Header CEL Fix
#62
Sorry that everyone here is realizing now what we had to go through to develop our header without the CEL.
Our headers will not have CEL and if you have any issues at all with the headers I am here to give you customer service. If I am not enough I can get you directly to our R+D team either in California or Florida.
I am here and I am very committed to everyone here, and that is something that no other company will do. I am your dedicated customer service representative here.
Best regards,
Victor D.
Our headers will not have CEL and if you have any issues at all with the headers I am here to give you customer service. If I am not enough I can get you directly to our R+D team either in California or Florida.
I am here and I am very committed to everyone here, and that is something that no other company will do. I am your dedicated customer service representative here.
Best regards,
Victor D.
#66
Originally Posted by DouBLeJ16
i've actually tryed both, neither one of them worked.
than theres something wrong when you install the header... you added the new manifold gasket right? did you switch the OEM gasket ring on the bottom of the OEM header to megan?? is the anti-fouler attach to the O2 on the s-pipe or header??? did you make sure all bolts are tight especially the 2 bottom ones with springs attach? i suggest you should take the header off and examine everything (the header from inside) then reinstall everything... after that let you car idle for 10min. or so and not press on the gas!
there is a difference between the 42002 and 42009; one of them is just the 2 pieces that are longer and the other comes with a washer (some o-ring) but the pieces are short... i made a post before saying i have the longer one (i forgot the serial #)
i installed my DC's at 17400miles (yea i drove the crap out of it) and everything was successful....
ive been driving for over 140 miles already and no CEL....
if you still get the CEL, take it to the shop and have it computer checked and if it says HEADERs than i suggest you take those megan's back and trade it for DC or alpha's......
#67
Originally Posted by davo345
Originally Posted by TurboTC
Resistor mod will not work! Why would you even try when this mod is so easy?
ARE YOU GUYS TALKIN ABOUT THIS THING???
you can see in the pic the box is the chip and 2 wires coming out of it towards the 2 blue splicers...
I got this resistor mod from ebay... and to tell you the truth it does work... throttle response is very noticable. and i bought it from them because the 99% positive feedback...
this chip makes your car spit more fuel that you will probably never stall again... the weird thing is that i can drive 25 mph on 4 gear without the ackward sound (it spits that much fuel)...
i am aware of the damages i can cause to my engine cause of this chip, so im keepin my eye on the fuel systems and engine.
#68
Re: &$#! CEL
[quote="RacerZack"]OK, I finally did the CEL fix and it didn't work for me either. This is what I found:
2. I cleaned up the s-pipe threads and carefully tightened the O2 sensor into the antifoulers and them onto the s-pipe. I put anti-seize on all the threads, too. I was able to get the O2 sensor + antifoulers tight, but i had to be gentle with it.
After 41 miles, the CEL was back.
i thought you were supposed to put the antifoulers on the second 02? correct me if im wrong...i havent done this yet either
2. I cleaned up the s-pipe threads and carefully tightened the O2 sensor into the antifoulers and them onto the s-pipe. I put anti-seize on all the threads, too. I was able to get the O2 sensor + antifoulers tight, but i had to be gentle with it.
After 41 miles, the CEL was back.
i thought you were supposed to put the antifoulers on the second 02? correct me if im wrong...i havent done this yet either
#70
Originally Posted by Diluvium
than theres something wrong when you install the header... you added the new manifold gasket right? did you switch the OEM gasket ring on the bottom of the OEM header to megan?? is the anti-fouler attach to the O2 on the s-pipe or header??? did you make sure all bolts are tight especially the 2 bottom ones with springs attach? i suggest you should take the header off and examine everything (the header from inside) then reinstall everything... after that let you car idle for 10min. or so and not press on the gas!
i really think it's happening just because of the crappy megan header design. the precat broke off and got stuck in my exhaust.. after taking that out and reinstalling the header I reset the ECU, let it idle 15 minutes without touching the gas, and the CEL came back in 60 miles.
the code i'm getting is P0420. i don't know what else I can do other then wait for megan to release the new header design. i'm not the only one having this problem, I can name 5 people (just on this board) with the anti-fouler mod installed correctly that still have a CEL.
