NA Dyno : 186.5 whp/ 190 tq...
#22
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At first, just the header sounded like ___. But then I put on that 18" Vibrant resonator and it sounded a little better... Couple nights later it sounded real bad, my dumb ___ forgot to tighten the bolts. Haha, got it fixed today, it's not too bad. Without the resonator, it sounds like a HONDERRRRR... But I'll work on the video and get it on here for you.
#24
And if you want real baller stuff, The BC stroker kit, custom 12 or 13:1 pistons and a standalone to tune it. You will be quicker than some turbo tC's. However, you will spend more money.
#27
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Some say higher, some say lower. Stimulating road conditions and rotational mass. It depends on how the dynos are set up.
I'll work on it tomorrow for everyone.
I got a mission for everyone. Find me the FS link for the Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams!
Found it! Emailed the guy.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...&highlight=cam
I'll work on it tomorrow for everyone.
I got a mission for everyone. Find me the FS link for the Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams!
Found it! Emailed the guy.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/sho...&highlight=cam
Last edited by chrischoi; 12-08-2009 at 03:26 AM.
#28
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Will I need this too?
http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0340
Can I run with the stock ECU with these cams?
http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0341
http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0340
Can I run with the stock ECU with these cams?
http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0341
#31
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Same here, If I could do just the cams for now, I'd be all on it.
I would eventually go with management and stuff later.
But if I have to have it all at once, I'll have to hold or just not do it...
Stage 3 said major modification...
So what is minor modification with the Stag 2?
And I can't have any downtime. Blah!
I would eventually go with management and stuff later.
But if I have to have it all at once, I'll have to hold or just not do it...
Stage 3 said major modification...
So what is minor modification with the Stag 2?
And I can't have any downtime. Blah!
#35
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Ok I am going to be the wet blanket.
First the nice stuff.
1. unless you want to build the head the only cams that you can run are the basic stage 2 cams from BC. When speaking with BC I was told that you could expect gains of 10-15hp {not clear if thats wheel or flywheel} but I am betting flywheel.
2. As for the intake manifold, EVERYONE is wating for Rob and World racing to actually post dynos. They are claiming 15-20whp gains on N/A but no proof at all....
3. With what you have now and a GOOD tune. You can see any where from 15-25whp gains depending on how good your tuner is.
4. Good tuning software being AEM EMS.. Greddy ultimate etc.
-----------------------------------------------------
All that being said.. I would REALLY check that dyno and run your car somewhere else.. I have never... ever... seen anyone get those numbers on bolt-ons. The best typically is 155-165 depending on hard parts, Mounts, ETD, etc. Check and see what kind of correction factors they were using cause thats 20WHP higher then the best that anyone with bolt ons has ever gotten.. If you can get those numbers at another shop.. then post up your exact mod list.. cause you will be jesus walking on water.. and YOUR set up will be the one to follow.
First the nice stuff.
1. unless you want to build the head the only cams that you can run are the basic stage 2 cams from BC. When speaking with BC I was told that you could expect gains of 10-15hp {not clear if thats wheel or flywheel} but I am betting flywheel.
2. As for the intake manifold, EVERYONE is wating for Rob and World racing to actually post dynos. They are claiming 15-20whp gains on N/A but no proof at all....
3. With what you have now and a GOOD tune. You can see any where from 15-25whp gains depending on how good your tuner is.
4. Good tuning software being AEM EMS.. Greddy ultimate etc.
-----------------------------------------------------
All that being said.. I would REALLY check that dyno and run your car somewhere else.. I have never... ever... seen anyone get those numbers on bolt-ons. The best typically is 155-165 depending on hard parts, Mounts, ETD, etc. Check and see what kind of correction factors they were using cause thats 20WHP higher then the best that anyone with bolt ons has ever gotten.. If you can get those numbers at another shop.. then post up your exact mod list.. cause you will be jesus walking on water.. and YOUR set up will be the one to follow.
Last edited by highvoltage1; 12-08-2009 at 06:55 PM.
#37
that's why I was wondering if a dynapak reads higher. cause the most I've seen from a bolt on tc was 160-165 from someone at ptunings dyno shoot out. but all he was missing (I think, not sure) was the pulleys but pulleys won't add THAT much. I think those numbers are pretty inflated or the dyno correction was mighty high
I also remember someone from puerto rico pulling those numbers but he had headwork, internals and intake manifold.
I also remember someone from puerto rico pulling those numbers but he had headwork, internals and intake manifold.
#38
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Dynapack is a load-brake dyno which does not use rollers (inertia dyno) like an MD or DJ. The front wheels come off and the vehicle is attached to the device. Dynapack reads the highest of all the major dynos; Dyno Dynamics, Mustang Dyno and Dynojet.
Your bolt-ons in no way, shape, form or fashion have you anywhere near the 200whp mark.
You would need to have extensive motor work done to get the 2AZFE motor to the 200 whp mark. It has been done but it costs a lot of time and money to still be shy of 200whp. An intake manifold will not help you, it looks nice but with no proof of any gains I don't think you should bank on it. Brian Crowder cams are also unproven, you pay for the name Crowder but there are no dyno's or any other type of statistical proof of power added, once again a waste.
