Small Scratch Repair DIY (mp4 and wmv videos added)
08-11-2007, 01:41 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Small Scratch Repair DIY (mp4 and wmv videos added)
Just an FYI for anyone wanting to do small scratch repair. I have read the procedure before but was always hesitant to try it since it involved sanding the finish. These steps apply mostly to dark colored finishes, like my Flint Mica. The type of scratches I am referring to are easily seen on a dark colored car and probably not detectable on the lighter colors. You can still use this procedure on light colored cars.
I do not pretend to be an expert on this. This is just something I read, decided to try and it works. I take no responsibility if you decide to do this and do not get the desired results.
GET 20MB MP4 Higher Quality VIDEO HERE
GET 10MB WMV Lower Quality VIDEO HERE
You will need the following items.
1. Sheet of 1500 grit automotive wet sandpaper
2. Pencil with eraser (you will be using the eraser end)
3. Contact cement or superglue
4. Palmolive dishwashing detergent or like
5. Terry Cloth Towel or like (something soft)
6. Applicator sponge
7. Meguiar's SCRATCH X or like (rubbing compound)
8. Your choice of car wax
9. Small container with a little water
Steps
1. Make sure the area to be repaired is clean. You don't want to be sanding over dust and dirt particles.
2. Cut a small piece of 1500 grit so that it fits on the end of the pencil eraser and glue it into place. This will be the sanding tool.
3. In a small container put just a little water and a few drops of dishwashing detergent.. This part is not that critical. You just want to give the water a slick feel.
4. Use your finger and dap a some of the soapy water onto the scratch and then dip the eraser end with sandpaper into the water.
5. Using the eraser end with wet sandpaper, start at one end of the scratch and sand back and forth across the scratch, working your way to the other end of the scratch. Keep the sanded area to a minimum. Wet the sandpaper several times during this process.
6. Once you have reached the other end, take the terry cloth towel and dry the area. Don't Panic.. the finish is going to look dull like someone sanded it because guess what... you just sanded it. Look closely and see if you can still see the scratch. If you can then go back to step 5 and repeat. Once you cannot see the scratch move on to the next step.
7. With the area sanded and dry, looking all dull and ruined, put a few drops of the rubbing compound on the applicator sponge. Rub back and forth on the repair area, adding more rubbing compound as it starts to diminish. Do not be afraid to use moderate pressure.
8. Use the terry cloth again and wipe compound away and dull area will either be improved or completely gone. If its still apparent just go through step 7 again.
9. Wax the repaired area. Even before waxing the repaired area will have a showroom shine but you need to replace the protection that was removed during the process.
The result will be no scratch with an undetectable repair. Again this is not for deep scratches like a hard key job down the side. These are for scratches usually found around the exterior handle caused by keys swinging against the car because you opened the door using the same hand you are holding your keys in or someone leaning against the car and something metal on their clothing like a zipper or rivet on jeans scratched the finish.
I will be making a video of the process and posting it once a new scratch presents itself... and it will. Also I live in Huntington Beach so if you are local and want to see the process in person just drop me a PM.
Excuse any typos or completely missed words. I type faster than I think and frequently leave out words in a sentence.
I do not pretend to be an expert on this. This is just something I read, decided to try and it works. I take no responsibility if you decide to do this and do not get the desired results.
GET 20MB MP4 Higher Quality VIDEO HERE
GET 10MB WMV Lower Quality VIDEO HERE
You will need the following items.
1. Sheet of 1500 grit automotive wet sandpaper
2. Pencil with eraser (you will be using the eraser end)
3. Contact cement or superglue
4. Palmolive dishwashing detergent or like
5. Terry Cloth Towel or like (something soft)
6. Applicator sponge
7. Meguiar's SCRATCH X or like (rubbing compound)
8. Your choice of car wax
9. Small container with a little water
Steps
1. Make sure the area to be repaired is clean. You don't want to be sanding over dust and dirt particles.
2. Cut a small piece of 1500 grit so that it fits on the end of the pencil eraser and glue it into place. This will be the sanding tool.
3. In a small container put just a little water and a few drops of dishwashing detergent.. This part is not that critical. You just want to give the water a slick feel.
4. Use your finger and dap a some of the soapy water onto the scratch and then dip the eraser end with sandpaper into the water.
5. Using the eraser end with wet sandpaper, start at one end of the scratch and sand back and forth across the scratch, working your way to the other end of the scratch. Keep the sanded area to a minimum. Wet the sandpaper several times during this process.
6. Once you have reached the other end, take the terry cloth towel and dry the area. Don't Panic.. the finish is going to look dull like someone sanded it because guess what... you just sanded it. Look closely and see if you can still see the scratch. If you can then go back to step 5 and repeat. Once you cannot see the scratch move on to the next step.
