FIREDOG

and for 1500 that includes blowdown tubes (if a valve leakes is shoots the nitrous to the oustide of the car,so you dont get high :-)....cause thats all that will happen you wont blow up and be covered in green flames, i promise....)...and a remote valve opener(which means no figiting required), and nitrous dosnt work in the push button method you think it does....the button engages the nitrous and you have pre set rpm stages so ..the nos will only spray at WOT (the pedal to the floor) and at the set rpm stages to prevent wheel spin...plus in that 1500 is a dual purge system with led's to light up the smoke...

FIREDOG

please anymore discussion or input is greatly appreciated, i really want to learn more ......
so if i want to run a 75 shot i should get bigger injectors?...will i need a tune for that, and if i do bigger injectors and have it tuned thats gonna kill my gas mileage right?

ps. i love nitrous just cause the power is not always there....its there when i want it, great gas mileage when i dont

Neothin

your going to be completely fine running a 75 shot on stock everything (though i recommend an aftermarket intake and header to help air get in and out of the engine more quickly). There are 2 tC's that i know of in orlando that have been running it for a good amount of time.

The only "tuning" that you'll have to worry about is choosing the right nitrous and fuel jets. I dont recommend you do this without the aid of a dyno equipped with a wideband O2 sensor. Start with a small nitrous jet and a large fuel jet and then dyno. keep switching out the jets until you find the combination that gives you the power your looking for (don't go crazy... but just say 75 horsepower more than when your off the bottle) while maintaining good AFR's (10.5-13 is what i have seen normally) throughout the rpm band.

remember, with a wet system, the computer never realizes that extra oxygen and fuel is being put into the intake charge (because everything is injected after the MAF sensor). If the jets are wrong, the computer is not going to be able to save anything. This is why it's so critical to get a good shop to choose your jets for you while testing on a dyno w/ a wideband.

FIREDOG

fuel jets are injectors right?...a good shop will do all this tuning, so i dont actually need a wideband for my car right?...or do you still recommend one?..do you know of a shop that will do this in the tampa/orlando area?..how much should they charge?

i dont understand the wideband....i know it tells you if your running to rich or lean, but isnt it just telling you....how do you actually adjust the problem?..

FIREDOG

bump, cause i wanna learn more! all opinions welcome!

FIREDOG

bump

Neothin

wideband tells you the air/fuel ratio.. aka x number of air molecules to x number of fuel molecules. example, a 11/1 afr = 11 air molecules for every fuel molecule. the smaller the ratio, ex 9/1, the richer the car runs. when the car is leaning out, the ratio is larger, ex 13/1.

the shop dyno will have a wideband, and the hsop will play around with the jetting giving you the power you want at the afr's you need to be safe. after the tuning of hte jets, you dont technically need a wideband gauge, because yeah... the jets arent going to change, so the afr's will remain the same. IT'S NEVER A BAD IDEA TO HAVE ONE ANYWAYS. it's ajust in case thing. i mean... what if a solenoid goes bad and the fuel cuts off... lots of nitrous, not enough fuel, super lean, car engine goes boom. if you have a wideband, you'd see the lean condition and let off hte gas and turn off the nitrous.

there's a couple of shops in and around orlando that'll tune the car. Titan motorsports is big in the supra world and is offa SR50 on goldenrod. Central Florida Turbo is another good tuning shop. they've got several cars running 4, 5, and more hundred horsepower everyday.

Butane

No nitric oxide is not safe for our cars in any way.

FIREDOG

when i get the tune i know my car will be spitting more fuel to compensate for the nitrous, but what about when im not running nitrous will it affect my cars idle or kill my gas mileage?...if so any other options like a fuel management system?.....
ps. a little off topic but will a tune up my hp on a stock engine with no actual upgrades?

Neothin

your not understanding... the cars computer doesnt k now that nitrous is being run when you use a wet system. The nitrous and fuel jets are located after the MAF sensor. The engine doesnt know what's going on pretty much.

Because of this, you'll be running like stock when your off the bottle.

tC-Collin

im not getting it, i HATED chem. lol

Neothin

nitrous oxide is n20, n02 is something completely different.

tC-Collin

a tune messes around with the air-feul ratio so unless youre boosted, not by much. you see a better finished product because tuning a boosted car deals with messing with the PSI. this kid who thinks hes a gearhead at my school tuned his civic was bragging about a 10 hp gain (he also lost about 10 MPG). then another kid tuned his 1.8t jetta and had a 35hp gain

but it gives you horrible gas milage, fyi

Neothin

as i said before... no fuel management of the tC's computer is needed. you tune by the fuel/nitrous jet choices

tC-Collin

ohhh, NO2 is nitric oxide, i get it now. ok continue

TC_by_TRD

hey man if you get a NOS brand system you need a .41 nitrous jet and .36 fuel dude thats the combo for a 75 shot jus search up in google nitrous jets calculater and the bottle pressure is bout 1000psi and the fuel pressure 45psi it should tell you your jets and all that stuff man if you need any nmore help pm me im running nos on my car a 75 wetshot.

FIREDOG

bump

TC_by_TRD

you dont need any injector upgrade but you do need an aftermarket intake cause the plastic one is not good if you dont want to spend alot of money jus get one from ebay for like 40 bucks and that hold the nitrous perfect.

FIREDOG

bump

jayjay

Yeah thought i let you know i scored a zex kit from ptuning.com it was on sale for 550 then i called the 1-800# Zex hooked me up with zex spark plugs.It doesnt totally eliminate the possibility of detonation but it helps.Cuz iridium plugs burn very hot to ignite the fuel which pushes the piston down,thats basicly how motors work. With detonation the motor gets so hot from the friction of the piston working faster than they are used to, And timing is advanced to bring quicker sparks to the ignition and the sparkplug will start to become constanly hot and turn in to a glow plug instead of a spark plug. This will cause the firing order of pistons to fire when it isnt supposed to. Thats what detonation is. In my words . But of course someone here in SL is going to talk $HIT and say that I am wrong but whatever.I know i installed my own $hit by reading the instructions over and over till it all made sense. And yes it works 55shot for 6 months.It feels wrong to have the power at a flip of the arming switch. Any more ? firedawg let me know . PEACE OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!