I have a 06 Scion tc.....with a act street clutch and heavy duty pressure plate...a few days ago,i noticed....as i press it down and go into 1st gear,there was no tension as it usually has,felt very weird,then today.i was driving,i pressed it down,and couldnt get into gear,the clutch just sat on the floor,but if i maunually picked it up,it would get into gear...did this until i got home,then when i got home safely,i press the clutch a thousand times and it came up,could it be a bad slave cylinder....

 

heres more info

if i push the clutch in and out its fine,it doesnt stick to the ground,but if i hold it to the floor for a few secs,it sticks...

 

check the slave cylinder for leaks

 

I had the exactly same thing with my clutch like 3 months ago. It was my master cylinder. I had no visual signs of leaking or anything but when i took everything apart sure enough seals were blown. Don't buy the whole new cylinder, just get master cylinder rebuild kit from toyota.

 

is it easy to fix,what do i have to take apart

 

The hardest part is to disconnect the clutch pedal and remove master cylinder. Rebuilding master cylinder is really easy as removing 1 c-ring and replacing pushrod and a spring with new one.

 

heres the deal...i had my buddies comes over and go over everything,theres no signs of any leaks,we got the clutch to get stuck 2 times,but we pumped the clutch nermrous,times,not sure if that,did anything,but right now,the pressure came back,before i would have to clutch,down to the floor,i could feel the tension,weakened,then i would,lift up on the clutch a bit,then push it back down,then it would get stuck,but know,its weird,it wont get stuck,the clutch,feels strong again,could it be a rare occasion thing,or a symptom,of something about to go out....

 

Telling you mine was exactly same way. I could pump it like 10 times, and it would come back up, only happens when you hold it for a few seconds. There are no signs of leaking, because one of the seals inside MC is damaged but other one keeps the fluid inside. When you hold clutch in, fluid is escaping through the damaged seal back in the brake fluid canister, then you are loosing the pressure in your clutch line and pressure plate is engaged again, but the pedal has no pressure to push it back up. Sounds about right?

 

sounds exactly right,so ur saying,even though its back to normal,it will happen again...just get the clutch master rebuild cylinder kiit..

but yea,push clutch in and out,many times,its fine,comes up,pressure is there,sometimes it feels a little spongy,then when you push in clutch to floor thats when i feel the pressure gets lost...but now it seems oki,but i kinow its not

 

should i just pick up this from my local store...

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...|GRP60006_____

 

Its doing it because your seal is not completely damaged yet, just a little cut on the side somewhere, just enough to loose pressure if you hold it for a few seconds. You can still drive your car, its PITA, just take care of it ASAP. I drove mine for 2 weeks like that i think. I didn't even catch it was doing that at first cuz i don't ride clutch much, only on heels and in reverse. I'd recommend getting oem toyota parts. MC is like $80 i believe, and rebuild kit is like $30. Your choice. Check out trdsparks.com These guys are awesome. You can also rebuild your slave cylinder while you at it, its just a few bucks for rebuild kit. Get some brake fluid too, you going to spill a lot of it, and then you going have to bleed your clutch lines to get all air out of them. PITA if you do it by yourself. Anyways, good luck to you.

 

o ok,so ur saying,that even though they seals arent completely damaged yet,it will def get worse....and just replace the MC and might as well do the slave cylinder and get some new fluid,everything in one shot....

would my local dealership have the rebuild kit for the MC at $30.....and the SC also.....

 

i looked into the repair kit,what exactly,has to be replaced,wouldnt it be easier just to replace the whole mc or no...do i have to just replace the seals....

 

You can replace the whole thing, I was trying to save you some$$$. Repair kit is everything but the cylinder case. You can't just replace the seals cuz they are put on the push rod from the factory. They are very delicate, even little dirt particle can damage it, that's why you have to be extremely careful not to get anything in your brake fluid.

 

Oh yeah it can get worse to a point where you not able to disengage your clutch at all and you stuck in 1st gear.
Yeah dealership can get you parts faster than any online stores but its going to cost you a little more.

 

o ok,so i would need new fluids too,and to bleed the clutch....


where exactly,is the mc located,i know its behind the clutch pedal,but as far as the engine bay,....do i follow the clutch hard lines,does anything have to be disconnected in the engine bay,any tips

 

from what i read on here,about the act clutches and mc giving up quicker due to the pressure,im assuming,it wont be the last time,it will give out,thats why im thinking,either rebuild it,or just making it easy and just replace it,and see how long it last,but i was looking at my local store and the replacements,they have the beck/arlney one for $80 then the perfection one,seems like when i google beck/arlney one,its more common and expensive then the other one,im also lookng in to the rebuild kit also...but not sure yet

 

Just pick up 1 little bottle dot3 or 4 brake fluid. I only used less than half of it. Whatever fluid you spill or drain do not reuse it. MC is located way up there on firewall outside the clutch pedal. Its kinda hard to see, but look behind your strut mount, its got hard line going to it and a hose from brake fluid reservoir. I got small hands so I didn't have to disconnect anything. I did move my intake filter box out the way. Then you disconnect all the lines, clutch pedal and 2 bolts for pedal/MC bracket.

 

I had my CC stage 4 installed at 18k miles and MC went out at 60k. Pretty common with heavy aftermarket clutches.

 

alright so its behind behind the firewall behind the strut mount,thats what i thought,so i should disconnect the clutch pedal from the rod first,then disconnect the lines to the mc,then unbolt it from the firewall,and take it out,then just put new one in,connect all lines first,then bolt to firewall,then connect the pedal to the rod,then after everything is hooked up and everything is done,bleed the clutch,until the fluid in the container starts to rise,or pressure within the clutch pedal....is this right