2006 scion tc supercharge suggestion/info/input on setup...
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 154
From: Lake Worth, FL
2006 scion tc supercharge suggestion/info/input on setup...
HELLO, EVERYONE.... MY NAME IS CARLOS... I OWN A 2006 SCION TC SUPERCHARGED.
I HAVENT REALLY POSTED IN THE FI AREA BECAUSE I HAVE BEEN KEEPING MY PROFILE LOW..BUT NOW I NEED SOME ADVICE! FROM PEOPLE WHO HAVE EXPERIENCE..... AND THAT KNOW THEIR STUFF!
AROUND MY AREA I DONT KNOW/SEEN/HANG OUT WITH ANYONE RUNING A SC TC.. MOSTLY HONDAS IN PALM BEACH
PLEASE DONT ASWER TO MY THREAD BY GO BOOST..... GET RID OF THE SC LOL.. I ALREADY HAVE IT ON THE CAR AND ITS STAYING THERE. AM NOT LOOKING TO GET PAST 300 HP ANYWAYS IL BE HAPPY WITH 290-300 AT MOST ON THE SUPERCHARGER, NOW WITHOUT FURTHER BULLCRAP LETS GET TO BUSINESS LOL.
RECENT MODS.
-VORTEC TRIM SUPERCHARGER
-NST 9.5 PSI PULLEY/ DAYCO BELT 5070890
-WEAPON R HEADERS/ MIGHT HEAT WRAP THEM NOT SURE?
-TANABE EXHAUST
-INJEN SHORT RAM INTAKE ON CHARGER
-RACELAND COILVERS
-OO7 FORGE BPV
-TRD REFLASH FROM FACTORY DEALER
WITH THOSE MODS I HAVE ON THE CAR NOW I HAVE NOT DYNO/ AND DONT KNOW HP/TORQUE WHICH I SHOULD DO AT LEAST ONE DYNO PULL AND SEE BEFORE AND AFTER RESULTS.... BUT AS THE CAR SITS NOW I HAVE RACED SEVERAL CARS
ALL RACES WERE DONE FROM A ROLL WITH 9.5 PULLEY/ MY CAR SPINS TOO MUCH FROM SCRATCH
G35 HAD AFTERMARKER INTAKE AND EXHAUST >> BEAT IT
CIVIC SI >>BEAT IT
RSX TYPE S HAD EXHAUST POSSIBLY INTAKE>> BEAT IT
350Z HAD EXHAUST>> BEAT IT
I DID RACED A STOCK EVO I GOT BEAT( I WAS EXPECTING THAT LOL)
I GOT BEAT BY MY FRIEND GTI( HAD AFTERMARKET INTERCOOLER/BOV/INTAKE MINOR BOLT ONS WHEN I WAS ON STOCK PULLEY, IM GOING FOR A REMATCH WITH THE 9.5 WILL SEE WHAT HAPPENS/ HE GOT ME BY 2 CARS WITH STOCK HOPEFULLY THING WILL BE DIFF ON 9.5
SO WITH THOSE RACES AM GUESSING IM PROB AT 230/240 HP WITH CURRENT MODS INSTALLED BUT I DO NEED A DYNO PULL....
SOON FUTURE MODS( HAVE PARTS ALREADY BUT NOT INSTALLED) -DESCENDANT RACING INTAKE MANIFOLD
-HOTCHKIS FRONT SWAY BAR NEW
-TRD STRUT BAR
-HOTCHKIS REAR CAMBER ARM
-AEM EUGO WIDEBAND
-AEM FIC...... STILL NOT SURE IF I SHOULD USE?????
MISHIMOTO RADIATOR/FANS/SILICONE HOSES/AND THERMOSTAT BROUGH EVERYTHING AS A PACKAGE DEAL.
SOON FUTURE PARTS I AM GONNA BUY
-FIDANZA FLYWHEEL AND A DECENT CLUTCH
-AEM BOOST GAUGE
-NOT A DAMMMM THING MORE.. LOL.... WELL AT LEAST NOT PERFORMANCE WISE.
SO BASICALLY MY QUESTION IS........ WOULD THIS SET UP GET MY CLOSE TO 290-300 HP??? I DONT WANNA RUN OVER 300 ON A STOCK MOTOR FOR SAFETY ISSUES....
