NOS!!!
#21
its just alotta money for that much trouble.
dont let us affect your decision...but you did ask out opinions
all throttle, no bottle. just like saying
little boys use the bottle, real men get blown
dont let us affect your decision...but you did ask out opinions
all throttle, no bottle. just like saying
little boys use the bottle, real men get blown
#23
there are a couple of things you have to look in to what is the compretion ratio of that corolla -s your friend messed up how well does the car handel boost is it like the tc where it runs fine on around 8psi? also in what gear and and what speed was he spraying? how large of a shot was he using? did he retard his ignition 1 degree for every 20 hp over a 35 shot? and was it a good kit that monitored WOT and fule presure and bottle presure to keep the car from running to ritch or to lean? if he had checked in to all of this he probly wouldnt have had any of the problems he has now one of my friends that ownes his own shop has a focus svt running a 75hp shot he tracks it alot and also runs it on the street and it has been fine for 1 and a 1/2 years
there are alot of things to look in to before you decide to do this and saddly enough most companys dont tell you all of these things they just sell you a kit and tell you to slap it on
there are alot of things to look in to before you decide to do this and saddly enough most companys dont tell you all of these things they just sell you a kit and tell you to slap it on
#24
He was running a 75 shot. NX says that you do not have to retard the timing, they said that is all a bunch of horse crap that the shops try to sell you extra. He just used the wrong spark plugs, thats why it went boom.
#27
Originally Posted by aarontrini85
^ that was the biggest bs i have ever seen in a movie lol
#28
i also dont see any cars with full systems and playstations in them running any where near an 8 sec. 1/4 mile in fact i dont thing there are many cars with nice interiors running below 10's what a bs movie it was intresting but maid ever thing to dramatic and fake but thats what movies are for i guess
#29
Originally Posted by florencescion
Be careful how much "naws" you use because you might blow the wleds on your intake or worse yet... you'll lose your floorpans!!
That was great.... I almost forgot that stupid part of an even more stupid movie!!!! :-)
#30
those guys couldn't run an 8 second 1/8th mile in those bling wagons
They had some cool looking cars.... but the people involved in making that movie knew NOTHING about cars or racing. It fits right in there with Biker Boyz and Torque.
They had some cool looking cars.... but the people involved in making that movie knew NOTHING about cars or racing. It fits right in there with Biker Boyz and Torque.
#31
Originally Posted by engifineer
those guys couldn't run an 8 second 1/8th mile in those bling wagons
They had some cool looking cars.... but the people involved in making that movie knew NOTHING about cars or racing. It fits right in there with Biker Boyz and Torque.
They had some cool looking cars.... but the people involved in making that movie knew NOTHING about cars or racing. It fits right in there with Biker Boyz and Torque.
#32
^ lol but the fast and the furious deserves a little more credit it did get more peaple in to car modding wait never mind it jacked up the price of the supra f-ck that movie i had plans on buying one till that movie came out and pushed it out of my price range and also it got peaple around here to make the supras look dumb as all hell i hate when the have aluminum wings and decals no car needs stickers if any things a list to let peaple know what there is to steal off the car
#33
Originally Posted by aarontrini85
^ lol but the fast and the furious deserves a little more credit it did get more peaple in to car modding wait never mind it jacked up the price of the supra f-ck that movie i had plans on buying one till that movie came out and pushed it out of my price range and also it got peaple around here to make the supras look dumb as all hell i hate when the have aluminum wings and decals no car needs stickers if any things a list to let peaple know what there is to steal off the car
#35
Originally Posted by florencescion
Originally Posted by engifineer
those guys couldn't run an 8 second 1/8th mile in those bling wagons
They had some cool looking cars.... but the people involved in making that movie knew NOTHING about cars or racing. It fits right in there with Biker Boyz and Torque.
They had some cool looking cars.... but the people involved in making that movie knew NOTHING about cars or racing. It fits right in there with Biker Boyz and Torque.
