i havent heard of calibrating the aem gauge.. or maybe i just dont remember but they are precalibrated from factory.. im sure its a tuning issue more than anything.. if you take you car to a dyno, you will have an wideband that can verify you afr gauge accuracy

 

Exactly, that's what you need to do, like I said earlier. Also where is your A/F gauge reading from? Do you have it in the 2nd O2 sensor bank, or did you weld in another bung?

 

i'm using a plx devices wideband on my xA. i never had to calibrate it. it works fantastically :D

 

i welded a bung into the s pipe

im actually scared to drive the car right now, i spent a ton of money on this project and dont want anything to happen to it. im afraid of driving for a few reasons, one is the a/f r and the new bearings in the s/c sound like they are going to break apart at idle. like i said, there is definitely more work i need to do before it goes back on the street.

ill check on the calibration deal online. i was just talking to a buddy and he said to make sure i didnt swap the lines from the boost sensor to the oil press. ga and vice versa. i think that may be the problem, as my oil psi isnt making sense either.

i also have a horrible power source that these gauges are running off of, all things to check out this weekend.


what is my desired a/f r?

14.5-15 at idle is what im getting from you guys right?
and as boost rises, a/f r lowers down to what? maybe 13?


thanks alot for your guys' help, much appreciated, glad this thread didnt get piled up with useless posts

edit: just checked online, the aem does not get calibrated. it is not needed.

 

you wanna be in the 11's when seeing boost

also like you said earlier i think your best bet is to get a stock ecu and get a piggy back and tune it from there

 

had my boost and oil psi gauge switched around, they read correct now.

im at -20 to -30 at idle on my boost gauge and 15.1 afr at idle, i took it on the street, got into 2nd, the afr went down to about 13 but i didnt get into boost at all

my supercharger is rattling horrible, sounds like its going to explode

im so fed up with this s/c, i am strongly thinking about gettin a turbo kit for it...

i think my afr values are on target, give or take a few points..

 

I wanna know how you got an 05 trd s/c onto an 08 xb 2az engine? Plus it is prolly the ecu for that motor and you have an outdated trd tune!

 

the tune being outdated has no relation to my problems. the only difference is the compression of the cylinders but i dont see why that would change the afr.

like i said, im pretty sure my afr is on target.

the s/c was rebuilt but i dont think it was rebuilt correctly.

 

what's difference in compression? .2!!! that's not enough to cause any significant issues. if anything, your timing would need to be adjusted to compensate for different compression. Your AFR's are off because your ECU isn't adding enough fuel. First fix your SC and then get a piggyback and have it dyno tuned.

 

does the supercharger make noise at idle? or only during boost?

 

only at idle it rattles HELLA LOUD

 

Then you must have something loose. If its not rattling at anything other than idle, something is loose.

 

been out f*ing with my car all day, took apart the s/c, look:







Video 1

Video 2

the OD of the bearings measure 1.384" and the ID of the housing measure 1.390"

there is alot of gap between them, they literally drop right in and pull right out, the other larger bearings are snug in place... is this because of superchargedscions.com's bearings being too small to fit or is my housing just worn?

either way, im going to try and slip something around the bearing to fill the gap..

 

i dont know anything about supercharger bearings, but what i do know is that there should be no play. bearings are normally pressed on or heated up. when you do have play, shafts and housings get damaged. you need a machine shop to make a sleeve to compensate for the difference in diameters. or, you can try to find a bearing that fits your dimensions. its hard for me to say because i am not familiar with your setup. my experience with bearings mainly come from generators and hoist motors. but, the principals are the same. that bearing should be tight either on the shaft or in the housing.

 

exactly, the bearings fit tight on the shaft but not in their housings. im going to see if i can make a sleeve or bushing today, im not the best machinist but i think i can get it to fit snug.

 

yeah same concept as turbo's, no shaft play should be there. As far a machining something remember its gonna be spinning at 20,000+RPM's. So its gotta be made very well.

 

20,000?

more like 120,000 lol

but that doesnt matter a whole lot because this machined piece is just going to be stationary, to fill a gap between the outer bearing race and the inner part of the housing

im starting with 2 of these as a start



might use some jb weld... im not sure

 

gotta do something cause this thing will spin and eat away at your housing or bearing or both!

 

yeah im not driving it right now, its still sittin'

driving my gf's car still

 

sorry missed a 1, made a big difference