Lets examine all the factors you list then.

"hp maybe lower because I am only using 91 to 92 octane "
Your engines compression ratio is a measly 9.6:1. You should be running on 87 octane. Higher octane actualy makes fuel harder to ignite / combust slower to prevent pre-detination. So unless you rebuild your engine to have higher compression or go FI, octane has absolutely nothing to do with how Unichip MIGHT help your test run dyno. If by an act of God the Unichip will make a low compression economy engine make better numbers with higher octane gas show us the dyno where you tested it on 87 vs 92 and up octane fuel. Dont tell lies that it might. It's the same as me saying my air freshner might give me more HP on the dyno if I try 101 octane gas.

"There is a lot of humidity in Iowa"
Its not how big the number is that matters. It is the difference in the power curve made by using the product your trying to sell. In this case tuning your engine to cope with high humidity should help which would make the unichip, if it works, look better. Also where is the verification yet again..Any good dyno spread will show air temp and humidity at time of the runs.

"Also I had my car tune for the best possible gas mileage"
If you are using you car and this dyno sheet to prove better gas mileage then show us how your gas mileage improved. If you want to show us that this products will give a TC $500 worth of HP then show us that, not some messed up spread that you defend as being crappy because its a gas friendly tune.

"it is not that hard to believe when you look at all the factors."
Looking at all the factors, it is even harder to believe. Key part of the word of factors is "fact". You have no good supporting evidence that this product does anything..You have given us no real FACTS just by saying what it might do. We dont want a salesman, we want quantifiable results. Otherwise no one with a good head on their shoulders is going to believe the Unichip is any good especially at that price.

I'm just trying to help you by telling you what we want to hear and see. And help others who may want to buy this thing make a decision based on whats real and not whats said or promised by someone whos biased.

I don't know if you noticed but your mods are making your torque go down the toilet after 4k.

 

1st off don't come on here and tell me that I'm making up lies, if I didn't believe in a product, I wouldn't tell everyone else to get it.

2nd off octane of fuel does matter, I have never heard anyone every say that 87 octane is better the 92+??????, that is completly backwards. Why do you think people use race fuel at the drag strip. Higher octane fuel burns better!

3rd if you don't think that climate and the temp of the air make a difference in how the car runs, then you haven't driven a car on a cool night. And I'm not trying to make excusses for unichip, all I'm am saying is a car can gain or lose 10 hp or so depending on certain things.

4th different tunes do make different power, if you don't believe that then I don't know what else to tell you.

I understand that people want people want proff and there is a dyno up on there website, so I don't know what else to tell you. I'm not sure if there hp and torque was to the wheels or not. All I am telling you that the dyno for my car was hp and torque to the wheels. I did notice a difference when I put the unichip on there period, if people don't believe me then that there choice. I'm just trying to share my experience with a good products to people.

Also Unichip is a engine management system and compared to others I feel it is priced pretty reasonable, just saying do forget what your buying. It's not just a performance chip.

 

My issue is with the before unichip graph. Tunes, octane, whatever shouldn't matter we're talking about a pretty much stock tc with intake and exhaust. They show it dynoing at 170+ when no one else has ever show more than 155. That would make me think they are up to something and their post unichip dyno can not be trusted.

 

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-e...question90.htm

 

I, like someone stated previously, noticed that the run was performed in 3rd and not a 1:1 gear. This will affect the numbers. Also i suspect that the numbers are corrected to the crank hp. Dyno numbers from many stock 07+ tCs indicate that toyota should have rated the 2AZ at over 170 hp. I too would like to see some independent numbers before I would be serious about buying.

There are however, a few things to consider with regard to some of the arguments above. One is that a higher octane gasoline can be beneficial even on a 9.6 to 1 engine if timing advance is being employed. Most piggyback units cannot advance timing on our ecus, and i have not seen evidence of the unichip doing this. Heat can play a role, and my stock tC performs better in the low ranges with 89, when the ambient temps are above ~105 because it prevents some heat related pinging that would cause the ecu to pull timing.

Another thing is high atmospheric humidity. The greater the humidity, the less available oxygen there is in the atmosphere for combustion. As a result output will be lower. I dont think that you can tune for humidity since our engines do not employ forced induction and timing cant be advanced with available tuners. In Iowa there is probably little need for greater than 87 octane fuel since the OAT rarely exceeds 95 and the humid air will have a very slight cooling effect on the fuel charge.

 

I, like someone stated previously, noticed that the run was performed in 3rd and not a 1:1 gear. This will affect the numbers. Also i suspect that the numbers are corrected to the crank hp. Dyno numbers from many stock 07+ tCs indicate that toyota should have rated the 2AZ at over 170 hp. I too would like to see some independent numbers before I would be serious about buying.

There are however, a few things to consider with regard to some of the arguments above. One is that a higher octane gasoline can be beneficial even on a 9.6 to 1 engine if timing advance is being employed. Most piggyback units cannot advance timing on our ecus, and i have not seen evidence of the unichip doing this. Heat can play a role, and my stock tC performs better in the low ranges with 89, when the ambient temps are above ~105 because it prevents some heat related pinging that would cause the ecu to pull timing.

Another thing is high atmospheric humidity. The greater the humidity, the less available oxygen there is in the atmosphere for combustion. As a result output will be lower. I dont think that you can tune for humidity since our engines do not employ forced induction and timing cant be advanced with available tuners. In Iowa there is probably little need for greater than 87 octane fuel since the OAT rarely exceeds 95 and the humid air will have a very slight cooling effect on the fuel charge.