THE DESCENDANT MANIFOLD SHOULD AT LEAST PUT A 30HP GAIN ON A SUPERCHARGER WHEN TUNED/? I DID RESEARCH AND SEEN NO ONE RUNNING A DESCENDANT MANIFOLD ON SUPERCHARGER? SO I HAVE NO CLUE HOW THIS IS GONNA TURN OUT???
ON TURBO IT HAS GAINED AN AMOUNT UP TO 50-70 HP BUT AM NOT TURBO SO IM EXPECTING AT LEAST A GOOD 25-30 AT LEAST
AND MY MAIN CONCERN????? WHICH SYSTEM SHOULD I TUNE WITH????
SHOULD I KEEP MY AEM FIC?? FOR TUNNING OR SHOULD I GO WITH UNICHIP???
MY CONCERN ABOUT UNICHIP IS THAT ONCE I INSTALL THE INTAKE MANIFOLD? THEIR BASEMAPS WONT BE COMPATIBLE WITH THAT AND I WILL REQUIRED TUNE ON A DYNO WITH UNICHIP.
AND ALSO I HAVE A REFLASHED TRD COMPUTER... IS IT RECOMMENDED TUNING A REFLASH ECU? WOULD THE ECU RESET ITSELF? DESCENDANT SAID THE TRD REFLASH WILL RUN LEAN WITH THE MANIFOLD.... SO I DONT WANT A TUNE AND THEN THE ECU REFLASH BACK AND BOOM MY ENGINE GONED!!! I WOULD KILL MYSELF LOL..
ANOTHER THING HAS ANYONE HEARD ANYTHING ABOUT REPLACING THE REFLASH ECU WITH A FACTORY UN-FLASHED STOCK ECU AND THEN RUN THE TUNE WITH AEM FIC?? FOR BETTER GAINS? AND SAFETY ABOUT ECU RESETTING ITSELF...
I AM NOT AN EXPERT..... I KNOW SOME STUFF BUT HELP IS ALWAYS REQUIRED SO IM READY TO GET EDUCATED BY PEOPLE WHO CAN DO SO.... THANK FOR TAKING YOUR TIME TO READ MY LONG....BORING....POST LOL...
I HAVENT REALLY POSTED IN THE FI AREA BECAUSE I HAVE BEEN KEEPING MY PROFILE LOW..BUT NOW I NEED SOME ADVICE! FROM PEOPLE WHO HAVE EXPERIENCE..... AND THAT KNOW THEIR STUFF!
AROUND MY AREA I DONT KNOW/SEEN/HANG OUT WITH ANYONE RUNING A SC TC.. MOSTLY HONDAS IN PALM BEACH
PLEASE DONT ASWER TO MY THREAD BY GO BOOST..... GET RID OF THE SC LOL.. I ALREADY HAVE IT ON THE CAR AND ITS STAYING THERE. AM NOT LOOKING TO GET PAST 300 HP ANYWAYS IL BE HAPPY WITH 290-300 AT MOST ON THE SUPERCHARGER, NOW WITHOUT FURTHER BULLCRAP LETS GET TO BUSINESS LOL.
RECENT MODS.
-VORTEC TRIM SUPERCHARGER
-NST 9.5 PSI PULLEY/ DAYCO BELT 5070890
-WEAPON R HEADERS/ MIGHT HEAT WRAP THEM NOT SURE?
-TANABE EXHAUST
-INJEN SHORT RAM INTAKE ON CHARGER
-RACELAND COILVERS
-OO7 FORGE BPV
-TRD REFLASH FROM FACTORY DEALER
WITH THOSE MODS I HAVE ON THE CAR NOW I HAVE NOT DYNO/ AND DONT KNOW HP/TORQUE WHICH I SHOULD DO AT LEAST ONE DYNO PULL AND SEE BEFORE AND AFTER RESULTS.... BUT AS THE CAR SITS NOW I HAVE RACED SEVERAL CARS
ALL RACES WERE DONE FROM A ROLL WITH 9.5 PULLEY/ MY CAR SPINS TOO MUCH FROM SCRATCH
G35 HAD AFTERMARKER INTAKE AND EXHAUST >> BEAT IT
CIVIC SI >>BEAT IT
RSX TYPE S HAD EXHAUST POSSIBLY INTAKE>> BEAT IT
350Z HAD EXHAUST>> BEAT IT
I DID RACED A STOCK EVO I GOT BEAT( I WAS EXPECTING THAT LOL)
I GOT BEAT BY MY FRIEND GTI( HAD AFTERMARKET INTERCOOLER/BOV/INTAKE MINOR BOLT ONS WHEN I WAS ON STOCK PULLEY, IM GOING FOR A REMATCH WITH THE 9.5 WILL SEE WHAT HAPPENS/ HE GOT ME BY 2 CARS WITH STOCK HOPEFULLY THING WILL BE DIFF ON 9.5
SO WITH THOSE RACES AM GUESSING IM PROB AT 230/240 HP WITH CURRENT MODS INSTALLED BUT I DO NEED A DYNO PULL....
