TCpete

hey smart guy.. if you rev higher you going to fall back into the downward part of the dam curve! thats why... if you shift at 6500 rpms lets say, by the time you engage again you will fall back about 1k rpms leaving you at 5500 rpms..and gee at 5500 rpms your now in the downward part of the curve were you not making any power! i usualy get about 1k or 1200k rpms of loss when i shift.. and also in all of my other friends cars. so unless you shift like a granny or have a weak clutch engagement your engaging were the peak has passed and your going down.

if you cant see that i heard jaime fox is making a sequal to ray charles and you could be in it.

InfideL

unnecessary roughness there...

anyways if he only get a high flow head like the one zpi offers
then it is beneficial right?
can the stock pistons and rods take they kind of rev speed?

TCpete

its not rough at all.. sometimes u gotta beat stuff into peoples head so they dont make a mistake.


also yea the bottom block can take it no sweat. its not maxing out its potential crank speed because look at everyone whose boosted... stock blocks holding 250 hp no problem. im sure at 180hp the stock block can hold even easier. out piston rings are high but its a camry motor so its a rock in itself to some degree.

and yes a high flow head would be extremely beneficial to our car in making more power. granted you would need to tune the car because you'd be running extremely rich but once you've dont that. matt it with a good header and hello topend pwr increase here we go!

but at the same time, if you plan on raising the rev limiter do and do it right. build the head so it can take the abuse at higher rpms.. upgrade the valves, valve springs, retainers. arp studs etc. so you dont drop a valve and smoke your head or block and so it will last a good amount of years.

if your going to do something like this have the know how and do it right the first time. you'll save yourself the headache later and have more time enjoying the car.

TCpete

here is an example of what mild head upgrades and work can do for you. notice were my power band ends.. almost at 6k flat and steady and me letting off until almost i hit the rev limiter.

this is a head im working on continuesly which so far with just a CAI has given me 158-160 whp. i am still needing a small tune to correct it in some places as the exhuast sniffer is not accurate and my WB is showing richer numbers. if i shifted at 6500 i would be in a peak range. VS the graph above with a stock head that put the peak in a lower range.

3min3m2

plus your next gear would fall right in a good part of the torque curve

mike6789k

lol wtf, why are you using mobil 1 before 5000 miles... that is just retarded, the rings are barely seated... and now you are revving over the limiter?

woww... good luck having the car run after 50k miles

tcengel

Well, that's a nice graph and the shape is almost exactly the same as the one posted above so I am not sure of your point. Your torque line is a bit flatter and doesn't fall off as much, I'll give you that. I do notice that this is on a dynojet so your power is a bit down considering the graph I posted is a dyno dynamics. Also, the dynojet is a non-load bearing dyno so generally most tuners would take the torque curve with a grain of salt. Of course you would have more torque with less load, that sort of throws your theory out the window.

toyota_scion_tc

There is no point in revving a tC that high! I have dyno to prove it, all you are doing is causing accelerated engine wear. Unless you have major mods (i.e. turbo or nitrous, fully built block and head) then the stock tC on a dyno starts dropping hp after it peaks and it drop pretty quickly around 5700-6000. If you just rev and shift at the factory red line around 6250 you will be better off.

TCpete

beleive me this dyno is str8 on. ive been on 3 diff. dynos and on all 3 im getting the same numers. this graph has been corrected to compensate the load. beleive me when i tell you.. ill tap 160 on any dyno. hell ive tapped 161 on really hot and humid day here in miami day.
ill be more then happy to post up any kind of dyno you want from my car.

even on basing my saysin on your dyno you will see your going to fall flat on you face. how hard is that to see???? just follow the lines for crying out loud

tcengel

I guess I have to be part of the 1Up Crew to understand.

TCpete

no just a little common sense will do.

Crippie

lol....

I didnt read the entire post, but how did the guy that originally change his speedo limiter with the emanage do it? Is it in the instructions on the greddy site, cause i havent seen it there.

Also, I can vouch for tcPete. I dont know what his dyno #s are, but his car is pretty sweet...

3min3m2

saying a car is sweet doesnt validate the dynos


not being a pri%k, but thats the way it has to be...proof if proof, but comparing two different types of dynos is apples and like freaking bricks....

true this only benefits a decently built motor....but consider this for the auto tranny guys


my transmission(auto) drops to about 4k when it shifts......now if it would go al the way to 6800, then it would drop to a rough guess of 4600+....right in the power band, if you have IHE, and maybe a little more


plus, since the tc tranny is an ECT, it will shift at the original redline unless you hold it in 1,2,3, drive, etc......

would be good for an occasional trip to the strip, or the street light to light race....

TCpete

if you were to pull up next to me at light or roll.. you would know what he means by sweet lol..

and sorry over revving passed the designed engine specs on a stock head is only asking for a bent valve, dropped valve, or a variety of other small things that could break or cause long term damage... you wana have a faster auto, then go boost or do a manual swap or spray... but justifing redline abuse for the sake of " falling in the power band" just means your car is slow. you could easily just swap out all your pullies and that would help a little and alow you to free glide longer as the tranny shift alowing you to fall closed to your max power band..

but then when you bend or drop a valve dont say no one warned you....upgrades your valve train and save yourself the headache later..

oh and thanks denny lol.. ill never forget that night on the palmetto what max told me after you got next to me..but when you go on boost i doubt ill be able to keep up to you anymore lol..

3min3m2

i never said i planned to use emanage at all, i dont have the desire to do any more modifying to my tc, as i plan to keep it as a DD, hence forth why i bought another car to play with

yes, my auto tc is considered slow by many...

and changing the pulley doesnt change where the shift falls, at least not on the auto, trust me i have the NST pulley

not picking a fight, just explaining my theory, and yes i understand a higher RPM would place extra stress on the drive train, and eventually cause floating valves if your not careful, my step-dads 88 chevy has that problem, but after 273000 miles....

chuynh207

I plan to use the emanage to "unleash" more HP because of my intake and full exhaust system (no CATS BABY!!!!!) I know the ECU right now isn't letting it go to it's full potential so I hope to eliminate that with the emanage.