Problem with 2 OBD2 codes
#1
Problem with 2 OBD2 codes
History since I'm new: 2005 Scion tC: DME 4-1 header, GReddy Ti-C cat back exhaust, AEM CAI. I had 4 codes previous to the ones I'm about to list that I fixed myself. I am very new to anything mechanical but I am mechanically inclined and computer literate and I can read.
I bought an OBD II DTC when I started having problems. Right now it is giving P2252: O2 sensor negative current control circuit low b1 s1 and P2239: O2 sensor positive current control circuit high b1 s1. I tried an online "ask a mechanic" who said: (The code means the orange wire at the sensor is shorted to ground. It could be rubbing something, or a bad sensor internally OR something happened to ECM. Scanner need to view data to help 100%. Check the EFI fuse in the car fuse box. be sure its good. If so, and you have test light, Unplug sensor, run engine til hot, leave running and probe the YELLOW wire going to sensor. It has to have 12 volts. If not, this could set code as well.)
I'm assuming the tester with the light is not the OBD2 tester. What is it and where can I buy one? Yes I am prepared to buy w/e it takes to do the repairs myself. Idk why, maybe it's because I'm about to turn 40 but I just want to do everything myself. Including fix the dents from the fender bender I had a few months back. This problem is sort of urgent since the CEL is on and inspection is due at end of September. Of note: I replaced the O2 sensor B1 S1 with a cheap one i got for $43 including shipping. It came as the sensor and wires, no connector end and i spliced the wires together with the included butt connectors which I did get right. I also DID clear the codes from both the car and the obd2 by taking out the batteries, ran it again which popped up the same codes.
Freeze frame data is always for the first code which is as follows:
Fuel system 1 - OL-fault
Fuel system 2 - NA
Calculated load (%) - 0.00
ECT (°F) - 86
STFT B1 (%) - 0.00
LTFT B1 (%) - 0.00
Engine RPM - 0
Vehicle speed(mph) - 0
Spark Adv (°F) - 5.00
IAT (°F) - 86
MAF (lb/min) - 0.6
TPS (%) - 18.82
As you can see I'm not even driving to get this code.
I'm trying to be as thorough as possible. I hope I didn't leave anything out. I would take it to the dealership but I'd like to do this myself if at all possible which means buying the necessary tools to do it. I'm disabled and have nothing to do and am bored off my keister and time is of no object to me. Any help to this will be incredibly appreciated Oh I should also state that I have a complete manual of 52 PDF files for reference. It has helped me a lot. It shows how to disassemble and reassemble my car in its entirety even collision repair and where to cut for welding.
Thanx, Chris
I bought an OBD II DTC when I started having problems. Right now it is giving P2252: O2 sensor negative current control circuit low b1 s1 and P2239: O2 sensor positive current control circuit high b1 s1. I tried an online "ask a mechanic" who said: (The code means the orange wire at the sensor is shorted to ground. It could be rubbing something, or a bad sensor internally OR something happened to ECM. Scanner need to view data to help 100%. Check the EFI fuse in the car fuse box. be sure its good. If so, and you have test light, Unplug sensor, run engine til hot, leave running and probe the YELLOW wire going to sensor. It has to have 12 volts. If not, this could set code as well.)
I'm assuming the tester with the light is not the OBD2 tester. What is it and where can I buy one? Yes I am prepared to buy w/e it takes to do the repairs myself. Idk why, maybe it's because I'm about to turn 40 but I just want to do everything myself. Including fix the dents from the fender bender I had a few months back. This problem is sort of urgent since the CEL is on and inspection is due at end of September. Of note: I replaced the O2 sensor B1 S1 with a cheap one i got for $43 including shipping. It came as the sensor and wires, no connector end and i spliced the wires together with the included butt connectors which I did get right. I also DID clear the codes from both the car and the obd2 by taking out the batteries, ran it again which popped up the same codes.
Freeze frame data is always for the first code which is as follows:
Fuel system 1 - OL-fault
Fuel system 2 - NA
Calculated load (%) - 0.00
ECT (°F) - 86
STFT B1 (%) - 0.00
LTFT B1 (%) - 0.00
Engine RPM - 0
Vehicle speed(mph) - 0
Spark Adv (°F) - 5.00
IAT (°F) - 86
MAF (lb/min) - 0.6
TPS (%) - 18.82
As you can see I'm not even driving to get this code.
I'm trying to be as thorough as possible. I hope I didn't leave anything out. I would take it to the dealership but I'd like to do this myself if at all possible which means buying the necessary tools to do it. I'm disabled and have nothing to do and am bored off my keister and time is of no object to me. Any help to this will be incredibly appreciated Oh I should also state that I have a complete manual of 52 PDF files for reference. It has helped me a lot. It shows how to disassemble and reassemble my car in its entirety even collision repair and where to cut for welding.