#71
Originally Posted by DouBLeJ16
Originally Posted by Diluvium
than theres something wrong when you install the header... you added the new manifold gasket right? did you switch the OEM gasket ring on the bottom of the OEM header to megan?? is the anti-fouler attach to the O2 on the s-pipe or header??? did you make sure all bolts are tight especially the 2 bottom ones with springs attach? i suggest you should take the header off and examine everything (the header from inside) then reinstall everything... after that let you car idle for 10min. or so and not press on the gas!
i really think it's happening just because of the crappy megan header design. the precat broke off and got stuck in my exhaust.. after taking that out and reinstalling the header I reset the ECU, let it idle 15 minutes without touching the gas, and the CEL came back in 60 miles.
the code i'm getting is P0420. i don't know what else I can do other then wait for megan to release the new header design. i'm not the only one having this problem, I can name 5 people (just on this board) with the anti-fouler mod installed correctly that still have a CEL.
#73
YOU CAN BUY THIS ANTI-FOULER HERE:
http://www.racingsolution.com/showpa...on=DisplayPart
I have had it on a S-pipe and AW header so far so good. I suggest that when you do the header do the s-pipe and this all at the same time so when it starts for the first time there is no problem to re-set.
This goes on the SECOND sensor not the first. If you damage your o2 in anyway that will be why you toss a CEL 7/10 times.
Scott
http://www.racingsolution.com/showpa...on=DisplayPart
I have had it on a S-pipe and AW header so far so good. I suggest that when you do the header do the s-pipe and this all at the same time so when it starts for the first time there is no problem to re-set.
This goes on the SECOND sensor not the first. If you damage your o2 in anyway that will be why you toss a CEL 7/10 times.
Scott
#76
Originally Posted by dp-_-
So I found some 18mm's. Does this look right? They're going on tomorrow. For some reason, I have a feeling it's still not going to work
#77
Re: &$#! CEL
Originally Posted by RacerZack
OK, I finally did the CEL fix and it didn't work for me either. This is what I found:
1. The difficulty I had getting the s-pipe O2 sensor off was because the threads on the s-pipe were damaged. This caused the O2 sensor's threads to become stripped. I do not believe that simply attempting to unbolt the O2 sensor could have caused this. It appears that maybe some grit was on the threads of the s-pipe at the factory when the O2 sensor was installed. At least, that's the only theory I can come up with.
2. I cleaned up the s-pipe threads and carefully tightened the O2 sensor into the antifoulers and them onto the s-pipe. I put anti-seize on all the threads, too. I was able to get the O2 sensor + antifoulers tight, but i had to be gentle with it.
3. I did reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for more than 10 minutes. I also let the car idle for 20+ minutes before driving after everything was back together again.
After 41 miles, the CEL was back.
So, here's a few questions...
1. I recall the s-pipe having some kind of screen or grating on at least one end. Am I imagining this? When I disconnected the s-pipe so I could work on removing the O2 sensor, I found that this screen is no longer there.
2. So, I'm on my back with a flashlight peering up into the Megan header. I can see all the way up to where the 4 pipes join to 1. I'm thinking "precat? *what* precat?" Shouldn't I have seen something within the air path which would be a catalyst for emissions? A regular catalytic converter has a mesh-like substance (metal, ceramic, whatever) that the air passes through. I saw nothing like this on my header. This has me puzzled.
3. I'd like to get the engine code and find out exactly what the CEL is trying to say. My tC is at the dealer today getting my first free oil change so I asked about getting the code. I was told it would be an hour's diagnostic labor @ $79! WTF is that all about? It's not going to take an HOUR to get a code from the computer. My only experience with engine computers is with my Miata. There is a driveway "trick" which allows me to connect two pins of the diagnostic connector, causing the check engine light to flash and return the error codes. Plus, Mazda techs can connect to the diagnostic connector and get the codes in a matter of minutes. Isn't the tC the same way, at least for the Scion techs???
