MMW header My review + Owners chime in and post your review
10-31-2007, 08:07 PM
#21
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no it doesnt.. to get around that is after header has been installed you need to adjust the spipe so it doesnt do that... i had the same problem but when i loosed the bolts it kinda just slipped into the right place after moving it around.. you should try doing the same.. what you can also do it get a breaker bar and stick it inbetween the sub frame and the spipe and bend it inward. that should give you plenty of clearence then..
10-31-2007, 08:37 PM
#24
wow pretty old thread but i guess i'll just put in what i think since i have the time. i got my header/s-pipe over the summer and the only problem i've had with it is the rattling that has been going on ever since i installed it. But, i've gotten used to it, and i heard that it might be the heatshield, so I'm not going to bother with it anymore. i haven't had any exhaust leak problems or anything, so i'm quite happy with it. very minimal rasp w/ a oem midpipe and resonator. i do feel a power loss when i'm doing daily driving, <3000rpm, but that quickly changes when i push it past 3000. the sound of my injen intake has gotten a bit louder and i think a little deeper somehow, and i've gotten compliments from passengers on how it sounds when i'm gassing relatively hard.
the install was a bit harder than what i saw on the tech section with the dc sport header, since i had to remove my fan, and i just couldn't get the bolt they gave me for the s-pipe to midpipe connection to work with the springs they sent me, so i just went to the hardware store and got longer bolts. other than that, it was fairly straightforward and i've had no rubbing issues either.
the install was a bit harder than what i saw on the tech section with the dc sport header, since i had to remove my fan, and i just couldn't get the bolt they gave me for the s-pipe to midpipe connection to work with the springs they sent me, so i just went to the hardware store and got longer bolts. other than that, it was fairly straightforward and i've had no rubbing issues either.
10-31-2007, 09:13 PM
#26
I think i got it from here. i have really bad memory though. http://www.wesellcarparts.com/store/...idproduct=4027
10-31-2007, 09:18 PM
#28
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yea i too eperienced the loss of tq at 3k rpms.. but bt 4k the car comes alive.. i think it has to do with the 2.5 diameter of the spip..
im thinking about getting a 2.25 spipe made to bring back that TQ...which i think is what mmw should have done to begin with...
im also going to heat wrap the headers soon also.. they are stainless steel so i shouldnt have to worry about rust.. and ill be wrapping it dwn to the spipe passing the oil pan.. should keep the oil al tad cooler also
im thinking about getting a 2.25 spipe made to bring back that TQ...which i think is what mmw should have done to begin with...
im also going to heat wrap the headers soon also.. they are stainless steel so i shouldnt have to worry about rust.. and ill be wrapping it dwn to the spipe passing the oil pan.. should keep the oil al tad cooler also
10-31-2007, 11:07 PM
#29
Originally Posted by DonNguyen
so weapon r and mmw are the same company?
Originally Posted by TCpete
im thinking about getting a 2.25 spipe made to bring back that TQ...which i think is what mmw should have done to begin with...
im also going to heat wrap the headers soon also.. they are stainless steel so i shouldnt have to worry about rust.. and ill be wrapping it dwn to the spipe passing the oil pan.. should keep the oil al tad cooler also
im also going to heat wrap the headers soon also.. they are stainless steel so i shouldnt have to worry about rust.. and ill be wrapping it dwn to the spipe passing the oil pan.. should keep the oil al tad cooler also
11-01-2007, 06:34 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by WhitetC21
My alphawerks header and cc spipe don't rattle or rasp at all with my hks. I drove my friend mmw header and hks axle back and I honeslt felt very little difference. Slightly more low end tq, but the top end pull was the same. Maybe my aw was alittle better, but its broken in slightly more, like 100 miles
How can you break in metal piping that is just straight through piping? I dont think you can...
11-01-2007, 09:25 PM
#37
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Where are you getting an exhaust leak from?
Also, what's the BEST way to check for an exhaust leak. I somewhat covered up the tailpipe and checked under the car. Didn't see anything. Is there a better way to check. I guess, now that it gets cold hear, I can just look under and see if I see any exhaust smoke?
Also, what's the BEST way to check for an exhaust leak. I somewhat covered up the tailpipe and checked under the car. Didn't see anything. Is there a better way to check. I guess, now that it gets cold hear, I can just look under and see if I see any exhaust smoke?
11-13-2007, 02:55 PM
#38
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I think one of the best ways is to turn the car on.. and move your hands over all the connections.. have someone rev it if possible also.. if you feel air hitting your hand.. then u have a leak.. u should also be using some kind of high temp sealent at connecting points.. to ensure no leaks are coming out also...
11-13-2007, 06:14 PM
#39
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^^^yeah i fixed the leak where the spipe connects to the mid pipe but i know i still have a minor leak on where the header meets the spipe. cant really be fixed by the sealant cz the header/engine vibrates and would only break the sealant. do you still have a leak on yours?