SOON FUTURE MODS( HAVE PARTS ALREADY BUT NOT INSTALLED) -DESCENDANT RACING INTAKE MANIFOLD
-HOTCHKIS FRONT SWAY BAR NEW
-TRD STRUT BAR
-HOTCHKIS REAR CAMBER ARM
-AEM EUGO WIDEBAND
-AEM FIC...... STILL NOT SURE IF I SHOULD USE?????
MISHIMOTO RADIATOR/FANS/SILICONE HOSES/AND THERMOSTAT BROUGH EVERYTHING AS A PACKAGE DEAL.
SOON FUTURE PARTS I AM GONNA BUY
-FIDANZA FLYWHEEL AND A DECENT CLUTCH
-AEM BOOST GAUGE
-NOT A DAMMMM THING MORE.. LOL.... WELL AT LEAST NOT PERFORMANCE WISE.
SO BASICALLY MY QUESTION IS........ WOULD THIS SET UP GET MY CLOSE TO 290-300 HP??? I DONT WANNA RUN OVER 300 ON A STOCK MOTOR FOR SAFETY ISSUES....
THE DESCENDANT MANIFOLD SHOULD AT LEAST PUT A 30HP GAIN ON A SUPERCHARGER WHEN TUNED/? I DID RESEARCH AND SEEN NO ONE RUNNING A DESCENDANT MANIFOLD ON SUPERCHARGER? SO I HAVE NO CLUE HOW THIS IS GONNA TURN OUT???
ON TURBO IT HAS GAINED AN AMOUNT UP TO 50-70 HP BUT AM NOT TURBO SO IM EXPECTING AT LEAST A GOOD 25-30 AT LEAST
AND MY MAIN CONCERN????? WHICH SYSTEM SHOULD I TUNE WITH????
SHOULD I KEEP MY AEM FIC?? FOR TUNNING OR SHOULD I GO WITH UNICHIP???
MY CONCERN ABOUT UNICHIP IS THAT ONCE I INSTALL THE INTAKE MANIFOLD? THEIR BASEMAPS WONT BE COMPATIBLE WITH THAT AND I WILL REQUIRED TUNE ON A DYNO WITH UNICHIP.
AND ALSO I HAVE A REFLASHED TRD COMPUTER... IS IT RECOMMENDED TUNING A REFLASH ECU? WOULD THE ECU RESET ITSELF? DESCENDANT SAID THE TRD REFLASH WILL RUN LEAN WITH THE MANIFOLD.... SO I DONT WANT A TUNE AND THEN THE ECU REFLASH BACK AND BOOM MY ENGINE GONED!!! I WOULD KILL MYSELF LOL..
ANOTHER THING HAS ANYONE HEARD ANYTHING ABOUT REPLACING THE REFLASH ECU WITH A FACTORY UN-FLASHED STOCK ECU AND THEN RUN THE TUNE WITH AEM FIC?? FOR BETTER GAINS? AND SAFETY ABOUT ECU RESETTING ITSELF...
I AM NOT AN EXPERT..... I KNOW SOME STUFF BUT HELP IS ALWAYS REQUIRED SO IM READY TO GET EDUCATED BY PEOPLE WHO CAN DO SO.... THANK FOR TAKING YOUR TIME TO READ MY LONG....BORING....POST LOL...
#3
im not supercharged but im turboed but im guessing anything over 9.5 psi on a SC you will need and intercooler and maby methonal injection not sure so some one tap in and share. i think the 300 mark has been met on a SC ones but i cant remeber who i think theres a you tube vid of it.
