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Old 03-22-2010, 04:23 PM
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Default Clutch Problems

Well I installed the 12lb fidanza flywheel and ACT clutch over the weekend, I went with the xtreme pressure plate and their street disc. All of which was ordered through assaultech.

Install went fairly smoothly, though I'm having a pretty big problem and here's whats happening;

-The clutch will engage with the car up on the lift and run through all the gears no problem, though when I press on the brakes while in gear and clutch down to the floor, the car bogs and dies.

-When on the ground the car will not go into any gear, though if I start it in first gear she wants to go.


Here's what I've tryed;

-Adjusting the pedal every which way, with both the top adjustment that adjusts the pedal height, and the lower adjustment that moves that rod in a and out. This did seam to help a little getting into gear, and it gave the pedal some free play. ( It had no free play before adjusting)



What I think and am hoping the problem is, is that the master cylinder went out due to the amount of force it requires to push that new pressure plate.


Some things to note:
-there is absolutely no chatter whatsoever
-clutch pedal is much stiffer than stock (as to be expected)
-car has 43k miles on it




Any input would be appreciated guys.
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Old 03-22-2010, 05:17 PM
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have u tried adding a push rod extender on the slave cylinder.. on some clutches and instances thats helped to increase the travel for better disengagement
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Old 03-22-2010, 05:54 PM
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check the master cilinder, i had that same set up and same problem and it was the master cilinder, but also try as tcpete said it could be either one. good luck
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Old 03-22-2010, 09:57 PM
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Thanks for the input guys, I finally got the pedal to adjust enough and she's disengaging beautfully now.
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Old 03-23-2010, 12:32 AM
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what was the trick?



and how do u adjust the pedal height the only adjuster i have seen/messed with on the cluthc was behind the clutch the rod tha tu adjust for freeplay(which helped me on my engagement spot)
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Old 04-01-2010, 06:07 AM
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All I did was get it to adjust it more to the point where it would disengage the clutch. The Pedal Height adjust is just above the first adjustment with the rod that moves in and out.

Though it's disengaging the engage point is literally 1/4" off the carpet making the car very difficult to drive. TCpete I noticed in a few other threads you said that adjusting that rod will bring the engage point up more, but it seems that mine can't be adjusted anymore, the rod keeps spinning when I turn it clockwise but It's just not making the pedal engage any higher.

Though you've also stated that it is a gold rod....mine doesn't seem to be gold so here's a picture to make sure we're talking about the same adjustment rod.

Name:  IMG_1791.jpg
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If this is the case that it can't be adjusted anymore, where can I purchase this push rod extender you speak of? And where do I install it at? on the slave cylinder itself?
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Old 04-01-2010, 02:38 PM
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yes thats the ROD... you see the 12mm screw that sits on the threads?

you have to loosen that nut and THEN turn the rod counter clock wise 1 or 2 full turns and that will push the pedal higher allowing you more clutch travel. once you gave it a turn or 2 or possibly more (depending on the engagement point you want) tighten the nut back up again and you should be done...

IF you've extended the black rod in the pic you posted as much as possible then your next step would be getting this

http://www.speed-source.net/

its on the homepage... the clutch rod and that replaces the rod on the slave cyclinder with a longer one.

if you go that route then your going to have to adjust your pedal engagement point again at the clutch pedel with the rod all over again but it will be much easier to get the clutch fully dis-engaged now that the longer slave cylinder rod is installed...

any more questions LMK =D
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Old 04-01-2010, 04:24 PM
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Thanks!

When I adjust it I break that 12mm nut my turning it clockwise, and your saying in order to have a higher engage point I need to turn the rod counter clockwise?

Also how are you turning the rod? I just get a 14mm open end and turn the nut that is directly in front of the 12mm. That seems to spin the whole rod...
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Old 04-01-2010, 05:13 PM
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crack the nut open by turning it clock wise... all the way down to the edge of the thread... use the nut to help turn the rod in the same direction.. that will help expand the rod distance.. when your done.. hold the rod and with your fingers turn the nut counter clock wise to raise it back up and lock it again... sorry i got confused before..

keep adjusting the rod length accordingly.. it might take u a few tries to get it where you want... either high or low engagement you'll figure it out once u play with it more.
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Old 04-01-2010, 07:56 PM
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Ok I'm gonna try this again when I get off work...

just to be sure now, i'm going to crack that 12mm nut loose and spin it to the edge of the thread. Then keep torqing on that nut to make the entire rod spin in the same clockwise direction?