 

when you say this quote "Dyno numbers from many stock 07+ tCs indicate that toyota should have rated the 2AZ at over 170 hp".... what do you mean? that the 07 tc should have been listed at 170 hp?

and when tc's are listed as having 161 hp... is that at the wheel or no? do all companies list them the same way with total hp or do some list it as at the wheel?

 

"2nd off octane of fuel does matter, I have never heard anyone every say that 87 octane is better the 92+??????,"

When did I say one octane is better than the other? Different octane fuels are only better or worse if they are used on a engine that can actually use it. You're TC isnt going to make better numbers on higher than 92 octane fuel. THAT is what I was saying so you should brush up on your reading comprehension skills.

"that is completly backwards. Why do you think people use race fuel at the drag strip. Higher octane fuel burns better!"

People do because they have high compression NA builds or FI and it will actually benifit them just like I said..Unlike your basically stock TC which is what I referring to...Again work on your comprehension skills.

"3rd if you don't think that climate and the temp of the air make a difference in how the car runs, then you haven't driven a car on a cool night."

I said that because of the extreme climate, using engine managment to tune your map to accommedate the climate should be an arguement in favor of Unichip not against. So thats another thing you got ___ backwards.

"4th different tunes do make different power, if you don't believe that then I don't know what else to tell you."

No ____ different tunes make different power thats the whole point of tuning, when did I say they didnt? What I did say though, is that if you are going to say that your car is tuned for fuel economy, its probably not the best dyno sheet to post up to make claims on power.

 

Look dude I'm not even going to respone to you because u don't know what your talking about and are back pedaling on what you said earlier. Maybe you should get your facts together before you come on here and make comments that aren't true.

 

Thanks for putting that up.

 

Thanks for your help

 

lol i might as well buy the ebay chip that claims "100 HP and 30+MPG best module"

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

 

"when you say this quote "Dyno numbers from many stock 07+ tCs indicate that toyota should have rated the 2AZ at over 170 hp".... what do you mean? that the 07 tc should have been listed at 170 hp?

and when tc's are listed as having 161 hp... is that at the wheel or no? do all companies list them the same way with total hp or do some list it as at the wheel?"

What I mean by this is; that it seems that Toyota learned their lesson from over rating the 2ZZ which had less power than they had stated. This was determined when the new SAE rules for determining HP were placed in effect. GM engines on average picked up power with the new rating because GM had been under rating while many of the Japanese car companies and some european ones were over rating. Hyundai got in trouble during the switch over for over rating the 2.7 V-6 that they were putting in the Tiburon. Some owners received extended warranties as a result.

Manufacturer ratings are almost always at the crank or flywheel. I have seen WHP dynos for the newer (07+) tCs stock at 148-152 WHP which given a 15% drivetrain loss, yields 176-179 Crank HP. Even a 2AZ that dynos a lower 145 WHP would be at ~170 HP.

 

''

hah! i bought 2 of those bad boys! 200whp and 314789301mpg..bwahahahaha..


But seriously..I was kinda hoping the Unichip would be a new form of a power mod for our cars..oh well..guess I'll have to look elsewhere

Still debating on going boost or not once it's paid off

 

Haha I agree, you would be just as well off buying an ebay "power chip" MAF resistor as getting this Unichip crap for $500. They cant even prove it does anything. Even if it is good for tuning its only going to be worth it on builds that go beyond mere bolt-ons and by that time you going to be better off getting GReddy or AEM because theres actually tuners out there for them.

Heres a couple Unichip reviews I found online..

Randall Baker: "I give it a 6 out of 10 because of the pains of finding a local tuner, paying the tuner and the price I paid $735 for 5-7WHP. I wish they had software that allowed the owner to tune and more tuners with ability to tune. Currently it only adjust fuel and timing."

Jason Affonso: "THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYS ON IN BOTH MODES,THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE IN POWER WHATSOEVER, THE UNICHIP ISNT IN MY VEHICLE IT IS IN THE BOX IT CAME IN UNDER MY BED."

 

Hey I actually have a question about dynos.

I noticed a few posts up someone mentioned how it wasn't dynoed up to a gear with a 1:1 gear ratio..is it because once you are in an overdrive gear you are no longer really producing hp/torque or something like that? I have a basic understanding of how gear ratios work but I know nothing about how dynos work other than they can make people happy or sad depending on the numbers it produces

 

Overdrive is fifth in our manual transaxle equipped cars...

 

4th is also an overdrive

the gear ratio for 4th is .972
3rd is 1.33

 

I know..my point is after a 1:1 gear does it affect the dyno readings or anything like that? I already said I know how gear ratios work and what they mean. I'm just curious how they affect a dyno based on your comment a few posts back...I wasn't asking what gear is or isn't an overdrive gear

 

Gear ratios are meant to multiply torque output to the wheels to help with acceleration. When people strap their car on the dyno the ideal way to find the "true" power of the car is to dyno it in the gear closest to the 1:1 ratio. Since the dyno Unichip posted was ran in 3rd gear the power being put down was actually MORE than what the engine actually produces.

For example if you were to dyno a car in first gear, the dyno would read 4-5 times the power and torque that the engine produces.

http://www.modified.com/editors/tech...las/index.html

Great technical article which explains the mathematics behind gear ratios.