Slow_Racer

during the install do u really have to bondo the kit to the car cause looking at some pics it looks like the fenders are screwed in or rivited in and some have the fenders flush with the car.

tC9o9

you dont have to bondo it, you can leave them as is.. they will be "riveted" in though

you can however get it molded and make it look alot better..

Slow_Racer

awesome! thanks for the quick reply :D oh and do you know if it comes primered or a flat white, idk

tC9o9

no problem

also, i have looked into that kit NUMEROUS amounts of times, but the fitment is HORRIBLE, i wouldnt get it until the flex fiber kit comes out.

Slow_Racer

really? thanks for the heads up ill wait on getting this then.
btw do you or anyone know when the fiber flex ver. comes out?

tC9o9

this summer

krazykustomz

The fitment of the kit is not horrible. The main issue on that kit is a gap between the rear flare and side skirt on the driver side. We dropped the price down from $1200 when we released it to it's current $899 msrp. We have the kit on sale now at $819 and run 1 on ebay every week.

The flex fiber kit is gonna be around $1400 when it does come out. We retooled the flex fiber version last summer and just waiting for production versions to arrive from that factory.

Here are the pics of the install we did for Kreative Import Technology on their SEMA car. Me and my partner did that car in just 6 days from start to finish including paint.

Install Photos
http://krazykustomzonline.com/galler...&g2_itemId=473

The fenders must be cut out so you can push the wheels out to meet the new stance. The flex fiber version will be the same way but the gap on the driver side will be gone and the finish of the fiberglass will be better. It will still be a professional installation required job. You don't just bolt on a widebody kit that adds a good 5-6" of overall width to the car. I would not want a widebody kit just bolted on a brand new car either. If you want a show quality job you really need to mold the skirts and the flares. Even Neil's car which was originally done with the riveted look was redone and molded last year for the SEMA show.

When a kit is installed properly it will be durable and you should have no issues with the body work cracking on the flares or sides. I do not suggest molding any front bumper though as it will crack when you scrape the bottom of the bumper from bottoming out. There are so many myths out there about molding kits and people think you just slap some bondo on there. There are professional products out there specifically made for molding fiberglass to metal. We have been building show cars for years now from wide body cougars, to custom scions, hondas, integras, expeditions, avalanches you name it. If the body work is done right it will be a beutiful car when finished and will be a car you can drive.

Here is the red one redone


Here are the sponsored cars we worked with
http://krazykustomzonline.com/galler...g2_itemId=5031

Here are the magazines they were featured in
http://krazykustomzonline.com/galler...g2_itemId=5028

There are over 100 of these kits out there now and selling at a rate of 20 per month currently.

As of right now we have 4 in stock with more on the way.

tC9o9

cut the fenders wha?

im lookin into this so i dont have to fix my body damage, but is it alot to cut it?

krazykustomz

This kit has typically cost the customers about $1500-$2,000 in body labor to cut the fenders out and weld that up and weatherproof it, mold the flares and sideskirts, prep all the fiberglass pieces and do all the work to get the car ready for paint.

The paint bill is gonna vary depending on the level of paint used on the car most guys have done custom colors, pearls, kandys etc. The paint labor also will vary if the whole car is getting painted or if it is a 2 tone etc.

Most customers have come out in the neighborhood of $2500-$3500 for the complete job.

On something like this it is best to source a shop that specializes in custom work, fiberglass, body kits, etc that will know how to do the job properly and understand what you need to put into the job for a show quality job. A collision shop would be the worst place for a job like this because they work on strict time schedules and expect parts to install as oem parts do. That is just not the case with most body kits.

This kit is not for the casual guy looking to add a body kit to his car. This is more for the die hard enthusiast that really is into the show car scene and modifying cars.

Every single tC owner I have spoken with that has one of these kits finished has won most if not all of the car shows they entered in their class.

tC9o9

its a really really sick kit when molded on, but if i ever wanna go back to stock I CANT.. and the fact that its molded on, cant it start cracking?

sorry to bother you, just gettin the basics before i buy

krazykustomz

It can crack if not done properly. But going back to stock is not an option. The kaminari urethane kit would be your best option if that is the route you want to go with returning the car to stock when you get rid of it someday.

Slow_Racer

so to say this is not like any "bolt on" slap on body kit. so you still got to mold the kit to the car. is no way around that?

tC9o9

you dont have to mold it on... you can tack it on like some do

molding looks better