What you now have is a baseline with bolt-ons, you are going to get people telling you that your numbers are horribly inflated and you should go to another dyno but if you're happy that's all that matters. Just don't for a second think you're putting 200whp to the ground you will be spanked by someone driving an SUV.
If you still wish to continue your NA build continue to use the same dyno to verify their gains if any.
Dynos should be used as tools for verification and correctness, not as a **** swinging tools.
FYI, with Strup 4-1 header, Magnaflow 2.5" Catback, Injen CAI, Invidia S-pipe, NST lightweight pulleys; I managed on a Mustang Dyno - 145hp/141tq which is roughly equivalent to Dynojet (non-load bearing) ~180hp/175tq which would have been slightly higher for a Dynapack.
It is difficult to gauge what whp would be from one dyno to the next and generally shouldn't be done but it is pretty well known that a Dynojet will read higher than a properly configured Mustang Dyno and Dyno Dynamics just due to the majority of Dynojets being non-load bearing and the Dynapack will read higher than the inertia based dynos.
Your bolt-ons in no way, shape, form or fashion have you anywhere near the 200whp mark.
You would need to have extensive motor work done to get the 2AZFE motor to the 200 whp mark. It has been done but it costs a lot of time and money to still be shy of 200whp. An intake manifold will not help you, it looks nice but with no proof of any gains I don't think you should bank on it. Brian Crowder cams are also unproven, you pay for the name Crowder but there are no dyno's or any other type of statistical proof of power added, once again a waste.
What you now have is a baseline with bolt-ons, you are going to get people telling you that your numbers are horribly inflated and you should go to another dyno but if you're happy that's all that matters. Just don't for a second think you're putting 200whp to the ground you will be spanked by someone driving an SUV.
If you still wish to continue your NA build continue to use the same dyno to verify their gains if any.
Dynos should be used as tools for verification and correctness, not as a **** swinging tools.
FYI, with Strup 4-1 header, Magnaflow 2.5" Catback, Injen CAI, Invidia S-pipe, NST lightweight pulleys; I managed on a Mustang Dyno - 145hp/141tq which is roughly equivalent to Dynojet (non-load bearing) ~180hp/175tq which would have been slightly higher for a Dynapack.
It is difficult to gauge what whp would be from one dyno to the next and generally shouldn't be done but it is pretty well known that a Dynojet will read higher than a properly configured Mustang Dyno and Dyno Dynamics just due to the majority of Dynojets being non-load bearing and the Dynapack will read higher than the inertia based dynos.
#39
that dyno reads way to high... based on your mods... theres no way u should be breaking even 180... even 175 is pushing it based on just what you listed.
the cams might help... but in all honesty.. unless you throw in higher compression pistons.. its going to be really hard to break 200. this is from my experience.. ive never seen anyone beat me @ 195 whp... and considering this was on the stock midpipe also and no tuning i can probably go back and reach 200 if i wanted to.
never the less good job so far but i would go to another dyno to confirm your numbers because they seem a little inflated.. unless you have a factory freak which is a good possibility
the cams might help... but in all honesty.. unless you throw in higher compression pistons.. its going to be really hard to break 200. this is from my experience.. ive never seen anyone beat me @ 195 whp... and considering this was on the stock midpipe also and no tuning i can probably go back and reach 200 if i wanted to.
never the less good job so far but i would go to another dyno to confirm your numbers because they seem a little inflated.. unless you have a factory freak which is a good possibility
#40
Well,
IMO, you want 200whp..
Do this:
A Good Cold air intake
Long tube headers
good 2.5 exhaust
Greddy emanage Ult
93 octane gas
AEM Water/Meth kit
BC stage 3 cams
Ported head
high comp pistons.
With this setup you should be able to hit the 225-250 WHP mark.
IMO putting a aem fic on a na car is pointless, The only benfit of this would be to smooth fuel map. Not going to gain you much. You need to be able to advance timing. When someone in the N/A world grows some ***** and stops listening to the next guy who says it cant be done.. Lemme know!
As you see TCpete did 195, he didint get there from everyone saying it cant be done. I highly doubt the op will go on with this because scionlife usually takes the fun out of it for everyone and says it cant be done!
If i wasint so far into my F/I build i would do a NA build. You think the all motor hondas running 11's are not advancing the timing? LOL. There on q16 race gas with double the timing we run OEM!
Grow some ***** step up! Prove SL WRONG
</RANT>
IMO, you want 200whp..
Do this:
A Good Cold air intake
Long tube headers
good 2.5 exhaust
Greddy emanage Ult
93 octane gas
AEM Water/Meth kit
BC stage 3 cams
Ported head
high comp pistons.
With this setup you should be able to hit the 225-250 WHP mark.
IMO putting a aem fic on a na car is pointless, The only benfit of this would be to smooth fuel map. Not going to gain you much. You need to be able to advance timing. When someone in the N/A world grows some ***** and stops listening to the next guy who says it cant be done.. Lemme know!
As you see TCpete did 195, he didint get there from everyone saying it cant be done. I highly doubt the op will go on with this because scionlife usually takes the fun out of it for everyone and says it cant be done!
If i wasint so far into my F/I build i would do a NA build. You think the all motor hondas running 11's are not advancing the timing? LOL. There on q16 race gas with double the timing we run OEM!
Grow some ***** step up! Prove SL WRONG
</RANT>
Last edited by ElevationTC; 12-08-2009 at 02:31 PM.