7. With the area sanded and dry, looking all dull and ruined, put a few drops of the rubbing compound on the applicator sponge. Rub back and forth on the repair area, adding more rubbing compound as it starts to diminish. Do not be afraid to use moderate pressure.
8. Use the terry cloth again and wipe compound away and dull area will either be improved or completely gone. If its still apparent just go through step 7 again.
9. Wax the repaired area. Even before waxing the repaired area will have a showroom shine but you need to replace the protection that was removed during the process.
The result will be no scratch with an undetectable repair. Again this is not for deep scratches like a hard key job down the side. These are for scratches usually found around the exterior handle caused by keys swinging against the car because you opened the door using the same hand you are holding your keys in or someone leaning against the car and something metal on their clothing like a zipper or rivet on jeans scratched the finish.
I will be making a video of the process and posting it once a new scratch presents itself... and it will. Also I live in Huntington Beach so if you are local and want to see the process in person just drop me a PM.
Excuse any typos or completely missed words. I type faster than I think and frequently leave out words in a sentence.
08-14-2007, 03:20 AM
#5
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Video added
Ok... I made the video. There are two versions available, on mp4 and the other wmv. The mp4 is better quality. The wmv is lower quality so the compression somewhat hides the scratch at times.
Please read the disclaimer at the end.
GET 20MB MP4 Higher Quality VIDEO HERE
GET 10MB WMV Lower Quality VIDEO HERE
Please read the disclaimer at the end.
GET 20MB MP4 Higher Quality VIDEO HERE
GET 10MB WMV Lower Quality VIDEO HERE
08-14-2007, 05:52 PM
#6
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SL Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
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Posts: 524
Well done. Very imformative for those who don't know. Although, I'm sure many of our SL members will be reluctant to try this method versus leaving them alone. Many of us are "scared". I have messed around with scrathces and there were some successes and failures. One thing I can add to your topic is that you can also rub the scatches with 3M rubbing compound and blend out the scrathces. In doing so, you will leave behind terrible swirl marks. But, you can use any polish compound with a foam pad and rub the area back and forth. The end result will be most satisfying.
PS. this should be a good Youtube video!!!
08-21-2007, 02:27 PM
#7
Just did this last night on my sideskirts (people stepping on them) and some odd random scratches on my hood.
works great :D i think i could have done better but it's tougher than it seems to get the marks out with the rubbing compound. takes time. but worth it!
works great :D i think i could have done better but it's tougher than it seems to get the marks out with the rubbing compound. takes time. but worth it!
07-11-2008, 02:49 AM
#10
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Its hard to judge how bad scratches are on camera. The cam can make them look worse or better. In your case they look pretty bad and I would say no.
I found that if your fingernail will catch in the scratch (not necessarily feel it but catch), then its probably to deep for this and would need to be filled.
Also great care needs to be taken on any plastic part of the car like the bumpers and skirts. The paint on these seems less durable or thinner. You can actually rub through and start to get a dark spot and its not reversible. Before you try any area I would remove the piece I show in the video and try it under there. Also intentionally rub until you see the black show that way you get an idea of how much rubbing will be to much.
I found that if your fingernail will catch in the scratch (not necessarily feel it but catch), then its probably to deep for this and would need to be filled.
Also great care needs to be taken on any plastic part of the car like the bumpers and skirts. The paint on these seems less durable or thinner. You can actually rub through and start to get a dark spot and its not reversible. Before you try any area I would remove the piece I show in the video and try it under there. Also intentionally rub until you see the black show that way you get an idea of how much rubbing will be to much.
07-11-2008, 02:59 AM
#11
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Fort Walton Beach FL
Posts: 2
Originally Posted by socalsciontc
Its hard to judge how bad scratches are on camera. The cam can make them look worse or better. In your case they look pretty bad and I would say no.
I found that if your fingernail will catch in the scratch (not necessarily feel it but catch), then its probably to deep for this and would need to be filled.
Also great care needs to be taken on any plastic part of the car like the bumpers and skirts. The paint on these seems less durable or thinner. You can actually rub through and start to get a dark spot and its not reversible. Before you try any area I would remove the piece I show in the video and try it under there. Also intentionally rub until you see the black show that way you get an idea of how much rubbing will be to much.
I found that if your fingernail will catch in the scratch (not necessarily feel it but catch), then its probably to deep for this and would need to be filled.
Also great care needs to be taken on any plastic part of the car like the bumpers and skirts. The paint on these seems less durable or thinner. You can actually rub through and start to get a dark spot and its not reversible. Before you try any area I would remove the piece I show in the video and try it under there. Also intentionally rub until you see the black show that way you get an idea of how much rubbing will be to much.
07-11-2008, 03:29 AM
#14
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Posts: 270
Not that familiar with how well it works on pearl. In general it works better on lighter color cars. We are also talking about fairly minor scratches. You can always remove you the little runner on the door seal and test it under there.
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