garabaldy

So I just finished building the engine and reinstalling the engine and trans. I hooked everything back up and was very meticulous with notes and pictures. Well, I went to start the car for the first time since the rebuild and when I turn the key to "on" position I don't hear the fuel pump and when I crank it over it does not start. I checked the fuel rail and sure enough no fuel pressure. I am getting one code on my scanner P0340 , malfunctioning cam sensor. I don't think this is cause of the bigger issue of not starting but you never know. Any ideas are appreciated.........

Vlad1024

Start with checking for voltage at the fuel pump when it's supposed to prime. If you get voltage the fuel pumps dead, else its a wiring issue.

aryana159

Check the fuse? Relay?

garabaldy

Thanks for the replies, I checked all the fuses that appeared to be related to fuel and none were blown. If anyone knows which fuse actually is the fuel pump one please let me know. I checked for voltage at the fuel pump and i was getting 12 volts but not sure if I was checking the right ones since there are like 5 wires going to the pump. BTW, the pump worked fine when I parked it 3 months ago to build the engine. I was thinking it maybe the inertia fuel cut off switch. Maybe it tripped when I reconnected the battery........

Carlanga

Whenever I do an oil change I remove the EFI fuse inside engine bay. Start by measuring there

catracho16

two suggestions from experience.....check your grounding of all your wires

and make sure you checked the timing...i had a friend who didnt check the timing and the valves broke right through...and then it woudnt just start, click, or crank

garabaldy

So I checked for 12v at the EFI fuse, all good. I checked the EFI fuse, all good. I checked the EFI relay and it is "clicking". I removed the relay and "jumpered" the connections to turn on the fuel pump manually but the pump did not turn on. Is it possible that the pump went bad from sitting for 3 months? I will check my ground and timing next.

garabaldy

I tested the grounding, all good

thendawg

iTrader: (2)

What pump are you using? As for testing voltage to the pump - on the connector that plugs into the top of the sump assy, the wires for the pump are black (+) and white/black stripe (-). FYI, the pump wont just turn on from turning the key to the ignition position, youll have to at least "bump" the starter to get it to prime.

garabaldy

I'm using the Walboro 255...........thanks for the info on the priming and wiring

garabaldy

Update: I was messing with the Cam Sensor testing it and in the process unplugged the FIC to test the wire from there to the Sensor. once i plugged everything back in the car started and ran. I re-started the car 4 more times but on the 5th time it would not start and now I'm getting a Cam and crank sensor error codes. So I remove the FIC and plugged in a jumper plug between the two connectors that plug into the FIC and the car started with no codes. Of course ran rough with no piggy back. I then removed the jumper plug and plugged the connectors back into the FIC and car will not start and cam and crank sensor error codes. So now I'm not sure if it is the connectors not making good contact with connectors on FIC or the FIC itself.

garabaldy

After reading more I think it maybe the fact that I don't have the resistor fix on my wiring harness. I never needed it in the past but the symptoms sound like it. Thoughts?

garabaldy

So all is good now. I installed the new X-1 and no more problems. I'd like to thank Paul at Dezod for his help to get my X-1 modified and the PnP harness. He went beyond to ship me the X-1 ASAP.........thanks

DeAnzaJig

What is this X1 you speak of?

crush02342002

iTrader: (2)

apr (allan philips racing) x-1 engine managment

garabaldy

Yes it is Allan Phillips racing engine management and is described as an in-line ECU. So far it is very cool.....I'm learning as I go

bigG2148

glad to see u got ur car running

Ryan99FL

Have you used any other ECU besides the X1? Can you compare/contrast them?

garabaldy

I started with the Unichip that came with the Turbonetics kit but it was not easily tunable since i wanted to increase my boost, so I bought the AEM FIC and used that for over 3 years. That worked great except I could not drive the car anywhere else but Denver area cause it would require a re-tune. The X-1 seems good so far cause it is much more granular and you tune it by setting the AFR and it will attempt to meet that AFR. This allows me to drive the car in other locations. i'm trying to work through a few minor issues but have not had the time yet.

borderguy881

iTrader: (-1)

with the X-1 the self tune thing is nice but is that just for closed loop or does this apply to open loop aswell