#4
heres the 311 on a sc
and heres icenines thread on it
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/scion-tc-1g-forced-induction-1645/my-modest-311whp-supercharger-install-chart-vid-page-8-a-73308/
and heres icenines thread on it
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/scion-tc-1g-forced-induction-1645/my-modest-311whp-supercharger-install-chart-vid-page-8-a-73308/
#5
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 154
From: Lake Worth, FL
I see that video and read his profile on cardomain his not running the descendant manifold which is where I will be getting an additional 30 hp from a simple bolt on which is good for me advantage to get me closer to my goal without crazy internal work . As far as intercooler is not positive effective on the charger as the turbo , the meth is always helpful ...but not required ... For better cooling and bringing heat down a bit I'm upgrading my radiator , my fans , my thermostat and my hoses with mishimoto products . That will deff bring heat down a bit . Am also planning on heat wrapping my weapon r headers and downpipe to keep heat off the supercharger and block . I might even consider getting a vented hood also but am not a big fan of vented hoods. Oh and am deff not going over 9.5 psi pulley lol that's the max I will run on the SC , I know I have vortec bearings on my SC but just to be safe
#6
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 154
From: Lake Worth, FL
My main worries lies in the tunning , which is were I will be gaining major whp from manifold , but in order to installed manifold tuning is required ??? I just don't know which system to use? I have FIC but my comp is Trd reflashed . I don't know if problems will emerge because of that ??
#7
. As far as intercooler is not positive effective on the charger as the turbo , the meth is always helpful ...but not required ... For better cooling and bringing heat down a bit I'm upgrading my radiator , my fans , my thermostat and my hoses with mishimoto products .
#8
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 154
From: Lake Worth, FL
The intercooler/injection have nothing to do with cooling the engine. They cool the intake charge which prevents pre-detonation, which can't be prevented with radiators/fans. The only thing you have listed which will give you any power is the FIC and intake manifold. I followed the manifold thread when it was active, and it doesn't look worth it for the price. It would be best for you to get a OEM ecu and tune the FIC with that, and go from there.
#9
u can run 12 psi with meth that should help u gain another 15-20whp from it and if you had the world racing intake mani... u should net another 15-25whp with all that u should be around like 285 +/- whp with 255 tq +/- the place i used to go didnt have a problem with the tune.. with the trd reflash
Last edited by garynkim; 04-04-2012 at 09:25 PM. Reason: did not finish write up..
#10
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 154
From: Lake Worth, FL
u can run 12 psi with meth that should help u gain another 15-20whp from it and if you had the world racing intake mani... u should net another 15-25whp with all that u should be around like 285 +/- whp with 255 tq +/- the place i used to go didnt have a problem with the tune.. with the trd reflash
unless i go aem ems.... which is more expensive. lol.
#11
hello... i think 12 psi on a stock engine is way too much at least on the supercharger. and specially for a car driven everyday lol... im just gonna stick to the 9.5 psi pulley . and i have the descendant racing manifold already. yeah thats kinda what i figured... once the car is tuned with manifold i should be arund 290 hopefully might be able to squeeze in a little more lol but yeah i think ima go with the stock ecu and then tune with the aem. i have been reading everyone agrees to that.?
unless i go aem ems.... which is more expensive. lol.
unless i go aem ems.... which is more expensive. lol.
#13
#14
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 154
From: Lake Worth, FL
#15
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 154
From: Lake Worth, FL
i read superchargers set up at 9.5 hitting the 240hp-250hp with basically bolt ons like i have minus the intake manifold. no one here has added the intake manifold to their supercharger set up mostly because the intake manifold cost like $700 bucks lol, but i paid half the price for mines so it was worth it.
so am just calculating at least 240hp with 9.5psi pulley,weapon r headers, injen intake, 007 forge bpv, and tanabe exhaust which is what most people here with similar set up are pushing non tuned on trd reflash.
now with aem fic tuned + intake manifold+fidanza flywheel i should at least be at 280hp minimum. and depending on the tune i might squeeze maybe 290 will see am not sure. im just gonna have to wait and see how it comes out but 280 should at least be expected which is a decent number with bolt ons and no internal work on the charger with 9.5
and if for whatever miracle changes my mind and do 12psi with mater/meth i should deff see pass 300 also easily
#16
<--- Supercharger owner, running the 55mm/12PSI NST pulley...
I've been running supercharged for over 40k miles.
First things first, you can run up to the maximum (15PSI) on the supercharger and still see gains, without a intercooler or water/meth injection.... yes you will be approaching heatsoak the higher you go thus reducing the amount of gain per boost level up to 15psi.
Second, the TRD reflash will keep your fuel trims descent enough to go all the way to 15PSI without issue. However to keep things balanced across the RPM scale; get aftermarket engine/fuel management. The reflash goes pig rich past 5700rpm.
