Performance changes
#2
Header, intake, and exhaust system (from the header back) are pretty much the standard bolt-on performance mods. Short of boost, your next options are piggy-back ECUs, lightened flywheel (possibly mated to a performance clutch), possibly head work, short throw shifter, and an upgraded valve train. Those combination of items (if done properly) would give you a quicker revving engine, increased rev-limit, shorter shifts, removed speed limiter, a little more power across the entire power-band, better top-end, and a more precise feeling clutch. This is assuming you've already added some more aggressive pads, SS brake lines, stiffer suspension components, and switched all of your fluids over to synthetic. On your quest for power, please don’t forget about the other important performance and safety components. Oh! And don’t forget, some better treads and lighter wheels will do wonders for virtually every aspect of performance. So, tires are probably your best bet as your next mod. Our stock rims are pretty light for factory 17", at about 18 - 20 lbs per. Finding a (nice looking) 10 - 15 lbs rim is probably going to be difficult, and very costly. Speaking of light rims, if someone knows any w/ the right offset, please provide links.
#3
also, if you do start to get some more power out of the motor you should def look to lower the car and maybe get a body kit to help reduce the amount of air traveling under the car. way too scary to be racing and feel like the car is lifting up.
#5
A body kit? Unless the kit is aerodynamically tested it will not likely help w/ performance as much as suspension components, and, if anything, will simply add weight. For that $900, you could get the TRD springs, struts, and rear sway bar with an extra $350 you could put towards brake pads and SS lines.
#7
Originally Posted by Revilo
what about the air traveling under the car?
#10
Yeah, you could go for Super 7's, I believe they're the same weight as the stock rims, even though they’re 18”s. However, I would just go with a set of Pirelli P-Zero Nero M/S 225/45/17 and have them mounted on the stock rims. That would save quite a bit of cash, and you would see all of the performance benefits. As for the suspension, no, you don’t have to do the shocks when you do the springs, but you're best off too. The stiffer and shorter springs could wear out the stock shocks sooner then normal. Although, according to TRD, their springs have been designed and tested to be fully compatible w/ the stock shocks. But, if you do them all at once, you’ll save quite a bit of time (or money if have them installled for you).
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Sgtfluffy16
Regional - Northeast
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07-28-2021 10:32 PM