I tried turning the rod with my fingers but it's way to tight to be able to do that. Like I said I've been turning the larger 14mm nut that is closer to the pedal and that seems to turn the whole rod. Though that doesn't seem to really adjust it for some reason...

Do I need to hold that 14mm nut in place? Because it seems no matter how much I spin that rod in either direction it really doesn't shorten or lengthen at all...but again that 14mm larger nut is spinning with it.

When spinning the rod exactly where is it threading into to make it larger or shorter? Into the pedal or into something on the other side of the firewall?

Sorry for all the questions pete, this things just making me go crazy. Any my back is getting as crooked as a polititian from getting in and out of there a thousand times.
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:07 PM
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to help spin the rod... put some pressure on the pedal of jab it while spinning it.. that will help turning it clockwise or counter clockwise...

it threads into the larder cyclinder right behind the pedal..on the other end is a tube the rod slides into pushing another cylinder out to let the fluid go to the slave.

keep in mind what you have to break is the nut on the thread.. the one in the pic thats last thats the one u need to break. the other just helps to keep the bottom nut tight.. unless you have an 07+ in which case that section might be a tad different then the 05-06 as we have goldish bolts and rods not black
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:52 PM
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Well I just finished adjusting it, I actually spun it to the point where it came out of the back of the pedal. I threaded it back in about 2 threads and tightened everything back up. It engages about an inch off the ground now, which is good enough to drive it comfortably.

Thanks TCpete!
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:16 AM
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your welcome man... here to help! just make sure try and pick up that rod.. it will make a huge improvement and much easier on the travel for engagement... you never want it too low to the floor feel me?
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Old 04-02-2010, 01:45 AM
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Yeah dude for sure, I was thinking about ordering it actually just so the rod isn't being held on by 1 or 2 threads.

How hard is the install on rod? What kind of tools do you need?

Just wondering because I'm away from home at college at the moment so all I have to work with is a simple tool kit and doing everything in a parking lot... haha
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Old 04-02-2010, 02:38 AM
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takes 5 minutes... a 10mm, or 12mm and 14mm sockets with maybe a small extension will do it.. im not sure which one is the slave cylinder but its 2 bolts for the slave and 2 1 for the line i think.. just take the bolts off. cylinder with slide right off.. take off the rubber piece, take out the rod, insert rod with recesed section visible, put on rubber cover again and slip it onto its groove, put slave back into place, (push slave rod in u might need some strength or maybe an extra hand for this if your not strong enough) tighten back all the bolts.. and readjust the pedal again

10 mins tops 20 if you wana be careful and slow and slow with the pedal adjustment
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Old 04-02-2010, 05:08 AM
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Cool beans, figured it shouldn't be too hard. Looked like it be pretty simple when I had the slave off to do the clutch install.

Just placed an order for one.
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Old 04-12-2010, 03:33 AM
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Installed it today, went smoothly and clutch engages right where I want it now.

If anybody searches this thread and has to do this, I did have to completely disconnect the threaded rod from the pedal in order to push this new extended rod into the slave cylinder.


TCpete ftmfw!
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Old 04-12-2010, 03:59 AM
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you took it out?? lol you dont have to... the trick is taking the slave cylinder off the tranny..installing the rod in the slave and then pressing the slave back against the fork alot to push the rod in. As it slowly goes back out it will give u time enough to move it into position and thread in 1 bolt... once one bolt is in, all the other ones are cake to put on. u did more work but no biggie its the same effect.

Originally Posted by cavalierkid888
TCpete ftmfw!
i concur lol

glad i could be of help!
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Old 04-12-2010, 05:21 AM
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hmmmm well i pushed on that slave with quite a bit of force and it just wouldnt budge at all in order to get it past the fork...

even with the rod disconnected at the pedal it took some muscle to get that slave pushed in
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Old 10-08-2010, 06:00 PM
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Default Push Rod Extender

Originally Posted by TCpete
have u tried adding a push rod extender on the slave cylinder.. on some clutches and instances thats helped to increase the travel for better disengagement
Where can I get one?
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