grounding install, disappointed...
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: North Royalton, OH
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grounding install, disappointed...
hey ya. i ordered some 8 gauge power wire from knukonceptz.com, allong with some gold ring terminals.
i grounded the following, in order:
right fender->battery ground->bolt right next to spark plug->left side of motor bolt-> alternator bolt on top.
i didn't get to grounding the left fender. my grounding setup is one continuous chain, not one that runs wires to each ground point and back to the battery negative.
i don't notice any difference in throttle response at all.
what went wrong? i'm thinking it's because i used 8 ga wire and it's a continuous chain. i'd shell out the cash for a ready made kit if it actually improved the throttle response.
let me know your thoughts
i grounded the following, in order:
right fender->battery ground->bolt right next to spark plug->left side of motor bolt-> alternator bolt on top.
i didn't get to grounding the left fender. my grounding setup is one continuous chain, not one that runs wires to each ground point and back to the battery negative.
i don't notice any difference in throttle response at all.
what went wrong? i'm thinking it's because i used 8 ga wire and it's a continuous chain. i'd shell out the cash for a ready made kit if it actually improved the throttle response.
let me know your thoughts
#3
Gives everything a bigger charge....I have the Sun Industries Hyperground system and I saw a nice increase in gas mileage which is what it was intended for for me
The thing you need to do is try different spots and test it
The thing you need to do is try different spots and test it
#7
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Originally Posted by mikemoon
I used 6 gage with 4 different wires. Grounded to same points you did. I noticed a definite response. I've heard it's good to use 4 guage. I think your gauge is too small. Just my guess.
-Mike Moon.
-Mike Moon.
#8
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Originally Posted by turbo2liter
If it was that easy, they would have done it from the factory and advertised better gas mileage. Grounding wire is a "show" ricer mod, nothing more.
#9
Your car is going to inject the same amount of fuel no matter if you've got a spark plug in the cylinder or not. Saying it "increases" gas mileage is idiotic.
It may, and when I say may, I mean a LONNNGGG shot.. MAY increase throttle response. If the ground's coming from the engine were so inefficient that upgrading to larger ones gave a noticeable response, the voltage moving off the plugs would probably weld the OEM straps to whatever they were touching.
It may, and when I say may, I mean a LONNNGGG shot.. MAY increase throttle response. If the ground's coming from the engine were so inefficient that upgrading to larger ones gave a noticeable response, the voltage moving off the plugs would probably weld the OEM straps to whatever they were touching.
#10
Originally Posted by turbo2liter
Your car is going to inject the same amount of fuel no matter if you've got a spark plug in the cylinder or not. Saying it "increases" gas mileage is idiotic.
It may, and when I say may, I mean a LONNNGGG shot.. MAY increase throttle response. If the ground's coming from the engine were so inefficient that upgrading to larger ones gave a noticeable response, the voltage moving off the plugs would probably weld the OEM straps to whatever they were touching.
It may, and when I say may, I mean a LONNNGGG shot.. MAY increase throttle response. If the ground's coming from the engine were so inefficient that upgrading to larger ones gave a noticeable response, the voltage moving off the plugs would probably weld the OEM straps to whatever they were touching.
#12
And again I ask, if the ground is so important, why aren't you adding another few pounds for all the positive wires?
This crap about charge being greater is amazing. I saw a couple of millivolts difference in the other thread about this. Let's do some math:
.002v/14.400v x 100% = 0.014% difference.
Do you honestly believe your ignition is misfiring so badly that a 0.014% difference in voltage is going to improve your mileage? That's the only way your mileage is going to change. 20 years ago, overall probability of ignition for a really good ignition system was 88% according to Jacobs Engineering (and they were trying to sell ignition boxes). It is now well into the high 90's, because the engines won't pass smog unless they can hit well into the 90's.
Your ECM also detects misfires and will set a code and illuminate the CEL if there are too many in a given time period. This is fundamental to ALL OBDII controlled engines.
If you want to make a difference, just remove the bolts currently holding your ground straps and put antiseize compound on the threads. The biggest resistance point is NOT the wire, it is the interface between the terminal lug and the engine/chassis. Antiseize ensures a GREAT electrical connection.
This crap about charge being greater is amazing. I saw a couple of millivolts difference in the other thread about this. Let's do some math:
.002v/14.400v x 100% = 0.014% difference.
Do you honestly believe your ignition is misfiring so badly that a 0.014% difference in voltage is going to improve your mileage? That's the only way your mileage is going to change. 20 years ago, overall probability of ignition for a really good ignition system was 88% according to Jacobs Engineering (and they were trying to sell ignition boxes). It is now well into the high 90's, because the engines won't pass smog unless they can hit well into the 90's.
Your ECM also detects misfires and will set a code and illuminate the CEL if there are too many in a given time period. This is fundamental to ALL OBDII controlled engines.
If you want to make a difference, just remove the bolts currently holding your ground straps and put antiseize compound on the threads. The biggest resistance point is NOT the wire, it is the interface between the terminal lug and the engine/chassis. Antiseize ensures a GREAT electrical connection.
#13
Originally Posted by lo_bux_racer
And again I ask, if the ground is so important, why aren't you adding another few pounds for all the positive wires?
