First of, no axle-back will give you 12-16hp on a bone stock tc. Cat-backs, will not yield those numbers either (we are talking stock tC, unless you are running F/I or maybe at least stage 2 N/A where your whp output is over 225 and you have that back pressure that needs to be relieved).

Second, a true definition of a cat-back is replacing the exhaust from the catalytic and back (hence cat-back), you are not actually supposed to take out the cat. Axel-back is obviously from the axel. There are only few systems for tCs that actually do that as far as I am aware (Magna Flow is one of them). If you take out the cat (which is in the beginning of the mid-pipe in the tC) and attach it to your s-pipe it is no longer a "cat-Back" (although it is generally referred to as such) but in fact an Spipe-back exhaust (Megan, Draxas, ZPI, CC, etc). If you replace the spipe as well then you have a header-back exhaust, are we getting the idea here?

Mandrel-bent vs crush-bent; When a pipe is mandrel bent it is the same diameter in all bends (Ex:2.25", 2.5",3.0", also at times represented in mm ex:60mm piping) where as crush-bent pipe is restricted at the point of the bend (imagine slightly bending a straw, then blowing throw it, the bend is not allowing the air to flow as freely).

Dyno testing; the same setup and give you a margin of error of a couple of percent, thats why multiple dynos should be run on one setup, and an axle-back usually falls into that margin of error. As far as what companies claim, remember they are trying to sell a product, they may have tweaked with the computer (A/F mix, etc), taken out the filter completely, or other tweaks to represent their dyno with numbers that you will never be able to duplicate in a real world situation.

I am not knocking on any one company nor trying to discourage anyone from investing in exhaust systems, but inform everyone of what is realistic and what isn't.

p.s. blackonblacktc how is version 3 compared to 2? Same 2.25 inlets? Is the tip tilted to the right? And did they fix that bumper burn that plagued the v2? and oh yea flint micas suck

 

menace i didnt think i would like you, but the last line of your reply...

anwyas emo..the Megan racing V3 comes out straight, kinda looks like the TRD exhaust, or draxas.

and menace..the V2 and V3 are completey different:

V2- the piping is 2.5 all around, except inlets are 2.35..tiled cylinder style muffler coming out of the bumper eventually buring it by exhaust, but can be fixed by adjusting the hangers.

V3- the piping is also 2.5 all around, the inlets are still 2.35, but it is a oval muffler, then has a L pipe coming out to form a tip...this looks stock, however it has a burnt(titanium) finish to it. this will not burn the bumper what so ever, as it is the same as stock.

and to those that ask about the inlets...how do you expect to mate a 2.5 inlet to a 2.25? it is kinda hard, thats why the inlets on there exhaust are small. but the piping is large so i wouldnt really care. i mean, you will get great flow no matter what...and by putting a tiny little decrease in pipe(.15 inches) wont kill you. thats why you can feel the difference with a 2.5 inch crush over a 2.25 inch mandrel, larger piping means more flow...even with a crush bent exhaust.

 

Well, it's actually a case by case scenario... If a pipe such as our mid-pipe is 2.5" but crush-bent, it will not make a significant difference because the bends are not that sharp and the pipe is straight for the most part. If you take our s-pipe for instance, a 2.25 mandrel-bent is a lot more free flowing opposed to a 2.5 crush due to the fact that the bends in the s-pipe are very acute and the actual inner diameter at the bend may very well be significantly below 2.25". That creates huge bottlenecks at the bends.

As far as inlets go, it is also case by case scenario. If you are planning on going F/I those .15" do make a huge difference. You will also be bottle necking at several points in your turbo-back exhaust for instance opposed to having 2.5" piping to the tip. But for those that are just getting the I/H/E, no it will not make a difference.

Don't want to start an argument... and Megan does make quality products... I am just saying people should keep in mind what they want to accomplish in the long run and choose their parts wisely... btw your tc looks good...

 

thanks for the compliment...and FM is for chicks...

but i am sponosered by megan racing...so i know they make good products. true, they may not have the best welds, but i know welders, so i can always have them redo what megan didnt. the material megan uses is great, just the welds are not so great. and megan is a full 2.5 inch mandrel bent exhaust, well not the inlets...but i plan to stay NA unless i can get sponsored by TRD for a SC

 

personally i like the hks better cuz its sounds nice and looks great

 

Yea the HKS is only the axle-back but in sound i think the hks sounds better then the entire megan set-up.