KendoStick1

not worth the horrible sound for next to nothing performance gains

CLT-tc

since you seem to have all the answers, what are the performance gains from that set up?

The12Die4

Ok, enough bs..

Real question....

Ive heard that the newer 08+ tC headers are a little better in performance than the previous years.. Has anyone thought about removing the heat shield and just having the stock head heat wraped? Would that be just as or more functional? I would prefer to get rid of the heat sheild...

XIEmperorIX

iTrader: (2)

all headers for a tC are going to act the same regardless of the year..the 07+ got a 1 hp bump because of some minor changes but other than that it's all the same stuff.

as far as the stock manifold - a few guys have polished it up and it looks pretty nice that way. you could always try that. Don't know anything about heat wrapping though..maybe get it jet hot coated? My only concern with that is if it might somehow affect that cat..but I doubt it would.

The12Die4

What do you mean they polished it up? did they polish the heat shield, or did they take that off and polish the pipes???

maherdan82

You can run a header with no rasp. Just leave your stock mid pipe and muffler on. I run a strup header and invidia s pipe. I have no rasp and a nice exhaust note. I had a full 2.5 exhaust with Megan mid and Injen axle back. Sold it in less than 500 miles. The rasp was so bad I didnt want to drive.

frankiietc

I have the dc header and a stock midpipe and trd axelback..yeah when you turn on the car it sounds raspy because its cold..but after when it warms up I love how my exaust sounds and I have no problems with cops..my exaust did get louder but I feel like its just perfect for me..not too loud and not too low..I'm into performance more than sound but also wouldn't be satistfied if my car sounds sounded like it was farting lol

bosnik

u can gain plenty of whp if u have header and exhaust w/no cats or resonators... but its gonna sound like a fart can, however you'll get some ponnies... best solution is to just swap the stock header w/the aftermarket one when racing and back to stock when not.

The12Die4

What kind of intake do you have? Can you post a video of your car to see what it sounds like???

tcbyrc

I went through a couple set ups before I got mine just right for me. I ended up with 4-1 dc sport header, megan s-pipe and the megan oe-rs axel back, no rasp. First I had the evo axel back and it was ok, but with the header it sounded like crap. Then I got the megan mid-pipe with the oe-rs muffler and it was loud and raspy plus no power gains on the dyno. So I stuck with the stock mid pipe and got one less horse power with the oe-rs muffler. When I go to the track i'll just unbolt the muffler and gain two horses. The header is the best n/a bolt on you can do. I saw 12 horse and 15 torq. on the dyno.

CadenceScion

I really don't believe that getting a raspy exhaust sound is coming from the header. A header just increases exhaust flow and allows the engine to breathe and perform more efficently. If your getting rasp or the ricey fart can sound its more than likely your exhaust. Your exhaust determines the sound, not the header. Also by eliminating all the CATS will give a raspy sound as well. I would try going with a Magnaflow exhaust or Borla if you don't mind paying a bit more.

DJ08tC

That is defiantly not right at all. By getting a header you remove the cat so there by you are creating rasp plain and simple. People have had stock exhaust then add a header and it sounds epically raspy so, it is not the exhaust they are using it is the header.

CadenceScion

If you take a stock or any after market muffer apart, you'll find chambers which changes and affects the exhaust flow. Some mufflers like Injen, Greddy, Skunk 2 and a few others are straight flow with very little restriction on them, hence giving you the rasp/fart-can sound. Other mufflers like Magnaflow, Dynomax, Flowmaster, Borla have fiberglass packing or fiberglass threads that deaden/absorb the sound or changes how the flow of exhaust pass through the muffler, which the end result is the sound it makes. It also works like this, a crack in a weld, or a rust hole in the muffler or the pipe itself will give off a certain sound. A hole in the muffler will sound very loud and obnoxious. Now a leak or crack in a pipe or weld will sound like a low hiss or like compressed air coming out of heluim tank. All this has nothing to do what so ever with a header.

CadenceScion

Yes if you do remove or hollow out a Cat, or both for that matter, I can see where the rasp is coming from. The first CAT is small where the second one is a lot bigger.

DJ08tC

what do you know rasp with a magnaflow exhaust, must be caused by a hole in his exhaust and not the header.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CpUZ4vOh9Zc

CadenceScion

I'm going to have to agree with Emperor on this post. The heat wrap is a big no no. Heat wrapping a header traps moisture, which will rot out your header faster. If you want to cut down on heat, go with the Jet-Hot and have the header jetcoated. Heat wrapping should only be used a race applications only, not where the engine is subjected to rain, snow, salt and from constant heating and cooling.

game-over

From my and my friends experiances. The header will add rasp. Take the trd exhaust.
I thought it sounded pretty good for being as restricting as it is. No rasp.
Now you have the same set up on the same car but with a dc header. Sounded like poop.
Like you said. Your pushing more air thru the exhaust. So of course your gonna get a different tone. Just my $.02

CadenceScion

I just did some reading on a few Honda/Acura forums asking the same question about raspy exhaust. From what I read, its not the header, its the size of the pipe your using. Keeping with a 2.25-2.50 inch pipe from front to back and also using a resonator will eliminate the raspy popping/crackling sound. It also sounds like to me that deleting the CATS and pending on the muffler their using is what's causing the raspy sound.


http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/bolt-...ust-raspy.html

Mazda Forum

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?p=4295983

DJ08tC

OMG so it is the header because the header deletes the primary cat, so there by causing rasp!!! People have kept there stock midpipe and a good sounding axle back then when they add the header it makes it raspy.

CarbonXe

iTrader: (1)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeHWmrlUSZc

Borla axle-back + header + stock midpipe = Raspy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xl-_4XNda2c

TRD axle-back + header + stock midpipe = Raspy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWw5GNqvN20

TRD + header + S-pipe + resonator = Raspy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLelW7gKw9A

Fart can + header = Raspy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X40meUsb2gU

A different fart can + header = Raspy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CpUZ4vOh9Zc

Magnaflow + header = Raspy.


What do they all have in common?