Help! New O2 and CEL back on!!!
05-12-2007, 03:37 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 7
Help! New O2 and CEL back on!!!
Okay guys help me out with this. I had my CEL on and I took it and had the code read. Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit low was the code. Bought a new O2 from the dealership ($225 dollars worth) and the light went off. I think the sensor was bad, something was rattling in the old one. The car drove much better. Then about 30 miles later the CEL was back on but it still ran good. Could it be the rear sensor this time since I do have the MMW header? Has anybody had this problem? Cuz that's a lot of money to throw down the drain. Very disgusted!!! Could somebody help me out?
05-12-2007, 09:41 AM
#2
search for cel fix
all you have to do is buy two spark plug antifouler read the thread on cel fix and it will tell you what to do
antifouler goes in second o2 and should eliminate that code!
all you have to do is buy two spark plug antifouler read the thread on cel fix and it will tell you what to do
antifouler goes in second o2 and should eliminate that code!
05-12-2007, 06:55 PM
#4
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Pacifica, CA
Posts: 465
the reason why you threw a code in the first place... is becuase you have a header. i think you just wasted your money buying a new o2 my friend... you need to get a spark plug anti fouler and put it into the second o2 bank... that way both sensors will read about the same amount.
05-13-2007, 12:53 AM
#5
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 493
Re: Help! New O2 and CEL back on!!!
Originally Posted by olstons_tC
Okay guys help me out with this. I had my CEL on and I took it and had the code read. Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit low was the code. Bought a new O2 from the dealership ($225 dollars worth) and the light went off. I think the sensor was bad, something was rattling in the old one. The car drove much better. Then about 30 miles later the CEL was back on but it still ran good. Could it be the rear sensor this time since I do have the MMW header? Has anybody had this problem? Cuz that's a lot of money to throw down the drain. Very disgusted!!! Could somebody help me out?
If the AFR goes bad it's possible the ECU would go into limp mode, which would explain why your car ran better after the new one was installed.
If you put in a header without doing the anti-fouler you will throw a code for catalytic converter inefficiency. This will not put you in limp mode so all you will notice is the CEL.
Pull the new code to be sure of what your new fault is.
05-14-2007, 07:12 AM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 7
The first code was: Bank 1 Sensor 1. It WAS the AFR. I didn't waste my money. I got the second code read and it is bank 1 sensor 2. So I probably need to get the anti- fouler. But what does bank1sensor 2 circuit low mean?
05-14-2007, 10:31 AM
#7
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 493
Use the CEL code number to look it up here:
https://www.scionlife.com/tech/manual/?manual=tc05_0170
Doing the anti-fouler may clear this up. Always heard the anti-fouler prevented the "low cat conv. efficiency" code, but maybe this is another related condition.
https://www.scionlife.com/tech/manual/?manual=tc05_0170
Doing the anti-fouler may clear this up. Always heard the anti-fouler prevented the "low cat conv. efficiency" code, but maybe this is another related condition.
01-09-2008, 06:21 AM
#11
no no no i was taking it off with a o2 socket and it ripped the threads , half in the stock manifold half in my socket i guess i was a little to aggresive and did not use enough heat!
01-09-2008, 07:01 PM
#13
actually heat is the way to go since its two different alloys you want to heat it up and use pb blast because if you do it cold your more likely to strip or malle the threads!
i work on cars alot .
let me tell you that some o2 sensors would never come out without heat!
due to rust and such things getting in the threads!
i work on cars alot .
let me tell you that some o2 sensors would never come out without heat!
due to rust and such things getting in the threads!
01-09-2008, 10:01 PM
#14
Senior Member
SL Member
Scinergy
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Norcross
Posts: 1,744
Originally Posted by 1AZ
actually heat is the way to go since its two different alloys you want to heat it up and use pb blast because if you do it cold your more likely to strip or malle the threads!
i work on cars alot .
let me tell you that some o2 sensors would never come out without heat!
due to rust and such things getting in the threads!
i work on cars alot .
let me tell you that some o2 sensors would never come out without heat!
due to rust and such things getting in the threads!
01-09-2008, 11:24 PM
#15
be my guest i in no way am telling you how to do anything just stating my experiances with replacing 02 sensors.
to each his own!
just saying in my case heat works better for the cars ive worked on!
only have had a problem with mine maybe cuz i felt it was still new and didnt do it like i usually would do on older cars.
to each his own!
just saying in my case heat works better for the cars ive worked on!
only have had a problem with mine maybe cuz i felt it was still new and didnt do it like i usually would do on older cars.
01-10-2008, 11:12 AM
#18
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 493
Yeah the AFR sensor is not cheap, even at Sparks.
I researched the techniques before putting on my header ... some (not all) of the folks who removed it hot broke it, believe all those who waited & cooled down first didn't. I followed someone's advice by letting the engine cool down the first night & then first application of PB Blaster + tap with a wrench to supposedly help it penetrate into the threads (don't know if the tapping really makes any difference but it sounded good
). Next morning, more PB + tap, tap before breakfast. Couple hours later one more app and both sensors came off real easy with the O2 sensor wrench.
I researched the techniques before putting on my header ... some (not all) of the folks who removed it hot broke it, believe all those who waited & cooled down first didn't. I followed someone's advice by letting the engine cool down the first night & then first application of PB Blaster + tap with a wrench to supposedly help it penetrate into the threads (don't know if the tapping really makes any difference but it sounded good
). Next morning, more PB + tap, tap before breakfast. Couple hours later one more app and both sensors came off real easy with the O2 sensor wrench.
01-12-2008, 02:31 PM
#20
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 493
No, not hard at all. Some folks have cooled down and removed the sensors right away after just one app of PB Blaster.
I'm just the cautious type and this method sounded like the way to go. Since I planned on putting the header in on a Saturday morning, I just spent a few extra minutes the Friday night before spraying down the sensors.
I'm just the cautious type and this method sounded like the way to go. Since I planned on putting the header in on a Saturday morning, I just spent a few extra minutes the Friday night before spraying down the sensors.