This crap about charge being greater is amazing. I saw a couple of millivolts difference in the other thread about this. Let's do some math:
.002v/14.400v x 100% = 0.014% difference.
Do you honestly believe your ignition is misfiring so badly that a 0.014% difference in voltage is going to improve your mileage? That's the only way your mileage is going to change. 20 years ago, overall probability of ignition for a really good ignition system was 88% according to Jacobs Engineering (and they were trying to sell ignition boxes). It is now well into the high 90's, because the engines won't pass smog unless they can hit well into the 90's.
Your ECM also detects misfires and will set a code and illuminate the CEL if there are too many in a given time period. This is fundamental to ALL OBDII controlled engines.
If you want to make a difference, just remove the bolts currently holding your ground straps and put antiseize compound on the threads. The biggest resistance point is NOT the wire, it is the interface between the terminal lug and the engine/chassis. Antiseize ensures a GREAT electrical connection.
This crap about charge being greater is amazing. I saw a couple of millivolts difference in the other thread about this. Let's do some math:
.002v/14.400v x 100% = 0.014% difference.
Do you honestly believe your ignition is misfiring so badly that a 0.014% difference in voltage is going to improve your mileage? That's the only way your mileage is going to change. 20 years ago, overall probability of ignition for a really good ignition system was 88% according to Jacobs Engineering (and they were trying to sell ignition boxes). It is now well into the high 90's, because the engines won't pass smog unless they can hit well into the 90's.
Your ECM also detects misfires and will set a code and illuminate the CEL if there are too many in a given time period. This is fundamental to ALL OBDII controlled engines.
If you want to make a difference, just remove the bolts currently holding your ground straps and put antiseize compound on the threads. The biggest resistance point is NOT the wire, it is the interface between the terminal lug and the engine/chassis. Antiseize ensures a GREAT electrical connection.
Thank you Lance, I was just about to take this idiocy over to yoursciontc and see if I could hear the collective laughter about it from my house...
#15
Originally Posted by Joe@Dezod
Originally Posted by turbo2liter
Your car is going to inject the same amount of fuel no matter if you've got a spark plug in the cylinder or not. Saying it "increases" gas mileage is idiotic.
It may, and when I say may, I mean a LONNNGGG shot.. MAY increase throttle response. If the ground's coming from the engine were so inefficient that upgrading to larger ones gave a noticeable response, the voltage moving off the plugs would probably weld the OEM straps to whatever they were touching.
It may, and when I say may, I mean a LONNNGGG shot.. MAY increase throttle response. If the ground's coming from the engine were so inefficient that upgrading to larger ones gave a noticeable response, the voltage moving off the plugs would probably weld the OEM straps to whatever they were touching.
#17
I think it's funnier that people pay good money for this crap. All these self-proclaimed "experts" who swear by ground wires and other such tomfoolery would know better if they actually had any concept of electricity and how modern cars work. 5 minutes with a volt meter (and an understanding of basic electricity) could prove to anyone competent, if it was better or not. I tried it and there was no appreciable loss whatsoever anywhere in the ENTIRE grounding system. If you are running a multi-1000 watt audio system, it is a simple matter to run a ground wire along with a power wire directly to the battery. As for the car itself, Toyota did a fine job on the electrical system and Bubbas backyard racing engineering won't help. I really did like the suggestion that possibly the 8-ga. wire was too small and 4-ga. would be much better! Take a look around your car and see if you can find any 8-ga. wire in the factory harness other than the battery cables. What component in your car could possibly draw enough current to cause a voltage drop in 8-ga. wire? Junk science disguised as clever marketing creates many naieve "experts" Do your learnin' in school, not a $3 magazine. If they were really that informative you could probably show your subscription and receive college credit.
#18
I installed some ebay grounding wires in my tc and i noticed a definete gain in like 50 whp to the rear wheels.
Actually I only noticed the bass in my car (1000watt amp going to two 700 watt subs) was a bit cleaner with less noice (especially since I have the stock head unit and im using a lo-hi converter from the rear speakers.
Actually I only noticed the bass in my car (1000watt amp going to two 700 watt subs) was a bit cleaner with less noice (especially since I have the stock head unit and im using a lo-hi converter from the rear speakers.
#20
Ok everyone... coming from an electronics guy (me) this will NOT give you any noticeable gain in any shape or form.. and if it does... you are most likely using the wallet dyno as your measure. It does technically give some improvement.. but not enough to come close to noticing. You can ground and ground and not notice a thing. I can go into the electronic and automotive theory behind it and show exactly what advantage it has.. but it is pointless. In the long run you are just cluttering up your engine bay with that extra wire. For a sound system it may help a bit.. but that is it.
Most every automotive control system is designed to operate perfectly with around 50mV on a ground. Typically this value is MUCH less unless the vehicle is old and the ground connections have deteriorated. If you add a ground kit and see measurable and noticeable gains you most likely had a bad ground to start with.
Most every automotive control system is designed to operate perfectly with around 50mV on a ground. Typically this value is MUCH less unless the vehicle is old and the ground connections have deteriorated. If you add a ground kit and see measurable and noticeable gains you most likely had a bad ground to start with.