Thanx, Chris
#2
the tester would be a circuit tester its a ground clip and a wand with a light bulb inside the wand. you ground the ground clip and take the wand and probe wires if the light comes on its good ....
they can be had at many hardware and parts stores for fairly cheap!
they can be had at many hardware and parts stores for fairly cheap!
#3
History since I'm new: 2005 Scion tC: DME 4-1 header, GReddy Ti-C cat back exhaust, AEM CAI. I had 4 codes previous to the ones I'm about to list that I fixed myself. I am very new to anything mechanical but I am mechanically inclined and computer literate and I can read.
I bought an OBD II DTC when I started having problems. Right now it is giving P2252: O2 sensor negative current control circuit low b1 s1 and P2239: O2 sensor positive current control circuit high b1 s1. I tried an online "ask a mechanic" who said: (The code means the orange wire at the sensor is shorted to ground. It could be rubbing something, or a bad sensor internally OR something happened to ECM. Scanner need to view data to help 100%. Check the EFI fuse in the car fuse box. be sure its good. If so, and you have test light, Unplug sensor, run engine til hot, leave running and probe the YELLOW wire going to sensor. It has to have 12 volts. If not, this could set code as well.)
I'm assuming the tester with the light is not the OBD2 tester. What is it and where can I buy one? Yes I am prepared to buy w/e it takes to do the repairs myself. Idk why, maybe it's because I'm about to turn 40 but I just want to do everything myself. Including fix the dents from the fender bender I had a few months back. This problem is sort of urgent since the CEL is on and inspection is due at end of September. Of note: I replaced the O2 sensor B1 S1 with a cheap one i got for $43 including shipping. It came as the sensor and wires, no connector end and i spliced the wires together with the included butt connectors which I did get right. I also DID clear the codes from both the car and the obd2 by taking out the batteries, ran it again which popped up the same codes.
Freeze frame data is always for the first code which is as follows:
Fuel system 1 - OL-fault
Fuel system 2 - NA
Calculated load (%) - 0.00
ECT (°F) - 86
STFT B1 (%) - 0.00
LTFT B1 (%) - 0.00
Engine RPM - 0
Vehicle speed(mph) - 0
Spark Adv (°F) - 5.00
IAT (°F) - 86
MAF (lb/min) - 0.6
TPS (%) - 18.82
As you can see I'm not even driving to get this code.
I'm trying to be as thorough as possible. I hope I didn't leave anything out. I would take it to the dealership but I'd like to do this myself if at all possible which means buying the necessary tools to do it. I'm disabled and have nothing to do and am bored off my keister and time is of no object to me. Any help to this will be incredibly appreciated Oh I should also state that I have a complete manual of 52 PDF files for reference. It has helped me a lot. It shows how to disassemble and reassemble my car in its entirety even collision repair and where to cut for welding.
Thanx, Chris
I bought an OBD II DTC when I started having problems. Right now it is giving P2252: O2 sensor negative current control circuit low b1 s1 and P2239: O2 sensor positive current control circuit high b1 s1. I tried an online "ask a mechanic" who said: (The code means the orange wire at the sensor is shorted to ground. It could be rubbing something, or a bad sensor internally OR something happened to ECM. Scanner need to view data to help 100%. Check the EFI fuse in the car fuse box. be sure its good. If so, and you have test light, Unplug sensor, run engine til hot, leave running and probe the YELLOW wire going to sensor. It has to have 12 volts. If not, this could set code as well.)
I'm assuming the tester with the light is not the OBD2 tester. What is it and where can I buy one? Yes I am prepared to buy w/e it takes to do the repairs myself. Idk why, maybe it's because I'm about to turn 40 but I just want to do everything myself. Including fix the dents from the fender bender I had a few months back. This problem is sort of urgent since the CEL is on and inspection is due at end of September. Of note: I replaced the O2 sensor B1 S1 with a cheap one i got for $43 including shipping. It came as the sensor and wires, no connector end and i spliced the wires together with the included butt connectors which I did get right. I also DID clear the codes from both the car and the obd2 by taking out the batteries, ran it again which popped up the same codes.
Freeze frame data is always for the first code which is as follows:
Fuel system 1 - OL-fault
Fuel system 2 - NA
Calculated load (%) - 0.00
ECT (°F) - 86
STFT B1 (%) - 0.00
LTFT B1 (%) - 0.00
Engine RPM - 0
Vehicle speed(mph) - 0
Spark Adv (°F) - 5.00
IAT (°F) - 86
MAF (lb/min) - 0.6
TPS (%) - 18.82
As you can see I'm not even driving to get this code.
I'm trying to be as thorough as possible. I hope I didn't leave anything out. I would take it to the dealership but I'd like to do this myself if at all possible which means buying the necessary tools to do it. I'm disabled and have nothing to do and am bored off my keister and time is of no object to me. Any help to this will be incredibly appreciated Oh I should also state that I have a complete manual of 52 PDF files for reference. It has helped me a lot. It shows how to disassemble and reassemble my car in its entirety even collision repair and where to cut for welding.
Thanx, Chris
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