I suppose it is possible one of the O2 sensors was damaged, but I didn't drop them or do anything other than set them on the table. I am sure all of the bolts (including the spring loaded ones) are tight and I did make sure to use the little "donut" which sits between the header and s-pipe.
1. The difficulty I had getting the s-pipe O2 sensor off was because the threads on the s-pipe were damaged. This caused the O2 sensor's threads to become stripped. I do not believe that simply attempting to unbolt the O2 sensor could have caused this. It appears that maybe some grit was on the threads of the s-pipe at the factory when the O2 sensor was installed. At least, that's the only theory I can come up with.
2. I cleaned up the s-pipe threads and carefully tightened the O2 sensor into the antifoulers and them onto the s-pipe. I put anti-seize on all the threads, too. I was able to get the O2 sensor + antifoulers tight, but i had to be gentle with it.
3. I did reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for more than 10 minutes. I also let the car idle for 20+ minutes before driving after everything was back together again.
After 41 miles, the CEL was back.
So, here's a few questions...
1. I recall the s-pipe having some kind of screen or grating on at least one end. Am I imagining this? When I disconnected the s-pipe so I could work on removing the O2 sensor, I found that this screen is no longer there.
2. So, I'm on my back with a flashlight peering up into the Megan header. I can see all the way up to where the 4 pipes join to 1. I'm thinking "precat? *what* precat?" Shouldn't I have seen something within the air path which would be a catalyst for emissions? A regular catalytic converter has a mesh-like substance (metal, ceramic, whatever) that the air passes through. I saw nothing like this on my header. This has me puzzled.
3. I'd like to get the engine code and find out exactly what the CEL is trying to say. My tC is at the dealer today getting my first free oil change so I asked about getting the code. I was told it would be an hour's diagnostic labor @ $79! WTF is that all about? It's not going to take an HOUR to get a code from the computer. My only experience with engine computers is with my Miata. There is a driveway "trick" which allows me to connect two pins of the diagnostic connector, causing the check engine light to flash and return the error codes. Plus, Mazda techs can connect to the diagnostic connector and get the codes in a matter of minutes. Isn't the tC the same way, at least for the Scion techs???
I suppose it is possible one of the O2 sensors was damaged, but I didn't drop them or do anything other than set them on the table. I am sure all of the bolts (including the spring loaded ones) are tight and I did make sure to use the little "donut" which sits between the header and s-pipe.
There is no precat in the aftermarket header. This is why you have to trick the O2 sensor. The eCU is expecting a different reading from the second one due to the cat doing its job. You are pulling the second O2 sensor out of the flow a bit to trick the ECU into seeing a different reading.
Many times the threads are damaged during removal. Always make sure that the engine is cold, and get some GOOD penetrating oil to spray all around it. Then let it set while the oil penetrates before removing. This will help prevent pulling the threads out with the O2.
#78
Anyone try the ZPI o2 Simulator? Sounds like it would be a better way to remove the CEL.
http://www.zeropointindustries.net/s...b2c18b85ec87f1
http://www.zeropointindustries.net/s...b2c18b85ec87f1
#79
Former Sponsor
Team No Limitz
AlphaSquad
SL Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: AlphaSquad - AZ
Posts: 2,622
I put mine on the second one and I keep getting the 1st bank code. Somehow I damaged the first one, I guess taking it out gently and setting it on the table and putting it back in nicely didnt do the trick. I will have to try and get a new one, I know they are not cheap though.
#80
Originally Posted by NCBIGGJ
I put mine on the second one and I keep getting the 1st bank code. Somehow I damaged the first one, I guess taking it out gently and setting it on the table and putting it back in nicely didnt do the trick. I will have to try and get a new one, I know they are not cheap though.
You need an ohm meter and torch.
Find the 2 wires for ecu (the other 2 are for heater) and torch the 02 end for a few seconds with the ohm meter hooked up. If the resistance changes it's good. No change it's bad. Do not hold the torch on for more than a few seconds.