raamaudio

We have only done the front one, really need to do the rear as well for best effect(far superior) but with just the front, cannot tell any difference, just as before being done

Once the rear is done it may add a bit but I am sure it will be marginal.

Rick

ILLCRXSI

i forgot to mention earlier that an easy cheap nonpermanent way of doing this is to just suff pieces of vacuum line in the gaps in the motor mount. works pretty well, it's a no brainer, and it's cheap.

raamaudio

They will deflect quite a bit though, how about solid plactic rods, etc;)

Rick

ILLCRXSI

deflecting is the idea with the rubber hose. since it's hollow it keeps engine vibration to a minimum under low load. but when you mash the throttle it smashes the hose and stiffens the mount.

raamaudio

I understand but you are still using up valuable torque, you can have a much stiffer setup that is going to use that power to motivate the car better and still not have any major noise issues;)

Rick

ILLCRXSI

no doubt you can, but the rubber hose trick works well for people that don't want something permanent, and they want an easy and quick solution. i agree, that the other methods mentioned here work really well.

raamaudio

I understand where you are coming from buddy, just pointing out other ways could do more good I would want something more solid as the rest of the factory rubber is really enough to deal with vibrations, etc, may as well make th empty areas as stiff as you resonably can, more benifit, very little if any tradeoff and it could be removable, lot's of interesting materials to choose from

Rick

scholarbb

Bump cause $165 is "ludacwist"(Tyson version)

scholarbb

Anyone planning to do this: U-418 is a royal pain to work with. Ridiculous drying times and virtually impossible to wash off your hands. I'm expecting to have 20 hrs plus in oven time on this chit. U-418HV (High Viscosity) may setup quicker??? There is some 418 cold weather also available. Probably harder to find but may setup quicker.

I also do NOT recommend trimming extra rubber out of mounts. Less urethane used will equal faster setup times. I think if I had to do it over again I might just try filling with epoxy. Although I don't recommend this as results are uncertain...

Schuller

I have a tube of 3m window weld. I may try it this weekend.

Can you explain the procedure u used to remove the mount. I assume I'll figure it out but would welcome any help.

scholarbb

Front mount is real easy. Pop the 2 plastic clips holding the driver side fairing(2 screwdrivers helps prevent broken clips.) Pull fairing back and remove 2-14mm bolts. Also remove 14mm thru middle of mount.

Tranny mount is more involved. I pulled the air-box, battery, and metal battery tray to get at this one. You may not "have to" remove all that. I needed to pull battery and air-box anyway for CAI install.

Rear motor mount-i'm not sure. I think its behind the engine cradle. Sorry can't advise on that one. Hothkis swaybar install instructions "might" help with that one.

raamaudio

UPDATE!!! Important info to help you guys out.

U-418HV just was not as stiff as I wanted it to be, after driving the car a few more times I found we had more wheel hop left than I originaly thought, just had to be on the right surfaces to find it and we seldom drive the car(it has not been off jackstands now since the middle of Jan).

We pulled the tranny to install the LSD, clutch, FSB, etc, and do the rear and tranny mounts.

I put the front mount into a vice and inserted a long rod into the center bolt hole then check for movement, not really as stiff as I though it would be and the method of install did not look all than clean(I am a bit **** about such things)

So, we dug it out of the front mount and prepped it and the other two and poured the Devcon 80 into them instead. It takes along time to fully cure so you want to do this when you can go withour your car for awhile.

On the Matrix cars, which are very similar in layout, it is not to difficult to remove the rear mount but it may very quite hard to do on the tC, seems more difficult to just drop the tranny and put it back so the mount by itself may be a tough one.

The side mount requires blocking up the engine, a floor jack is great, you can move things up and down a bit to get bolts out and back in when done.

Overall, not satisfied with the U-418HV, not compared to poured mounts with the Devcon.

BUT, we will be running 245/45/17 Hoosier autocross tires, super sticky, we need all the motion control we can get!

While we had the mounts off we removed at least 2 lbs of excess materials that would be negated in purpose on our mounts as well. Then we cleaned up all the stampings, little tabs, etc, etc, and disk sanded everything nice and smooth the painted satin black, sure have nice mounts now



Rick
________________________________________

Back to plan A, Devcon

Gambit7

What... no pics of the mounts?

Tecrun19

Yeah no one ever did post a pic of this. The little guide was nice but pics would be best for the rest of us. So what was the best thing to use to fill the mounts that doesnt take a full day to cure ?

raamaudio

What I used takes a full week to cure, 24 hours in the oven, 6 days at room temp

But, it is the only suitable product I have found that does the job.

Rick

bbsciontc

So the flexane shore 80 casting compound should be done in layers as well?

Tecrun19

I thought he just did it all at once put it in the oven for 24hrs then reinstalled. Whats the Devcon 80 you used in stead of the U-418 ? I just want to get rid of wheel hop without any increase in vibrations and noise.

raamaudio

The U-418 was terribly inadequate compared to the Flexane( I have used it before with great success).

You really want to do the front and rears and since the car is down doing them the same time makes perfect sense.

I do the drivers side mount as well at the same time, do need to support the engine well when doing so.

I used Devcon 92 the first time in a different car, had to go back and drill some holes to soften them a bit so my visors did not shake right off, lol! Once drilled they worked just about like the solid 80 does now, not much vibration getting through but deffinately some, a price to pay for real performance gains.

OK I did this sometime ago had have a few details mixed up.

Right from the Flexane label:

Pot life: 30 minutes(still pourable)

Cure: Rubbery solid overnight, 70-95% strength in two days(I would not use them yet myself) Full cure in 7 days.

Cure using heat: Cure overnight first at room temperature then heat for 24 hours at 150 degrees to acheive full cure.

Accelerator: Available to speed up the cure, I have no info on this but it would be on their website, be carefull about loosing some of the durability or properties we need for engine mounts(proper term is engine, not motor;)

Note: A 1 pound kit shoud do two cars, cost is around $35.

Rick

Jake_tC

Yep, engine "dampers" are a complete waste of money. *cough* snake oil *cough*

And yep, this method will work. But it's spelled "urethane" by the way

raamaudio

"Dampers" do have some effect, they can help modestly modded cars a bit, even those with some fairly serious mods. However, if you are into racing of any sort, far better to fill the mounts and Flexane is far better than windshied caulk. If you are full on racing then solid metal mounts are generally the way to go but sure not on anything you want to drive daily!
---------------------------------
Flexane is the brand name, it is thier version of urethane;)

OVEN CURED, 24 hours at 150 degrees then ready to go, once cooled off a bit.

It will introduce more noise and vibration, no way around that but it is not terrible, not as bad as some cars I have seen done.


Rick