Mr_Meaty

OK, I'm selling my TRDs and doing the install this weekend so I'm getting $250.
What do you all think would be the best power investment for that little cash?

All I have now is the Injen Axle back, so I was thinking about the Injen intake.

Or, I could do the backend with a midpipe, possibly S-pipe and midpipe.
But I was going to eventually get the MMW header which has it's own S-pipe, but costs more then I'll have this weekend. And if I do a header, I'm going to have to do the midpipe as well to get a resonator put in.

My other option would be a lightened crank pully.

Which of these do you think would get me the most noticeable gains?
Or should I do something else entire, like ignition?

Any comments or flames are welcome.

Yanki01

well i would say headers but then you'll end up getting some rasp so then i would say no. IMHO i would just say Injen CAI?

Mid_Life_tC-risis

^^Agreed. Unless USED header + new resonator meets your budget.

S-pipe or crank pulley won't give as much gain. Injen CAI showed +8 HP gain on GSC intake roundup.

ESEMRFOZZ13

megan mid pipe $198

Mr_Meaty

So far, the most votes are for intake.
I've heard that the lightened crank pully may not give you as much HP as some other mods, but you will get quicker acceleration from it, so you would notice it more when you put the peddle down.

Also, the ingals stiffy is supposed to keep you wheels to the ground better cause it helps with that horrible wheel hop.
I think the two of those would cost about the same as the Injen intake.

What do you all think would be better then? The Injen Intake or a lightened crank pully AND the ingalls stiffy?

Mid_Life_tC-risis

There's been heated debates on this & other forums about the lightweight crank pulley not having a torsional vibration damper => risk of severe engine damage over the long-term. This has happened to Supras in the past, haven't read of this happening to a tC though.

Not trying to jack this into ANOTHER pulley debate thread. Just as long as you are aware of the issue - it's your car, your call.

stl_tc_king

bang for buck - header.

my personal suggestion- intake.

Mr_Meaty

midlifetcrisis:
never heard of that. What's that all about and where does it come from?

Mid_Life_tC-risis

You can search around for more threads but here's one:

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=163475

There's also other threads where everyone with lightweight pulleys are posting up mucho miles with them and no ill effects.

But again, it's your car and your choice. The great thing about this forum is you can see both sides of the argument and then you can make an informed decision.

BigMURR

Post the link to this "GSC intake roundup" because 8hp is kinda hard to believe; I've only seen 3-5hp on average which makes it not worth it in my opinion. I would just keep saving for a full cat back exhaust (s-pipe, mid pipe, and axel back) or if you want you can add the header too but I don't like the fact that you have to add resonators to make it sound good. It's up to you though, that's just my 2 cents.

D4u2s0t

i would always suggest either breather mods first, (i/h/e) or something the help get the power to the ground.

Mid_Life_tC-risis

Here you go:

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=92108

The tested car had an AW header on it, but while Injen made +8 HP the others still only made 3-5 on the same car. Injen uses 3" pipes while others use 2.5" or smaller.

By the way, see you have the GFI. How do you like it, did you do up to stage 3? And has anybody dyno'ed it?

D4u2s0t

8 hp is not far fetched from a cai at all... i woult think that 6-8 hp would be the norm, unless these cars are different.

Hat_Trick_Hokie

iTrader: (1)

Is the Injen the best performing intake then? More-so than the K&N and others? That will most likely be my next mod as well.

citizen01

If I had a penny for everytime somebody has asked what the best performing intake is on this website... I'd probly have a couple hundred pennies. Anyways, Injen intake FTW!

monkeysauce

Most noticeable?

Doc I's cable bushings
Speedsource Poly Motor Mounts

You should be able to get both for close to $175. The rest of the items you listed you probably won't notice one bit. These two make every shift feel like a million bucks, and probably improve your 1/4 a slight bit (esp the motor mounts due to reduced wheelhop)

Mr_Meaty

i was considering the cable bushings. My CC Shifter came with the cage risers so I'm good there, but I have not heard of the Poly Motor Mounts.
Would those calm down wheel hop moreso then the Ingals Stiffy?

BigMURR

I love it, though just like with any CAI I can't feel too much of a difference. I did every stage (resonator to the TB, TRD filter, and sewer piping to the fender) I think dr. isotope came up with a great mod there. Nope no one has dyno'ed it because people have changed it up so much there's no real base setup.

Also if you do wind up geting a CAI get the dr. isotopes fender guard or just look at all his products (I recommend the short shifter)
http://doctorisotope.com/index.php?o...tpage&Itemid=1

monkeysauce

The cable bushings and risers are not the same thing. The cable bushings attach at the end of the 2 cables that run from your shifter to your transmission. They are located under the intake tubing in your engine bay. I actually thought that they made a bigger difference than the short shifter itself. You'll find that you "click" into each gear, instead of the somewhat vague feeling you get with the rubber bushings that the car comes with.
http://doctorisotope.com/index.php?o...d=27&Itemid=29

The poly motor mounts should stop wheel hop better than the stiffy. They are also more quiet in-cabin than the stiffy, but the vibration at idle is more intense.
http://www.speed-source.net/

These two things (and good summer tires) are the best performance parts that you can install to make yourself faster. If you want your car to be faster, you really need to save up for F/I. Everything else (i/h/e/pulley) is really hard to notice without a dyno. You can also run into the problems of a nasty sound with a header and exhaust, cat elimination leads to nasty emissions, CAI's rub and rattle on body panels without something like doc I's CAI panel, and solid pulleys have shown to break under stress and are never recommended by professional engine builders.

Mr_Meaty

oh, i know the risers and cable bushings are different. I just mentioned that to say i have part of that setup going, and i know it helps. Were the engine mounts hard to install?

and i was kicking around the idea of FI, but anything over 300 would need a built motor. if I'm going to build my motor, i'd like to go NA. this guy I know says we can PnP my heads, chang the compression, the cams, and some other stuff to get it in the 220-240 range for around $1500. and i know a guy that can get me a deal on new tires as well, but i just wantned to spend a couple hundred now.