"Official" Wire Tuck Thread.
#41
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you sure about that?
ive got the eyebolts in the stock seatbelt locations so i feel pretty safe with that.
and also takatas dont have loopholes like many other harnesses so then id have to buy 3-bar adjuster rings...
ive got the eyebolts in the stock seatbelt locations so i feel pretty safe with that.
and also takatas dont have loopholes like many other harnesses so then id have to buy 3-bar adjuster rings...
#42
yea im pretty sure, if i can remember right its the angle thats more important, the harness bar puts it at the right angle.
also you can feel safe but you'll never really know how safe you are until you need them
also you can feel safe but you'll never really know how safe you are until you need them
#44
here is how you do it hoodie..
first thing ur gonna have to do is pick up the metal bender and flaring tool to make all these new lines... your going to have to probably drain the system and create ALL new lines with new bends...
take the ABS unit and fab a box of the same size.
go underneath your dash and or take out your waterfall and radio and look back... there is a large gapped area behind the fire wall where you can make a custom bracket large enought to fit the ABS unit.
mount the abs unit there and now mark and area were your lines can be routed from inside the engine bay, through the firewall and onto the mounted abs unit... USE THE BOX I SAID TO MAKE FOR REFERENCE OF SIZE AND CLEARANCE.
from there you will need to now REDO ALLL your abs lines 1 by 1 from the MC down to the new hole you will be making into the firewall that will lead you str8 to the ABS unit... please make a large enough hole where u can cover the cut metal with some kind of hard rubber grummet which i know a few u can use...
re wire the abs unit inside from the wires in the engine harness...
refil your MC
and boom.. your ABS unit is now tucked under the dash on the firewall protected and still qoo% functional..
if you need a diagram LMK and ill make it for you...
there is no room by the driver side of the firewall... so keep in mind u will be drilling either right in the middle or going towards the passenger side of the fire in which the area behind is empty...
JESUS HAS SPOKEN ...
first thing ur gonna have to do is pick up the metal bender and flaring tool to make all these new lines... your going to have to probably drain the system and create ALL new lines with new bends...
take the ABS unit and fab a box of the same size.
go underneath your dash and or take out your waterfall and radio and look back... there is a large gapped area behind the fire wall where you can make a custom bracket large enought to fit the ABS unit.
mount the abs unit there and now mark and area were your lines can be routed from inside the engine bay, through the firewall and onto the mounted abs unit... USE THE BOX I SAID TO MAKE FOR REFERENCE OF SIZE AND CLEARANCE.
from there you will need to now REDO ALLL your abs lines 1 by 1 from the MC down to the new hole you will be making into the firewall that will lead you str8 to the ABS unit... please make a large enough hole where u can cover the cut metal with some kind of hard rubber grummet which i know a few u can use...
re wire the abs unit inside from the wires in the engine harness...
refil your MC
and boom.. your ABS unit is now tucked under the dash on the firewall protected and still qoo% functional..
if you need a diagram LMK and ill make it for you...
there is no room by the driver side of the firewall... so keep in mind u will be drilling either right in the middle or going towards the passenger side of the fire in which the area behind is empty...
JESUS HAS SPOKEN ...
#45
BTW... the brake resivior.. u can either leave it and run a longer line.. or attempt to tuck under the dash but i would do that.. i would just run the longer lines and re do them.
and i dont know what your plans are for power steering and the power steering tank.. but ur kinda screwed there also lol
and i dont know what your plans are for power steering and the power steering tank.. but ur kinda screwed there also lol
#46
Originally Posted by yellowxhoodie
Originally Posted by davedavetC
youre going to have to get new lines fabbed up, and unless you do it yourself it will cost a lot. you cant just bend and move those.
#48
braided lines give way to much flex and u have a bigger chance of failing and rupturing under harsh conditions then metal lines.
i checked now to make sure theres room and there is.. anywhere behind the motor where no one will see the lines enter the cabin should work. and your welcome bro lol its the least i can do fo what do did lol... the flaring tool isnt to pricey but it takes time to master correctly.. on youtube theres plenty of vids showing you how to do it.
i checked now to make sure theres room and there is.. anywhere behind the motor where no one will see the lines enter the cabin should work. and your welcome bro lol its the least i can do fo what do did lol... the flaring tool isnt to pricey but it takes time to master correctly.. on youtube theres plenty of vids showing you how to do it.
#49
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word.
i gotta unbolt the pass side motor mount tonight to tuck the last bit of wires. other than that the only thing left on that side is the brake isht cuz i just took out the power steering last night. lol
ill prob put it back somewhere else, i was thinking glovebox for power steering fluid reservior and the ABS isht but then i need to find somewhere to put the EMS...hmmmm.
i gotta unbolt the pass side motor mount tonight to tuck the last bit of wires. other than that the only thing left on that side is the brake isht cuz i just took out the power steering last night. lol
ill prob put it back somewhere else, i was thinking glovebox for power steering fluid reservior and the ABS isht but then i need to find somewhere to put the EMS...hmmmm.
#51
ahh...just go w/o the power steering...one of my friends just took his out when he was building his ek hatch...not too bad, just something you have to get used to.
personally i'd rather not go w/o it, but w/ this kind of project theres just some things you have to do w/o.
personally i'd rather not go w/o it, but w/ this kind of project theres just some things you have to do w/o.
#52
Originally Posted by tcbabe
ahh...just go w/o the power steering...one of my friends just took his out when he was building his ek hatch...not too bad, just something you have to get used to.
personally i'd rather not go w/o it, but w/ this kind of project theres just some things you have to do w/o.
personally i'd rather not go w/o it, but w/ this kind of project theres just some things you have to do w/o.
I'd give up ABS before I gave up power steering.
#54
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ive never driven a car w/o power steering but my buddies civic actually came from the factory without it. haha
im gonna leave it out for now, once all this snow melts im gonna go for a ride around the block to see if i want to put it back in or not.
im gonna leave it out for now, once all this snow melts im gonna go for a ride around the block to see if i want to put it back in or not.
#57
Originally Posted by yellowxhoodie
ive never driven a car w/o power steering but my buddies civic actually came from the factory without it. haha
im gonna leave it out for now, once all this snow melts im gonna go for a ride around the block to see if i want to put it back in or not.
im gonna leave it out for now, once all this snow melts im gonna go for a ride around the block to see if i want to put it back in or not.
#59
when you get to the harness, make sure you drill a hole in the unibody on each side big enough to run all the connectors through it. dont cut any connectors off just to fit them through the small hole. its better to cut a bigger hole to fit them all w/o having to solder and shrink wrap all the wires.
its gonna suck to move the fuse box inside the car cuz its too big to cut a hole for it... so your gonna be stuck cutting all the wires
for battery, they sell kits for in trunkrelocation that come with big gauge wire, terminals and battery tie down.
its gonna suck to move the fuse box inside the car cuz its too big to cut a hole for it... so your gonna be stuck cutting all the wires
for battery, they sell kits for in trunkrelocation that come with big gauge wire, terminals and battery tie down.