i bought an extra axle nut from toyota more than a year ago. I dont think it was that much, but it could have been a few bucks or $8. Yikes! I got to check the receipt (I haven't changed my clutch yet). I had credit to burn, so I didn't mind.

 

Impressive being able to do it without droping the engine. looks like theres even a little room to spare

 

so what are the tricks into getting the axel out? me and my friend have been trying for over an hour prying on it and it hasn't budged. is there any secret bolts or anything?

we have everything disconnected in order for the axel to come out... but it's not budging

 

Hey, sorry nobody replied when you were actually doing the install (I'm TENNY's neighbor and helped him with the clutch). Hope this helps someone else in the future though. For the axle, you really have to have a good combination of huge flat-head screw drivers - A.K.A "persuaders"(at least 2), a large flat-bar, a small 2"x2" block of oak wood, and tons and tons of brute strength....one guy prying one end with persuaders on one side, and the other using the flat-bar/block of wood.

PM me if anyone has any questions, better chance I'll answer if anyone has problems during an install.

-Wes

 

Is it possible to reupload the step by step pictures. so i can use them for reference thanks .

 

Yeah, I could really ise the pictures about now lol

 

this diy was pretty decent i gues the pics is what was nice let me know ho wmuch room i had and if i did things right but the axels were a PITA so on the driver side i took apart the av and for passenger side we just unbolt the trans and pulled it away form the passenger axel.... so much easier than prying and all that

 

hey SL... i started my clutch project tonight and am running into a few issues... first of all, the passenger side drive shaft wont come loose... i removed the 2 bolts but which way should i move it to get it out? towards pass wheel, correct? and is this just force or a technique? nervous about damaging parts... and once i get that off... if i have ALL the tranny bolts removed, the tranny should drop straight down? or towards driver side wheel? i have jacks under it, and it has dropped a bit once i got all the bolts removed, but i didnt wanna go any further until i got the pass side driveshaft off and knew what to do with the tranny... wow, this isnt as easy as i thought. haha but any help is appreciated... back at it tomorrow... the diy is great, but a few more details in the wording may help... removing the sub assembly isnt as easy as it sounds... haha

 

^you should have the tranny fully supported so you dont end up bending the input shaft from the tranny (very bad). Yes make sure the drive shafts are both out of the trann, supported and out of the way, then the tranny should drop pretty much straight down.

 

tranny and axles are removed... now replacing the clutch parts... my question is, the exedy kit that i bought, also includes 2 small bearings and a metal spacer bearing... are these for a pilot bearing, which the tcs dont have... or what are these? help? i want this stuff back in and my car rolling again!

 

should probably check with exedy... im an act guy... only things i recieved were the clutch pressure plate, and throwout bearing... dont know about any spacers

 

Hey, sorry for the late reply, I don't get on here that often anymore. Looks like you already got a few replies in the thread and have probably finished your project by now, but hopefully this explanation will be helpful to someone in the future.

We fought with the axle for probably a good 2 hours (including a trip to the store for bigger tools). A very large flat crowbar and a few large flat screwdrivers finally did the trick. After you've pulled the rubber boot back, you're looking for the end of the black metal casing to pry out towards the driver-side wheel. There is a small gap between the black metal and the grey metal, which is where the flat-bar can be placed. Be careful not to bend this up using flat screwdrivers (wider + thinner flat-bar = better). There are also a few grooves around the axle (a few inches further out) which were pretty shallow.

Look at the picture just above step #13. Our actual setup when it finally popped loose was a 2"x2" block of oak resting on the black VIN label (or whatever that is), while using the flat bar to pry on one of the shallow grooves further up on the axle, while the other person pried with two large flat screwdrivers on top and bottom of the flat bar. Just don't give up, that axle was a beast. If I remember correctly we had to take the driver's side axle out first because it contained some sort of locking mechanism. Once the driver's side was out the passenger side slid out pretty easily.

By leaving the pass motor mount on it helped and hurt in removing the transmission. We placed a second jack under the transmission hoping to simply slide it away from the motor...but when doing a project this huge, nothing's that easy. After removing all the bolts we were able to lower the two jacks slightly to angle the transmission down towards the wheel well. We ended up moving the trans-jack because it was shifting around too much and we determined we weren't going to be able to just roll it out. So, Tenney ended up lying under the trans and letting it give him a nice Cleveland steamer as I broke it loose from the engine, then quickly took it from him through the wheel well. I do remember running into trouble with the end of the trans hitting the frame because that motor mount we left on didn't allow for quite enough flexibility to get it under the frame. Just aim below any metal on that side so it doesn't get hung up...because that thing isn't light.

Hope this helped out with some of the explanation from steps #12-16 since those were probably the toughest. I'll try to be more diligent about checking my PM's if anyone else has questions.

 

Zombie thread on the day of the rapture...

dear god the rear mount is a _____ to get too!!!! Thanks for outlining that in the origional post.. please go back and edit it for those that do not know the evil of the tC transmission!

 

Ok so weird question but the "weight" like thing in the picture below number 16, towards the bottom of the tranny, is that supposed to be loose? When everything is connected? I can wiggle mine back and forth, I know if it goes side to side that should apart of the shifting. Thanks

 

I think i am going to f myself up u right that bastard is fricking hard to put back ( tranny ) and doing it by myself no help its a oh cant even say my feelings lol

 

can someone find out what's the weight of the transmission or guess? I'm planning to do it myself, since I've had tear apart my GSR/LS motor and rebuilt it before. Thinking I'll be using some robe or chain to wrap on my DC Strut bar to hold it when I unbolt everything and lower it with robe. what do you guys think?

 

Well the trany is not as heavy as i was expecting u if u got some muscle its not that heavy to pic ikt as far as hanging it on strut bar i wouldnt do it because its loong and big space and could bend but idk u better of with floor jack just get small one from store for like 20-30 bucks and borrow ig one or get friend to help u out its not bad to take it of without jack but to put it back ull need jack for sure i just finished mine on sat and i am telling u it was only me puting it back and it was pain lol but doable

 

I gotta question, I'm going to do this tomorrow, and I have gear oil for the tranny, just curious if I'm gonna need any other fluid for my clutch or something...

Also to add, I have a stainless steel braided clutch line to put on..

 

Makes it easier if you have two jacks. One under the motor so you can put it in position to push the trans back in. Another jack so you can jack up the trans back into the bay from below.



Trans has it's own fluids inside. The clutch uses the same reservoir the Brakes do. You are changing the line, so need to bleed from the slave cylinder.

 

That's what I thought.. just wanted to double check. Thank you much sir!