tC -> FR-S.....and I am back!
#202
#203
#206
I was going to lunch today and was like WHOAAA It's that bright even in SUN LIGHT
I'll try to remember my camera.
wait a sec, which lights off? the fog leds or the headlights?
If you're talking about leds off then you cant really see them because you have to be pretty far away to see the strips since its so low. and when you're that far away you cant really see the strip itself that much
I'll try to remember my camera.
wait a sec, which lights off? the fog leds or the headlights?
If you're talking about leds off then you cant really see them because you have to be pretty far away to see the strips since its so low. and when you're that far away you cant really see the strip itself that much
#207
oh ya know
Flat Black high temp paints got bad reviews so I went with the gloss one, it still looks good but im gonna try paining it flat black over this aka having the gloss as primer
Flat Black high temp paints got bad reviews so I went with the gloss one, it still looks good but im gonna try paining it flat black over this aka having the gloss as primer
#211
i'm new to high temp painting...
Last edited by KidJustin; 07-12-2011 at 05:56 PM.
#215
Scion Meet
Ted's and mine tCs
Ted's thread: https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=194249
The only 2 tCs with SCION rear emblems debadged so far...
Ted's thread: https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=194249
The only 2 tCs with SCION rear emblems debadged so far...
Last edited by Scion202; 07-13-2011 at 07:29 AM.
#216
3rd in the series of bad DIYs
LED Turn Signals Without HyperFlashing DIY#3
Here is the LED vs Stock Bulb.
LED on right of course
If you want to swap your stock bulbs with any 7440 LED then you will run into hyper flashing problem that looks like this:
In order to fool the relay, you have to be able to simulate the stock bulb.
Stock bulb is roughly 22watts which draws ~2Amps of current
Most high powered LEDs will not draw any more than 0.2 Amps.....
Soooo
You have to use a resistor!
The resistor will have to be placed in parallel with the LED and draw ~2Amps
In order to draw 2 Amps you need a 6 ohm resistor. (Voltage = Current x Resistance)
Im not going to go into details that you dont really need to know...
Things you'll need:
2 LEDs
2 6-Ohm resistors rated for 50 watts or higher
(http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...dresistor.html)
2 wire splicers - Actually....NO! i was hyperflashing because the connection wasnt reliable so I soldered in the wires
Wires
Metal Zip-ties
Aluminum Heat Sink (recommended)
AND LOTTA LOTTA PATIENCE! THIS TAKES TOO LONG FOR SOMETHING SO SIMPLE, IMO THIS IS THE LEAST REWARDING MOD
The Resistor MUST be mounted to a sanded surface or a heatsink. No resistor by itself is rated for more than ~10watts. All high powered resistors are assumed to be mounted on a heat sink and it never get mentioned! A 50W resistor by itself will handle no more 3-5Watts. If heatsink is not used then the resistor can break down at any moment. It can result in a short circuit or a micro rapture from the inside. I understand that in most applications a turn signal will not be on for more than 5-10 seconds which will not get the resistor overly hot but over time it could still fail. Having the hazard lights on is primary reason for this precaution.
To give you some Idea: After 10-15 min of having hazards on, the temp of my resistor was 180 degrees F and the heat sink it is on was 120.
If you dedicated enough then keep reading...
Step1
Splice into the Positive lead on the socket only.
Step2
Find a location to mount the resistor. I picked the front bumper.
Step3
Sand the flat surface that the resistor will be touching or mount it to an aluminum heat sink.
(My friend had random aluminum heatsink around his house so I used em)
Step4
Connect the Resistor in parallel with the socket
-positive from the socket to one end of the resistor
-another end of the resistor can be grounded to anything on a car
Step5
Turn on and make sure that no hyper flashing is occurring
Step6
Mount the Resistor with metal zip ties to a chassis or the aluminum heat sink to a chassis.
other side:
Video of completed set up:
If you aren't discouraged to do the rears then YOU NEED TO GET A LIFE
YOU'RE DONE!
Here is the LED vs Stock Bulb.
LED on right of course
If you want to swap your stock bulbs with any 7440 LED then you will run into hyper flashing problem that looks like this:
In order to fool the relay, you have to be able to simulate the stock bulb.
Stock bulb is roughly 22watts which draws ~2Amps of current
Most high powered LEDs will not draw any more than 0.2 Amps.....
Soooo
You have to use a resistor!
The resistor will have to be placed in parallel with the LED and draw ~2Amps
In order to draw 2 Amps you need a 6 ohm resistor. (Voltage = Current x Resistance)
Im not going to go into details that you dont really need to know...
Things you'll need:
2 LEDs
2 6-Ohm resistors rated for 50 watts or higher
(http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...dresistor.html)
2 wire splicers - Actually....NO! i was hyperflashing because the connection wasnt reliable so I soldered in the wires
Wires
Metal Zip-ties
Aluminum Heat Sink (recommended)
AND LOTTA LOTTA PATIENCE! THIS TAKES TOO LONG FOR SOMETHING SO SIMPLE, IMO THIS IS THE LEAST REWARDING MOD
The Resistor MUST be mounted to a sanded surface or a heatsink. No resistor by itself is rated for more than ~10watts. All high powered resistors are assumed to be mounted on a heat sink and it never get mentioned! A 50W resistor by itself will handle no more 3-5Watts. If heatsink is not used then the resistor can break down at any moment. It can result in a short circuit or a micro rapture from the inside. I understand that in most applications a turn signal will not be on for more than 5-10 seconds which will not get the resistor overly hot but over time it could still fail. Having the hazard lights on is primary reason for this precaution.
To give you some Idea: After 10-15 min of having hazards on, the temp of my resistor was 180 degrees F and the heat sink it is on was 120.
If you dedicated enough then keep reading...
Step1
Splice into the Positive lead on the socket only.
Step2
Find a location to mount the resistor. I picked the front bumper.
Step3
Sand the flat surface that the resistor will be touching or mount it to an aluminum heat sink.
(My friend had random aluminum heatsink around his house so I used em)
Step4
Connect the Resistor in parallel with the socket
-positive from the socket to one end of the resistor
-another end of the resistor can be grounded to anything on a car
Step5
Turn on and make sure that no hyper flashing is occurring
Step6
Mount the Resistor with metal zip ties to a chassis or the aluminum heat sink to a chassis.
other side:
Video of completed set up:
If you aren't discouraged to do the rears then YOU NEED TO GET A LIFE
YOU'RE DONE!
Last edited by Scion202; 08-01-2011 at 05:32 AM.
#217
besides looking crazy are there any draw backs to just letting the led's hyper flash? does it mess anything up? just asking because a friend of mine wo also has a tc2 replaced his oem bulbs with led and he thinks that hyperflashing is super cool......lmao
#218
It's annoying relay clicking and blinking ugh.
No nothing "bad" in hyper flashing it's just like a warning that a light is out.
However you could possible reduce the life of a relay from ~20 years to like 10-15 years [assuming it's used couple mins a day]
#219
I was going to lunch today and was like WHOAAA It's that bright even in SUN LIGHT
I'll try to remember my camera.
wait a sec, which lights off? the fog leds or the headlights?
If you're talking about leds off then you cant really see them because you have to be pretty far away to see the strips since its so low. and when you're that far away you cant really see the strip itself that much
I'll try to remember my camera.
wait a sec, which lights off? the fog leds or the headlights?
If you're talking about leds off then you cant really see them because you have to be pretty far away to see the strips since its so low. and when you're that far away you cant really see the strip itself that much