SFTifoso

Nah man. Always use what your owners manual recommends. What your step dad said might be true for older cars, but today engines are built with much tighter tolerances than before. If you have a problem with the 30 weight in your car, the dealer could do a viscosity test and void your warranty. Stick with the 20 weight oil. Mobil1's 20 weight oil has a viscosity rating of 8.8. That's very close to a 30 weight, whose viscosity must be at least 9.3.

Degooch

wait if i remember correctly my owners manual says to use 5w 30...

HeathenBrewing

1952 called. It wants its myth back.

FYI - There are two basic types of crude oil (crude = dino), naphthenic and paraffinic. Most conventional engine lubricating oils today are made from paraffinic crude oil. Paraffinic crude oil is recognized for its ability to resist thinning and thickening with temperature, as well as its lubricating properties and oxidation resistance (sludge forming tendencies). In the refining process, the paraffinic crude oil is broken down into many different products. One of the products is wax, and others are gasoline, kerosene, lubricating oils, asphalt, etc. Virtually every oil marketer uses paraffinic base stocks in blending their engine oil products.

Many people believe the term paraffinic to be synonymous with wax. Some have the misconception that paraffinic oils will coat the engine with a wax film that can result in engine deposits. This is not true. The confusion exists because paraffinic molecules can form wax crystals at low temperatures. In lubricating oils, this wax is removed in a refining process called dewaxing. Wax is a premium product obtained from crude oil, and in order to insure that we produce the highest quality base stocks available, Pennzoil removes the maximum amount of wax possible during the refining process. The end result is a motor oil product formulated with premium lubricating base oil.

HeathenBrewing

Pressure does NOT = lubrication.
Flow = lubrication.

If pressure was the thing that somehow lubricated your engine then we would all be using 90 weight oil. Lubrication is used to separate moving parts, to keep them from touching. There is a one to one relationship between flow and separation. If you double the flow you will double the separation pressure in a bearing.

Stick with 5/20 or 5/30.

High flow also does more than lubricate. It is one of the things used to cool the hottest parts of your engine, the pistons, valve areas and bearings. This cooling effect is as important as lubrication in your engine. If your engine is running hot use a thinner oil. The flow will increase and so will the cooling.

gp1817

i use mobile 1 5w-30 i think the new recmmendation is 5w-20 my next change il try that

redline gear oil the best shifts so smooth

jfigueroa10

what type of oil do the dealership use??

nodsetse

It does and you'll be fine using 5w-30, no worries.

Yanki01

depends with what they have in stock i think? i think i got my 4 free oil changes with castrol? since then i went from Mobil1 to Royal Purple is what im running right now.

tc-guy

i just switched to mobil 1 5w30 synthetic. i like it.

Windu

Im running Brad Penn 20-50

SFTifoso

All you turbo/sc guys should definitely be doing used oil analysis on a regular basis. If you can spend thousands on a turbo, you can spend $20 to make sure you're not getting abnormal wear. I wouldn't be surprised if that 20-50 stuff is causing more wear.

http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/engine...-analysis.html

Click on the link. It's about a WRX owner who though he needed to run thicker oil because he tracked his car, turns out the thicker oil wasn't protecting his engine as it should. He switched back down to the recommended viscosity and his wear numbers dramatically decreased. Especially Lead, which comes from the bearings. Went from 95 PPM with the 50 weight, to 23 PPM with the 40 weight.

Windu

You have valid point, and oil analysis is a very good idea for anyone that drives hard, not just f/i. I have been doing oil analysis and visual checks of the filers, and have yet to see any abnormal results. Either way, every set of bearings I have seen for 2az are aluminum any way. Not lead/babbot bearings, just like the fact that is no longer phosphorus or zinc in oil, thanks to the dang EPA. I built my motor to the same specs I build all our race motors, not to factory specs. I dont know if that is the reason or not, never tried running that oil and doing an analysis when in stock trim. I did see better results last year when I changed from 10-30 to the 20-50. From what our BP rep told me its due to the 20-50 being able to live longer at the 230-250 degree oil temps I have running with no oil cooler.