Ingalls Engine Torque Dampener Scion tC "STIFFY"
#63
Originally Posted by SmooVtC
so is there an actual DIY on how to adjust the damper? what tools are needed?
Loosen the small jam nut and measure the space between the two larger nuts. Stock it should be set at 14mm so tighten the top on closer to the center body of the damper to make it stiffer or leave it at 14mm and make sure to retighten the smaller jam nut against the top large nut. Don't go past 15mm b/c it will be as if you have nothing on your engine. It'll feel stock. The tighter it gets, the more inner vibration you get and when it's cold, the more noise you will get until the hydrolic fluid heats up and lubricates the acctuator inside the body of the damper. I've got mine at 13 and am satisfied with it. Have had it for about 4 months and put about 15K on it
#64
Originally Posted by web
Originally Posted by SmooVtC
so is there an actual DIY on how to adjust the damper? what tools are needed?
Loosen the small jam nut and measure the space between the two larger nuts. Stock it should be set at 14mm so tighten the top on closer to the center body of the damper to make it stiffer or leave it at 14mm and make sure to retighten the smaller jam nut against the top large nut. Don't go past 15mm b/c it will be as if you have nothing on your engine. It'll feel stock. The tighter it gets, the more inner vibration you get and when it's cold, the more noise you will get until the hydrolic fluid heats up and lubricates the acctuator inside the body of the damper. I've got mine at 13 and am satisfied with it. Have had it for about 4 months and put about 15K on it
sarcasm...
#65
Originally Posted by chrischoi
Originally Posted by web
Originally Posted by SmooVtC
so is there an actual DIY on how to adjust the damper? what tools are needed?
Loosen the small jam nut and measure the space between the two larger nuts. Stock it should be set at 14mm so tighten the top on closer to the center body of the damper to make it stiffer or leave it at 14mm and make sure to retighten the smaller jam nut against the top large nut. Don't go past 15mm b/c it will be as if you have nothing on your engine. It'll feel stock. The tighter it gets, the more inner vibration you get and when it's cold, the more noise you will get until the hydrolic fluid heats up and lubricates the acctuator inside the body of the damper. I've got mine at 13 and am satisfied with it. Have had it for about 4 months and put about 15K on it
sarcasm...
#69
Where'd it break at? What point of the damper broke? The braket on the strut mount, braket on engine mount, or connecting ends of the damper to the braket mounts? Or....just the damper itself internal?
#76
Originally Posted by BOXMAN
Chris. Pm me your info. I am sending you out a replacement ETD. See how easy that was.
so ok. it wasn't ingall's. it was the last rep. but we'll see what happens.
#77
Chris you make it very hard for a company to want to help you out. The issue with the jam nut happens due to improper adjustment procedure being followed. Ingalls is willing to loose money on a new ETD for you and all you can do is come on here and BASH how long it took? Most companies would have said user error you are on your own. SO whats the deal. Also the Ingalls MYspace is locked due to password issues so we cant log on to respond or check anything on that site sorry.
#80
Ok point understood and yes Ingalls last rep left some people hanging without filling anyone in when he abruptley quit/wasterminated. Sorry as stated Chris I have packaged up your replacement ETD and it will be going out today.
***This is a special case*** All other Ingalls ETD warrenty cases need to follow the correct steps to get a replacement or have their unit serviced***
***This is a special case*** All other Ingalls ETD warrenty cases need to follow the correct steps to get a replacement or have their unit serviced***