Based off of what you already have... (9.5psi on s/c and some bolt ons) I'm going to guess between 215-230whp.
Based off of what you want to do (intake mani and some fuel management) I'm going to guess 250-260whp.
REMINDER - the thing with a dyno is they all vary a little from dyno to dyno. The best practice is to measure differences after modifications on the same dyno. I keep going back to the same shop in order to see what kinds of changes I'm making.
If you are reaching for 300whp, I would like to point out that this is a Toyota economy engine, that is mass produced with the safest and cheapest materials and processes. If you want to push over 250whp for an extended period of time.. INTERNALS!!!!! Valves, springs, crank shaft, pistons....etc. There are a few SL members who will testify to the damage that bolt on power will do to our stock engine.
To get to 300WHP try a combo of following:
1) Air to Water intercooling.... you won't lose boost vs Air to Air IC.
http://www.frozenboost.com/
or
2) Meth/Water injection... same principle, just requires a refill.
3) Do your own engine work, the guys at DEZOD did some port and polish on a stock head and improved over all air flow by 18%. Add that to a FI platform and its a good amount of power w/o it coming from a bolt on.
http://www.dezod.com/pd-force-fed.cfm
4) Engine management - AEM or Unichip... your call it just needs to be done to make the most of what you already have. Along with larger injectors and a strong fuel pump; to keep from overstressing (80%+ flow) your fuel system, get something bigger then the 440cc S/C injectors. Also make sure as you run more power you are upgrading your spark plugs, run colder plugs.
5) CAMS - its a lot to do and its a good bit of tuning but those who have reached the 300+ mark (on a s/c) have used cams.
http://www.rippmods.com/category_s/255.htm (at least they used to have them, Dezond makes cams that are applicable to the S/C, but sold for the Turbo)
NOTICE.... if you are going to keep the S/C and keep pushing its power production... take care of it. A few modifications will drastically increase its life.
1) Turbo timer... don't burn up your seals, they (stock) are already ____ty enough
2) Grease fitting for the pulley side bearing, like any bearing it needs some TLC.
3) Rebuild your S/C, there are replacement seals for the S/C, bears too. Gompka can even put you on the list for his next group buy of replacement drive shafts which will increase stability since the stock shaft is a TRDPOS.
In summation, going S/C is not as easy of a way to gain power as the Turbo. I'm not here to debate T vs S/C... to each his own. Running a S/C on a smaller engine requires more tricks and changes to get power, where as this principle reverses the larger you get when a S/C is the easier way to gain massive power out of a huge engine.
I've been running supercharged for over 40k miles.
---Clarifying the S/C Misnomers---
First things first, you can run up to the maximum (15PSI) on the supercharger and still see gains, without a intercooler or water/meth injection.... yes you will be approaching heatsoak the higher you go thus reducing the amount of gain per boost level up to 15psi.
Second, the TRD reflash will keep your fuel trims descent enough to go all the way to 15PSI without issue. However to keep things balanced across the RPM scale; get aftermarket engine/fuel management. The reflash goes pig rich past 5700rpm.
---Your Build---
Based off of what you already have... (9.5psi on s/c and some bolt ons) I'm going to guess between 215-230whp.
Based off of what you want to do (intake mani and some fuel management) I'm going to guess 250-260whp.
REMINDER - the thing with a dyno is they all vary a little from dyno to dyno. The best practice is to measure differences after modifications on the same dyno. I keep going back to the same shop in order to see what kinds of changes I'm making.
If you are reaching for 300whp, I would like to point out that this is a Toyota economy engine, that is mass produced with the safest and cheapest materials and processes. If you want to push over 250whp for an extended period of time.. INTERNALS!!!!! Valves, springs, crank shaft, pistons....etc. There are a few SL members who will testify to the damage that bolt on power will do to our stock engine.
To get to 300WHP try a combo of following:
1) Air to Water intercooling.... you won't lose boost vs Air to Air IC.
http://www.frozenboost.com/
or
2) Meth/Water injection... same principle, just requires a refill.
3) Do your own engine work, the guys at DEZOD did some port and polish on a stock head and improved over all air flow by 18%. Add that to a FI platform and its a good amount of power w/o it coming from a bolt on.
http://www.dezod.com/pd-force-fed.cfm
4) Engine management - AEM or Unichip... your call it just needs to be done to make the most of what you already have. Along with larger injectors and a strong fuel pump; to keep from overstressing (80%+ flow) your fuel system, get something bigger then the 440cc S/C injectors. Also make sure as you run more power you are upgrading your spark plugs, run colder plugs.
