Synthetic Power Steering Fluid
#1
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Scion Evolution
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Oahu, Hawaii
Posts: 783
Synthetic Power Steering Fluid
For those who are just obsessed with using synthetic fluids in their car (such as me), has anyone tried using synthetic power steering fluid? Also, what would be the pros/cons of doing this and what would people recommend?
Im already using or soon will be switching to:
-Mobil 1 Synthetic motor oil
-Redline MT-90 Gear Oil
-Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid
Our owners manual suggests ATF Dexron II or III so what products would be recommend? Would products such as Redline D4 ATF or Royal Purple Max ATF be good choices or would Redline Powersteering Fluid or some other Powersteering Fluid be better than ATF?
Im already using or soon will be switching to:
-Mobil 1 Synthetic motor oil
-Redline MT-90 Gear Oil
-Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid
Our owners manual suggests ATF Dexron II or III so what products would be recommend? Would products such as Redline D4 ATF or Royal Purple Max ATF be good choices or would Redline Powersteering Fluid or some other Powersteering Fluid be better than ATF?
#3
Re: Synthetic Power Steering Fluid
Originally Posted by brownbanana
... has anyone tried using synthetic power steering fluid?... what would be the pros/cons of doing this and what would people recommend?...
Im already using or soon will be switching to:
-Mobil 1 Synthetic motor oil
-Redline MT-90 Gear Oil
-Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid
Im already using or soon will be switching to:
-Mobil 1 Synthetic motor oil
-Redline MT-90 Gear Oil
-Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid
I used synth (DOT5) brake fluid in a car and a motorcycle for a few years. The benefit was supposed to be no moisture absorption, so no boiling and loss of firm pedal when hot. I guess that solved a problem for people who raced on 2-year-old soggy DOT3/4 fluid. But I became concerned about another reported problem with DOT5 fluid - moisture would eventually get into the system, not be absorbed, and collect as water drops in the bottom of the calipers, below the bleeder nipples, causing a rust pits. So I reverted to regular fluid and change it every two years as recommended for my humid climate.
#4
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Music City Scions
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: West TN - Land of twisty roads
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I don't see a real need for it on our application. Also unsure how the seals in the pump and rack would react to it. Maybe for something that is heavy duty but not really seeing a need for it on the toaster.
#5
Originally Posted by vintage42
...I became concerned about another reported problem with DOT5 fluid - moisture would eventually get into the system, not be absorbed, and collect as water drops in the bottom of the calipers, below the bleeder nipples, causing a rust pits.... .
Originally Posted by jethro_b
I don't see a real need for it on our application...
Or is because if it does, and goes to the bottom of the brake calipers, the bleeders are at the bottom so the water can be removed?
#6
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: West TN - Land of twisty roads
Posts: 11,808
Originally Posted by vintage42
Originally Posted by vintage42
...I became concerned about another reported problem with DOT5 fluid - moisture would eventually get into the system, not be absorbed, and collect as water drops in the bottom of the calipers, below the bleeder nipples, causing a rust pits.... .
Originally Posted by jethro_b
I don't see a real need for it on our application...
Or is because if it does, and goes to the bottom of the brake calipers, the bleeders are at the bottom so the water can be removed?
I'd just use dot 4 like on my bikes and be done with it. It would take too much work to clean the system of dot 3/4 to ready the system for the dot 5 stuff.
#7
Originally Posted by jethro_b
... I'd just use dot 4 like on my bikes and be done with it. It would take too much work to clean the system of dot 3/4 to ready the system for the dot 5 stuff...
I was never clear on the difference between DOT 3 and 4. I read the two bottles, the difference did not seem important, and I think those two would mix.
#8
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Music City Scions
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: West TN - Land of twisty roads
Posts: 11,808
You're not supposed to mix the 3/4 with the 5 from what I've heard. The difference between the 3 and 4 is that the 4 has a higher boiling point that is why it's recommended for most motorcycles. Mostly for their hydraulic clutch slave cylinders because their proximity to the engine heat.
BTW it's safe to mix the 3 and 4 tho.
BTW it's safe to mix the 3 and 4 tho.
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