Also, about the supras.... ever since that movie I have seen people selling worn out supras on ebay claiming all kinds of horsepower... my favorite was one I saw a few weeks ago. "650 HP" for $4900. Yeeeeeaaahhhhhh what he had was a supra with a nearly trashed engine he was trying to pawn off on some fast and the furious addict kiddy with no clue..... I would have loved to buy a supra to build... but like you guys said, the movie jacked up the price on the ones worth buying... but we can just all wait till those idiots tear theirs up due to cheap builds and poor driving and buy them cheap
And on the subject of these idiotic movies... who do they think acts like these people??? Like the "i get the money.. and the respect" lines in fast and crapious and the stupid assed people in the other two movies mentioned. I am pretty sure you would get your ___ beat for even acting that stupid!! But the movies are fun to laugh at anyway!
#37
Originally Posted by engifineer
those guys couldn't run an 8 second 1/8th mile in those bling wagons
They had some cool looking cars.... but the people involved in making that movie knew NOTHING about cars or racing. It fits right in there with Biker Boyz and Torque.
They had some cool looking cars.... but the people involved in making that movie knew NOTHING about cars or racing. It fits right in there with Biker Boyz and Torque.
Originally Posted by LucidBD
NAWZ!!!! Too soon junior!!
Originally Posted by florencescion
Be careful how much "naws" you use because you might blow the wleds on your intake or worse yet... you'll lose your floorpans!!
For the record, I enjoyed FF and Torque, but I've been known to enjoy mindless entertainment like Space Ghost Coast to Coast, and Teen Hunger Aqua Force. I guess its because I don’t read into much, I try to enjoy it for it is, or isn’t, lol.
Oh, and lets not forget "...and a Motec System exhaust." LOL!
#40
I always like the dont use nitrous comments....
Then dont buy a kit. The simple fact of the matter is, most people making those comments have never used nitrous in there lives let alone run quicker than 15 seconds in the 1/4 mile. So that usually means they no NOTHING about going fast and NOTHING about nitrous oxide either.
Here's the plain simple truth -
Any modification can damage your engine if its not used or installed correctly.
You have to pay to play, if your not interesting in paying leave your car stock and be happy with going slowly or by a motorcycle and go play in traffic.
Nitrous is an excellent for those with LIMITED aftermarket options for increasing power. You can go spend $200-300 for that CAI, $200-300 for that DC header and $500-600 for any aftermarket exhaust system you want. But I'll eat you alive with a simple 50hp nitrous kit.
Period end of story.
Even an Automatic TC would whoop **** with nitrous.
You can research all you want but the basics still apply. READ THE DIRECTIONS and ALWAYS GET HELP FROM SOMEBODY THAT KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING IF YOU DONT KNOW YOURSELF. If all else fails, call CUSTOMER SERVICE.
Dont ask your buddy who THINKS he knows about nitrous. He'll do nothing but provide you with information that will either blow your car up or make you go slower than expected.
After installing and selling nitrous for the last 10 years or so, I know a thing or two about the stuff and I have NEVER, EVER blown up my engine or anybody else's on it. I plenty of PROOF just ask..
For all those that have NEVER USED or INSTALLED NITROUS, I recommend getting a ZEX Wet Kit. Its the EASIEST wet kit to install on the market.
Anybody that has used nitrous before or has installation skills above "shadetree" and owns a proper set of tools, can go with NX's or NOS's wet kits.
Unless you like overpaying for stuff, stay far away from Venom kits. Their kits are NO better or safer than anybody else's kit. The VCN-2000 has closed loop nitrous control, but for that much money, you can get a better nitrous controller and use more nitrous per use than with Venon products.
Just in case you think I'm kidding buy a Venom kit and I'll bet you $100 cash it won't be faster than the same car equipped with a kit that cost several hundred less.
I highly recommend a bottle heater because nitrous loves to operate between 1000-1200psi, not the 900psi NOS recommends. 900psi is still on the richer side of tuning and with a variable presssure controlled bottle heater you'll always be in the sweet spot for nitrous operation. Then again a heater is better than none at all, so if you can't afford a good heater like Arc Heat's, Nitrous Express' or NOS's variable bottle heaters, then get ANY bottle heater! Dynotune sells a reasonably priced unit. You should find it on Ebay for around $120. You can get NOS's old style bottle heater set at 900psi for about $120 also.
