clayisland485

Hey Newton, you have a friend in N/A power search. I HAD a zpi turbo but took it off and decided to see what I can squeeze all motor. What are you going to do fuel wise? I already have rc injectors and the greddy ultimate from the turbo. Good luck and lets keep in touch

newt0n

I have updated the original post to include an FI build (I dont know a huge amount about FI) and some Pro/Con comaparisons.

tC9o9

the new superchargers are supposedly made better, and wont have the same problems.

so ill see what really happens

soros151

Okay, I have taken the N/A route, and believe me that in the end F/I is really cheaper in the dollar per hp. Okay, maybe a turbo kit costs 3.5K, but those 3.5K would give u easily MORE hp that u will get with that setup. U will run at least over the $3,200 mark to get 200whp or a little more. I also took this route, because I like it, but still, it;s more expensive than F/I.

tCb00b

iTrader: (1)

I'm in this boat. I think it is possible. People just have to think out side the box.

newt0n

Im still up in the air about FI or NA. This is what i car about when increasin HP. Engine stability, engine reliablity, low end or high end HP (i want about 65% low 35% high)

mattvs

You have no idea what power the car will make with a head and a tune because no one has ever posted gains with the P&P head from ZPI. No one. Ever. Plenty have folks have posted about getting it, or posted about seeing someone with it, but there has never been a dynograph.

The only numbers available are the rough estimates from their website, and there isn't a single reliable number for "estimated gains" on any manufacturer's website.

TCpete

if i were you i would not worry about a TB...your gains from that will be minimal in comparison to other things u can buy.. you want 200 this is how u do it

1. upgraded and p&p head similar to ZPI's stage 1 or maybe 2.. or you can send out to do your own custom porting..

2. high compression pistons...

3. a good i/h/e setup as in injen CAI or ARC induction box, mmw header or alphaworks header(i prefer mmw) and 2.25 or possibly 2.5 in piping with a good exhuast in the back like a greddy sp or sp2 or vibrant and your done.

4. from their its all in EMS...ultimate i prefer for this.. but you can wait and check out greddys new v-manage...(something im waiting for when i read more about it)



thats its... maybe you can upgrade also your pulleys but i would leave that for last...

i/h/e + high compression pistons with good rods and a head upgrade and you should be able to get to 190-200..

soros151

to TCPETE! Hows u'r ITB setup?

adg016

The V-Manage only controls VVT-i...you'd still need an E.

ex_dsmer

just go FI

tCb00b

iTrader: (1)

Go NA. Be a balla!!!

Skatewerks6

sounds good to me man.

newt0n

ROFL i hear go FI and i hear go NA... im starting to think the guys saying go NA only want me to do it so i can pave the way!

tCb00b

iTrader: (1)

Boost is easy. Anyone can slap a kit on the car in a weekend and be fast. Thats not much fun. NA building requires one to learn a lot more about their car before they just start throwing money, parts and time at it. I personally think that is more fun. Looks like ZPI's stage one is just port matching the intake manifold ports on the head. You can DIY that.
<_<
>_>
<_<
I'd be all about doing mad stuff to my tC but right now I have to relie on it too much for transportation. And time and money are big factors when trying to do this on top of college. (kind of why I really only work on the car in the summer)

newt0n

well these are my thoughts on each.

FI = fast, easy, reliable, stable, known, cheapER
NA = slow, hard, reliable, semi stable, unknown, expensive

This is why so many people go FI instaed of NA .. either way it is expensive! So y not go the easy route? I mean I am all for a FULL Exhaust, Intake, Pulleys. but that is only running 160whp or in that area.

newt0n

Ok so like i am now thinking that I might throw HP out the window and just attempt to get some good responsiveness. Like i mentioned before ill just do H/I/E/Pullies and be done with power mods unless anyone has anything else that will increase responsiveness. Then I will concentrate on some suspension and body work and some audio work.

soros151

Wow, u really are confused...

JDMonkiTC

hmm just curious, how do u DIY matching the ports. link maybe?

newt0n

soros151 how would i not be confused because everyone is pulling me in so many directions its just not even funny -- **** IT IM NOT LISTENING TO ANYONE ELSE'S OPINIONS IM DOING MY OWN SHlT AND THATS FINAL!

Here is what i plan to do (CONGRATS ANOTHER NA PROJECT BUSTED -- GO SCION)

--Injen CAI ($239)
--MMW Header ($550)
--Custom Mid-Pipe (18" Hi-Flow Cat + 18" Resonator) ($250)
--HKS Exhaust ($420)
--NST Crank Pulley ($110)
--NST Lite + Water Pump Pulley ($160)

--Koni Shocks ($500)
--Hotchkis Sway Bars ($300)

--Megan Short Shifter ($75)
--NST Cable Bushings ($22)
--Ingalls Stainless Steel Braided Clutch Line ($39)
--Clutchmaster Stage 2 Clutch ($460)

--20% Tint ($200)
--Kaminari Lip Spoiler ($400)
--Kaminari Reverse Cowl Hood ($600)
--Motegi Traklite Rims - Bronze ($2000)

Total = 6115