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Question about oil change (need quick help)

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Old 06-05-2007 | 08:00 AM
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not all oil treatments are garbage. I run the mobil 1 synthetic and lucas oil stabalyzer in synthetic and u can tell a difference the stabalizer not only prevents dry starts but it makes it warm up faster and the car revs more freely. just make sure than you never switch back to any non synthetic oils because the synthetic that would be left in the motor will react like rain x to water it will just repell it and not lube the motor too well. and when people say not to change the oil in 5 thousand miles dont listen to them its ur car and its brand new so take care of it and protect youre investment. and the car takes 4 quarts not three and a half. but i would change that oil asap
Old 06-05-2007 | 08:17 AM
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actually there's nothing wrong with switching from syn. to conventional oil. you just need to flush the motor which is basically just draining the oil, refilling it with regular oil, running it for a little bit and draining it and refilling it again.
Old 06-05-2007 | 06:47 PM
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it aint worth to take the risk when you flush the motor ur not gonna get all the old motor oil out theres oil in between bearings, valves and such that when u mix a non syntec in there it will repell it and therefore make it useless. it just aint worth taking the risk
Old 06-05-2007 | 07:12 PM
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I am sorry.... WHAT?

Please, check your facts. Know the difference between Group II, III, and IV motor oils, and the nature of blending oils and their additives.

Synthetic oil doesn't REPEL anything and they just mix. Sorry, but even M1 synthetics these days are using Group III bases, which is a hydrocracked, conventional oil base stock. Even if you use a Group IV oil, it would still mix.
Old 06-06-2007 | 02:44 AM
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thats exactly what i was going to say. it would just mix, your not putting oil and water together
Old 06-06-2007 | 03:00 AM
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^^^ I would have to agree with ssq and tc princess... it even says you can mix synthetic oil with conventional oil on the bottle, basically making it a Synthetic Blend by doing so (which they also sell).
Old 06-06-2007 | 04:09 AM
  #27  
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Wow, lots of discussions, I like it. Well, I changed my oil again today (another 4qt.), I tried to take off the oil filter with wrench (strap style) that I bought yesterday, but I still couldn't take it off b/c it was hard to fit in that area with my hand, so I ran to autopart shop again and bought the cup style filter remover and it worked just great. Man that was best 5bucks that I've ever spent for my car.
Old 06-06-2007 | 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by -lastsciontc-
Wow, lots of discussions, I like it. Well, I changed my oil again today (another 4qt.), I tried to take off the oil filter with wrench (strap style) that I bought yesterday, but I still couldn't take it off b/c it was hard to fit in that area with my hand, so I ran to autopart shop again and bought the cup style filter remover and it worked just great. Man that was best 5bucks that I've ever spent for my car.
good for you man!!! I told you the oil filter socket would be easiest... now you learned your lesson on tightening the filter too much.
Old 06-06-2007 | 11:05 AM
  #29  
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I usually tighten my filter to "hand tight" plus 1/8 turn with a socket.
Old 06-06-2007 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by scikotictc232
not all oil treatments are garbage. I run the mobil 1 synthetic and lucas oil stabalyzer in synthetic and u can tell a difference the stabalizer not only prevents dry starts but it makes it warm up faster and the car revs more freely.
The Lucas stabilizer is a fine product, but is not needed for engines that are well maintained. If you are concerned w/ dry starts, there is NO motor oil today that is perfect for dry starts AND protects during normal driving. The only ones that come close are the 0w20 and 0w30 oils.


Originally Posted by scikotictc232
just make sure than you never switch back to any non synthetic oils because the synthetic that would be left in the motor will react like rain x to water it will just repell it and not lube the motor too well. and when people say not to change the oil in 5 thousand miles dont listen to them its ur car and its brand new so take care of it and protect youre investment. and the car takes 4 quarts not three and a half. but i would change that oil asap
As already said, mixing non syn and syn together is not harmful. Its called a blend.
Old 06-07-2007 | 07:34 AM
  #31  
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when i was going to school to be a mechanic i asked the same question on why not to switch back and fourth and the instructor told me that it was bad because the atoms of the oul do not mix well and cause them to work against eachother thats the main reason that when u do that ull notice that the motor will get hot quicker and warm up faster. everything i know is from what i have learned through teachers and employers
Old 06-07-2007 | 07:51 AM
  #32  
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Well, there are various causes why people didn't switch between synthetics and conventional oil, such as seal and additive compatibility. I suspect your instructor was refering to additive, instead of oil.

Oil itself is a polymer in liquid state, with concentration below c*. This means the polymers itself won't be interacting with each other much anyways (the natural behavior of polymers with c<c* ). So although the polymer strands between the two are different, they will get along fine.

This is the very basics of polymer engineering, which by the way, is the only category of ChE class that's interesting.
Old 06-07-2007 | 05:25 PM
  #33  
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mmhmm thats weird. but no he was reffering to oil same as my boss thats why i always thought that. thats interesting though. have any of you guys used the luccas synthetic stabalyzer ? ? ? this topic brought a lot of discussion.
Old 06-07-2007 | 09:17 PM
  #34  
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i have heard good things about lucas oil products but i would never put anything in my oil because i wouldn't want to possibly clog up my s/c oil inlet with cleaning particles.
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