I would also install a nitrous pressure gauge, as that's really the only gauge you need for nitrous. Fuel Pressure is another good gauge if you like to monitor your system.
The pressure gauge will tell you several things about your nitrous system's state of operation. Including if your bottle is JUST ABOUT EMPTY. The most important it tells you if you need to turn on your bottle heater or NOT. I set NX and Archeat bottle heaters to come on with the included switch because it cycles between 1000-1050psi (Arc's are adjustable) and doesnt need to be on at all times. Basically if its less than 90 degrees outside your bottle heater should be ON, unless its exposed to direct sunlight which is SHOULDNT in a TC, in which case you need to MONITOR bottle pressure. A bottle mounted gauge is OKAY, but a Pod or hidden and more accurate gauge is better.
For all you scaredy cats out there, 50-75hp is plenty.
With progressive control, you can use 100-125hp with ease if your full pump is up too it. Progressively controlled nitrous is like traction control for forced induction.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND the purchase of some BFG or Dunlop DRAG RADIALS.
Why?
You you expect hit-**** ET's out of your stock tires or even non drag radial tires your in for a shock. Your 17" tires won't hold over 200lbs of torque when you snap that bottle open out of the hole (using nitrous in 1st gear out of the hole nets best ET's), so you need some grippier tires with some leyway.
There's no reason a BONE stock TC can't run 14's with a 50hp shot and 13's with a 75hp shot.
I got dead stock Neon automatics running low 15's spinning in 1st gear. Doesn't sound impressive? It does when that same car runs high 17's off the bottle.
If a stock TC runs mid 15's, then 50hp will knock your ET's down to the 14's provided you know how to DRIVE and you have decent traction. BFG's on 50hp shot will net 1.9 60ft times with some practice. Don't cheap out and get Azenis those are AUTOCROSS tires, not drag racing tires.
Install it properly and you'll be like many others out there than use nitrous, run quicky and have so on the same ENGINE the car came with and with well over 300 nitrous quarter mile passes in some cases.
Just be smart about it and will give you no problems.
I recommend -
The Nitrous Works - kits run about $500 complete add a Max Pack bottle heater kit for $200 more - http://www.barrygrant.com/nitrous/default.aspx
Nitrous Express - Can be found around the net for under $600 and around $800 with GenX Upgrade - http://www.nitrousexpress.com
ZEX - Simple to install nitrous kits (Wet systems for TC's as they dont have a RETURN STYLE fuel system) - www.zex.com
Now let's see some TC's on the bottle. If bottles are for babbies than I rather be on the bottle than fork out who knows how much for a supercharger kit or turbo kit that don't even exist yet. Plus what's better than TURBO + NITROUS or Supercharger + Nitrous...
Happy Hunting
Then dont buy a kit. The simple fact of the matter is, most people making those comments have never used nitrous in there lives let alone run quicker than 15 seconds in the 1/4 mile. So that usually means they no NOTHING about going fast and NOTHING about nitrous oxide either.
Here's the plain simple truth -
Any modification can damage your engine if its not used or installed correctly.
You have to pay to play, if your not interesting in paying leave your car stock and be happy with going slowly or by a motorcycle and go play in traffic.
Nitrous is an excellent for those with LIMITED aftermarket options for increasing power. You can go spend $200-300 for that CAI, $200-300 for that DC header and $500-600 for any aftermarket exhaust system you want. But I'll eat you alive with a simple 50hp nitrous kit.
Period end of story.
Even an Automatic TC would whoop **** with nitrous.
You can research all you want but the basics still apply. READ THE DIRECTIONS and ALWAYS GET HELP FROM SOMEBODY THAT KNOWS WHAT THEY ARE DOING IF YOU DONT KNOW YOURSELF. If all else fails, call CUSTOMER SERVICE.
Dont ask your buddy who THINKS he knows about nitrous. He'll do nothing but provide you with information that will either blow your car up or make you go slower than expected.
