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Old 10-05-2010 | 12:19 AM
  #5521  
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100% real daily drivin street sweeper lol
Old 10-05-2010 | 12:20 AM
  #5522  
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if it is real... which idk if it is, that ____ is baller!
Old 10-05-2010 | 12:28 AM
  #5523  
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Its real ill take a pic of the huge dents in my fart can if you would like lol
Old 10-05-2010 | 12:33 AM
  #5524  
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Aj,

Amazing stance man
Old 10-05-2010 | 12:37 AM
  #5525  
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what did you do to the racelands to get them that low?
Old 10-05-2010 | 12:38 AM
  #5526  
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Originally Posted by greenbean24
Aj,

Amazing stance man


Thank you. Need to redo my exaust though! Scrapes way to much lol.
Old 10-05-2010 | 12:40 AM
  #5527  
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Originally Posted by yellowxhoodie
what did you do to the racelands to get them that low?

Took out a perch front and back and lowered them all the way down.
Old 10-09-2010 | 06:11 PM
  #5528  
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hey guys want to get car lower was wondering how to get my car lower tires are 215/40/18 wheels are 18x9.5 thanks for the help.
Old 10-09-2010 | 06:15 PM
  #5529  
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I believe my car qualifies now. haha. I will take new pics later 2day, just wanted to submit my pic.Name:  AA_3-1.jpg
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Old 10-09-2010 | 06:22 PM
  #5530  
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Originally Posted by domoboiz
hey guys want to get car lower was wondering how to get my car lower tires are 215/40/18 wheels are 18x9.5 thanks for the help.
Cut your springs bro and put sandbags in the trunk
Old 10-09-2010 | 06:29 PM
  #5531  
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Originally Posted by domoboiz
hey guys want to get car lower was wondering how to get my car lower tires are 215/40/18 wheels are 18x9.5 thanks for the help.
Originally Posted by iheartzombies
Cut your springs bro and put sandbags in the trunk
Old 10-09-2010 | 06:35 PM
  #5532  
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Originally Posted by domoboiz
hey guys want to get car lower was wondering how to get my car lower tires are 215/40/18 wheels are 18x9.5 thanks for the help.
I thought you had coilovers?
Old 10-09-2010 | 06:51 PM
  #5533  
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I believe he does. He's on TRDs. They can go much lower than he is now. I think his question is more on the lines of "what do I need to do so that I don't rub like Aladdin?" But I can't help him there. I don't know much about 10" wide wheels but I'd assume that you'd have to stretch tires, negative camber, roll the fenders, mod the liners.... etc. Whatever works.

I absolutely love that "Let's Bounce" T-Shirt!!!

Speaking of TRD coilovers - I can't get mine to go any lower in the front passenger side and it's driving me crazy. I've seen TRD coilovers go super-lower but I'm maxed out on that side. Can an install error cause this?
Old 10-09-2010 | 07:17 PM
  #5534  
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Ah. Well rolling/flaring fenders, camber, and shaving plastic is about all he can do. Any narrower a tire would be crazy.

As far as install error goes, I always hear about people not setting the pre-load properly. I'm not entirely sure what that entails but usually the end result is a little more low.
Old 10-10-2010 | 01:44 AM
  #5535  
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I've seen that around the internets, too. I don't quite know what it means to pre-load or how to do it.
Old 10-10-2010 | 02:07 AM
  #5536  
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*not my info.*

There are 2 kinds of springs. Progressive, and Linear.

With progressive springs, as they compress the lighter rate coils compress, and force higher rate colis into action. Effectively increasing spring rate as they are compressed. Stock 240sx springs are progressive. (most stock springs are.) This type of spring is good for street driving b/c they are comfortable over small bumps, but tighten up as you start turning, or braking harder.

Linear springs are the same spring rate no matter how much they are compressed. Almost all coilover systems come with linear rate springs. Linear springs are much better for sport driving, b/c they are much mroe predictable, and make tuning your suspension much easier.

You can only preload springs with threaded shock body coilovers.

To preload a spring, you compress it b/w the upper and lower spring perches by adjusting the lower collar with the spanner wrench.

With linear springs:
When you put the weight of a corner of a car (probably around 700lbs) over your spring it compresses to absorb that weight. With 400lb spring, it will compress about 1 3/4". So, if you start with the lower collar so that it is just tight enough to hold the top of the spring against the upper perch this would be 0 preload. Raise the collar 1 3/4", and you now have 700lb's of preload. (arbitrary #'s for the sake of illustration.) Since you have preloaded the spring, the same weight as the car's corner, when you put the car on that spring, it will not compress at all, and will simply sit on top of the spring. If you were to hit a bump, the force would still compress the spring the same amount it normally would if you had set the spring to 0 preload. Now if you set the spring to say 900lbs of preload, when you hit the bump (say its a bump that generates around 250lbs of upward force), the spring will compress much less b/c the spring is already beyond the load specified to absorb the bump. Since there is only 50lbs beyond the preload, the spring will only compress about 1/8th inch, and the car will likely be launched over the bump.

You will likely never ever preload a spring beyond the weight of the corner of the car it is on for that exact reason. Springs are there to absorb bumps, if there are any bumps at all, this is a bad idea.

What good is preloading the spring then?

It can provide you with more suspension travel in certain situations. In the ideal world, having the spring at 0 preload would place the piston inside the shock exactly halfway through it's stroke (middle of shock) once the car's weight is resting on the spring. This is almost never the case. by preloading the spring, you can adjust the amount of rebound, or compression travel you have in the shock. If you preload like 200lbs, this will give you more compression travel, and will help keep your car from bottoming out when cornering. You have to be careful though, b/c you don't want to sacrifice too much rebound travel, or you could cause all sorts of other problems.

Progressive springs:
With progressive springs, preloading the spring does all the same things as linear springs, but it also increases the initial rate of the spring. So say you have a spring with a 200lb/in initial rate, and a 400lb/in max rate. (all progressive springs are rated this way.) Preloading 200lb's will compress the spring just under 1". Since the rate goes up with a function, it will have increased to probably somewhere around 250lb/in by the time you reach a 200lb preload. So now your initial rate is 250lb/in, with a max 0f 400lb/in.

You will likely never deal with this though, b/c very few coilover systems come with progressive springs, and remember you can't preload without adjustable spring perches. (coilovers)
Old 10-10-2010 | 02:24 AM
  #5537  
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Thanks, Cory. Im not sure how this applies to the TRD/Progress coilovers as they only have one perch/collar. I can raise the collar and set the spring so that it won't move when installing the coilovers but as soon as I jack the car up the spring will be free again. Hmm...

You've seen o8tc's tC in person. That thing was dumped. I'd love to figure out where I went wrong or whats keeping it from the full drop.
Old 10-10-2010 | 02:30 AM
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not really sure what Ricky did, i thought he just had them set all the way down
Old 10-10-2010 | 03:13 AM
  #5539  
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^ thats most likely all it was. I'm guessing it's my user error. :shrug:
Old 10-10-2010 | 06:13 AM
  #5540  
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I don't think one can exactly purposely add pre-load on TRD coilovers, due to it's design. Now a design like Stance and B&G you can add pre-load as the height adjustment is separate from it.

Example of pre-load setup for BC(Bor-Chuan) Coilovers(for the visual learners)
http://www.infinitiscene.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=9486

Or you can do this

http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?p=4497800

Last edited by dropzone; 10-10-2010 at 07:25 AM.



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