would
already know of a good online store...
Japanese made (Honda filters are typically Canadian or US made
and not nearly as nice as Japanese made).
I would personally stick with Mobile 1 oil filter, or K&N.
You are paying a bit extra for the name, but the quality is
there too.
I'm looking into buying a 10 pack of Mobile 1 filters if I can find a
good online source with inexpensive shipping costs. I'll post
here if I find something, but I was hoping someone would
already know of a good online store...
#10
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Bakersfield, California
Posts: 989
So i have looked online for mobil 1 filters and here are my results.
Autozone.com has the cheapest prices. Cheaper than autobarn and this one other website. Anyone come up with anything? Plus free shipping on orders over 50. Awesome.
Autozone.com has the cheapest prices. Cheaper than autobarn and this one other website. Anyone come up with anything? Plus free shipping on orders over 50. Awesome.
#12
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Bakersfield, California
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Originally Posted by DGTLLVR
I use Mobil1 synthetic fluids and Mobil1 filters exclusively. Autozone is almost always the cheapest, and why pay shipping? Just go to your local store and get them.
#14
Part numbers are
Fram TG4967, XG4967, DG4967, PH4967
Adelco # PF1233
Mobil # M1-103
BOSCH 3311
STP S4967
K&N HP-1003
There is no reason to buy filters online because of free shipping because you will still have to pay sales tax if their is even one store located in your state and wait for them to get to you.
Fram TG4967, XG4967, DG4967, PH4967
Adelco # PF1233
Mobil # M1-103
BOSCH 3311
STP S4967
K&N HP-1003
There is no reason to buy filters online because of free shipping because you will still have to pay sales tax if their is even one store located in your state and wait for them to get to you.
#15
When i went to autozone online, it says
K&N HP-1003 $12.99 PERFORMANCE GOLD
What does that mean? That it's better? I want to switch to synthetic Mobile 1, but wonder if i should use a better Oil Filter like mobile or K&N or the Mobile 1. Any Suggestions?
K&N HP-1003 $12.99 PERFORMANCE GOLD
What does that mean? That it's better? I want to switch to synthetic Mobile 1, but wonder if i should use a better Oil Filter like mobile or K&N or the Mobile 1. Any Suggestions?
#16
Did my oil change today mobil 1 filter and full synthetic its all a little prricy but anything for my baby. Weird thing is all the oil filters that they list are little bit smaller then the one toyota uses
#17
You do not need to use a different filter with synthetic oil, per Mobil1's site their stuff is certified to meet all oil requirements. The better your filter, the longer it will last whether synth or normal oil is used. Just get a good $8-10 filter from autozone with the synthetic oil and you're set. A $3 filter isn't made to last more than 3k-5k, so why chance it if you go with synth anyway.
#19
a super-premium filter which offers ultra-fine filtration will clog up sooner than a filter spec'd to catch dirt as OEM specifies.
If that happens then.. the bypass valve puts unfiltered oil through the engine.
Whatever filter Toyota says meets their specs would be OK. For me the best insurance is to use the genuine OEM filter because the maker has a real, vested interest in its quality control. You're under their warranty.
The best oil filtration? Is to just let the oil settle! All dirt that harms, that of many microns in size, settles out.
Antique cars did not employ oil filtration. That wasn't so very bad, though, until pressure lubrication came into style. The engineers made spaces and traps for the sediment to fall and the -gunk- which old-time straight petroluem oils made, acted like flypaper to catch the grit and lock it down.
Anywho, any oil and filter from a reputable maker should give good, safe service.
The best thing for an engine is to change the oil and filter relatively frequently--- and work clean when you do this work.
Big rigs require lots of oil to fill their sumps. They run -tons of miles- between oil changes. How? Why? Well, the oil change is expensive for one thing. And the -long run nature- of big rigs helps keep the oil -clean of water and acid formation-
The only time your engine really suffers wear is when it's started up and is cold. That first minute or so is when your oil really gets soiled by water vapor forming on the cylinder walls, condensing into the oil supply.
There is no wear-out to engine bearings while the engine is running. There is precious little cylinder bore or ring wear when the engine is running at normal temperature.
Start-up is when almost all wear occurs. Micro-filtration is not much needed to keep an engine long-lived.
Synthetic oils are good but not essential for 100, 200k engine life. Oil changes, however, ARE essential to our little engines in stop and start service. That's what really matters the most.
Synthetic oil is neat becuase it's more oily and contains more "oil" by volume than additives, as are -necessary- in petroleum oil in order to improve the VI to meet 10W-30 specs, etc.
anyone who tries the screwdriver test or wash-your-hands test with the two kinds of oil will see that synthetic certainly is a) oily and be b) harder to soap off your skin or off the garage floor.
hope this is of interest- I gloss over a lot but there's much more information out there on the net, you know.
thnx
If that happens then.. the bypass valve puts unfiltered oil through the engine.
Whatever filter Toyota says meets their specs would be OK. For me the best insurance is to use the genuine OEM filter because the maker has a real, vested interest in its quality control. You're under their warranty.
The best oil filtration? Is to just let the oil settle! All dirt that harms, that of many microns in size, settles out.
Antique cars did not employ oil filtration. That wasn't so very bad, though, until pressure lubrication came into style. The engineers made spaces and traps for the sediment to fall and the -gunk- which old-time straight petroluem oils made, acted like flypaper to catch the grit and lock it down.
Anywho, any oil and filter from a reputable maker should give good, safe service.
The best thing for an engine is to change the oil and filter relatively frequently--- and work clean when you do this work.
Big rigs require lots of oil to fill their sumps. They run -tons of miles- between oil changes. How? Why? Well, the oil change is expensive for one thing. And the -long run nature- of big rigs helps keep the oil -clean of water and acid formation-
The only time your engine really suffers wear is when it's started up and is cold. That first minute or so is when your oil really gets soiled by water vapor forming on the cylinder walls, condensing into the oil supply.
There is no wear-out to engine bearings while the engine is running. There is precious little cylinder bore or ring wear when the engine is running at normal temperature.
Start-up is when almost all wear occurs. Micro-filtration is not much needed to keep an engine long-lived.
Synthetic oils are good but not essential for 100, 200k engine life. Oil changes, however, ARE essential to our little engines in stop and start service. That's what really matters the most.
Synthetic oil is neat becuase it's more oily and contains more "oil" by volume than additives, as are -necessary- in petroleum oil in order to improve the VI to meet 10W-30 specs, etc.
anyone who tries the screwdriver test or wash-your-hands test with the two kinds of oil will see that synthetic certainly is a) oily and be b) harder to soap off your skin or off the garage floor.
hope this is of interest- I gloss over a lot but there's much more information out there on the net, you know.
thnx
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