bencott

OK, I've searched around, and no one has a DIY for changing the power steering fluid. there are some old threads on it, but none say how to do it, only that it's easy.
My fluid is looking pretty dark, and since the dealership wants to charge me $90 to flush it, i decided to do it myself. I plan to use Redline D4 ATF, which is Dexron III compliant.

I figure I should get a siphon pump and pump out the reservoir, but will that really flush the system? or is there a drain plug somewhere?

Thanks in advance.
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Jan06xB

I don't know if the tC is the same as an xB 2006 but I sucked out a little from the top of the resevour before the screen on top stopped me. Then I removed the return hose from the back side, connected it to a drain hose to a waste bottle and moved the steering wheel from side to side with the engine off which pumped the fluid through the system until air came out then added new fluid and kept pumping it side to side until it started coming out the return hose. Only problem was getting some air trapped in the rack which took a few months of driving to finally clear. Total took about a pint of new fluid.

bencott

i think i've got it. if i disconnect the hose from the bottom of the reservoir, it should drain the system. i can get a length of hose and a funnel to get the fluid through the engine bay and into a catch pan. please let me know if i'm wrong. thanks again.

bencott

sweet. it looks like i was on the right track. thanks for the response. does anyone know how to avoid getting air in the system, if it's even possible?

Jan06xB

Return hose was easier to get to and didn't spill as much fluid when removed since it dumps back into the top of the reservoir. It pumps the fluid through the system very fast when moving the wheels side to side and since I replaced the old fluid with new pink fluid I could see the new fluid in the clear drain hose I used as it got through the system. No funnel was needed since the reservoir was still connected to the intake line to the pump plus the return line had more slack in it. What I spilled was cleaned up with a single paper towel.

Jan06xB

Depending upon the weight of the new fluid to the old (mine was heavier) all you have to do is keep the reservoir full when pumping it through and you will not get air in the rack. Another reason to keep the feed hose connected to the reservoir. The only side effect of air in the rack was at the end of travel it would make some air/oil squishy sounds and I had to add a little more fluid to the reservoir as the air worked it way out.

bencott

cool. thanks again, man.

Scorpius01

Wow..................



A power steering flush machine sucks out and replenishes fluid while the vehicle is running. occasionally turning it lock to lock. This way you are using the power steering pump to pump 'NEW' fluid through the system without damaging your system by introducing air pockets.

a simple fluid pump can take the place of a power steering flush machine, pump it out of the resivior and replenish by hand, whiel the vehicle is running. available at any auto parts store. 3qts of ps fluid or atf is what you will need for a complete flush.

Power steering fluid or dexron II atf is what is used in any toyota power steering system.

bencott

yeah, i was thinking i'd rather find a way to get the job done without introducing air into the system. a neighbor of my parents has a refrigeration pump that he uses for just such a job, so i'm going to give him a call. thanks for the info. have a great weekend!

Jan06xB

It only took a pint the way I did it and you don't want to run the engine if it is not full of fluid. 3 quarts is a big waste! I did mine with a new type fluid (Synlube synthetic) and it came out just fine. No problems. A little air is going to be pumped right through the system anyway and it will not affect steering control at all.

bigwillystyle23

at what mileage are you supposed to do this?

pioneer1976

iTrader: (1)

you should do it when the fluid gets dark, or 30k milage which ever comes first. And i would suggest getting it done at a shop because of the cemicals used during the flush. They help keep the seals in good condition and help the cleaning process much better then going it the way you guys are talking about. I would recommed it because most businesses use BG products. And BG has a free warrenty plan offered on cars with low milage. All you do is keep up with the maintance flushes with BG products.. IMO

Jan06xB

The stock PS fluid is good for about 2 years before it starts to break down and get dark. I did mine when I switched to Synlube at 3600 miles so the original stuff was still clean and there was little wear yet. The Synlube I replaced it with should last at least 5 years and I have enough with the quart I bought to do it again. The Synlube also reduces friction and improves mileage a little and makes the pump last longer. As far as the air in the rack it was maybe an ounce of fluid I had to add over the following couple of months to keep the fluid full as the air worked it way out.

TinmanTC

bump... whats the best DIY way to do this?

divisii

Evry year or so, I use turkey basters to pull as much brake & steering fluids as I can without introducing air. I know I compromise pulling all the contaminated fluid out. I do it for because it's convenient for where I live, & have never had any repair issues in the many vehicles I've done this to.