LMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

u know its true lmao.

 

Help me.... I am still being kidnapped by my job and it sucks !!!!

I am the only one here and everyone else is sick (cough) (cough)

I have the ssssslowest tc...oh yeah !!!

 

thank god the tc brakes gr8 cause i almost rear-ended some1 tonightafter work!!!

 

Ok so I spoke to the mechanic who put the header in an he shared a concern. Apprently, the bolts that bolt together the s-pipe and the header (spring loaded bolts) don't have a little neck on them and must be tightened until the springs are compltely compressed. However, this means that the exhaust at that point can not flex at all. So he told me that whenever I get on it all the pressure is being exerted on the header because the exhaust can not flex.
The solution isn't as simple as switching the bolts though, because the way the header is designed it woudn't be a tight fit and there would be an exhaust leak. He said that in order to fix it I would have to take the car to an exhaust shop and have them weld something to something (he told me but i forgot) so that the exhaust could flex at the downpipe.
Anyone know about this?

 

5th sounds good, lmk

 

Glad your fine bro.

I almost get hit every week on i-95.

Gotta watch out for those female drivers

I have yet to almost be hit my a male driver.

 

Oh I know what your talking about. Well what he said about the flexing is true. The bolts that were on the catback pipes originally had springs on them, that compress/expand from the engine movement. Right now I don't have those installed on my catback. Just a regular Bolts and Nuts, so the Header is taking the grunt of all the vibrations. I haven't had any problems with any leaks on the catback or on the header to engine side, yet. I did notice that the catback vibrates a lot more, since the bolt + nut combo makes it stiffer. You can run the car that way, w/o a problem. I've been running like this for the past 10k miles.

After I installed the ingalls stiffy, it was better =)
Less engine movement = less header movement = less catback movement = more movement inside the car though, since the engine is held on really tight to the chassis.

If you definitely need to get the spring loaded bolts for your application, you are gonna have to go to an exhaust shop, so they can weld flanges of some sort.

Regarding the leak you could try doubling up on the gaskets and use hi-temp gasket maker/sealer. If you want to go extreme. You can try those + those hi-temp exhaust bandages at autozone/pepboys. There good for catback stuff, but horrible for anything near the manifold.

Trust me, I know about leaks

 

huh ^^ weld flanges..double gaskets...uh no..

if you have some leaks bro on the mmw header what your going to need to do is just adjust the spipe's rotation to ease fitment. yes the stock bolts they come with kinda sucks but you can upgrade them from autozone (3-5 bucks) for new ones with no neck to tighten the bolts as much as they can go. or get longer springs.

as far as leaks in the spipe to midpipe.. 1 gasket is all u need the stock one is fine.. i suggest you just use hi temp copper sealer 500+ degree temp and spreading it on both sides of the gasket like peanut butter... then sandwich it inbetween the spipe and mid pipe.. let it cure.. and your good to go.. for added leak protection you can also spread more sealent were the flanges meet aftwards to plug up any gaps caused by the flange and sealents thickness...

that will do it...

 

The only reason I mentioned double gasket is because some other people had success with it, lol. They had a big gap between pipes though.

The hi-temp copper pete mentioned is the best stuff i've used so far though.

I remember when I took off the stock exhaust, all the gaskets were messed up =(

 

So the header is in and working after a hell of a scare on the way home. As i jumped on the freeway the temps went all the way past Hot. I shut off the car and let it cool. It didn't do it again though.,...I took it back to the guy and he said that he had drove it for about a half hour and it didnt happen but that there might have been a air pocket that caused the o2 sensor to think the car was overheating.

Now the car went from sounding really nice to reallyyyyyyy bad lol. I think im gona through the stock exhaust back on it until i can afford the other one because it sounds prety embaressing. The top end feels great although I do miss that low end torque. Thats part of what really made the car fun to drive on a daily basis. So about 650 dollars later is it realy worth the header? I havent exactly decided yet.

Oh and i almost forgot to mention, even with the exhaus wrap on that header gets extremely hot. Im gona have to wrap that s/c rod in something to repel the heat and keep it cool.

 

The only thing better than exhaust wrap, would be to ceramic coat it.

 

1. when ever you add a header to a car its going to sound a little bad when its placed with an aftermarket exhuast.....if you go back to stock it will sound better.

2. who wrapped your header and whats it wrapped it..and post a pic if u can.. the header should be a tad touchable.. if its not then it might be wrapped wrong or the material you used might not be good enough.

3. the loss of TQ if normal when adding any header.. to gain some of it back.. (which is what im working on) is redoing the mmw spipe to a 2.25 instead of 2.5..pipe.. that should help out...

why did they take out the radiator? thats a bit much... im hoping to install it was not 650....

 

Im taking all comers in the land of the TC !!!

Pete im coming after you...I said goodbye to my car...
hope it makes it there in one piece and a rental...

Guess what...


Pimpin a yaris playa from the himalaya !!!

bow down to the 105 lawnmower killa' !!

 

OMG they gave u a yaris hahaha.... dam thats a low blow joseph

 

I wrapped the header up and its still gettin really hot. I followed the directions, i soaked the DEI wrap, and then wrapped it tightly using a 1/4 overlay and clamped it with the ties.

The 650 was between the header/sp-pipe & install

If making the s-pipe smaller really helps id be interested in that!

 

im making a custom spipe with 2nd o2 sensor for a wideband and a diameter of 2.25 instead of the stock mmw 2.5.. i should be able to pick up some TQ back..at the same time...ill be doing the exhuast mid pipe also... 2.25 all the way to the axleback.... im debating on using or which resonator to use... vibrant, magnaflow, or other..

 

Im gona be at the meet on wed. ( if we're having one) so we can take a look at the wrap

 

hey pete.. you down for the 5th?

 

oh and the pillar that i got for the guages blows, anyone know where i can buy a good one?