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Old 02-21-2009 | 10:28 PM
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Default Nitrous

i'm trying to figure out where i can tap into my fuel line for the wet shot part of the nitrous system, i'm wondering if i'm gonna have to replace the hard line fuel line for a flex hose type? or is there somewhere i can tap into without removing the hard line.?
Old 02-21-2009 | 10:31 PM
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Default Re: Nitrous

Originally Posted by montyfire04
i'm trying to figure out where i can tap into my fuel line for the wet shot part of the nitrous system, i'm wondering if i'm gonna have to replace the hard line fuel line for a flex hose type? or is there somewhere i can tap into without removing the hard line.?
You can cut into the rubber line that comes off the hardline in the engine bay. Trace the fuel line from the rail and you can tap into that rubber line there.
Old 02-22-2009 | 12:44 AM
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^^There's your answer
Old 02-23-2009 | 05:35 AM
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so from the fuel rail it goes to the fuel damper then to hard line and bends towards the fire wall....so it the rubber hose near the firewall?
Old 02-23-2009 | 04:54 PM
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Yes. Use the rubber hose after the fuel damper
Old 02-23-2009 | 11:28 PM
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ok well heres the problem the line after the damper is a hard line that is pre-bent.
Old 02-24-2009 | 06:28 PM
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Well somewhere between the fuel rail and the firewall is going to be some rubber fuel line. Thats where you want to tap into it.
Old 02-24-2009 | 09:04 PM
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Dont worry about it guys , i figured it out. i just replaced the line that goes between the fuel damper and the actual hard line near the firewall... you see the one in between was a plastic hard line with quick releases on both ends and was sheathed in a rubber coating so i just replaced it. thanks for the help tho...one thing which sparks do u recommend that are one step colder than the laser iridium's i got in it now?
Old 02-24-2009 | 09:20 PM
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Basic rule of thumb, for every 75hp-100hp added, go 1 step colder. Other thing that some people go by is every modification, they do 1 step colder. Just my $0.02, trying to help lol
Old 02-25-2009 | 12:59 AM
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thanks ...tho it still doesn't answer my Question. so what sparks do u recommend?
Old 02-25-2009 | 04:19 PM
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I would go one step colder NGK plugs. Dont get platinum! If I were you, I would just go with the regular copper plug. They are cheap to replace if you foul one out. I have better luck with the regular plugs.

I dont have my catalog in front of me but the ones you want should have a "7" in the long NGK number. If you go to a parts store and tell them you want the colder plugs, just make sure when they give them to you, they have the 7 and not a 6. A common mistake with NGK is that the higher the number, the hotter the plug. THIS IS NOT TRUE. The higher the number, the colder the plug. So if he tries to give you a plug with a 6 in it, those are stock. I hope this made sense.
Old 02-25-2009 | 11:46 PM
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sweet deal thanks, i work at advance auto parts so i should be able to get my hands on some sparks. tho how does ur car run on the copper plugs for normal daily driving? cuz the stock ones are iridiums.
Old 02-26-2009 | 02:34 PM
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The cars I have done seem to run fine on copper plugs. I use them on everything I build from the xB's to the supras with no issues.
Old 02-26-2009 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by montyfire04
sweet deal thanks, i work at advance auto parts so i should be able to get my hands on some sparks. tho how does ur car run on the copper plugs for normal daily driving? cuz the stock ones are iridiums.
the only thing iridium is supposed to do is last longer. Other than that, there isn't any performance difference.
Old 03-04-2009 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by lastlookcustoms
I would go one step colder NGK plugs. Dont get platinum! If I were you, I would just go with the regular copper plug. They are cheap to replace if you foul one out. I have better luck with the regular plugs.

I dont have my catalog in front of me but the ones you want should have a "7" in the long NGK number. If you go to a parts store and tell them you want the colder plugs, just make sure when they give them to you, they have the 7 and not a 6. A common mistake with NGK is that the higher the number, the hotter the plug. THIS IS NOT TRUE. The higher the number, the colder the plug. So if he tries to give you a plug with a 6 in it, those are stock. I hope this made sense.
This is what I used on my h22 swapped accord. I know it's different than a tC but I am a loyal NGK customer. :D
Old 03-05-2009 | 03:45 AM
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sweet, now question 2. i got a A/F gauge...which one of the 4 wires on the O2 sensor would i tap into for the gauge?
Old 03-08-2009 | 09:53 PM
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Air Fuel Sensor
White- Sensor ground
Orange- Sensor positive
Yellow- Battery
Green- Heater

hope this helps. i go to school for auto tech so i get alldata which is a program where i can get pretty much anything for any car. so this info is off of the system wiring diagram
Old 03-09-2009 | 12:52 AM
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i got that program too i just couldn't decipher it cuz it showed the connector end but not enough details on it. thanks this helps.
Old 03-09-2009 | 04:47 AM
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Just fyi - you wont be able to tap into our primary 02 sensor - it uses a current sensing device rather than a change in voltage. Its VERY accurate (similar to any aftermarket wideband) but very unique in the way it works. The guages you buy that tap into the factory 02 sensor are designed to be tapped into a narrowband sensor like our secondary 02 - these have a nominal voltage when running stoich than deviate when running rich or lean but are not very accurate. Hope that helps!
Old 03-09-2009 | 01:50 PM
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so i the end it would be best to buy a wideband or the sensor in which the gauge should use?
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