After installing and selling nitrous for the last 10 years or so, I know a thing or two about the stuff and I have NEVER, EVER blown up my engine or anybody else's on it. I plenty of PROOF just ask..
For all those that have NEVER USED or INSTALLED NITROUS, I recommend getting a ZEX Wet Kit. Its the EASIEST wet kit to install on the market.
Anybody that has used nitrous before or has installation skills above "shadetree" and owns a proper set of tools, can go with NX's or NOS's wet kits.
Unless you like overpaying for stuff, stay far away from Venom kits. Their kits are NO better or safer than anybody else's kit. The VCN-2000 has closed loop nitrous control, but for that much money, you can get a better nitrous controller and use more nitrous per use than with Venon products.
Just in case you think I'm kidding buy a Venom kit and I'll bet you $100 cash it won't be faster than the same car equipped with a kit that cost several hundred less.
I highly recommend a bottle heater because nitrous loves to operate between 1000-1200psi, not the 900psi NOS recommends. 900psi is still on the richer side of tuning and with a variable presssure controlled bottle heater you'll always be in the sweet spot for nitrous operation. Then again a heater is better than none at all, so if you can't afford a good heater like Arc Heat's, Nitrous Express' or NOS's variable bottle heaters, then get ANY bottle heater! Dynotune sells a reasonably priced unit. You should find it on Ebay for around $120. You can get NOS's old style bottle heater set at 900psi for about $120 also.
I would also install a nitrous pressure gauge, as that's really the only gauge you need for nitrous. Fuel Pressure is another good gauge if you like to monitor your system.
The pressure gauge will tell you several things about your nitrous system's state of operation. Including if your bottle is JUST ABOUT EMPTY. The most important it tells you if you need to turn on your bottle heater or NOT. I set NX and Archeat bottle heaters to come on with the included switch because it cycles between 1000-1050psi (Arc's are adjustable) and doesnt need to be on at all times. Basically if its less than 90 degrees outside your bottle heater should be ON, unless its exposed to direct sunlight which is SHOULDNT in a TC, in which case you need to MONITOR bottle pressure. A bottle mounted gauge is OKAY, but a Pod or hidden and more accurate gauge is better.
For all you scaredy cats out there, 50-75hp is plenty.
With progressive control, you can use 100-125hp with ease if your full pump is up too it. Progressively controlled nitrous is like traction control for forced induction.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND the purchase of some BFG or Dunlop DRAG RADIALS.
Why?
You you expect hit-**** ET's out of your stock tires or even non drag radial tires your in for a shock. Your 17" tires won't hold over 200lbs of torque when you snap that bottle open out of the hole (using nitrous in 1st gear out of the hole nets best ET's), so you need some grippier tires with some leyway.
There's no reason a BONE stock TC can't run 14's with a 50hp shot and 13's with a 75hp shot.
I got dead stock Neon automatics running low 15's spinning in 1st gear. Doesn't sound impressive? It does when that same car runs high 17's off the bottle.
If a stock TC runs mid 15's, then 50hp will knock your ET's down to the 14's provided you know how to DRIVE and you have decent traction. BFG's on 50hp shot will net 1.9 60ft times with some practice. Don't cheap out and get Azenis those are AUTOCROSS tires, not drag racing tires.
Install it properly and you'll be like many others out there than use nitrous, run quicky and have so on the same ENGINE the car came with and with well over 300 nitrous quarter mile passes in some cases.
Just be smart about it and will give you no problems.
I recommend -
The Nitrous Works - kits run about $500 complete add a Max Pack bottle heater kit for $200 more - http://www.barrygrant.com/nitrous/default.aspx
Nitrous Express - Can be found around the net for under $600 and around $800 with GenX Upgrade - http://www.nitrousexpress.com
ZEX - Simple to install nitrous kits (Wet systems for TC's as they dont have a RETURN STYLE fuel system) - www.zex.com
Now let's see some TC's on the bottle. If bottles are for babbies than I rather be on the bottle than fork out who knows how much for a supercharger kit or turbo kit that don't even exist yet. Plus what's better than TURBO + NITROUS or Supercharger + Nitrous...
Happy Hunting