Problem with my clutch....
#1
Problem with my clutch....
Ok so i just got boosted, now along with that i got a a spec stage 3 + clutch and a 9lb fidanza flywheel. It works fine except for the fact that everynow and then ill have a hard time pulling the shifter out of gear even though im pushing the clutch all the way down to the floor. Somtimes ill have a hard time moving the shifter into gear even after pushing the clutch to the floor. This does not happen consistenly only somtimes. My friend suggested that i may have air in my lines any ideas???
Thanks.
Thanks.
#2
Ok so i just got boosted, now along with that i got a a spec stage 3 + clutch and a 9lb fidanza flywheel. It works fine except for the fact that everynow and then ill have a hard time pulling the shifter out of gear even though im pushing the clutch all the way down to the floor. Somtimes ill have a hard time moving the shifter into gear even after pushing the clutch to the floor. This does not happen consistenly only somtimes. My friend suggested that i may have air in my lines any ideas???
Thanks.
Thanks.
How to do it is really easy. First you need to go to the slave cylinder and unscrew the two bolts off and let the slave cylinder hang. Go back into the car and look under the dash to see where the clutch pedal is. You will see a cotter pin....remove that so then you can remove the metal pin holding the pedal and rod in place. What you want to do is slide the rod to the side so that you can adjust the length of it. The longer it is the more the clutch disengage and the shorter the rod is will run you into your problem. Note that you have to play around with the settings on how high or low you would like it to be. It will get frustrating to keep adjusting it and then drive the car to see the change and then adjust it again if it's not right. It took me three tries to get to where my pedal is now. I hope that helps.
Btw forgot to mention after adjusting the pedal make sure to install everything back together like the pin holding the pedal and rod together and slave cylinder back to it's mounting position.
#5
Senior Member
Scikotics
SL Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Houston, TX (Puerto Rico)
Posts: 1,129
there's a shorter way, go inside the car and look at the assembly with the cotter pin and the gold looking cylinder. Use a 15mm open end for the big nut to keep the cylinder from twisting and a 12 mm for the small nut. Then grab a pair of pliars and turn the rod clockwise (away from cylinder) to engage the clutch higher or viceversa for lower. Obviously u don't need lower.
One good way to find out if ur good is to turn the car on and try to put it in reverse without the clutch in, then slowly press on the clutch and the shift stick should start to go into reverse slowly and making a grinding noise. Don't push hard on the stick, just do it enough where u can hear what's going on. Keep going down on the clutch until the noise goes away. If u have to press on the clutch all the way to the floor for the noise to go away, like it should be doing in the current state, u have to adjust the rod away from the cylinder. A good position should be about an inch an a half from the floor for the noise to go away. When driving that translates to the clutch fully engaging half way ur just a bit after half way.
It took about 3 full turns on my clutch for it to go from almost in the floor full engage to get to the middle. Also don't forget to adjust the pedal height on the top bolt, for the pedal to have a lil play before pushing on the rod. The easiest way is to use a short 14mm open end wrench to loose the nut and then turn the bolt away from u about 1 1/2 turns. It easier to get to it if u disconnect the bottom clutch switch connector that's in the way. It also has a plastic clip that's holding the cable to the firewall, just undo it and u'll have plenty of space to move ur wrench.
Hope that helps!
One good way to find out if ur good is to turn the car on and try to put it in reverse without the clutch in, then slowly press on the clutch and the shift stick should start to go into reverse slowly and making a grinding noise. Don't push hard on the stick, just do it enough where u can hear what's going on. Keep going down on the clutch until the noise goes away. If u have to press on the clutch all the way to the floor for the noise to go away, like it should be doing in the current state, u have to adjust the rod away from the cylinder. A good position should be about an inch an a half from the floor for the noise to go away. When driving that translates to the clutch fully engaging half way ur just a bit after half way.
It took about 3 full turns on my clutch for it to go from almost in the floor full engage to get to the middle. Also don't forget to adjust the pedal height on the top bolt, for the pedal to have a lil play before pushing on the rod. The easiest way is to use a short 14mm open end wrench to loose the nut and then turn the bolt away from u about 1 1/2 turns. It easier to get to it if u disconnect the bottom clutch switch connector that's in the way. It also has a plastic clip that's holding the cable to the firewall, just undo it and u'll have plenty of space to move ur wrench.
Hope that helps!
Last edited by Carlanga; 10-15-2009 at 07:20 AM.
#7
yea i have a stock clutch and sometimes i would get this problem too.. usually when i'm in traffic though and i'd be like WTF?? why doesn't it want to come out of 1st?? id be afraid that i'd hit the car in front of me this explains alot so thanks for the help.. is there any way that someone could post pictures because im one of those visual learners
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RY_TC07
Scion tC 1G Owners Lounge
25
07-18-2017 05:18 PM