The way I thought about it was since the raceland's exhaust runners were biggish compared to other headers it would help with inertial scavenging at higher RPM. But it was purely theorectial. I would like to try my hand at making a good NA header for the car later on down the road.

Derek just wanted it because it was shiny haha.

You don't even have to use a complicated program or calculator to see that no TC exhaust times or baffles the reversion wave. Your right, they all suck and are purely cosmetic. So it's more an issue of which one sucks the least.

 

Nice work, would like to see the dyno run ;)

 

what you got to sell^ posted on thirteen different threads in as many minutes

 

Least his posts seem have meaningful unlike some of the idiots that postwhore so they can post in classifieds Great job on the build man, I love other people who take on the work themselves Guess I need to get around to doing a thread on my FI build one of these days Cant wait to see dyno numbers and maybe some track times down the road?

 

^man you too, how many people are going all motor now, i need to get moving on that block in the garage. OP good job would love to see some dyno numbers

 

btw what head gasket did you use?

 

You'll ____ a brick but an OEM MLS gasket made in.... Well I'll give you a guess :D. I've used them on everything from my own custom turbocharged Mercedes to my dad's big turbo 944 turbo(redundancy..). Never had a single problem and they hold boost/nitrous like a mother ____er.

EDIT:
Yea it will be dyno'd soon and I think we've found an innovative way to get around putting a standalone on the car as well. With the combination of the AEM F/IC's standalone like fuel control, MAF control and spark timing retard along with the Camcon VVT-i controller's +/- 20 degree intake cam control we should be able to fully tune the enigne for the cams. Out of money for the Camcon as of now but the dyno with just the F/IC modifying the fuel ratios on the stock timing curve will happen very very soon.

 

Nah Man Im "All Boost" for life lol - just saying I built mine for boost (9:1 comp) in my garage too Need to start a thread on it one of these days. Right now the tranny is off to replace the grenaded clutch

Oh and the clutch that grenaded was not stuck, but a Spec Stage 3 lol - the springs came out of the hub and went on an adventure

 

^victim of a comp clutch?

 

I'm boost guy as well. I just build and figure out what ever my friends want lol. Here's my actual car.

 

Actually a spec - rated at 400 crank tq - but I dunno what caused it for sure, of course Spec tells me "too much tq" which could be the case. It was street tuned, and the one time I put it on a dyno I had a problem with the boost controller - it only made 11.5 psi and it made 340wtq. It normally made 14.5-15 psi lol so Id assume I was prob close to 400wtq.

Also Max, thats one badass Benz - ever strapped it on the dyno??

 

When it was first done it was setup as a extremely mild setup to learn how the motor would do. It had a 2.5" exhaust, t3/60-1 garrett, and 2.25 intercooler piping at 10psi. That made 352whp and 366ft/lbs at 10-12psi on 10.2:1 compression. I lowered the compression to 8.0:1 via a .075" head spacer and made 499rwhp and 5xxftlbs of torque at 18-21psi. It's exhaust cam is bigger than the intake cam so it makes a lot of torque. I've since torn it down to put 8.5:1 Ross pistons in it and built the trans to Mclaren SLR spec to run it at about 550-600whp through a Precision PT6765.

Best part is it is tuned completely through an AEM F/IC :D

 

Haha I love it - Im also a big FIC fan - still running my car on it without issue! Once I get my new clutch in and bolt the tranny back up, Ill be pushing it up to 18-19 psi and going for mid 400's :D

 

want more pics or a build thread of the benz, looks sharp

 

Here it is the day I finished it at 8psi. I guess you can tell I didn't get to the wastegate pipe at that point :D I was a complete novice with the F/IC at the time and was running deep into the 10's before boost hence the 2500rpm's worth of lag.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHJfTVeXNAk

EDIT:

Here's the old dyno vid of it when it still had the 2.5" exhaust, 2.25 intercooler piping, CRX intercooler and when I lowered the compression to 8.0:1. Don't laugh at my PVC intake at the time haha. I think it makes 310 in this vid. Went to my friends dyno jet and made 20 more hp lol. The kid with the camera is the one who helped me carry the engine upstairs. It was pullin 60-110 in 3rd. It's got a 2.67 diff so it's a turd off the line but has great over taking pull.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dCFM0qa67o

 

Very interested in how you got the rx8 throttle body to work. I'm also doing an N/A build. Im in Knoxville tn and if I read that right you guys are from Louisville ky...???. If so I'd like to meetup to share some info if that's cool. I hope to see some good things come out of this build. good luck guys!

http://clubsciontc.com/forums/natura...a-build-35901/

 

Gonna go ahead and second that motion on figuring out how to get the rx-8 TB to work.

 

x3...can we please get more info on that, I'm assuming its bigger correct? nice build BTW....

 

Hmm my RX8 TB picture wasn't posted here well from the video you see we just drilled the rivets out of the rx8 TB that held the circuit board on and replaced it with the Scion TC circuitry. They are exactly the same in dimension and function but the RX8 TB electronics were apparently fried so it was unrepsonsive. That was the reason for the switch of circuitry.

As to how I mounted it I got a 4x4x1 piece of 6061 aluminum from onlinemetals.com for $33. I then made gasket templates by simply brushing black paint on the surfaces of the TB and Intake and pressing gasket material on there to make an outline. I cut the gaskets out with an exacto knife and traced their outlines and holes onto the metal starting with the RX-8 side. I used a 57mm hole saw to make the intake hole and rotated the piece on a 4" bench grinder to make a 'funnel' shape on the RX8 side to match it's 70mm size. After that I got a 1/4" tap set and drilled and taped the four RX-8 TB mounting bolts, drilling about 3/4" down into the metal. Then I moved on to the intake side which I had to be careful with because I made the adapter AFTER I put the damn engine and intake in. If I did it all over again I would have made the adapter first and made sure it fit 100% and THEN dropped in the engine and intake.

You have to be careful that you position the aluminum piece in a way that it doesn't conflict with the intake.

Despite the pic, I used 1/4-20 thread bolts instead of the studs. The nuts proved too hard to get on so I used allen socket bolts and lock washers.

We also bypassed the coolant lines that go to the TB and the fuel vapor thing.

 

awesome