XA Hotchkis Sway Bar Install?
#1
XA Hotchkis Sway Bar Install?
My old name was Got_Root, but I lost the password, so now I have to start all over again here.
I have a 2005 Xa.
Anyone else have this problem below?
On my front sway bar install, it seems the brackets that attach to the K Member under the steering rack are a bit too long for the stock bolt holes(possibly due to the larger diameter of the sway bar, but I hope that I didn't fully seat them). I've been searching on the net since about 6 PM tonight and am getting frustrated. Unfortunately, Hotchkis is not open tonight, so I figured I'd ask around here first.
I have a 2005 Xa.
Anyone else have this problem below?
On my front sway bar install, it seems the brackets that attach to the K Member under the steering rack are a bit too long for the stock bolt holes(possibly due to the larger diameter of the sway bar, but I hope that I didn't fully seat them). I've been searching on the net since about 6 PM tonight and am getting frustrated. Unfortunately, Hotchkis is not open tonight, so I figured I'd ask around here first.
#2
Never mind, I figured out a solution.
Take a dremel and slot the openeing on the new brackets about 1/4 inch on each side pointing toward the middle. You HAVE to recreate the original U shape.
Use allen key bolts, Grade 12, M8 sized, 1.25 pitch, and stack a couple washers under the bolt heads.
Everything fits up straight and is tight!
I'm taking a level 1 Autocross school at Fedex field Sunday, and I let everyone know how it drives.
Take a dremel and slot the openeing on the new brackets about 1/4 inch on each side pointing toward the middle. You HAVE to recreate the original U shape.
Use allen key bolts, Grade 12, M8 sized, 1.25 pitch, and stack a couple washers under the bolt heads.
Everything fits up straight and is tight!
I'm taking a level 1 Autocross school at Fedex field Sunday, and I let everyone know how it drives.
#3
Make sure to use the urthene link bushings and you will have one tight *****. Make sure to use at least 2 rear sway bars, they are stackable.
I and a mechanic spent 8 hours under my car installing the bar. It went in ok, but took a lot of wrestling and fighting to get everything to line and bolt up. THe hardest part we encountered was the passenger side clamp to mount the bar tothe K frame. We used 2 universal joints on an air rachett.
I and a mechanic spent 8 hours under my car installing the bar. It went in ok, but took a lot of wrestling and fighting to get everything to line and bolt up. THe hardest part we encountered was the passenger side clamp to mount the bar tothe K frame. We used 2 universal joints on an air rachett.
#4
Yeah, me and my buddy figured out the front. Firstly, after the fact, I got a little more research done and it looks as if Hotchkis sent long rear brackets for the front. I've seen pictures, even on this site, that show a shorter tab on a front bracket for TC's. This caused a fitment problem on the driver side, since the bracket mounts just to the left of the steering box. Having a shorter tab that was properly clipped at the corners would have kept it from butting up against the steering box. Oh, well.
The other problem was simply the size of the bar. When I attached it with the brackets and the included urethane bushings, it looked as if the bolts would not space correctly, which they didn't.
What we wound up doing was getting a dremel and a grinding stone and slotting the bracket closer to the center by about 1/4 inch on each side, allowing the bolts to be closer to stock distance: the curve radius connecting the tabs to the wall of the bracket prevents the bolt from going all the way down. By the time I was done slotting, the hole more closely followed the wall of the bracket. This made the bolts go right into the stock holes on the subframe. This caused another fitment problem, but one that was easily rectified.
Using the stock bolts was no longer an option, as once the bolts get to a certain distance down, the curve of the wall (AGAIN!), kept the socket wrench from going all the way (brackets were free by about 1/4 inch off the subframe). We went to the hardware store and bought grade 12 allen bolts. Sinec they were round and not hex, they fit the new slot perfectly. Added some washers to the mix, and now the sway bar is snug.
Now the only thing is, the OEM bolts go from M8, down to M6 at the tip. I believe, since they are threaded all the way, that there is another threaded receiver for the smaller portion. This payday, I'm getting a tap and die set to recreate that graduated taper on the allen bolts, which should allow me to improve the design of the sway bar brackets.
I just took the WDCR Level 1 autocross school this weekend. That sway bar ROCKS! Even with my BFG GFORCE Sports being on their last leg, I think I posted the fastest times over a couple porsches a GTO and a smattering of other cars (Except for the pro built Honda Civic!).
The other problem was simply the size of the bar. When I attached it with the brackets and the included urethane bushings, it looked as if the bolts would not space correctly, which they didn't.
What we wound up doing was getting a dremel and a grinding stone and slotting the bracket closer to the center by about 1/4 inch on each side, allowing the bolts to be closer to stock distance: the curve radius connecting the tabs to the wall of the bracket prevents the bolt from going all the way down. By the time I was done slotting, the hole more closely followed the wall of the bracket. This made the bolts go right into the stock holes on the subframe. This caused another fitment problem, but one that was easily rectified.
Using the stock bolts was no longer an option, as once the bolts get to a certain distance down, the curve of the wall (AGAIN!), kept the socket wrench from going all the way (brackets were free by about 1/4 inch off the subframe). We went to the hardware store and bought grade 12 allen bolts. Sinec they were round and not hex, they fit the new slot perfectly. Added some washers to the mix, and now the sway bar is snug.
Now the only thing is, the OEM bolts go from M8, down to M6 at the tip. I believe, since they are threaded all the way, that there is another threaded receiver for the smaller portion. This payday, I'm getting a tap and die set to recreate that graduated taper on the allen bolts, which should allow me to improve the design of the sway bar brackets.
I just took the WDCR Level 1 autocross school this weekend. That sway bar ROCKS! Even with my BFG GFORCE Sports being on their last leg, I think I posted the fastest times over a couple porsches a GTO and a smattering of other cars (Except for the pro built Honda Civic!).
#5
I had an 06 and we did no grinding or anything to make it fit. Man, that was one huge bar and it was untwistable. I did the urthene upgrade with grade 8 bolts and actually broke a bolt on an off ramp. I use to take those at highway speeds and roll down to the surface street speeds. I never autocrossed as I assumd I would look like a fool with such a small car and low hp.
Next you need to lower it. I had eibach prosport springs. A little harsh, but man, I was velcroed to the road.
Next you need to lower it. I had eibach prosport springs. A little harsh, but man, I was velcroed to the road.
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