top things to check before tuning


from universal magnetic on honda tech


:Everybody has there own way of starting a tune. I personally always check these things before starting any tune, they aren't in any order.

1. Compression: Mase is right, just cause little HT Johnny says the motor is 9:1 because that's what the JE piston box says, doesn't mean it's really 9:1. Also, compression will give you an idea of how good the mechanical condition of the motor is.

2. Synch Ignition Timing: I always make sure my Laptop is reading the same ignition values as the timing light shows @ the crank pulley. This is by far the step that can screw up a tune if missed.

3. Check Fluids: Always check oil and coolant levels all the time. Especially when tuning a daily driver car. Sometimes people don't take care of their cars!

4. Wiring: Especially when the owner does his own work wiring a boost cotroller or any type of extra sensor added to the existing harness.

5. Supporting Parts: Make sure you check and verify the right spark plug heat range, size of injectors, fuel pump, FPR, base fuel pressure, wastegate spring pressure, size of nitrous jets, etc. These parts need to be able to support the horsepower demands of the engine.

6. Fuel: Verify what octane level the fuel is, from 87-93 pump gas, or C16 leaded
race gas.

7. Wideband O2: Make sure the wideband your using is operating properly/accurately so you know your AFR numbers are where they should be to avoiding melting pistons.

 

wow this needs to be a sticky....somebody owes us an explanation as to why its not yet

 

I have been wondering that to its my life goal to have a sticky on a forum. lol..

probably isn't because this is the n/a section and I started this back when it was power hungry

 

good info, just watching and learning.

 

I'm calling STICKY!! This is a very useful thread for those wanting to run N2O.

 

nice check list from http://www.evans-tuning.com/checklist.html


TUNING CHECKLIST
Here is a list of things you must check and re-check before coming for a tuning appointment.

Electrical Issues
Wiring—The engine harness should have NO exposed wires. Also, DO NOT twist and tape wires together. Take the time to solder them!
Codes—Do not come for an appointment if you a check engine light on.
Battery/Alternator—Make sure they are strong and not failing. Your appointment will be cut short and you will not have a full tune!
Fuel Pumps—DO NOT install the pumps if there is dirt, debris, or rust in the tank. If there is rust in the tank, replace it. You will starve the engine of fuel if you leave junk in the tank.

Mechanical Issues

Engine—What is a healthy engine???
Compression test results should be as follows:
8:1-8.5:1 compression: 150-170 psi per cylinder
8.5:1~9.5:1 compression: 170-210 psi per cylinder
9.5:1~11:1 compression: 210-275 psi per cylinder
11:1+ compression: 250+ per cylinder (highly depends on cams being used)
DO NOT have more than 20psi variance between cylinders. It is not ok to come for an appointment where there are 3 cylinders that have good compression and one that doesn’t. The 3 good don’t make up for the one bad.


Turbo Systems
Make sure you have secured your pipes so that they do not blow off at a tuning appointment. If the pipes aren’t blowing off on some of the 600+whp cars that I’m tuning then they shouldn’t on the 250-300whp cars either.
Make sure all of the bolts are tightened, in particular, the exhaust manifold bolts. This is considered an exhaust leak and you will lose power as a result.
Make sure the o2 sensor hole is big enough to fit the common wideband sensors.
Make sure the blow off valve is tight. Do you want it to sound “cool” or work properly?
Be sure to use the proper oil feed and return lines and that they are installed properly.
Turbo shaft play. Don’t expect that you can come to an appointment and make 500hp with a turbo that is shot. Get it rebuilt or buy a new one!
LS/VTEC—Under no circumstance should you use a –6 oil feed line from the block to the cylinder head. Maximum of –4, but a –3 is preferred.
LS/VTEC—DO NOT USE brass tees inline to feed an oil pressure guage, turbo oil feed line, and LS/VTEC line. There’s too much volume and not enough pressure. Say goodbye to VTEC!

OBD Conversions

What you'll need to go from OBD-2 to OBD-1 are the following:

OBD-2 to OBD-1 conversion harness
OBD-1 ECU such as p28/p30/p72/p75/p06/etc
OBD-1 injector clips if going with aftermarket fuel injectors

Miscellaneous
I have a Dynapack Dyno. I take the wheels off of your car to tune the car. Do not come to the appointment without the wheel lug key if you have locking wheel lugs.
Bring extra spark plugs if you don’t want to pay for them. New spark plugs are NOT included in the tuning rate.
Make sure all fluid levels are up to par. No oil, no engine. No coolant, overheating issue.
Bleed the coolant system before you come for the appointment. If your car is overheating, DO NOT come for the appointment. I cannot tune a car that is overheating.
Make sure you have brakes on the car that are suited for your power level. I street tune every car after tuning on the dyno and I should feel safe riding in your car. It goes fast it needs to stop fast!

If you are experiencing any or all of these problems and want to know how to fix them, please refer to the following thread: http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=1635

If after reading this you still don’t have the answer you are looking for, make a post about your issue on the forum and get some advice. If you still don’t get the answer you are looking for, send me an email at tech@evans-tuning.com

Our job is to tune your car, not fix everything that is wrong with it. If you come to an appointment with a car that is not working properly you may be asked to leave depending upon the severity of the issue. If the problem is minor enough to be fixed at the shop during the day, we can fix it, but NOT FOR FREE. You wouldn’t work for free and neither should we!

 

BAM! bookmarked.

 

This should be a sticky or something

 

stickyyyyy.....*bookmark*!

 

Q: Are there benefits to using nitrous with turbo or supercharger applications?

A: Absolutely! In turbo applications, turbo lag is completely eliminated with the addition of a nitrous system. In addition, both turbo and superchargers compress the incoming air, thus heating it. With the injection of nitrous, a tremendous intercooling effect reduces intake charge temperatures by 75 degrees or more. Boost is usually increased as well; adding to even more power.*see...told ya *


you say that with the addition of the NOS system the turbo lag is completely eliminated....is that when you actually use the NOS or just when u drive normally?

can you explain please? thank you

 

Only when the nitrous is used, obviously. It'd have no other effect if the bottle isn't open and you don't push the button. You can though use the nitrous and push the button on WOT off the line, and near eliminate lag while the the turbo spools and have decent take off. No the turbo lag isn't completely eliminated, it still has to spool. It just doesn't seem like there is spool time since you are replacing the lag time with a shot of nitrous. It's still there, just shorter and for the most part unnoticed with a shot. It can cause problems quicker if abused with a turbo though. Much quicker. I've read in many forums that generally: If you are on boost, stay off the bottle!

 

just get the new Zex kit for the tC and you don't have to worry about anything

 

the Zex kit for the tC wasn't meant for boost.

 

so if your not boosted its a great kit from what i hear

 

oh yes. without boost its one of the better i've seen. pretty safe if you dont go crazy with it.

 

thumbs up for nitrous

but if you are going to do it do it right

colder plugs, fuel and a computer at least

 

is this this window switch you guys are talking about?
http://dagostinoracing.com/index.php...oducts_id=7469