audiobahntc

Has anyone tried this on the tc yet? I'm pretty satisfied with the characteritics of the power curve already, but then again, I'm sure the ECU is probably set up to maximize MPG as opposed to performance. I think I may end up getting the controller, if only to have some kind of electrical device to play with....

Anyone have any ideas comments suggestions?

WeDriveScions

Here's a few posts about it from back in the day...

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...vti+controller

Fushyuguru

I have one, I use an Innovative LC1 Wideband, A/F meter, RPM module and Innovative Logworks to street tune based off AFR. Not good enough to squeeze the last few % out as a dyno tune, but much cheaper and pre-loaded.

Hugely improves performance of your I/H/E, smooths power delivery and very easy to tune. The tC ECU likes to richen the mix when it senses more airflow, so you get robbed of some power right off the bat after bolt ons.

With just my street tuning, you can significantly deaden the power slump under 3k, and WOT pulls feel near rotary smooth above 2.5k to redline. I feel the Camcon wont be enough of a piggyback after an engine rebuild (looking at a unichip while using the camcon's VVTI and leaving it's A/F zero), but if youre just trying to add some pop your bolt ons it's great for the $$.

The ECU will learn, so reset your ECU every so often and youre back to norm.

ryno379

I know this is the NA forum, but I wonder what this would do for a Supercharged tC.

WeDriveScions

It'd probably help as well... but be harder to tune I'm sure.

The_Guff

I have one for sale if you're interested, I had it on my car for a couple of days but never got it tuned and i've decided to sell my car. So I have no use for it now, PM me for info. if you're interested.

audiobahntc

I wouldn't buy one used, from arizona, but thanks anyway...Looking for more input before I actually go thru the trouble of buying/installin/tuning

Fushyuguru

If you have any questions, fire away.

KevShek

just wanted to know, whats the dos and dont on adjusting the VVTi? how do you know where to adjust it to? or is it just a trail by error thing?

reagulator

you have to dyno tune it

KevShek

basically, like the SAFC to get the full benifit. Unfortunately, dyons are few and far between round these parts.

Fushyuguru

It is a VVTi and Air/Fuel computer. The VVTi component adjusts the cam angle signal comming out of the ECU +/- 20deg, the Air/Fuel component can be adusted +/- 20% of the value comming out of the ECU. The unit stores a list of points per 500rpm that you set and applies them to the outgoing ECU signal as the engine rev's through its rpm range (the map you set is the tune).

You don't ever HAVE to tune on a dyno. The safest way is using a dyno, as you can control the majority of the variables your car is going through while isolated on a dyno. You are also normally provided with actual air/fuel ratios during dyno tuning so you can make sure the car does not run dangerously lean or hinderingly rich.

You can also tune on the street (as I do). For this you need several sensors in order to determine your changes are doing something positive. I use an Innovate LC1 wideband sensor and rpm converter with Innovate Logworks tuning software.

First I start rolling in 3rd gear and pull through the entire rpm range (at about 1/2-3/4 throttle, as the tC ECU runs richer when at WOT) while completeing a real time log of A/F, rpm and time. This is with the Camcon off to get a baseline pull. I then make pulls at various settings throughout the VVTi map. You can tell what kind of effect on power the settings when overlaying pulls on top of each other. The rpm curve will be steeper when more power is attained.

For A/F, two key points for gasoline to remember are Stoich (Lambda 1) 14.7 lbs air to 1lbs fuel. This is the point where the A/F is safe for your engine and the environment. This is where the factory ECU is trying to keep the engine. Maximum power is attained at A/F 12.6 (Lambda 0.86), roughly 10-15% richer than Stoich. Maximum fuel efficiency is attained at A/F 15.4 (Lambda 1.06).

So from here on my daily driver I try and tune for A/F 15.0-15.4 at idle through 3k to maximize cruising fuel efficiency and then a smooth transition to 13.0-12.6 above 3k for maximum power when playing in the powerband. I also try and compromise a bit so the A/F doesnt step far from 12.6 when at WOT (when the ECU naturally adds more fuel) so the car doesnt run hinderingly rich.

So the short answer, the camcon needs to be tuned to your car. However how you do it is up to you, just stay out of running lean or too rich. I when I first got the camcon I used another forum members maps before installing a wideband 02. The camcon is quite safe to tune with as even with a header, spipe, CAI, and exhaust, the tC runs naturally quite rich and I needed to run below -10% A/F in order to run the car lean.

hahaitzskippy

^^^
good input but my question is when u go up in higher elevation, wat do you do. do you set it manual like increase this or decrease that,

or does the stock ECU kinda work its way around?

is there settings memorized like "setting 1" or "setting 2"
1 for Daily driving or sea level
2 for mountain roads or higher elevation.

im intrerested in getitn a CAMCON but i dont know how to tune it. i drive to the mtns a lot and i feel a difference in power due to the thinner air outside.

Fushyuguru

I havent done much change in elivation wth it so I can't talk from experience. However...

The ECU will still learn with the Camcon!

This is one of the reasons I decided to permanently have a wideband o2 and gauge installed with this setup. I also feel this makes this a safer product for many novice tuners. I can set my values and note where my A/F SHOULD be on the gauge at WOT, idle, cruise etc. I place small pieces of electrical tape on the gauge housing. Once the ECU starts learning the parameters will start to go richer over time (takes a while, 1k miles or more). So I just reset my ECU every time and again to regain the tune.

There are no multiple tunes with the camcon. However tuning it is VERY easy. If you can set your alarm you can tune the camcon. Since I tune on the street with this car, I can say it's easy to tweak the map. I will run 1/2 mile down the road, pull over, tweak the map for 30 sec, and go again: car running, on the fly.

There are 3 buttons on the camcon. One selects both mode (VVTi, A/F, and set-map modes) and chooses the rpm while in the map mode, the other two are +/- buttons for tweaking the map. Just scroll throw the rpm range and bump the values up or down.

I have recorded multiple maps for my car since I like to play around with it some. One for power, another for gas milage and the one I run which is a mix f the two (the one I described above). If I want to change settings I can easily re-enter all of the map values for VVTi or A/f in less than 2 minutes.

Jarrod123

how much do these go for?

hahaitzskippy

usually 300?

KevShek

ive just purchased mine off the bay. look forward to having a bit play about with it.

I have a AFR gauge fitted to the stock sensor, i know its not the most accurate, but how far off would it be if i used this for the moment to fiddle about with the CAMCON with?

R2D2

Question: What brand controllers do we have to choose from?

KevShek

ive heard rumours that apexi will work on vvti, but not that brave to try. supposidly most vtec one will do it, but again, i have no official proof except that the CAMCON does do hondas, but you need to change the dipswitch settings, so there must be a difference somewhere.

Fushyuguru

The stock front sensor is a proprietary wideband, If you tapped off this I'm not quite sure what the output would be. I've heard of a couple people tapping off this, but again, don't know what signal it gives without controller interpretation.

The rear sensor is a narrowband sensor, an on/off switch. It will flop back and forth from Rich/Lean when not at Stoich 14.7. This sensor wil give you a ballpark when youre near Stoich as it gets quite accurate near 14.7 but will just say rich or lean when not at 14.7.

The tC's ECU is constantly changing AFR using the info from the two sensors. This produces an ever changing AFR even while cruising. A steady AFR on the tC will fluctuate +/- about 1 AFR. This could make the narrowband a bit annoying and hard to read anything from it. You could use it to notice a constant lean condition which could be bad, or a constant rich (remember the tC already goes about 10% rich at WOT, thats good).