Is my motor blown?
#23
floating a valve is not the same as damaging the valve. If you float the valves (by revving extremely high) the engine will cut out and run poorly and drop rpm.. kinda like a natural rev limiter . While it is not great for the cam and lifter/followers since contact is lost and remade again (think of the lifter "bouncing" off the cam), it happening once is most likely not the cauase here. I know of cars that have had it happen tons of times with no issue. The valve simply cannot respond quick enough at high rpm and "floats".
Is the "ticking" sound like it is at engine (crank) speed or at 1/2 engine speed? That will give you an idea if it is down low or up top.
If you spun a bearing.. you would shell the engine shortly after that.
It is possible you damaged something on the cam or the crank. Here is one test for the rods:
Bring the rpm up steadilly to about 3000 rpm, then let off quickly. Many times you will hear a "back rattle" from the rod that is knocking when you do this.
Is the "ticking" sound like it is at engine (crank) speed or at 1/2 engine speed? That will give you an idea if it is down low or up top.
If you spun a bearing.. you would shell the engine shortly after that.
It is possible you damaged something on the cam or the crank. Here is one test for the rods:
Bring the rpm up steadilly to about 3000 rpm, then let off quickly. Many times you will hear a "back rattle" from the rod that is knocking when you do this.
#24
Thanks for the good info,
I have put almost a 100 miles on the car since the overrev and it does not seem to get any worse. I only drive it to work and back, I know I shouldn't be driving it but I need to get to work somehow and I had no time to go to a dealership yet. The ticking noise is there when the car idles and it gets louder as I rev the engine but not very loud. I will test for the rods today and will let you know.
I have put almost a 100 miles on the car since the overrev and it does not seem to get any worse. I only drive it to work and back, I know I shouldn't be driving it but I need to get to work somehow and I had no time to go to a dealership yet. The ticking noise is there when the car idles and it gets louder as I rev the engine but not very loud. I will test for the rods today and will let you know.
#25
Hmm...to hear the valves "stock" maybe there is some thing wrong BUT whith an after market header, why do the valves get so damn LOUD...lol
i swear in junk food drive throughs i hear the fan cutting in and out the low growl of my exhaust with slight popping(cat less) but above all TIKI TAKA TIKI TAKA TIKI TAKA of the valves could this be what he's hearing?
i swear in junk food drive throughs i hear the fan cutting in and out the low growl of my exhaust with slight popping(cat less) but above all TIKI TAKA TIKI TAKA TIKI TAKA of the valves could this be what he's hearing?
#27
well with aftermarket headers/exhaust of course you are going to be able to hear more of the engine sounds. But the reason why I can hear the ticking is because something is broken in my engine due to an overrev. I'll be taking the car to the dealership on Thursday.
#28
one over rev, i doubt the engines that weak. you might be over thinking every little noise. the scion doesn't record like a commercial plane, you drove it around all ready how long do you think it's recording. take no fault on a weak manufactured motor if it is though.
#29
if you downshift too far and completely over rev beyond the redline, yeah, you'll hurt the engine dude. doesn't matter who made it, how strong it is, the whole point of establishing a redline is to give you an idea of how car you can rev the engine.
#30
Originally Posted by ESEMRFOZZ13
one over rev, i doubt the engines that weak. you might be over thinking every little noise. the scion doesn't record like a commercial plane, you drove it around all ready how long do you think it's recording. take no fault on a weak manufactured motor if it is though.
#33
So I did the test for broken rods. Revved the engine slowly to 3k and then let off, I did not hear/feel any vibrations or rattling sounds. I guess my rods are ok, so it must be something in the head itself. Like a bent valve or a damaged cam. I am thinking if the dealer won't cover it under warranty, maybe I should just get a zpi stage1 short block. Then not only would that fix my engine but it would also get it ready for boost.
#36
If it runs fine you dont have a bent valve.
If you could not make it worse when doing what I mentioned, you either dont have a damaged rod bearing or it is not bad enough to really hear the difference.
I would say if anything it is on the top end, but like mentioned above, you may just be noticing more noises now that you are listening for them. I say drive it and see how it does. If it doesnt get worse then it is probably fine.
If you could not make it worse when doing what I mentioned, you either dont have a damaged rod bearing or it is not bad enough to really hear the difference.
I would say if anything it is on the top end, but like mentioned above, you may just be noticing more noises now that you are listening for them. I say drive it and see how it does. If it doesnt get worse then it is probably fine.
#37
I done this...I was crusing at 70 in fif gear. I wasnt racing but went to pass a slow **** truck and droped to what I thought was 4th, but with my super short shifter, I went into 2nd...I engaged...let off the clutch and was about to hammer on the gas but then BOOM!...It felt like the car hit a wall.
It did not go past the rev limiter. I damn near crapped myself though. I didnt pass the truck and kept looking in my rear view checking for scattered parts or fluid. I exited the freeway, pulled over and checked over the motor. All seemed fine with my eye. Took the car in to my friend at the dealer..Ran a few test and all seemed to be normal.
this happend I would say around 15000 miles ago and everything is running fine and I just hit 50000 miles last week......but the needle never went past the redline
It did not go past the rev limiter. I damn near crapped myself though. I didnt pass the truck and kept looking in my rear view checking for scattered parts or fluid. I exited the freeway, pulled over and checked over the motor. All seemed fine with my eye. Took the car in to my friend at the dealer..Ran a few test and all seemed to be normal.
this happend I would say around 15000 miles ago and everything is running fine and I just hit 50000 miles last week......but the needle never went past the redline
#39
if the car would have revved to over 8-10 grand....you would be pulling valves out of the piston. I had a friend that did that in his Integra...Motor swap LS-Vtec motor....dipstick didnt install any kind of EMS or rev limiter....he missed 2nd and revved to 10 grand and then POP....we pulled the motor and the valves melted into the pistons among other broken goodies.
I was lucky and was lil scared when I mis shifted in my tC...but alls good. I doubt that anything major happend to your tC
I was lucky and was lil scared when I mis shifted in my tC...but alls good. I doubt that anything major happend to your tC
#40
It may not have been 10k but it was over 8k that much I do know. The car runs fine if I drive it around town slowly, but once I attempt to drive the car in a more spirited fashion the lack of torque is appearant. The car now basically feels like its heavier. It feels like I have sandbags in my trunk. It feels like the engine has to work harder to reach the speed. The ticking sound is hard to notice when the car is idling outside but if I drive inside my garage the echo amplifies it and it is noticeable. I know it wasn't there before.