5) CAMS - its a lot to do and its a good bit of tuning but those who have reached the 300+ mark (on a s/c) have used cams.
http://www.rippmods.com/category_s/255.htm (at least they used to have them, Dezond makes cams that are applicable to the S/C, but sold for the Turbo)
NOTICE.... if you are going to keep the S/C and keep pushing its power production... take care of it. A few modifications will drastically increase its life.
1) Turbo timer... don't burn up your seals, they (stock) are already ____ty enough
2) Grease fitting for the pulley side bearing, like any bearing it needs some TLC.
3) Rebuild your S/C, there are replacement seals for the S/C, bears too. Gompka can even put you on the list for his next group buy of replacement drive shafts which will increase stability since the stock shaft is a TRDPOS.
In summation, going S/C is not as easy of a way to gain power as the Turbo. I'm not here to debate T vs S/C... to each his own. Running a S/C on a smaller engine requires more tricks and changes to get power, where as this principle reverses the larger you get when a S/C is the easier way to gain massive power out of a huge engine.
#17
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 154
From: Lake Worth, FL
<--- Supercharger owner, running the 55mm/12PSI NST pulley...
I've been running supercharged for over 40k miles.
First things first, you can run up to the maximum (15PSI) on the supercharger and still see gains, without a intercooler or water/meth injection.... yes you will be approaching heatsoak the higher you go thus reducing the amount of gain per boost level up to 15psi.
Second, the TRD reflash will keep your fuel trims descent enough to go all the way to 15PSI without issue. However to keep things balanced across the RPM scale; get aftermarket engine/fuel management. The reflash goes pig rich past 5700rpm.
Based off of what you already have... (9.5psi on s/c and some bolt ons) I'm going to guess between 215-230whp.
Based off of what you want to do (intake mani and some fuel management) I'm going to guess 250-260whp.
REMINDER - the thing with a dyno is they all vary a little from dyno to dyno. The best practice is to measure differences after modifications on the same dyno. I keep going back to the same shop in order to see what kinds of changes I'm making.
If you are reaching for 300whp, I would like to point out that this is a Toyota economy engine, that is mass produced with the safest and cheapest materials and processes. If you want to push over 250whp for an extended period of time.. INTERNALS!!!!! Valves, springs, crank shaft, pistons....etc. There are a few SL members who will testify to the damage that bolt on power will do to our stock engine.
To get to 300WHP try a combo of following:
1) Air to Water intercooling.... you won't lose boost vs Air to Air IC.
http://www.frozenboost.com/
or
2) Meth/Water injection... same principle, just requires a refill.
3) Do your own engine work, the guys at DEZOD did some port and polish on a stock head and improved over all air flow by 18%. Add that to a FI platform and its a good amount of power w/o it coming from a bolt on.
http://www.dezod.com/pd-force-fed.cfm
4) Engine management - AEM or Unichip... your call it just needs to be done to make the most of what you already have. Along with larger injectors and a strong fuel pump; to keep from overstressing (80%+ flow) your fuel system, get something bigger then the 440cc S/C injectors. Also make sure as you run more power you are upgrading your spark plugs, run colder plugs.
5) CAMS - its a lot to do and its a good bit of tuning but those who have reached the 300+ mark (on a s/c) have used cams.
http://www.rippmods.com/category_s/255.htm (at least they used to have them, Dezond makes cams that are applicable to the S/C, but sold for the Turbo)
NOTICE.... if you are going to keep the S/C and keep pushing its power production... take care of it. A few modifications will drastically increase its life.
1) Turbo timer... don't burn up your seals, they (stock) are already ____ty enough
2) Grease fitting for the pulley side bearing, like any bearing it needs some TLC.
3) Rebuild your S/C, there are replacement seals for the S/C, bears too. Gompka can even put you on the list for his next group buy of replacement drive shafts which will increase stability since the stock shaft is a TRDPOS.
In summation, going S/C is not as easy of a way to gain power as the Turbo. I'm not here to debate T vs S/C... to each his own. Running a S/C on a smaller engine requires more tricks and changes to get power, where as this principle reverses the larger you get when a S/C is the easier way to gain massive power out of a huge engine.
