Originally Posted by DouBLeJ16

i've actually tryed both, neither one of them worked.

Originally Posted by davo345

just askin

Originally Posted by Diluvium

than theres something wrong when you install the header... you added the new manifold gasket right? did you switch the OEM gasket ring on the bottom of the OEM header to megan?? is the anti-fouler attach to the O2 on the s-pipe or header??? did you make sure all bolts are tight especially the 2 bottom ones with springs attach? i suggest you should take the header off and examine everything (the header from inside) then reinstall everything... after that let you car idle for 10min. or so and not press on the gas!

Originally Posted by DouBLeJ16

there is nothing wrong with the install.. I did add the new manifold gasket. I did switch the OEM gasket ring to the megan header. the anti-foulers are installed properly on the s-pipe. all the bolts are all the way tight..

i really think it's happening just because of the crappy megan header design. the precat broke off and got stuck in my exhaust.. after taking that out and reinstalling the header I reset the ECU, let it idle 15 minutes without touching the gas, and the CEL came back in 60 miles.

the code i'm getting is P0420. i don't know what else I can do other then wait for megan to release the new header design. i'm not the only one having this problem, I can name 5 people (just on this board) with the anti-fouler mod installed correctly that still have a CEL.

Originally Posted by dp-_-

So I found some 18mm's. Does this look right? They're going on tomorrow. For some reason, I have a feeling it's still not going to work

Originally Posted by RacerZack

OK, I finally did the CEL fix and it didn't work for me either. This is what I found:

1. The difficulty I had getting the s-pipe O2 sensor off was because the threads on the s-pipe were damaged. This caused the O2 sensor's threads to become stripped. I do not believe that simply attempting to unbolt the O2 sensor could have caused this. It appears that maybe some grit was on the threads of the s-pipe at the factory when the O2 sensor was installed. At least, that's the only theory I can come up with.

2. I cleaned up the s-pipe threads and carefully tightened the O2 sensor into the antifoulers and them onto the s-pipe. I put anti-seize on all the threads, too. I was able to get the O2 sensor + antifoulers tight, but i had to be gentle with it.

3. I did reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for more than 10 minutes. I also let the car idle for 20+ minutes before driving after everything was back together again.

After 41 miles, the CEL was back.

So, here's a few questions...

1. I recall the s-pipe having some kind of screen or grating on at least one end. Am I imagining this? When I disconnected the s-pipe so I could work on removing the O2 sensor, I found that this screen is no longer there.

2. So, I'm on my back with a flashlight peering up into the Megan header. I can see all the way up to where the 4 pipes join to 1. I'm thinking "precat? *what* precat?" Shouldn't I have seen something within the air path which would be a catalyst for emissions? A regular catalytic converter has a mesh-like substance (metal, ceramic, whatever) that the air passes through. I saw nothing like this on my header. This has me puzzled.

3. I'd like to get the engine code and find out exactly what the CEL is trying to say. My tC is at the dealer today getting my first free oil change so I asked about getting the code. I was told it would be an hour's diagnostic labor @ $79! WTF is that all about? It's not going to take an HOUR to get a code from the computer. My only experience with engine computers is with my Miata. There is a driveway "trick" which allows me to connect two pins of the diagnostic connector, causing the check engine light to flash and return the error codes. Plus, Mazda techs can connect to the diagnostic connector and get the codes in a matter of minutes. Isn't the tC the same way, at least for the Scion techs???

I suppose it is possible one of the O2 sensors was damaged, but I didn't drop them or do anything other than set them on the table. I am sure all of the bolts (including the spring loaded ones) are tight and I did make sure to use the little "donut" which sits between the header and s-pipe.

Originally Posted by NCBIGGJ

I put mine on the second one and I keep getting the 1st bank code. Somehow I damaged the first one, I guess taking it out gently and setting it on the table and putting it back in nicely didnt do the trick. I will have to try and get a new one, I know they are not cheap though.