I've been running supercharged for over 40k miles.
---Clarifying the S/C Misnomers---
First things first, you can run up to the maximum (15PSI) on the supercharger and still see gains, without a intercooler or water/meth injection.... yes you will be approaching heatsoak the higher you go thus reducing the amount of gain per boost level up to 15psi.
Second, the TRD reflash will keep your fuel trims descent enough to go all the way to 15PSI without issue. However to keep things balanced across the RPM scale; get aftermarket engine/fuel management. The reflash goes pig rich past 5700rpm.
---Your Build---
Based off of what you already have... (9.5psi on s/c and some bolt ons) I'm going to guess between 215-230whp.
Based off of what you want to do (intake mani and some fuel management) I'm going to guess 250-260whp.
REMINDER - the thing with a dyno is they all vary a little from dyno to dyno. The best practice is to measure differences after modifications on the same dyno. I keep going back to the same shop in order to see what kinds of changes I'm making.
If you are reaching for 300whp, I would like to point out that this is a Toyota economy engine, that is mass produced with the safest and cheapest materials and processes. If you want to push over 250whp for an extended period of time.. INTERNALS!!!!! Valves, springs, crank shaft, pistons....etc. There are a few SL members who will testify to the damage that bolt on power will do to our stock engine.
To get to 300WHP try a combo of following:
1) Air to Water intercooling.... you won't lose boost vs Air to Air IC.
http://www.frozenboost.com/
or
2) Meth/Water injection... same principle, just requires a refill.
3) Do your own engine work, the guys at DEZOD did some port and polish on a stock head and improved over all air flow by 18%. Add that to a FI platform and its a good amount of power w/o it coming from a bolt on.
http://www.dezod.com/pd-force-fed.cfm
4) Engine management - AEM or Unichip... your call it just needs to be done to make the most of what you already have. Along with larger injectors and a strong fuel pump; to keep from overstressing (80%+ flow) your fuel system, get something bigger then the 440cc S/C injectors. Also make sure as you run more power you are upgrading your spark plugs, run colder plugs.
5) CAMS - its a lot to do and its a good bit of tuning but those who have reached the 300+ mark (on a s/c) have used cams.
http://www.rippmods.com/category_s/255.htm (at least they used to have them, Dezond makes cams that are applicable to the S/C, but sold for the Turbo)
NOTICE.... if you are going to keep the S/C and keep pushing its power production... take care of it. A few modifications will drastically increase its life.
1) Turbo timer... don't burn up your seals, they (stock) are already ____ty enough
2) Grease fitting for the pulley side bearing, like any bearing it needs some TLC.
3) Rebuild your S/C, there are replacement seals for the S/C, bears too. Gompka can even put you on the list for his next group buy of replacement drive shafts which will increase stability since the stock shaft is a TRDPOS.
In summation, going S/C is not as easy of a way to gain power as the Turbo. I'm not here to debate T vs S/C... to each his own. Running a S/C on a smaller engine requires more tricks and changes to get power, where as this principle reverses the larger you get when a S/C is the easier way to gain massive power out of a huge engine.
however.... i never heard anyone recommending running 12psi or more on a stock engine thats just suicide.....engine wont last more than 5 months if you push it.
second ..(9.5psi on s/c and some bolt ons) I'm going to guess between 215-230whp.
thats its just a little too low..... the stock 7.5 and headers intake and exhaust is capable of producing that... so the 9.5 has to be in the 240 with those bolt ons.... which is what most members here claims.. and i seen on youtube a guy with 9.5 bolt on and dyno pull 243hp without any tunning.
third---If you want to push over 250whp for an extended period of time.. INTERNALS!!!!! Valves, springs, crank shaft, pistons....etc.
yes thats always optional and a great help. however the stock engine is more than enough capable of running 350hp well tuned on boost... which is what a lot of members here be putting down on boost with a good bolt on turbo kit and a decent tuned no internals done..
the supercharger with the right tools and a good tuned should be able to push 280-300 for a large period of time if the driver dont overkill the engine everyday.....
but yet again all the cars are different and all engines respond diff so i guess is a matter of luck.! i have had my supercharger for 75,000 miles running stock sc pulley on trd reflash. and had no issues i just recently updated to the 9.5 and the supercharger rattles actually a little less than the stock pulley, weird since everyone seems to say once you change to the 9.5 the rattle goes up.????
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TRDSCIONTC06
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12-31-2014 10:12 PM